Travelling India With My 87-year-old Great-Uncle
Last Updated: February 21, 2026
MY GREATEST CHALLENGE - TRAVELLING INDIA WITH MY 87-YEAR-OLD GREAT-UNCLE
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Why I Ended Up Travelling India
"You travel, and I want to visit India before I kick the bucket."
These were the words of my 87-year-old Great-Uncle Michael.
At which point, I laughed out loud. Firstly, I hadn't heard the phrase 'kick the bucket' for a while. Secondly, I never thought it would ever happen. I mean the two of us, travelling India, barmy.
Great-Uncle Michael - ɡreɪt ˈʌŋ.kəl MÌchλel noun, [C]: a well-off, elderly male who very much lives in the upper echelons of the middle-class society, with outspoken, outdated views.
Cut to me packing for our tour of India.
What could go wrong?
Travelling India Day 1 - Acclimatisation
I was reminded almost instantaneously, upon landing in Delhi, sightly drunk, that I was back in Asia.
The smells filled my intriguing nostrils. The sounds crashed into my eardrums. A smile hit me around the face, and laughter flowed. Those of you that have been to Asia will know exactly what I mean.
I finally had my fix, I was back in Asia baby.
Within minutes, I was surrounded by the madness I had craved. It brought back memories of my times in Sri Lanka and Bali. Let's, be honest, they are always going to be great memories.
The journey from the airport to the centre of Delhi was one of mayhem and madness. However, there was one thing I couldn't take my eyes off. It had me in stitches. That was watching my great uncle squeamishly hide behind his seat, as every other vehicle be it bus, tuk-tuk, bike or car come within millimetres of our vehicle
He shook like a shitting dog with every crash of the horn. In all fairness, he hadn't been to Asia since 1967. It was apparent, things had changed. It is worth taking an elderly relative just for that experience alone. Trust me.
If you would describe yourself as, of a nervous imposition, then be prepared, it is just like in the movies.
You will be the shitting dog. Film it and send it in, we love a good laugh.
Were we ready for India? You bet
The hotel wasn't quite ready for us, 'and I was beginning to wonder if we were ready for India. We diverted and headed straight to one of the largest mosques in India, Jama Masjid.
With a claim like that, I was expecting something vastly more superior than what was thrust in front of me.
Yes, it was clean, tidy and impressive, and yes it was rather large with a fascinating history. None the less, it was never going to make it into my top ten buildings of all time. Drop us a comment, and let us know your thoughts.
It wasn't all bad. In reality, when compared to other great mosques and architectural gems in India, it wasn't what I was hoping for.
For more info on the mosque check out our blog India's Golden Triangle
The Father of the Nation
Next, we headed to a memorial dedicated to a man who needs no introduction, or title. Yet, at the same time, has one - The father of the nation - Mahatma Gandhi.
If you don't know who Mahatma Gandhi is, where have you been. Click here to discover more. He is one of, the most important people in Indian history, if not, the most important. He's had a fairly well document life, not all is as inspiring, as you may think you know.
Raj Ghat is located to the northeast of New Delhi. Tucked close to the Yamuna River as it meanders around the lush green parks of the city. The park itself is a place of beauty, peace and tranquillity, all of which flows into the memorial, grounds.
The memorial is on the spot where Gandhi had previously been cremated. It is a bed of bright and bold flowers exquisitely laid on a black marble plinth. A single eternal flame stands over this colourful dedication.
In essence, it was a spot of magic. We couldn't help, but get caught up in it. A fitting tribute, and one that I will never forget.
Michaelism
Our first nights stay in India was at the Taj Palace Delhi, which was a shimmering relaxing beacon of cleanliness, class and beauty. Once inside the entrance was striking in every way.
It was, now, that the first moment of comedy entered the tour. Which, we call, 'Michaelism'.
We entered the heavily guarded hotel, greeted with a traditional Indian welcome. A bright and colourful garland was hung around our neck, followed-up by a Bindi dot gently pressed on our foreheads. To most people, not a problem.
However, most people aren't Michael.
What happened was. As the smiling welcome party attempted to place Michael's Bindi dot on his forehead. Michael assumed it was food. Thus tried to bite the hand of the poor unsuspecting lady who was only trying to greet him. Best explained with the below video.
I tried to hold it in for the camera but had to stop filming as was pissing myself with laughter.
Well done sir, well done.
A Well deserved rest and near eye-popping horror show
After a long flight, and fully-packed day around New Delhi we were more than pleasantly surprised with the levels of comfort, style and size. The rooms were also as dreamy and warming as the grand entrance
I relive that moment of flopping onto my bed almost daily. It was as if we were being embraced, by a friendly, fluffy, cloud.
I am sure you have had that moment at some point in the past. That said, things soon changed. I looked left towards the bathroom, where, my great uncle was trying to use the toilet.
Oh, yes. Only a 'very' transparent glass sheet separated the bathroom and my weary, terrified face. I must have looked like Simba watching his dad in the stamped.
I screamed out, and luckily found a curtain that saved me from a having to scratch my eyeballs out. Ohh no, don't mention balls.
This time, I was saved...
I explored the enchanting hotel, whilst Michael relaxed in the room after a long couple of days. The hotel had everything, including an outdoor pool, more restaurants and bars than you could shake a shitty stick at. In all honesty, it was the most exquisite hotel I'd ever stayed.
That said, I am more accustomed to sharing a hostel dorm. Normally, with twelve farting backpackers, seven loud snorers and a very drunken 'slightly erotic' couple on the bunk below.
The all-important first night's meal
After a short nap, Michael was back with me. We had been craving a curry ever since we set foot on Indian soil. Luckily we found a delightful Indian restaurant called Masala within the hotel grounds. Even, more importantly, it served numerous curries.
Having sunk a couple of beers and ate the most mouthwatering, flavoursome curry to ever pass my lips. Oh my, it was gorgeous. It put to shame anything we called an Indian meal back home in the UK.
This was special.
Obviously, I got a little too excited about the food as I slowly drifted into a food coma. Worth it. Once the beers dried had up, we headed to back to the room for our first night's sleep in India.
What a special day.
Travelling India Day 2 - The Money Man
Having woken up rather spritely, we gorged ourselves on the hotel's epic breakfast. If like me, you are a big foodie you're in for a treat. Top Hint: Try the Himalayan honey. My god, it was better than sex.
Once again, having eaten our body weight for breakfast, we boarded the bus, bound for the mad streets of Delhi. Our first stop of the day was in the south of this crazy city, Qutub Minar.
Qutub Minar
Like the memorial yesterday, the grounds are calming, and shower you in peace and tranquillity. The Qutub Minar site is one of architectural genius with numerous impressive ruins throughout. The central masterpiece is an imposing 12th-century tower that sailed 73 meters into the sky.
Furthermore, the skill and finesse of the craftsmanship are unreal. The attention to detail was phenomenal. As a result, I fell in love with Qutub Minar.
Sadly we had to leave the magic of Qutub Minar, luckily, our next stop was just as jaw-dropping.
Our destination was the very building that paved the way for somewhere you may have heard about, The Taj Mahal. That building is the one and only Humayun's Tomb.
Very Mughal
The impressive Mughal-designed green quarter-gardens surround the tomb. The only sounds that rupture the charming silence were that of the soring birds above. Most of the fountains produced a trickle of water which cooled the surrounding air. Magical
I can not find the words to explain how impressive this building is. The architectures, the builders and everyone involved in this build deserve all the spoils offered to them.
Like all buildings of this era and style symmetry is vitally important. Considering back in 1572 there was no modern tech or digital assistance they have managed to complete the grand tomb, each side symmetrical to within 2mm. It's not majestic. It exceeds that, it's the impossible, made possible.
So far, this was making for one perfect day. I couldn't tell you which was more impressive. The stunning red sandstone tomb, or the red sandstone tower and surrounding ruins. Delhi, I salute you, I wasn't expecting such impressive, large peaceful attractions.
As always, click the link for more info on these buildings - here
And now for something completely different
Without delay, we turned our time to something slightly different. Whilst not my cup of tea, it turned out to be Michael's - who knew.
We arrived at a Cottage Industry, fair play if you know what they are, I had no clue whatsoever. For all, I knew it could have been a bloody estate agent. Which, quickly became apparent, it was not.
Loosely, it was a fecking shop, with a twist.
We were greeted by a fella, who I can only describe as, a well-pruned gentleman from Kashmir who had a soothing voice, just like a Bond villain. At that point, I knew I was in for something a little random.
The tour got off to a blinding start. We were given a presentation, on how Kashmir rugs, carpets, and as he described, artworks, are produced. It was very captivating.
Then a very delicious cup of Himilayan tea and tasty nibbles were offered to us. I couldn't help but think, maybe I was wrong? Even more so, maybe Michael was right? Would I have to swallow my words, was it a good idea?
It was then, like all good Bond villains he hit us with the sale pitch. I was at my weakest, and as he unrolled one 'runner' rug towards our direction.
I dived over to avert Michael's eyes as if to save him from a ticking bomb, but it was too late. He had bought it before the end of the rug slammed on the ground next to our feet. £1,500 down and it was only day two.
Bollocks.
With that, it was time to leave Delhi. Two reasons; one, we had to get to Agra, and two: to save Michael spending and to protect the drinking money.
A smelly night in Agra
We hit the road, and after a few hours arrived in Agra. More specifically, the Taj Hotel and Convention Centre, Agra, which was, well, shite.
**DO NOT STAY THERE**
An offensive damp smell filled the halls and rooms alike, almost like a terrible swimming pool. Together with the rotten smell of drains at the otherwise, wonderful rooftop poolside bar, it was hell.
I would rather have been at a fish market. The views over the city of Agra were beautiful, but you couldn't enjoy them thanks to the stench.
Sadly, the food didn't improve matters. As for the staff, I think a dead donkeys arse hole had more of an understanding of what was happening. I would suggest trying another hotel during your stay in Agra.
Luckily after dinner, we slept through until the morning.
Travelling India Day 3 - Breathtaking Beyond Belief
Today was another early start, but, one neither of us minded. We woke with expectation and excitement. For today, we were going to tick off a bucket-list item, one neither of us, ever, thought we'd see. Not to mention, it was also a wonder of the world.
Buzzing.
We threw breakfast down our throats and hopped aboard the fun bus. Due to an Indian law regarding pollution around 'some' historical or religiously important sites, we had to jump on a little electrical jeep, for the remaining 500 meters, or so.
Yes, I could have walked, as could Michael. However, this was way more fun, and practical as it took us directly to the main entrance.
Tickets collected, it was time to enter this travellers paradise.
A Wonder of my world
As we entered the grounds, we got a sneaky view, of the wonder that hid within. Nonetheless, it wasn't until we started passing under the south gate that the Taj slowly revealed its full magnificent beauty.
It was breathtaking. There I was gasping with amazement, as all the emotions hit me. I had finally seen the Taj Mahal, and it was, certainly more than I could have ever imagined.
Glancing over at Michael. I could see he was frozen to the spot.
He had that smile only those closest to him will know. It was a smile, that spoke a million words.
I knew how much this meant to him, it was his dream. Now there would be nothing that could take this backpacking adventure together away from us.
The one thing that struck me as per the visits to Raj Ghat, Qutub Minar and Humayun's Tomb was how peaceful the grounds were. I knew they would be well looked after, but it was almost like we were the only people there.
There was no queuing for photos or people swarming your every footstep. It was magical.
Walking past the fountains, taking in the gardens was surreal. It was like living a dream, but knowing there was more to come. We then hopped up the steps, which, in turn, lead into the main mausoleum. It was there that we excitedly put little, CSI like, shoe covers on our feet. Which are provided when you enter.
Nothing like a little trip
I think Michael was either, too excited, or had found the wine at breakfast. He nearly went ass over tit trying to put the covers on his feet.
It did provide me with entertainment though.
Up close The Taj Mahal was even more impressive, again. In the Mughal way, the symmetry of the building was no more than a couple of millimetres out. Impressive isn't it.
I didn't take a tape measure for proof, and just accepted that fact as given, but either way, it looked it, so kudos to the builders.
The marble work was astonishing and the attention to detail unimaginable today. Whilst inside was darker, I could still see that it was engraved to perfection. It truly deserves its status as a wonder of the world.
Time to meet the golden couple of the Mughal Empire
Inside are the cenotaphs of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan. Unlike the cenotaphs in Humayun's Tomb, these are sectioned off with a mesh screen. It was a shame we couldn't get to see the cenotaph's properly, but it was still a magnificent moment.
Word of warning. It is actually, very dark in there, Michael nearly went over a couple more times. Tomorrow, I am finding that breakfast booze cart.
Once we had explored inside we took in what lay in wait to the rear of the Taj Mahal.
It was a surreal moment gazing on the majestic, yet dirty Yamuna River whilst the grand Taj Mahal stood behind.
Both animals and humans were splashing around enjoying their morning swim. It was almost inviting. Almost.
I never wanted to leave this place, but sadly after a quick salute to Diana's chair, the exit called. By this point, I was walking backwards as to get one last look at this gem.
Nevertheless, that wasn't going to be my final farewell to the Taj. That lay in wait later this evening.
As always, for more information on the Taj Mahal check out - Inda's Golden Triangle
Did someone say golf cart?
Leaving the Taj Mahal, we were in for another thrilling ride up the road in the electric golf carts. Only this time we didn't rock-up at a wonder of the world, no, we rocked-up at another Cottage industry store.
Again, we were sucked in, thanks to our desire to learn.
We learnt how the marble was excavated, transported to the site, and how the Taj Mahal was built.
Dam you learning!
After the video, we watched a group of local craftsmen cutting new gemstones to size and running general repairs. They were using techniques that had been passed down over the generations. I found it very interesting.
We were then shown into another room and offered a cup of tea. Hang on, this sounds familiar. It was now that the salesman turned up his game. He showed us how strong his marble tables were by trying to scratch them with coins. He even threw them around the room like a possessed devil.
The money man
It almost got a bit too much for me, as I let out a little laugh. I had to look away. There was no way I was buying anything expensive or made of marble. Not even if I had wanted to, it would never survive the trip.
Guess what, I didn't buy anything. Shock.
However, Michael did.
He found an elephant thing, which I can only describe as a vase with holes in. Boom, there goes our carefree luggage. Not to mention, another £500 of drinking money. I had to stop him spending. He had turned into a spending demon.
I managed to get Michael out of the shop without spending any more money and on to something a little more enjoyable. Lunch.
We both had a fabulous butter chicken, naan and all the trimmings, and of course, washed down with a couple of large beers.
First of the forts
Once we had finished lunch, we meandered down to the impressive Agra Fort. Once again, located on the southern banks of the Yamuna River. This impressive and imposing Mughal designed, red sandstone fort stands alone as a marvel in its own right.
It doesn't need the Taj Mahal for backup, yet that's what it had. From the impressive viewing platform over the Yamuna River, you have unspoiled views of the Taj Mahal.
We learnt the history of the fort, the people that lived, worked and even imprisoned within its large red walls. Honestly, it was fascinating. If you are a keen bean for history the fort could keep you captivated for hours.
That said, if I replaced the word history, with any of the following design, architecture, gardening and even serenity, it's the same outcome.
I hope you can see from our selected photos, the efforts that had gone into the design of the buildings. It was mightly impressive with numerous carvings and inscriptions covering every last inch of the fort. Not to mention the continued calmness that wafted through the warming breeze.
Stories of old
The stories fascinated us as much as the building itself.
The stories included love, lust and family arguments, that in my opinion, got out of hand. One such story involves the Mughal Emperor, Shah Jahan. The very man who commissioned the Taj Mahal, as a dedication of love to his favourite wife.
For eight years, until his death in 1666, Shah was imprisoned at the fort by his son. His son, by that point, had already killed and wounded other brothers to gain the power to the empire.
Madness!
Imagine the pain he must have felt being able to look out over his building, it must have been torture.
I was falling in love with the Mughal buildings we had visited. They gave me a sense of freedom and zen. A feeling only comparable to escaping work on a Friday afternoon or climbing into bed after a long day. It was like the weight of the world had left me, and there was nothing to worry about.
Of course, that's a very strange way to describe buildings, but that's the best way I can describe them.
I didn't think this day could get any better, but it did.
Meet mini me
The aptly named Baby Taj, was next up.
This miniature version of the Taj Mahal was, in some ways, even more, impressive than the main event. Gold and gemstones fill every last corner of the building.
The exquisite designs dazzled us with its beauty, both inside and out. While the Mughal designed gardens had become almost expected. The grounds radiate a sense of pure joy, and in this case, were perfectly kept.
Like its bigger brother, the baby Taj has a wonderful viewing platform, looking up and down the weaving river.
It is fair to say that this 'mini' Taj was somewhere of pure elegance and joy.
After a lot of time on our feet, and numerous epic buildings explored, Michael started to tire. I'm 33, and the distance we had covered had nearly killed me. I couldn't imagine what it must have been like at the age of 87. It's fair to say I was very impressed.
We did, however, have one more stop to make before he could get back to to the hotel for his g&t.
Schools out
Our final stop of the day was to a place called Mehtab Bagh. Whilst the name may be unfamiliar, you would recognise it, I'm sure. If you do know the name, you Far Outclass me. See what I did there.
Any guesses, and no cheating, smart ass.
The Mehtab Bagh is/was the northern half of the Taj Mahals Gardens. Over the last few centuries, they have become separated from the main site due to the changing course of the Yamuna River.
Our arrival was met with a swarm of kids. All trying to sell us shit, total shit, and Michael, now in his element, was back. He loved spending money, which was something new for him. India seemed to have brought out the carefree, spender he had hidden away for the past 87 years.
He bought more rubbish from every kid that ran in our direction. If I had thought on my feet. I would have run around the bus and held my hand out for a donation.
Before we knew it he had bangles, a wooden elephant, a string of hanging elephants and a wooden box that might hold one of his elephants, who knows! Either way, I think he now had more stuff than the kids.
Showstopping way to end the day
Arriving an hour and a half before sunset, we took our spot, with unreal and uninterrupted views of the Taj Mahal. I climbed up onto the wall, and just sat in ore, as the sun sprayed its golden colours out over the beaming Taj Mahal. It made for one of the most colourful and dramatic sunsets I had ever seen.
This was a day I will never forget.
Not only had I ticked a bucket list item, but a wonder of the world. I had been silenced, overwhelmed, and even taken off my feet by the day. It's not often that happens.
There was only one way to cap today, and that was with a celebratory cocktail. It was just a shame that it was at the hotel rooftop bar, which quiet-frankly stank like a drain. After a cocktail or two, and a bite to eat we headed for bed.
Michael was singing away - it must have been a good day, either that or the smell of the sewage hit him.
Travelling India Day 4 - A Forgotten Era
Today we moved on once again, which came with mixed feelings. One of sadness as we were leaving Agra and its incredible beauty behind. Secondly, a feeling of relief that we were out of the Taj Hotel and Conference Centre.
Our aim today, to survive another long car journey and arrive in Jaipur safely rather than hell in a burning vehicle. On a lighter note, we had some fantastic stops planned along the way.
Firstly, we visited Fatehpur Sikri, an abandoned walled city, built in the 1570s by Akbar the Great.
The city replaced a pre-existing 12th-century settlement.
In the same fashion as the Taj Mahal, you have to get jeeps to the main city gates. Although, here it was a little confusing. After parking up, crowds are shipped in outdated, polluting busses from the car park to the main city.
On the plus side, it does limit the number of vehicles near the city walls. School report, A for ideas, D- for execution.
The abandoned oasis
By now, we had already seen a lot of Mughal red sandstone buildings, and yet, no two were the same. Undeniably, there was a common theme. Yet every wall, dome, arch, you name it, had a style and personality. Each design had a differing idea and a unique creative streak.
It's madness but in a good way.
I know I bang on about it a lot. But this is how noticeable it is. As in most of the tourist sites, there was a feeling of peace and serenity. Not to mention, an almost unjustified amount of shock at the levels of cleanliness. The city was pruned to within a millimetre of perfection.
Outside of these tourist locations, there is so much pollution and noises of all kinds. So every time you step into a place of such drastic disparity, it becomes ever so noticeable. The floors are spotless, the noise levels drop to almost nothing, and the air feels more oxygenated. Furthermore, you lose the crowds.
It could be a different world.
An impressive era
Fatehpur Sikri must have been something impressive back in the day, sadly, only 1% remains intact. That figure is in no way deters from the magnificence of what remains. The sheer brilliance and audacity of the surviving buildings within the abandoned city can only be admired.
I would rather be back in the 1% of the abandoned city, over most, intact major cities, throughout the world.
The bus back to the main car park was, once again crammed. Since stepping off the bus, this was my first real indication that it was busy.
We felt like we were the only ones around, once inside the city walls.
However, a word of warning. Within, the gauntlet, between the bus pick up/drop off, and where you park, are numerous stalls selling, well, crap. They are, most certainly pushy and persistent sellers. You do almost have to hand them off. I thought a scrum was going to be formed.
Time for lunch
Anyway, we survived and headed up the road in search of lunch. We came across one of the most unique and decorative restaurants I'd ever seen. It set within hotel grounds called Laxmi Vilas Palace in the city of Bharatpur.
When I saw it was a buffet, I was a little disheartened. I am a lover of a good menu.
That said, due to the variety and quality of food on display, it's worth the slight detour into the city. I had a full three-course meal, each more delicious than the last.
Personally, from my quick swaraj into the hotel grounds, I would recommend a short stay too.
We thought it a good thing to hit the road before I burst. I don't think that would have made good business for them. Our next stop outdated most things, including, the previous 12th century abandoned city, and even, Great Uncle Michael.
Well well well
Chand Baori Step Well dates back to the 8th and 9th century and is still in impeccable condition. I am going to put this out there, it is the most impressive well I have ever seen... 'argue in the comments at the bottom of the page'.
The 3,500 steps over a depth of 30 meters is a sight to behold. To be honest, I find words difficult, when describing Chand Baori Step Well. I don't think words can do it justice. Hence the photo.
If I had said, there's a 30 meter well with 3,500 steps to the bottom each crisscrossing as they go. One side of the well looking like an ancient Hindi water temple. Would you have imagined the above? I don't think so.
In reality, one picture speaks a thousand words here. I could never do this clever, practical and unique design justice.
I admit you don't need to spend hours here, and it is a case of, once you've seen it, you've seen it. By the same token, you have to agree it's a spectacular feat of engineering.
Before we knew it, it was time to hit the road once again. Destination, Jaipur. Oh well - Sorry, not sorry.
The Pink City
We arrived late into Jaipur, which was a mass of noise, light and mayhem, not that we expected much else. More importantly, we had arrived at the outrageously beautiful Shahpura House, which was to be home for three nights.
There are not enough words to describe this hotel, the dictionary, thesaurus, in fact, the English language itself couldn't detail how great it is. The alternative and elegant decor instantly threw me back to my history lessons of old. Instantly, both Michael and I had smile's back on our face after the long drive.
Not only was everything from an era pre-Great Uncle Michael. It was from the era he, would have loved to have lived.
Despite the aged look, and feel, the furniture and decor were comfy and classy. It was exactly what I had been hoping for from hotels in India.
I bloody love it, especially the bar and pool table. If you plan on travelling to Jaipur then plan on staying here at the majestic Shahpura House.
Travelling India Day 5 - The Pink City
Day 5 started as day 4 finished. In a comfy bed, and a delightfully decorated room. Which was just what we needed after so many early starts.
The breakfast didn't let us down either, a delicious selection and a freshly made 3 egg omelette. Three egg omelettes seem to be the norm in India. I, for one, wasn't complaining, it's better than two. This set us up nicely for another day exploring India's landmarks.
Like excited kids, we hit the pink city early. Of course, our first stop had to be the mightly Hawa Mahal Palace, in the old Badi Chaupur square.
The magic of Hawa
The unmistakable, remarkable and bold design of the old palace is a top attraction within Jaipur.
The early morning sun shimmers across the pinky-red sandstone lighting the building in all its glory. With the local smells, sounds of snake charmers and the madness of the traffic you're in for a full India experience. Whilst I didn't see the building lit up at night, which is a shame, I have seen pictures, and they are mightly impressive. I would have to recommend early morning or after dark.
The above shot may not be the best, but there is a reason for that. Firstly, we didn't have much time. Secondly, we were risking life and limb crossing the road, just to get the whole building in shot. The majority of people attempted the shot from the safety of the pavement. Which, if you're not confident in the traffic, is something I suggest. It's better to stay safe. You only end up out of breath, shaking like a leaf, with one eye on the traffic, leaving one at the camera anyway.
Jaipur has so much to offer. It's fascinating history and stories pave the way for the remarkable architecture, one of which, was next in store for us. The Amber Fort.
The Fort is located in the hills, overlooking the town of Amer, 11km north of Jaipur.
There are numerous ways from Jaipur to the fort. For a full list, and more check out our thoughts on the Fort
Elephants are not the way
As per a few other tourists locations getting to the fort led us to yet, another jeep. Which was lucky. There is no way our bus would have made it up the hill to the gates, and I didn't fancy the climb. The narrow, steep, winding roads are a great laugh, although you do have to hold on tight. With the addition of the breeze ruffling your hair throughout the 10-15 minute drive its just great fun.
Upon arrival, there was a horde of pushy sellers. Some, who only give up as you enter under the grand gates. Don't buy anything, you'll end up carrying it around all day. They are there on the way out too.
Your first stop will be the grand square where crowds gather and those, who are a little more uneducated ride the elephants up and down the courtyard. Whilst they look healthy and happy, it's not something I recommend anywhere. Let alone here. I have heard a few stories about the cruelty the elephants suffer.
Once you've negotiated the elephants and the steps under the Lion gate to the next courtyard, everything, the history, the views and the impressive architecture improve dramatically.
The beauty of the fort
On the right, you'll see crowds of people all looking up with camera, phones and iPads in hand. They will all be admiring the mesmerising, Ganesh Pol entrance. The attention to detail is second to none, which makes it the main feature of the courtyard. Another excellent addition is the Diwan-e-aam, which is a sheltered area, made of numerous decorative pillars.
It is, however when you step through to the next courtyard, that things become even more impressive. The Amber Sheesh Mahal Gardens, are whilst small pack a punch. The intricate pathways and boxed hedges are something to be admired. The architecture and brilliance of the decor do not sit back and take second place. They too are charming. None more so, than the Jas Mandir, a mirror palace. The silver shines in a pattern that you just cannot take your eyes off. It's beautiful.
The remaining courtyard is no disappointment either, with beautiful artworks, design and a true sense of passion and elegance throughout. Especially the centrepiece, the fantastic Baradari pavilion.
The fun, however, is not over yet. Upon leaving you must first entertain the pushy sellers who await. Here is where you can get some epic buys. As you climb back into your mode of transport they will offer you a price so low you cannot say no.
When I say you, cannot. I mean. Michael couldn't. We now had a book to add to our collection. Having escaped, we jumped back in the jeeps and shot off down the hill for an exhilarating drive back to the car park. It is a great way to end what is a brilliant tour of a historically important grand structure.
Back to the city
On the way back to Jaipur, we passed a body of water called Man Sagar Lake. The mist hovered over the surface, with wonderful hills peering through to the rear. It wasn't, however, this beauty that caught our attention. There was something else peaking through the mist that did. That, was the Jal Mahal, a semi-submerged sandstone palace, in the middle of the lake. It was reflecting across the calm waters, almost, looking like it was floating. Whilst we didn't swim on over, we did stand and admire its beauty from afar.
The locals, the forever willing entrepreneurs, are aware of the beauty of this palace. Along the water's edge, they had set up stalls, selling everything from kids go-karts to spices and foods.
We left the lake with a quenching thirst for a lunchtime beer or two and headed to a bar. It turns out bars are very difficult to find in the majority of India. We managed to find one. To say it was dark would be an understatement, it was like a rabbit warren. There was no atmosphere, but the barman was very friendly and a conversation broke out. It was, however, a very pleasant beer, and one that was highly needed.
After a couple of beers and a spot of lunch around the corner, we headed back to our hotel. This meant one thing, a relaxing session in the bar. This was going to hurt tomorrow. Unlike my record on the pool table, which will never be forgotten, well by me anyway.
No, honestly, don't ask, blimey, don't go on. It was 6-0. You just don't quit, do you?
Day 6 - Looking to the Stars and some Fat Blokes PJ's
The day started with a sleep-in, a relaxing breakfast and a slightly more calm feel compared to previous early mornings. That, however, didn't negate the excitement the was in the air for the day ahead.
We crossed paths once again with the impressive Hawa Mahal Palace. As per yesterday, it was shining brightly in the morning sun. This time though, we were more interested in something just around the corner, the City Palace.
Again, trying to avoid the persistent crap sellers, proved to difficult for Great Uncle Michael, he just couldn't say no, to yet another elephant.
Inside we found what we had been looking for, fine design, beautiful architecture and more unbelievable artefacts. The gems and jewels on display are only outdone by the Taj Mahal and Baby Taj.
You cannot film or take photos within the majority of the rooms at the palace. The rooms house wonderful, and detailed relics, including medals, carpets, paintings and weapons, to name a few. There's so much information regarding the British Rajs, and the Maharaja's who, over the years, have called Jaipur their home.
A world record
Within the courtyard, you'll find two staggering silver vases each with a 4,000 litre capacity. Their size has earnt them a place in the Guinness Book of World Records They are the worlds largest single sterling silver vessels. Both with a story to tell.
Check-out the link for this story and more about the palaceÂ
Other highlights include the Mubarak Mahal, which again, has numerous artefacts enclosed within. These include garments worn by past Maharaja whose, plus plus plus size pj's, are on show.
I was both shocked and disturbed. Genuinely, the pyjamas were as wide as they were long, you cannot miss them. If you cannot find them, go back to the tent-like objects hanging on the wall and check the label. It states pyjamas. The fat git.
The Palace is well worth the small entry fee of 300 Rs (£3.20), it's a no brainer for me.
Yet another record-breaker
Right next door to the beautiful palace we found yet another astonishing area. An 18th century Jantar Mantar.
The Jantar Mantar is an astronomical site that holds such complex and impressive instruments that help to tell the time, date, zodiac sign, the lines of longitude and latitude, and much more. One of which is, in fact, the largest stone sundial in the world. It is so accurate it is never more than 2 seconds out when telling the time in Jaipur.
That is impressive within a mobile phone. This relies purely upon, the sun and the carved stone. Just imagine the euphoria it caused when it was completed in 1734.
The first I knew of the Jantar Mantar was when I walked inside. It isn't something that would normally interest me, and whilst I found it interesting I wouldn't go back. It is, however, somewhere you should explore whilst in Jaipur.
The day wasn't done yet, there was still more in store for us.
Michael's time to shine
So far on this tour of India, Great Uncle Michael seemed to be extremely keen on buying shit. So as a little treat we headed down to the market. Not that we had any cash left, or room in our suitcases for that matter. I think we already had India in there, all but the kitchen sink that is. Although I'm sure if there was a miniature sink with gems, he'd have that too.
There are a plethora of markets in the Jaipur area. We decided on the famed streets of Bapu Bazar, near the mighty Prince Albert Hall, and Jaipur Zoo. Whilst, not the largest market I've ever seen, it has to be one of the most colourful.
Blasts of colour don the old pink walls which flank the streets like a technicolour tunnel. Everywhere you turned there were bright oranges, yellows, blues, reds, the brightest rainbows either of us had ever seen.
Never thought I say, lack of smell, at a market
The overriding sensation of the market still rings in my mind and will do for many years to come. The only let down for me, being a foodie, is the lack of two main sensations - taste and smell. There wasn't that overwhelming smell of flavour and spice, and that was a disappointment. For the most part, it was exciting and provided us with an hour of laughter.
For the most part, every stall was similar, the shop keepers a little too keen, and there was that distinct lack of smell. That didn't matter, what did matter, was Michael, BOUGHT SHIT. We had a great time, and now we had a little item to remind us of this brilliant experience.
That was enough for one 87 years old, it was g&t time, and I'm not one to argue. Wearily after another eventful long day, we retreated to the hotel dragging half the market with us. A cheeky g&t and a relaxing swim in the hotel pool got us revitalised. With refreshed vigour, it soon became time to turn on the skills at the pool table.
Party hummmmmmm
After dinner, and numerous g&t's, beers and more, the night was once again thrust into life. Whilst making our way up to our room, we heard drums, singing, and what sounded like, a decent shindig. I'm not one to miss a party. So, we headed back out on the streets with some friends and hunted down the party.
It wasn't long before I was in the middle of the drums. I was dancing like a drunk uncle at a wedding, with a very large grin on my face.
It was kicking off. The noise was so loud, and I just went for it. During my dancing routine, I had become centre of attention, whilst Michael stood to the side covering his ears in protest. I think they were laughing, more than enjoying my moves.
He is not a fan of the, as he put it, "boom boom boom rubbish".
Classic Micheal.
We didn't stay long before I couldn't hack the pace, so we bowed out with our heads held high. In all fairness, it was probably for the best, we had a long day on the road tomorrow.
Travelling India Day 7 - An Unexpected Visit
Waking up on day seven, I had no real aspirations or expectations, today was simply get back to Delhi, and complete the Golden Triangle. Little did I know what was in store, but it made for one hell of a story.
As mentioned, whilst in Jaipur, we stayed in Shahpura House, and it was as near to perfect as we'd hoped. It, therefore, felt only right to stop an hour and a half up the road, in the town of Shahpura. It had to be worth checking out, right?
We, couldn't get into the town in our vehicle, so like numerous attractions, we hopped in a couple of jeeps. The open-top jeep took us into the narrowing streets and wound us into the heart of the village. Even they couldn't take us further in. The street corners became unpassable unless you're on a motorbike, or walking.
The Streets of Shahpura
Cautiously, we placed one foot in front of the other, stepping over sewerage and rubbish. In a weird and wonderful turn of events, I enjoyed it. It wasn't fake, and it wasn't another pristine setting of a well-oiled money maker. This was real, and what I had envisaged.
We, firstly, visited a sweet maker, who seemed to produce one product. It was a bite-size sugary thing. A sugar hit in one bite. After watching for a short period. I think its safe to say, health and safety hadn't reached Shahpura yet. Watching the dude's toes creep over the flip-flops touching the sweets was interesting.
That said, it doesn't detract in any way from the impressive and unusual approach to the way the sugary snacks were produced. It was interesting to watch.
We left the guys to it and wandered further into the small village. We passed cattle and waving, happy locals in the streets. Shahpura seemed a very hectic dirty place, yet at the same time had a sense of friendliness and spirit. Although, the moped driver didn't seem to care for anything or anyone.
Moving further into the town, we passed a very nondescript building. A stern-looking lady stood in the doorway caught my eye. That glance changed Shahpura for us. What arose from that glance will be a moment neither, Michael or I will forget.
That glance
Over the road from the lady was a small playground with a few smiling children laughing and taking an interest in us. After a little interaction, the lady standing in the doorway raised a smile. It turned out, she was also working in a school. She could see us waving at the children, and invited us through the door, in which she standing.
Upon passing through the small, dull entrance the building changed. It became a beautifully decorated courtyard, full of love and with positive mems and phrases written over every door. Within the courtyard were several doors, spaced over a couple of levels. Behind one of the open doors, I saw a group of young faces smiling in our direction. Having confirmed we were allowed in I entered the small dark room. There was no light, bar one small window, with the shutters closed.
Unexpectedly, all the children stood as I entered. I'm a nobody, but tradition and manners will never go out of fashion for me. It was one of those heart-stopping moments. I managed to speak, a little, to the kids and we even cracked a couple of jokes, it was beautiful. It almost brought a tear to my eye.
They did ask for a little song, firstly, I didn't want to put them through that, even the shower is sick when I sing, and secondly, I couldn't think of song other than Wonderwall. After more laughter, I headed back into the courtyard and popped my head into another class. I found the really small kids who, again, all stood. It was the cutest thing. One by one, they came to the front of the class and sang a little song. It was breathtaking.
Stunned into silence once again
After, in stunned amazement, I headed back to the central courtyard and had a little natter with the headteacher. At which point, I suddenly heard a familiar voice. One only I recognised, and it sang "God save our gracious Queen, long live our noble Queen". You guessed it, Great Uncle Michael was in full voice and throwing back the years to his choir days.
I ran in, thinking oh my god, this cannot be good, and couldn't get my phone out in time.
But
What happened next was mind-blowing. There is only one way to give it justice. I'll shut up, and let you watch the video, so enjoy...
Yes, they stood and sang their national anthem back at him. Jaw-dropping and beautiful is all I can say.
By now every door in the courtyard was open, and little faces looking out from the darkness behind. Upon our final goodbyes, we shock each hand that flung our way, waving uncontrollably. We left the school as the shutters flung open, as we waved and shouted until the last face disappeared from view. If we could have stayed there all morning joining in the lessons, but we had to move on.
We finished our walking tour around the city and into our lunch stop, the fantastic Shahpura Palace. The, other, residence of the royal family that owned our hotel back in Jaipur.
One hell of a welcoming
Shahpura Palace is an extravagant building located in the middle of the shockingly poor village. The Palace is completely fenced off from its surroundings, thanks to a large manned gate and perfectly pruned hedges. I suddenly had an overwhelming sense of shock at the vast difference in social status, which was unnerving. I couldn't live like that, knowing what was happening so close around me.
Welcomed with hundreds of flower petals sprinkling down on us, from the balcony above was quite the experience. As we entered the building another Indian welcoming occurred, this time, Michael knew what to do. It was an extremely warm greeting.
Inside was yet more elegance and class with lavish furniture, and design on a grand scale. The walls, complete with gold leaf and other semi-precious gems, we couldn't help but be impressed. We took a look around the rooms before being given the chance to dress up as a King. We quickly got into the swing of things, wielding swords around as we imagined kings and emperors of old would have.
Lunch followed and was on the same grandeur as the welcome. It was bloody fantastic. I scoffed my face like a little piggy and went back for seconds, not to mention dipping into a type of rice pudding for desserts. During the meal, we had forgotten the poverty outside. Suddenly the manned gates, the high walls, the perfectly pruned hedgerows and that elaborate welcome made sense. It isn't all there to keep the poor out, it was all there sadly, to keep the royals from seeing the poor and the vast amounts of poverty. It was one-lifetime broadway show and one that had to keep rolling, no matter what.
Race to Delhi - gridlock
After dinner, the jeeps took us for one more stimulating race back through the small town. We found our main transport and hit the road, heading back to Delhi.
Now, traffic in Delhi had previously been, busy but moving, and along the lines of what I had seen in films and on the news etc. On the whole, I would say I've been in some terrible traffic jams around the world. Nothing could have prepared me for arriving on the outskirts of Delhi just prior to rush-hour. That was something else. Fifteen lanes of traffic merged into three over the space of 200 meters causing all sorts of weird and wonderful manoeuvres. Horns were beeping and madness ensued.
We must have been lucky previously. Our guide Shakeel told us that this was normal. Well, bugger that for a laugh. I would just stay in the office, and not bother, with this rush hour crap. There was no way I was prepared for this. So imagine Great Uncle Michael's face, as he gazed, bewildered at the madness. He remembers the invention of the wheel.
I don't know why I was so surprised. The city has around 22 million registered inhabitants. When you add the rough sleepers, visitors, business people and tourists, it was bound to be like this. We travelled 15 miles (25 kilometres) and it took us 2 hours, 50 minutes.
That was normal, imagine doing that every day after a shift, no thanks.
A Valentines reminder
We arrived back at the luxurious, Taj Palace New Delhi, where we had spent our first night. Within an instant, we felt relaxed, comfy, and at home. It was only when we went downstairs for dinner, we realised what day it was. It was bloody, valentines day. There I was, on Valentine's, dining with my 87-year-old Great Uncle, and to be honest, I don't know who was more disappointed, me or him.
We had a couple of g&t's but kept it sensible after a long day. Tomorrow, we were back on the early starts, for tomorrow was yet, another highlight, the Toy Train to Shimla.
Travelling India Day 8 - A Toy train
"Bbbbuuuuuuuzzzzzzzzzzz bbbbuuuuuuuzzzzzzzzzzz" 5am, and that bloody alarm was going off already. By 6, we were ready, in the lobby, with a takeaway, breakfast box in hand, kindly prepared by the hotel. Not long after, we headed out into the already noisy and busy streets of Delhi. We arrived at the main station, to the north of the capital, around 7 am.
Our first experience of the Indian trains was one of pure comedy. Before the train had even stopped people were jumping off. That alone was fascinating, however, when you add others trying to leap on, like salmon going upriver, it became hilarious. We, as the British do best, waited, queued and then gracefully climbed aboard. That is if you call, pushing the arse of an 87-year-old, up on to a train carriage, graceful.
Luckily, we had pre-booked seats up in first class, so there was no real rush. Things were going great. There was loads of room for luggage, lots to eat and drink (free, and safe to consume), large comfy seats, acceptable toilets, and very attentive attendants.
By the time we had got to our destination in Kalka, I was sufficiently full. The attendants were all-round brilliant hosts. It did, however, make me laugh that their shirts all said: "no tips please". Some, of course, did their best to hide that, with name badges or a cleverly tucked in, piece of material. Yet, as we pulled into the station, they stood in the doorway expectant, with hands out for that cheeky tip.
Shimla bound on the Toy Train
We had already been on a train for over 4 hours as we pulled into Kalka Station. Normally, the thought of transferring to yet another train would be one of dread and fear. This was different, there was a buzz of excitement and expectation was in the air, and it filled the station.
We boarded the Toy Train at midday, and instantly things didn't seem as Michael Portillo and other celebs had made-out. Baring in mind, he describes the journey as "a train journey of a lifetime" and "a great rail adventure". It hadn't started well.
We were crammed into a small carriage with the most uncomfortable wooden slated seats. It wasn't how I recalled the celebrities footage at all. There was no room for all our luggage, let alone, dancing and moving about. Backpacking India, carrying a large bag? Don't expect the toy train to care. We had just enough room for us and our day bags, the rest we sent up to Shimla via car. It is fair to say, the Toy Train was not making the impact we had hoped for.
Michael braving the open door
Luckily, our seats were at the end of the carriage, next to the door. This meant we had more room than the others and had access to the door should we need to stand up. Or, in our case, hang outside where we could get some refreshing air.
We kept positive. The views of the stunning countryside, mountains and eventually the snowcapped Himalayas would wow us later in the journey. The first 45 minutes, is in one word, underwhelming, meandering slowly through small half-built villages with litter everywhere, it's disgusting.
Slowly, as the train climbed and weaved its way both north and up the mountains. The small villages gave way to hillsides and valleys, but disappointingly the views never really took off. Yes, there were glimpses of natural beauty. However, before you could point it out, there was a half-built monstrosity of a building, or a small town blocking the view.
Neither of us expected this, and it seemed the rest of the carriage felt the same.
High banks, tall trees and over 80 tunnels lined the tracks, all of which obscured the views. It isn't a great journey at all. If anything, it was just a 5-hour uncomfortable ass killer.
Our hang out
The highlight for me was 'unsurprisingly' getting to hang out the door of a moving train as per the 'train journey in Sir Lanka'. Let's be honest, for those of us who aren't allowed to hang out of a train back home, that was always going to be a laugh. Another highlight was getting off the train at a couple of stations and stretching my legs. Just being off the carriage was a winner. Speaking to a few others on the train, they sadly agreed.
One thing we couldn't decide on was this. Would you recommend it?
Some said yes, I think people should do it as a one-off tourist event. Others said no they would rather drive and get to Shimla in a comfy car and at a quicker pace. Whilst others came up with a great suggestion, and that was this. Drive the first few hours, and board the train an hour or two outside Shimla, which is a suggestion I will steal. The views are better during the last hour or two, plus you still get to say you've ridden the Toy Train. Not only that, but you avoid 5 hours of pain.
We did, however, all agree that we wouldn't do it again. So make of that what you will.
The delights of the Oberoi Cecil
We chugged into Shimla at just gone 5:30pm, met with chaos, which we had expected to leave behind in Delhi. We escaped the station and it wasn't long before we came across our little sanctuary of paradise, The Oberoi Cecil, Shimla.
This hotel is everything you could expect or want after a long day of travelling. This even included a delicious hot chocolate welcome drink. Just heavenly. The hotel had style, grace, elegance and a sense of peace, all of which immediately relaxed us.
The rooms were fit for royalty. There was more room than I had ever imagined possible for a hotel. The period decor was how I imagined it would have been, during the time of the British Raj. Whilst, not my taste it was brilliant. This place was pure luxury.
Dinner was no different.
The grand dining area was far superior to any other hotel we had stayed, and the food magnificent. There was a vast choice on offer too. The tastes were to die for, I just couldn't stop eating. There seemed to be an endless supply of naan's and always served with a smile. The waiting staff were fantastic, so kind, friendly and willing to help at any time. They had a wealth of knowledge about the area and its history, which was great. I couldn't speak highly enough about the wonderful staff.
After a beautiful meal and a great evening, our eyes became a little weary. After a long day, we made our way up to our rooms. Within an instant, the day's hardship, sat on that wooden seat bumping up the mountains had vanished.
My arse was now living the life of luxury tucked up in the comfiest of beds.
Travelling India Day 9 - What the Monkey Want's the Monkey Gets
Luckily today had a more relaxed start getting up and showered at a reasonable time. Once again, there were numerous options for breakfast, in the grand settings of the old dining hall. I went with their three egged, Indian omelette. It was delicious, and just what I had hoped for. A good amount of kick, but not enough to ruin the taste, not to mention it was very filling. I couldn't have started the day any better.
Snow-capped mountains greeted us as we left the wonderful Oberoi for our morning adventure. Whilst the views were distant, we could see the beauty of the Himalayas, and why they had become renowned as a place of natural beauty.
However, the Himalayas could wait. Today we had a short 5 minute drive up the road to Rashtrapati Niwas. A grand mansion set in vast mountain top gardens, in which the British Viceroy to India would call home. Both Michael and I were astonished at the intricate design. The building oozed unbelievable wealth and importance. It truly is a special building, even more so when you think of its location, and how the materials got up here.
All was not well with Rashtrapati Niwas, yes it is a superb building one of immense stature and one of historical importance, but that is also its downfall. It was rammed.
It was something that should have set off warning signals for our time in Shimla. The entrance room was heaving with people, to the point where it was almost difficult to get in. If this many people had come to visit a Viceroys lodge, what would the rest of Shimla be like, or, was it that there was nothing else to do here.
Pure rudeness
Upon seeing the guide surrounded by people we made our way over. We found him just finishing off his speech. That fair, we can wait for the next one. We asked him what he was saying, and if he or another guide would be doing another tour shortly after. Rather rudely, we were told that he had just explained everything, and wasn't going to explain it again.
All of a sudden, a door opened to the next room and the stampede of shuffling feet began. It was the vast number of I was expecting at the attractions in the likes of Delhi, not here. It was horrible.
I looked into the congested room and, there was, as per the first room, nothing of any significance or note. Just pictures accompanied with a write up of what it was like to live here at the time of the British Viceroy.
No way were we staying.
We asked to leave and a few others joined.
We were led into the impressive entrance hall 'which we didn't enter in originally' and headed out to the calmness of the gardens gasping at the sweet fresh air.
Maybe the grounds were better
I cannot imagine it's easy to maintain a vast garden in any setting, let alone an often snowcapped mountainous region. So I don't know what I was expecting, but it wasn't this.
There was nothing to see, no colour and no flowing designs. Admittedly, it was February and the small rose garden wasn't in bloom, which would have been stunning and awash with colour, but there was nothing else to see.
To the rear of the mansion, the dull theme continued and got upsetting if anything. The gardeners were smashing up what looked like a beautiful ornate patio and replacing it with a new modern tennis court. Further down the garden was an indoor sports hall. Upon our arrival, and genuine surprise at the incredible building, I never expected to say this next line.
But here goes. - We were bored as fook, and got the hell out.
The most entertaining, part of the tour was watching the cheeky monkeys, harassing and scaring the guests around the gift shop.
Disappointment in Shimla
Sadly, Shimla continued to disappoint as we made our way through the town and up to the eastern peaks. Our next destination was the other big tourist trap, a monkey temple -The Shri Hanuman Mandir Jackhoo. Firstly, the final few minutes of the drive are quite frankly sickening and not for the faint-hearted.
Secondly, upon arrival, you'll notice the monkeys here are a tad aggressive and seem to have made the temple their home. I've seen monkey attacks in Ubud and Uluwatu, and they aren't fun, and never end well. If the monkey wants something it will take it unless you act in a very particular way. I say let them have this temple.
Michael started to look a bit unwell but carried on up the remaining stairs slowly. We were now around 2,500 meters, so the air was thinning slightly. I assumed it was a mix of that, tiredness and age. At the top, was a 36 meter high statue of the monkey god Hanuman. It was colourful, as was the temple itself. In a like manner to Rashtrapati Niwas, it was crowded and unbearably loud. There wasn't anything here for me, or Michael, and at around 2,500 meters above sea level we couldn't even find a good view. Well, one maybe?
We did, however, manage a little TV interview. The local crews were running around asking a few questions, about our thoughts on the temple. Wrong crowd. Michael then started to shake rapidly and became very unwell so we headed back to the cars. At first, I thought this was his way of saying, let's get out of here. Once back in the car he perked up, even more so when we got to the town.
The Pre-trip highlight
Michael had been looking forward to Shimla. He spoke a lot about a church he wanted to see. However, due to his ever-growing irrational shaking and random comments, we relaxed in the warmth of a restaurant. We got him a cup of tea and a hot meal. Which, perked him up rather well.
After lunch, we headed to the Christ Church located on the east of a beautiful old square on the ridge. The church to me was like any other, stain-glass windows, plaques and pews with an alter. It was cute, and it was beautiful but nothing extravagant. I think the special thing with this church was its location within the world and its faith in an otherwise, mainly Hindu environment.
We lit candles remembering those who are no longer with us, and Michael eagerly read all the plaques. Having seen everything there was to see in the church, we headed back out and on to the ridge. It was at this point Michael became very unwell again. He was shaking uncontrollably and was unable to hold his own weight. Thanks to the efforts of a number of people we carried him back to the hotel. He was like a dead-weight, and Michael is not a small man.
I then spent the evening at the hotel with friends relaxing after a deflating day, hoping to see Michael feeling better in the morning.
I enjoyed yet another great meal and fantastic service with a few beers/g&t's all of which helped out. This hotel had saved the day again.
If only that was where the day ended.
Delhi Belly hell
I returned to the room drunk, expecting to fall gently into my cloud of pillows, only to find the room in a state. Delhi Belly had struck poor Michael, the bathroom, bed and floor a river of brown. I did my best but there was nothing I could do, we needed to bring in the team.
The housekeeping team arrived and worked their magic. They even managed to deal with this shitty situation with a smile. Not one of them accepted a single rupee for their efforts. Not all lifesavers protect and serve, some heroes come with gloves and a mop.
The bathroom sparkled and shined once again, and with Michael cleaned up and now, able to run to the toilet and back I could rest my weary drunk head.
Travelling India Day 10 - A Himalayan View
Day 10 started with an unexpected bang at 4am, which I quickly identified as Michael attempting a frantic toilet run, which went epically wrong. The attempted dash left brown artwork running down the wall trickling into a wonderfully epic carpet.
It made Aladins magic carpet look a bit pathetic if I can put that thought in your heads.
Again I called the heroes in marigolds, which should be the next film in the Avengers series if you ask me. For the second time, they did the most magical job. These guys deserve medals, preferably not a brown or gold metal, maybe silver.
Day 10 - Attempt two
Day 10 then started for a second time, and a little more as per day 9, with a breakfast worth waking up for. I skipped the chocolate milkshake though.
Michael was in a terrible state but was able to talk and move once again, which was a vast improvement. I left him in bed trying to sleep and met a couple of other friends for a tour into the Himalayas, rejoicing in the crisp 'fresh' thinning air.
Meandering deeper into the snow-capped Himalayas the snow built around us as the mountainous wilderness became an almost Christmas scene. We came to a peak an hour or so drive north of Shimla, to a point higher than anything we had found previously on this trip.
I bring you the Himalayas
As the car gave way to a more traditional mode of transport, good old fashion walking, the views became more spectacular. It felt like we were standing on top of the world, kind of, with views out across outstanding natural beauty.
Yes, I was in the outer Himalayas, and not the Himalayas 'proper'. This though was a mountain range I had dreamt of. One I learnt about as a kid, one of magic and mystery. Now, here I was, looking out over them, no book or picture needed.
Not only that but our guide pointed out that we were now looking out over 5 countries. In one pivot I was standing in India and able to see China, Tibet, Pakistan, and Afghanistan. Nepal, however, snuck its way just out of sight beyond the horizon, but we knew it was out there.
Finally, Shimla was delivering.
We took a walk down the mountain into a little village of about 4-5 houses stopping outside one. A family of 4 sat outside on a rug on their patio, and our guide engaged them in conversation. They had a plaque on the wall by the door which translated into something quite upsetting.
It loosely went on to say, that they were amongst the poorest people in India. Furthermore, that the family had the potential to earn a maximum of 50 rupees a day (£0.50p). Due to this, they were assisted and looked after by the state. Accepting the funding meant they had to display this sign next to the front door.
Our guide explained that the plaque isn't seen as a degrading issue, but one to be proud of. I find that hard to believe, but at least they were being helped.
A small token for letting us in
We asked what the children enjoyed, and the answer was chocolate. Who doesn't, hey? It's no different here, just because you live up in the mountains. There was no way I could stand there and accept that 50 rupees a day would buy much chocolate. I just had to give the children a little treat, so their mother and father could buy them some. I am not too sure the kids knew what to do with the money. Don't worry, it did end up in the safe hands of their mother, a little reluctantly, from the young lad ;).
We then made our way back to our car and back to Shimla via a little hotel in the mountains for a hot drink and views out into the magnificent Himalayas.
Arriving back at the hotel, I found Michael still in bed and looking a little more lively, not 100% clean, but something a little cleaner than the previous night. I bathed and cleaned him, having found his head under the water at one point. Whilst my heroes returned, for a slightly more simple job this time. Having got him back to bed, with a little bite to eat, we left him in a much better headspace, feeling more like his old self.
Time to relax
I thought I deserved a little treat, so headed down to the hotel pool and sauna. It was paradise. Views out the window, overlooking the valley, and a heated indoor pool to die for. I could have spent an eternity there. The hotel kept on surprising me with its magnificence and grandeur. It had a feel like no other place I've stayed. It will, now, be the one place I mark all hotels against. I never wanted to leave.
The pool gave way to the steam room, which gave way to the pool once again. Once again, my yin and yang were equivalently happy.
As the darkness spread across the valley below the only thing that woke me from my relaxing paradise, was the thought of food. I couldn't help but wonder what delights lay in store for dinner.
The evening started with a few games of pool and a couple of g&t's. One game of table football was against one of the hotel nannies. Honestly, every member of the staff, at the hotel couldn't have done anymore to make me feel welcome. They pride themselves on an all-round experience, and that is exactly what you get.
Dinner soon came, and the exquisite tastes filled my mouth once again. As per last nights meal, the side dishes were in abundance, and the staff were beyond brilliant.
Today is what travel is to me, its experiences, its views, its feelings, its tastes, its meeting people, it's a sensation that you just don't get at home.
I topped it all off with a little late-night stroll to a viewing platform I had found earlier and attempted something I'm not very good at; Night photography.
Today was special, apart from that early morning shitty wake-up!
Travelling India Day 11 - Back to Delhi and Goodbye to Our Group
Morning update, as I know you want to know: Yet another early start, after a night of restlessness, and the occasional dart to the toilet. There was, however, no need for the hero's in marigolds, it was a clean start to the day. Hoorah. It needed to be, we had a lot of travelling to do.
Michael and I headed down for breakfast and were once again overindulging in the delicious temptations on offer. Sadly, we had to say goodbye to the wonderful restaurant staff and their extraordinary meals. As usual, the chefs were out chatting to guests at the tables, and saying their goodbyes, which I thought, was a lovely touch.
We then headed back up to the room and packed what was left to pack. That, unsurprisingly, did tire Michael out a little, but just the fact he was back to eating and able to do what he had done, was a relief. He went back to sleep for a nap, so I took the opportunity to head into Shimla for the morning and explore the town a little further with a couple of friends.
The shortest of taxi journeys led us to the bottom of The lift 'if you've been, you know!
Basically, due to the location of the town, and how it precariously dangles from the mountainsides, nowhere is easy to get to. There are parts of the town that are impossible for vehicles to access, other than the odd motorbike. That said, nowhere is that easy or quick to get to on foot either. Hence the taxi. The taxi could only get us so far, and that, as mentioned was the bottom of the lift.
The lift and the aroma of the spices
The lift is a genius and quick way up the mountainside, from the main taxi rank and the main road to the shopping, and market district. Before bundling into the large lift, you must get a ticket, which comes at a small charge. The first of the lifts take you halfway, most, run the 5 meters to the next lift which then continues to top. Don't worry if you just miss the lift, they are very frequent. I have to say, it was a bit of a squeeze, but that was all part of the experience.
From the Mall, most of Shimla is visible, and almost everything is easily accessible, the Ridge, Christ Church, Scandal Point, the shops and the unbelievable markets. As I explored the town slowly, it started to reveal why people come here. It's not for the tourist traps of yesterday, it's for the town itself. I enjoyed experiencing the local way of life, the narrow busy streets, and, of course, the markets. Now, I could see why Shimla was such a success.
The highlights for me were the sounds and smells of the market, more specifically the spices. The views weren't that bad either if I'm honest. It was everything you could want in a market, and what I was looking for. I did manage to pick up a little memento for my aptly named, shit shelf. My, shit shelf, is just somewhere I keep all my crap I buy from around the world as a little memory.
A few rupees later it was time to head back. Michael was awake and ready to go, which was a relief. We jumped in the cars and headed down the mountains, making our way south to Chandigarh, where we rejoined the train back to Delhi.
One too many
We were, once again, very impressed with the first-class carriages. The service was great, it was warm, cosy and the food was great. That was a relief, as it was another long journey back to Delhi. We arrived back a little later than planned at 9:40pm. I had hoped the traffic may have died down. However, it hadn't. The short distance between the station and the hotel took 50 minutes.
Luckily, we were back in the 5-star Taj Palace, New Delhi. Michael had survived and in style. Feeling more himself, and in Familia surroundings, Michael jumped quickly into the comfy room and went to bed.
I hit the bar for a farewell drink to our group of fearless travel buddies. Things got a little out of hand, and one drink became two, became three, and before I knew it, it was 1:30am. Worth it, but future me was not going to be happy with myself. Partly, because I had another six-hour train journey south, in around 6 hours.
Travelling India Day 12 - A Train to Paradise
Waking up to the alarm at 5am nearly killed me, and as expected, I was not happy with my previous self. I probably deserved to be a lot worse than I was. However, the main thing was, Michael was back to full health. We got ourselves ready and were down at the reception checking out with yet another, beautiful boxed breakfast.
Once again into the breach...
It was 6am, and we were making our way through the early morning traffic, to yet another train station. The station was already thriving, and awash with colour. Not to mention, an announcement machine that, never seemed to shut up. This machine went on and on and on, never drawing breath. This made the train delay, ever so painful. The train had been rolling for 15 hours or so, I think we can let it off 25 minutes.
Life in second class
Before we knew it we were on our way south to Ranthambore, and hopefully on to the tigers. Again people were throwing themselves off the train before it had stopped. I couldn't take my eyes off, it was great entertainment. There was, however, one issue. This time, we were in 2nd class, and this was not, what Michael was used to. Furthermore, it was a sleeper train in the middle of the day. He was not impressed.
It is fair to say, it was not comfortable and seemed awfully like being back on the toy train. It was a case of sit down and just hope to arrive at our destination as soon as possible. Unfortunately, over six hours of pure discomfort followed. There was one plus, neither of us needed the toilet at any point. Trust me, they were something else.
I did laugh as I explored the carriages. Not only was the main door open, but there was also a cabinet door flapping around, like an old musician. It had wires flailing and a large skull and crossbones with the word DANGER underneath.
Only in India.
A smiling stranger
To be honest, the less said about this journey the better. Michael enjoys the finer things in life, and this was not fine. It wasn't comfortable but was ok for me. I though am not 87, and I'm used to roughing it.
As we neared our destination, we started getting our bags ready. We made our way to the doors to ride out the last couple of minutes and got chatting to a very nice man. He had a smile on his face and had a personality that just warmed all those around him.
We must have done a bit of speeding as we arrived bang on time, at the small station in the town of Sawai Madhopur, just outside the famed Ranthambore National Park.
We said goodbye to the friendly chap and headed down to met our driver. This was a completely different part of India, unseen by us. There was no highrise shining marble, or gem covered buildings. Sand and dust now replaced the roads, and pavements had given way completely. Cows and camels were more common on the 'roads' than vehicles, it was amazing.
Hotel Protocol
That train journey was all forgotten as we drove through the small dusty town. A smile had returned to both our chirpy fascinated faces. We pulled into our hotel Sawai Vilas, and I started my new, hotel protocol. Is this as good as the Oberoi Cecil in Shimla? Unbelievably, the answer was yes, not only was it as good, it was better.
The entrance was beautifully maintained, and so elegantly designed. Check-in was smooth and easy. Soon after, we were walking to our room through the most luxurious of grounds, pruned to perfection.
The door was opened to the room, and it was total perfection. I wasn't sure if I had died on the journey and gone to heaven. This place was almost too good. It couldn't last, could it?
Paradise
We spent a couple of relaxing hours on our patio in the now hot sunshine. It was so relaxing, eventually, though we got a little thirsty. We decided to shower and get ready for a few drinks before dinner. Things got better, the bar was a shining light and the choice of drinks was outstanding. We honestly couldn't believe this was our hotel.
Then a familiar face appeared from the corridor, it was the friendly guy from the train. He came over to us and chatted for a while, asking how we were doing and what we thought of the hotel.
I thought that maybe he was a manager or something. After a little chat, I just had to ask if he was in charge, and he replied: "yes, I own the hotel".
A little bit of research, and we found out that he owned more than just this place. He had a small chain. He took time to come and speak to us and showed a real interest, it was phenomenal. It was brilliant that someone who owned so much, was still so humble, kind and have such an infectious smile.
Service with a smile
He guided us into the restaurant and headed out for a meeting. We then sat down to the most incredible food, not only of the trip but that I can remember eating. The waiting staff were attentive and always there when we needed them, but never in our face. They really couldn't have done more for us. It is at this point I would like to point out that not once did we even have to open a door during our stay, outside of our villa that is.
The place is pure gold.
The perfect evening was capped, with a cup of tea on the patio listening to the sounds of wildlife, in the not too distant national parks. The worlds most comfy beds then called our names as we sank into the duvet and off into the land of nod.
Travelling India Day 13 - On the look out for a wild Indian Tiger
The alarm went off as darkness still loomed outside, not even the birds had risen. We didn't even bother with a shower. We just threw some clothes on, did our teeth and headed out to meet our jeep, which was waiting outside. Today was another bucket list tick 'hopefully', we were off to the national parks and in search of the elusive Indian tiger.
We left the hotel at 6:30am and entered Ranthambore National park as the light started to shine through the darkness. The time had come, were now in search of one animal and one animal only.
Ranthambore, was it all it was said to be?
We had heard that Ranthambore National Park wasn't all it was made out to be. Word on the street was the other parks were, in fact, prettier, with more wildlife and higher chances of seeing animals such as tigers, leopards, bears, which let's be honest, it's what we are here for.
The area of Ranthambore National Park that allowed visitors covers about 1% of the park. This allowed the animals to enjoy the other 99%, without interference, which we liked. They should be free to roam their land without the likes on me, in a jeep, snapping them every 30 seconds. Less chance of seeing anything, but good for the animals.
The 1% was then split into 10 different sections. The idea was to keep track of the number of jeeps in each area, so not to overcrowd and distress the animals. I am also guessing so it doesn't get too crowded for the guests too. The park keepers seemed to be the people who chose what jeeps could enter what sections. The jeeps had to stick to whichever section they were given, again good in some ways, not in others.
It did mean the tigers, when/if spotted only had to deal with so many jeeps, which is great. Not so great if you were in section 3 and heard all the action going on in section 2. So close yet so far.
It's not like you're gonna run on over, is it?
No sightings, not yet
Our first safari was in section 6. It quickly became apparent that bugger all lived here. If I'm honest, it wasn't even that pretty. Were the rumours true?
I hope not. There were a few peacocks, a couple of large deer and sod all else. We then raced around the park aimlessly, which gave it away. This was not like any other safari, I had been on. There was no gently coasting around, with the spotter looking in all directions, or checking well-known sites. It was more, just being thrown around like a rollercoaster.
The driver and guide seemed to just drive to random spots, occasionally even up on to the mountain ridge. Now, I am no tiger expert, but no self-respecting tiger is going to climb to the top of the ridge, away from cover, away from water and away from any sign of food.
I don't know why we went up there, or several other locations within section 6. On one occasion we all climbed out and went for a walk upon the ridge. I mean, really? That's more than enough proof that there is obviously no tigers here. It seemed that this was a tourist trap, a money-making exercise and that we just weren't going to see anything.
Disappointed doesn't even cover how we felt. I could have seen deer and peacocks in my home city.
Inside info
We were back in the hotel by 9:40 spending only 2 hours 5 minutes in the park itself. Pointless.
Luckily, we had two other safaris to go. We were hopeful that they were a little better, and ideally with another guide out of section 6.
The hotel had put breakfast on for us, and it was just as good as the previous night's meal. It was then a couple of people came back from section 2 and 4 all with stories of tigers playing in the water, playing with the jeeps and being all cute.
I did find out later, that the original sections the park were 1 to 5. I started to wonder did they just open 6 to 10 as a money-making, chasing nothing safari. It had nothing on the safaris of Sri Lanka, here it felt like the drivers and guides had no care, no worries and didn't try to find anything, almost as if they knew there was nothing there.
Just what the doctor ordered
After breakfast, Michael went back to sleep, so I took advantage of the most beautiful pool and the glorious sunshine. Suddenly the morning's anger and annoyance disappeared, and I was back to pure luxury, without a care in the world. I spent 2 hours relaxing in paradise before going back to the room and enjoying a cuppa on the patio with the now refreshed Michael.
Lunch soon followed, and it was delicious. I really couldn't eat too much as breakfast was so filling, and not that long ago. After breakfast, we got ourself ready for our next, afternoon, safari. By pure luck, we were out of section 6 and had been given section 2 to explore. The chase was now on.
The pot of gold at, the end of the rainbow
Instantly, things were better. As we entered the park they had heard there was a tiger in the water. So for the first time, we raced with urgency and purpose. The wind rushed through our hair, and hope gave way to expectation. Was our dream about to be realised?
The answer lay 10 minutes away and in the form of a large female tiger relaxing next to the river. She turned to us as we got within 15 foot, checked us out, and then went back to her sunbathing. She was beautiful. The bucket list had yet another tick.
After ten minutes or so she stood, gave us another look and walked down to the river for a drink before slowly making her way into the shade and out of sight. We truly couldn't believe what we had seen.
The rest of the safari reverted to a lot of time-wasting and pointless drives, as per this morning. It didn't worry us too much, we had seen a tiger, and that was all we came for. It did, however, put that bitter end, to what should have been the most magical moment. I don't want to sound like I'm moaning for nothing, so here's an example.
Rant at Ranthambore
After the tiger had moved into the shade, she was out of sight. It became impossible for the jeeps to get close due to the terrain. Every jeep and lorry in the sector headed to a ridge overlooking the location. This ridge was a good distance away. The views of the tiger was that of a little orange and black dot, which Michael couldn't really see, its that sort of distance. We stayed up there for 25 minutes whilst the guides all chatted, laughing with each other before heading to the toilet stop where once again they all got together for 10 minutes to continue their chat.
This also happened in the morning safari.
I would rather have been searching for other tigers, than checking out a dot in the distance, and I wasn't the only one. We made our feels quite clear, asking to move, but to no avail. Another jeep then lost all power and movement on the ridge. We spent a further 5-10 minutes getting them back on the road.
It just seemed that the guides didn't worry too much about us, and just took each safari as a jolly.
I get it, they see tigers every day, it's not a big deal to them. But it is to me, and others who have this once in a lifetime dream. Would I recommend Ranthambore National Park, well it sounds stupid as I saw a tiger, but no, no I wouldn't. The safaris in Sri Lanka were far better, and from what people in the jeeps were saying, so were the safaris in the other National Parks around India.
All is not lost
Not everything was as bad as I was making out. We had just seen a tiger in the wild, in India. That was a breathtaking, wonderful, bucket list item. Some people said that they had been on 11 safaris here, and not seen a tiger. So, I was very lucky.
The main reason I would recommend the area is purely for the hotel. So what if the safaris were poor? Lots of us did see tigers, a lot didn't, obviously, but that's nature, it can never be guaranteed. The hotel alone was enough for me, and when you add in the thrill of possibly seeing a tiger out on safari, it's a no-brainer. That is how good this hotel is.
An evening of smugness
We were welcomed back to the hotel, aka paradise, with a cup of tea and cake. Lovely.
All the staff were interested in our day and wanted to see our tiger photos, as did the owner. They must have hundreds of photos of tigers, and even more stories, yet they took the time to share our excitement. It shows how great these people were, and how hotels should be run.
Shortly after, drinks and dinner were on the agender and it was one we were looking forward to. We once again dived headfirst into top foods so flavoursome and delicious it was unreal. Three courses of pure delight.
We took time to reflect on the day, and just couldn't believe what we had seen and the paradise we were enjoying. We wanted to stay longer at the hotel, and both said we had to come back. This was the feeling I had been longing for. This hotel, and seeing a tiger topped the tour of India off nicely.
After a long day, we flopped down into our beds and made the most of an early night knowing that once again the alarm would ring out early for our final safari.
Travelling India Day 14 - A Final Fling
The day started with that all to familiar sound, the alarm, but it didn't matter, it was all for a good cause. We jumped into our jeep for the last time, and instantly we were disheartened. We were back on our way to section 6. What were the chances, 3 safaris, 10 sections and we had two in the worst section? We almost gave up hope before getting to the park entrance, but there is that rush with safaris, no matter how small the chance, you keep your eyes peeled, and always have that burning hope deep within.
Rant revisited
This hope was shortlived, especially when we headed slowly around the park and up to the ridge once again. An hour in and we hit the toilet stop, I mean who needs a toilet stop after an hour on a 2 to 3-hour safari.
It seemed only the guides.
We saw even less deer than on yesterday mornings safari and this just felt like a waste of a morning. I could have been relaxing around the outstanding pool back at the hotel. Less said about the safari the better. To add insult to injury each safari the driver and the guide expected, yes EXPECTED a decent tip. Summed up in two kind words - Very Disappointing.
A hot drink and delicious cake awaited our return at the hotel, not to mention the excited and hopeful staff. Telling them that we didn't see any tigers was like letting down a family member. After polishing off the cake we had a world-winning breakfast. A quick shower later and having packed our final things it was sadly time to leave paradise. At midday, we left the hotel with what appeared to be half of the staff from the hotel walking us to the car. They waved us off as we made our way back to the train station.
Train of discomfort
Upon arrival at the station, there was a precession, full of noise, dance and tremendous colour. The festival for Lord Shiva was in full flow and was a treat for tired eyes. As the precession made its way into the town our train arrived and we climbed on board, once again to 'Michael's favourite' carriage, the second class sleeper.
Only this time it was worse. This time we had two top bunks, and watching/pushing an 87 year old man up to a top bunk of a sleeper train at lunchtime was something else. Comedy for the others who had front row seats, but not for Michael. He soon adapted to his new surroundings and after a couple of pillows managed to relax. A spot of cramp for Michael put an end to any relaxing. In the same fashion as getting him up there, I got him down, slowly. We found a bottom bunk and managed to turn them into seats by the window.
The journey was once again not the most comfortable, however, full of everchanging views. We kept ourselves occupied for what seemed an eternity before arriving at our destination - Delhi. Our driver was waiting for us on the platform, which is always a relief. Firstly, we didn't have to go hunting for him in the crowds. Secondly, we had got off at the right station.
We survived the station, only for Michael to get hit by a passing scooter. Somehow, the phone got knocked out of the hand, of what I assumed was the passenger. Luckily, Michael was ok, just a little shaken, which is understandable.
The driving hadn't improved since our little trip south.
A quick knock-back
Having survived that scare and the terrible traffic we arrived at our new hotel The Lalit, New Delhi at 7:30 pm. It was the largest, of all the hotels we had stayed. When I say large, I mean gigantic. Check-in was smooth, almost, too quick and easy. We quickly found out why. The desk staff were speeding us through, as our room gave us access to the free bar, but only until 8 pm.
This guy worked is ass off, God bless him.
He told us not to worry about the bags, as he would get them to our room. It was like a horror movie, he was almost screaming at us ruuunnnnnnnn. It was like he wanted us to get drunk, end enjoy our last night.
We stopped in the room for the quickest of refreshment stops and hit the bar. We made it, the free drinks were all top brands, and the small bites perfect. Had we made it to heaven once again? A couple of g&t's and a plate of food later we decided to move on to the restaurant. Tonight was our last night in India. We wanted to end with something traditional, so chose the Indian restaurant.
I do not recall a single bad meal, and I ate India almost every night of the tour. Tonight was no different. The main dishes were beautiful, creamy and filled with melt in the mouth meats. When supported by garlic naan and great rice, I knew we were in heaven, somewhere we must have died, I just wasn't aware of it.
Last night laughter
The drinks flowed, and the food kept coming, as we dissected the trip. All the laugh out loud moments, the memories and stories we now had together, both good and bad. It was Michaels dream destination, and somewhere high on my bucket list. But, somewhere we both assumed we would never get to see.
We laughed long into the night before crashing into our room. I have to once again give the rooms credit, they were clean, large, and had everything you would need. The views up on the 17th floor were the best yet. The hotel had pulled out all the stops for our trip and again would be one I recommend to anyone visiting Delhi.
Travelling India Day 15 - Homebound
We woke at a reasonable time, and slowly made our way down to breakfast. It was only then we realised just how large the hotel was. The breakfast hall was heaving with people, so much so we queued to be seated.
A table was found for us, even if that did mean, dining with other guests. Which was no worries for us. That alone took 5-10 minutes. There was so much choice, whatever you wanted you could have.
It was like being a zoo, just chaos and madness with people running everywhere looking into cupboards and over counters for the best foods on display. Whilst obviously mass-produced it didn't taste it. The food tasted superb, not last night superb, but very very nice. We were both impressed and filled up as much as we could, knowing we had a whole day of travelling ahead.
Homebound
After breakfast, we packed our final things and checked out. As we slowly made our way through Delhi for the last time it felt like the end of the trip and sadly it was. We said our goodbyes to the driver & guide and headed into the airport.
Shortly after we hit the skies and headed for home, hoping and praying I get to see this great country again. I loved its people, the wildlife, its scenery and getting to experience and learn about its history and religion. Such a special country, and one I will hold close to my heart forever.
I was so proud of Michael.
He showed me that if you keep your mind active, believe in yourself, and have the will power, even in the occasional 'shitty circumstance. Sorry for the pun, you can do anything you want.
This trip had wiped me out, and I'm only 33. There were many many early mornings, long journeys, uncomfortable moments, sickening and saddening sights. We were on our feet for hours at a time, and there he was at 87 drinking into the early hours, getting up early, touring the national parks and busy markets. I think he is inspiring.
India you had it all, you gave it all, and Michael you made India yours. So much love and respect for both.
How do you think you'd cope at 87, running around India? Would you be causing mayhem?
Let us know what you think of my Great Uncle and our travels. Did you enjoy our stories? Do you want us to get away again? Let us know by commenting below.
Be quick though, he is already saying that that was his last long haul flight.