How to do Tel Aviv Like a Local
Last Updated: April 29, 2023
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HOW TO GET HERE | WHERE TO STAY |ย THINGS TO DO |ย WHERE TO EATย | WHERE TO PARTY | STAYING SAFE
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Visit the Old Town and the New
Tel Aviv is a real blended coffee bean. There are the old, rustic, yet pristine narrow streets of Jaffa to the south and the ever-growing glass-fronted shiny modern north.
As the architecture changes, so do the residents and the style and standard of living. You can feel the transition as you walk the streets. Whilst all beautiful in their own way, there isn't the consistency or complexity to make you sense that je ne sais quoi that all the great cities make you feel.
If I'm honest - Tel Aviv wasn't my favourite place in Israel. However, I get the impression it's because I did it like a tourist and not as a local. By the same token, if I were Isralie, Tel Aviv would be the city I'd settle in.ย
On paper, Tel Aviv has everything, a gorgeous warm and welcoming beach, history, nightlife, beauty and that modern touch. But unless you know when and how to do Tel Aviv like a local, you could find it all a little meh.
Hence, I am here to talk you through the best of Tel Aviv, including where to stay, what to do and, more importantly, where to find those delicious Middle Eastern dishes.
Having spent two short stints in the city in January 2023, I am passing on everything I wish I knew before I arrived to you.
What's Tel Aviv Like?
As mentioned, Tel Aviv is a mixed bag.
The elegant, clean and narrow limestone streets of Jaffa are awe-inspiring.
Whilst ancient, the area has a vibe of a sleek and modern mini-city within Tel Aviv. Flea markets, olive tree-lined pathways and busy pedestrianised streets fill the air with laughter, chatter and a sense of unity. The port is the oldest in the world and lined with small boats and bars and is the perfect place to catch a glowing and reflective sunset.
Yet, meander north slightly and the hipsters take over with a new and just as attractive style. Carmel Market is the focal point for these middle-Tel Aviv'ers. However, the buildings change too, and whilst remnants of the past linger, old turns to new very quickly. Cars roam almost every street, and the noise levels become more what you'd expect in a city. It's busier, but in a 'less laughter' and more working 9-5 kind of way.
Further north and the skyline changes with the seasons. Modern glass skyscrapers rise on an unprecedented scale and quickly become the norm as history and culture disappear quicker than a flying toupee in a hurricane. Sadly, this results in an almost unrecognisable style. It is more New York or London than Middle-East.
Yet, throughout the changes, there are two consistent factors. Firstly, nothing is cheap, and secondly, food is king. People are passionate about food in Tel Aviv, and it shows. Markets and restaurants whip up a storm, and you could find local and traditional bites across this city, and you should.
How to Get To Tel Aviv
This couldn't be easier.
If you're arriving in Israel from another country, the chances are you'll be flying into Ben Gurion Airport on the outskirts of Tel Aviv.
From Ben Gurion airport
Unless you are a local and have family and friends to pick you up, the easiest way to get to Tel Aviv is the train direct to Ha'Hagana near Tel Aviv Central bus station for 9โช (ยฃ2.14). It leaves every twenty minutes from the airport and takes ten minutes.
Once there, grab a bus from the central station. However, you'll also be greeted by numerous taxis fighting to take you wherever you need. They are an option, but obviously, they come with inflated prices.
Ultimately, you can also walk from Tel Aviv Ha'Hagana to Jafa and the Camermel Market areas. Both take between twenty-five to thirty minutes.
From Jerusalem
Again, this is easy. Simply grab the train from Yerushalayim/Yits'hak Navon, in the heart of Jerusalem, to Tel Aviv Ha'Hagana, which takes around thirty minutes, stopping at the airport. Many trains run on a very regular basis.
From Haifa
Again there are a couple of options from Haifa, but frankly, the only worthwhile and viable option is to take the train from Haifa Central to Tel Aviv Central. The journey will take around one hour and twenty minutes.
However, if you are arriving in Tel Aviv from any of the above during Shabbat, you will be hard pushed to find any public transport and will likely end up walking or paying a lot of money for a taxi. Try to avoid this.
Timing your Trip
How Long Should You Spend Exploring Tel Aviv?
In reality, Tel Aviv is somewhere you should visit if you're in Israel. However, in my opinion, there are better places to see, with more culture and history and better food options.
Although, with its proximity to the airport, it makes sense to start and end your trip here. Therefore, I'd say two full days at the beginning of the tour and two at the end of your Israel and Palestine trip.
Thus, four whole days in the city are adequate to explore the best of Tel Aviv.
The Best Time Of The Year For Visiting Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv boasts stunning beaches and has a zest for outdoor living. Hence, the best time of year for exploring Tel Aviv is late Spring and early Summer, then again in early Autumn.
During the summer months, Tel Aviv would be too hot. While during the winter, it'll be too wet to get the best out of your trip.
Where to Stay Whilst Exploring Tel Aviv
Being one of the largest cities in the Middle East and home to the majority of arrivals into Israel, Tel Aviv is awash with Airbnb's, hostels and hotels. Therefore you will never be stuck without somewhere to stay.
I've stayed in two fantastic locations in Tel Aviv, firstly, on the fringes of the Carmel Market and secondly, in the lively setting of Bograshov Steet, to the north. Both were close enough to the beach and had places to explore and bars to drink in.
However, I genuinely wish I'd stayed in and around north Jaffa, close to the beach, as that is where I spent most of my time. Hence, that is where I'd recommend you stay.
Sadly I cannot recommend any places in Jaffa as I haven't personally stayed there. Although, I did manage to have a sneaky look around the Jungle Jaffa Hostel to visit a mate, and it looked great.
Another place I'd check out, having stayed in the Abraham Hostelย in Jerusalem, and loving it, is the Abraham Hostel, Tel Aviv.
And, in truth, they're the places I'd stay next time I'm in Tel Aviv.
That said, below are the two places I stayed. Bar the locations, neither was great, but if you're after a room and somewhere to sleep, they're ok.
Private Room Next to Carmel Market
- What: Basic room within an apartment and shared shower and toilet.
- Where: On the outskirts of Carmel Market. (map)
- Why: Great location and the rooms were large and bright.
- Why Not: The room was large but just so drab. The whole apartment needed work done.
Ok, so firstly, there are no dates available this year. Something seems a bit odd. Hosted by a guy called Ariel, I can tell a very different story from the reviews. I may just have been unlucky. Who knows? All I can do is, as always, give you my experience.
Firstly, he declined my booking stating the room wasn't ready, then accepted my female friends booking within the same hour, bearing in mind we booked weeks in advance. Secondly, the room needed a lot of TLC.
The room was, however, clean, and the bed was extremely comfortable. I cannot fault that at all.
My final gripe is that he tried to charge us for damaging towels. We put them on the balcony to dry out, and a bird poop'ed on one. Truthfully, we should have known, as the balcony was a bit messy and not ideal for relaxing.
In January 2023, I paid 365โช (ยฃ80) for two nights.
Bugrashov 13 Room
- What: Ummmm. An apartment above a row of shops split into small rooms with an ensuite.
- Where: 15 Bograshov Street, north of the city and right next to the beach. (map)
- Why: It is near the beach and only a short walk to the lively King George Street.
- Why Not: The dude is a little strange, and the room is a bit basic.
So, the first thing to note is there are several rooms to rent within the apartment complex. The room you are viewing may not always be the room you get. Ours was not ready, so we got moved into the above.
Secondly, there was a small but significant language barrier, so it could be us misinterpreting things, but the host, whilst polite, was very awkward. It became one of those moments where you looked at each other and knew what the other was thinking. I couldn't wait to get out of there. All I wanted to do, was dump our bags in the readily made room and go.
Outside of that - the bed was comfy, and the bedroom and ensuite were clean. Furthermore, the apartments are in a superb location for those looking to enjoy the beach.
Honestly, I didn't use the kitchen or the other facilities, so I cannot comment on them. Although, they were clean and it was tidy. However, I just wanted to be out of the apartment.
In January 2023, I paid 540โช (ยฃ120) for two nights for two people.
Further Accommodation
Having experienced the two above on Airbnb and Booking.com in the city, I was gutted that I hadn't stuck to hostel life.
Whilst both the Airbnb's were well located, that was where the good news finished. Both were basic rooms with facilities. Plus, they had the owners living with us, just in a separate room.
Therefore, I'm guessing to get somewhere decent on Airbnb in Tel Aviv you'll have to fork out more than a backpacker's budget is willing to spend.
I'd recommend either hostel life or a hotel. However, below are all three options, should you wish to check them out.
Best Things to do in Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv is a large city. Nevertheless, there are many ways of getting about. If you have taken my advice, you should be in the thick of the action around Jaffa or the Carmel Markets, ideally, beachside.
If so, everything is walkable, even if it's hot and sticky in the midday sun. Once there, any chance you get, take the promenade, you'll have the sun beating down, but the wind coming off the Mediterranean Sea. Plus, there are some beautiful views out to sea too.
Although, if you're not into walking, you can grab a scooter to get you about.
As good as public transport is, remember one thing. During Shabbat, most things in the city close down, and you'll have to walk everywhere or pay inflated prices for a taxi. Hence why locals get everything they need before Shabbat kicks in.
Finally, when exploring Tel Aviv like a local, you must include food in your plans. If you don't eat right, you will never be considered a local in Tel Aviv.
For more on that, check out the where to eat section of the blog.
That said, let's look at my list.
Exploring Tel Aviv Like a Local: The Highlights
Locate the Suspended Orange Tree
- Why: It's super cool and intriguing.
- Where: In Jaffa, south of ha'ar Ra'amses Garden. (map)
- How long: A few minutes, or until you get the perfect photo.
- How much: You know me... it's free.
Ok, so it's not the most exciting 'thing to do' you'll ever discover.
Nonetheless, it is a very clever concept and is a really cool piece of living artwork designed in 1993 by Israeli artist Ran Morin.
Suspended via two chain wires, only a foot or so off the ground, this orange tree is growing out of a walnut-shaped earthenware receptacle and fed via a drip.
Firstly, it is a genuine living tree. Secondly, it does produce fruit in the form of the famous Jaffa orange.
Just don't pick the fruit, people love to see it.
Relax on the Beach
- Why: Sometimes, you just need to sit and relax in the sand or dip your toes in the warm Mediterranean Sea.
- Where: Ummmmmm, next to the sea... (map)
- How long: How long do you need? If you have the time, spend a day. If you only have a short stay in Tel Aviv, then a couple of hours.
- How much: Again, it's that magical word when travelling: Free.
Whilst there are many coves, the beach feels like a singular length of sand that runs the length of Tel Aviv. With crisp golden yellow sands and warm waters, it's the perfect place to relax, retreat away from the city and get a tan.
Furthermore, with the sun beaming down and the wind blowing in from Europe and the northern coast of Africa, the beaches of Tel Aviv are perfect for kite and windsurfers alike.
You'll see plenty of them gliding off the surface into the air. It's like a wildlife documentary following a flock of birds flying off together and dancing across the sky.
If beach sports are your thing, but kitesurfing sounds a tad too extreme, how about volleyball or something a little closer to the sands?
Whatever you enjoy about a beach, you'll have it in abundance here.
Enjoy.
Spend the Day Exploring Jaffa
- Why: Honestly, it's the best part of the city. There's culture, history, and architecture. Plus, it's the best place to watch the sunset.
- Where: On the coast south of the city. Look out for the clock tower. (map)
- How long: Spend as much time as you can in the magic of Jaffa.
- How much: Walking and exploring the beautiful narrow streets is free, but when you inevitably stop to shop or to grab a drink, well...
Hidden within these ancient walls is everything good within Tel Aviv.
There are authentic foods, including the award-winning Hummus Abu Hassan, lively drinking areas and flea markets that run throughout the streets. Colour and beauty don the walls whilst laughter and enjoyment fill every enclosed walkway. You can't help but feel affection and love for the area.
Similarly, Jaffa has magnificent churches, breathtaking parks with views over the north of the city, and that cheeky suspended orange tree.
Of course, Jaffa is also the best place in the city to catch the sunset as the sun sinks over the glistening Mediterranean Sea.
To say you've experienced Tel Aviv like a local, you must have spent time in Jaffa. Simple as.
Pick up a Treat at the Carmel Market
- Why: Sticky treats, delicious dishes and fresh fruits are everywhere. And you'll find some cracking souvenirs.
- Where: There are numerous markets, but Carmel Market is located east of Aviv Beach. (map)
- How long: Take some time out for lunch too. So, say, a couple of hours.
- How much: Looking is free, but purchasing the best treats in Tel Aviv like a local, well, that depends on your haggling skills.
As with any market in the Middle East, you're guaranteed a few things: Bright lights, Fresh juicy fruits, gigantic vegetables, sticky and delicious treats, lots of noise and an array of smells attacking the nostrils.
It's sensory overload but in a good way.
With so many things to distract you, you will come out of the Carmel Markets with something you neither wanted nor needed. But, hey, it will be worth it.
It is busy, loud, fun and hectic all at the same time.
But... if it all gets a bit too stressful, Carmel Market's hidden bars will help you out. Take the weight off your feet and relax with a cocktail or cold beer.
Discover the Funky Street Art
- Why: Such skill and craftsmanship deserve your attention.
- Where: These engaging artworks are found all over the city.
- How long: You could lose a half day if you wanted. But the best thing to do is discover them as you go.
- How much: You know the answer, it's free.
As within Haifa, Tel Aviv is alive with bold artworks strewn across the city from the beach fronts to the airport and from Jaffa to the Sarona Markets in the north.
While it may not all be to your taste, as quite frankly, some of it is very 'out there', weird and wonderful, some will be. You'll discover all types of collages, graffiti and urban art, ranging from colourful dogs hidden in the reeds to portraits of couples and bizarre half dog half human figures...
Whilst I haven't seen it all, I'm told the best artwork is found in the Jaffa, Neve Tzedek and Florentin districts.
Please tell me what you think in the comments below. I'm intrigued.
Where to Eat When Visiting Tel Aviv
Food in Israel blew me away. It's full of flavour, colour and more textures than a piece of sandpaper.
However, out of everywhere I visited in Israel and Palestine, I found it harder to find the best food in Tel Aviv as the city is so much bigger, and the food places are more widespread.
Nevertheless, there are unquestionably great places to eat. Little gems are hidden within the city. You merely have to look for them.
That said, there's one place I'll tell everyone to visit. A place that defines the reasoning behind this blog title. If you want to know how to do Tel Aviv like a local, you must eat at Hummus Abu Hassan.
Likewise, to become a true local in Tel Aviv, you should eat at the markets. Locals buy their daily foods here and use the ingredients in almost every dish, be it spices, meats, fruit or veg.
Lastly, a quick shout-out to food hygiene. Be it eating in restaurants or the markets, you do not need to worry about food poisoning or health issues. Food hygiene and cleanliness in Tel Aviv are superb, and I highly recommend you give anything that takes your fancy a go.
So, let's dive into my three very different choices for food places in Tel Aviv.
Hummus Abu Hassan
- What: Hummus specialists and possibly, the best in Israel.
- Where: On the southern fringes of Jaffa Port. (map)
- How much: Two incredible bowls of hummus, a couple of soft drinks and more pitta bread you can eat will cost about 60โช (ยฃ13).
Possibly the best hummus in Israel... But there's more to it than that. It's also the craziest eating experience you'll have in Israel.
Whether you grab a takeaway or eat in, you are in for a flavoursome treat. Although, for the complete Hummus Abu Hassan experience, I suggest eating in.
It's only a small restaurant, and the place is packed with locals. Hence firstly, the long wait, and secondly, why, if you don't eat here, you haven't done Tel Aviv like a local.
Inside, it's fast-paced. The team run around the restaurant shouting and screaming as food is flung onto the table and heads hit the bowls of pure perfection like a zoo feeding frenzy. With a handful of differing hummus dishes, onions and flatbreads, all you have to do, is choose which ones you want and join the crowds with their heads in the bowls.
The textures, the insane flavours and the delicious tastes are all there in one bowl, just waiting for you to mop them up with your bread. Whilst the food assumes centre stage, it's fair to say the whole experience is mesmerising. After eating, I left, sat down, and all I could do was laugh.
Magical.
Sarona Market
- What: Stunning indoor market.
- Where: In the north of the city east of the Habima Theatre. (map)
- How much: That depends on what and where you eat.
If indoor markets are your thing, then look no further than Sarona.
Firstly, you'll notice how picturesque and captivating the market is. With gorgeous lighting, artwork and style throughout, not to mention a European street vibe, you could easily forget you're in Tel Aviv.
Secondly, the blended aroma of all things Middle Eastern, burgers and delicious desserts hits your nostrils and sends you into a dreamy daze. You could be forgiven for thinking you've died and gone to heaven - well, if heaven was somewhere near Barcelona. You haven't!
All you have to do is decide what stall to eat from, grab a drink and slide into a delicious food coma.
Beit Kandinof
- What: Incredibly posh restaurant with a decent ambience.
- Where: Just down the road from the Suspended Orange Tree in Jaffa.ย (map)
- How much: Well, this one isn't for backpackers. Four of us ate here, and it came to 850โช (ยฃ186). (menu)
Honestly, I am throwing this one in as a wild card.
Firstly because it's so expensive, it simply isn't feasible or realistic for most backpackers. Secondly, it wasn't anywhere near my top meals in Israel. In fact, it was pretty close to the bottom.
So why am I giving it a mention?
Well! In truth, I am not a Michelin Star kind of guy and don't like fine dining. Therefore, that might be what put me off.
Nevertheless, if you are the type of person who enjoys that style of dining, you will probably love it here. The ambience, the setting and the design are exquisite, the service is impeccable, and the wine is fantastic.
The food, whilst not to my liking, was full of flavour and well presented. I couldn't fault it, I just wanted more, and if the markets were still open, I would have grabbed a shawarma on the way home.
Where to Party Whilst Exploring Tel Aviv
The nightlife was one of the things that shocked me most in Israel. Where ever and whenever you go out, you will find ravers throwing back alcohol like it's going out of fashion.
In Tel Aviv, things are no different. Hence, if you are looking for a party - you'll find one.
However, the best areas for a party in Tel Aviv were either around the Flea Market in Jaffa, the area around Lilienblum Street and Levontin Street, all the way down Allenby Street, then again north, around King George Street.
Although, a night out in Tel Aviv doesn't always have to go crazy. You can also enjoy a quiet beer watching the sunset or a couple of cocktails, enjoying a game of draughts.
Yet with all the local classics like Arak, Limonana and a pint of Goldstar, any night has the potential to end on the dancefloor smashed off your tits.
But fear not. Tel Aviv is safe and busy enough to let your hair down on a night out.
ืงืคื ืืกืื
- What:ย Small bar cosy bar with cosy outdoor seating
- Where: On Jaffa Port. (map)
If loud and bruising bars aren't your thing and you prefer a more chilled and relaxed vibe listening to the sound of the sea, then ืงืคื ืืกืื is for you.
Down in Jaffa Port, this beautiful yet small coffee shop masks as a stylish yet underrated boozer. Whilst you could, and should, relax here with a pastry and a coffee in the midday sun, it's also too easy to fall into a dream-like state with a beer.
Grab a bottle or two, layout on the decking and watch the sun go down. Alternatively, you can do Tel Aviv like a local and lay there with an Aperol Spritz. It seems to be the thing to do.
Whatever your preference, you'll enjoy a cold one here.
Chepe
- What:ย Small beer hall that packs a punch.
- Where: On the corner of Ami'ad Street and Rabi Khanina Street near Jaffa's flea market. (map)
Right in the heart of Jaffa's fun zone, this small beer hall spreads onto the street with views over the flea market.
Stiens are the name of the game and pissed, will, more than likely, be the result. It's loud, in your face and fun.
With attentive, friendly staff, delicious beers and fantastic snacks, this is a must on your quest to do Tel Aviv like a local.
Furthermore, surrounding Chepe are numerous other delightful bars and restaurants, and the atmosphere runs throughout. Grab a seat and drink into the early hours, making friends with everyone around. You'll surely love it.
Allenby Street and the Carmel Market
- What: Allenby Street and the Carmel market have a mix of trendy wine bars and cheap beer halls. Try them all.
- Where: Well, Allenby Street and down to the Carmel Market... (map)
My first experience of Israel was walking down Allenby Street to my accommodation by the Carmel Market.
It's fair to say I was shocked.
Every ten meters was a bar, and they were all rammed. Laughter and joy screamed from each one, and if I hadn't had my bag on my back and spent twenty-four hours on the road, I would have joined them.
I never expected Israel to have such a wild nightlife, especially as it was gone eleven o'clock on a Thursday night.
Whilst quieter, even the Carmel Market has several little bars you can sit, chat and relax with a refreshing beer, cocktail or glass of wine.
The area is lively and awaiting your visit. Although, you will find it tough to choose which bar to visit first.
Is it Safe to Visit Tel Aviv?
If I had written this the week I returned from my trip in January 2023, I'd have said yes. On the whole, Tel Aviv is a safe place to visit.
Terrorism and Political Safety
However, since my return, protests have run through the streets, terror attacks, and other less desirable events have all caused me to rethink my decision.
And, I think that tells a story, not just for Tel Aviv, but Israel as a whole.
Ninety-five per cent of the time, Tel Aviv is a safe city to visit and is, by far, one of the safest in Israel.
However, it's the five per cent that causes the ninety-five per cent to feel edgy. Whilst you feel safe and like you're in Europe, there is an edge to life that instantly reminds you that you're not.
Besides, if you didn't feel it, the occasional missile sirens overhead soon send a reminder.
Yet, it's not that that makes you feel on guard. It's the irregularity and random timings of the five per cent. There isn't always a reason for it, and that is what plays on your mind.
Whilst things can kick off at a moment's notice, it shouldn't deter you from visiting Tel Aviv. The chances of getting caught in something are exceedingly slim. And in truth, you forget about safety whilst you're there, which I guess goes to show it is actually safe.
Other Safty in Tel Aviv
Outside of Terrorism and political causes, Tel Aviv is a safe city, even at night. Compared with other major cities and those of a similar size, Tel Aviv performs well on all fronts.
Although, the area around the central bus station and Tel Aviv Ha'Hagana is considered a bit menacing. When I told an old local man at the train station I was walking, he wanted to escort me through that area. Once you're away from that zone, you'll notice how lively the city is, and there are people everywhere twenty-four-seven. Therefore, it's super safe.
Frankly, I felt the most significant safety concern was diving out of the way of the electric scooters on the promenade. You only know they're coming when you hear the last-ditch squeal coming from their out-of-control rider.
Leave a comment
Thanks for reading my How to do Tel Aviv like a local blog. Together we have explored the old and the new on offer and how to make the best of your time here.
As you may have gathered, I wasn't overly keen on Tel Aviv, but there are many reasons to visit. For me, Jaffa is the highlight of Tel Aviv and offers much more than the rest of the city. Nevertheless, on my next visit to Israel, I'd only spend two days here and visit other parts of the country.
As always, I love to hear what you think of a) my blog and b) your experience in the city, so please drop me a comment below. Again, if you have further questions or think I've forgotten something, add them to your comments. Similarly, you can always DM me on Insta and don't forget to drop me a follow too.
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