Brighton, England - A Travel Guide
Last Updated: February 26, 2025
QUICK LINKS TO BACKPACKING BRIGHTON
ABOUT BRIGHTON | SHOULD I GO? | WHAT TO DO | WHERE TO STAY | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO PARTY
Heads up: We sometimes work with companies to provide affiliate links and reviews - here's what that means. If it's here, we use it. We don't plug shit for profit.
Come and Try Your Luck On The Pier
Brighton is a popular tourist destination on the southeast coast of England, less than 2 hours’ drive from the centre of London. The town officially lies in the city of Brighton and Hove and is known worldwide thanks to the pier that opened at the end of the 1800s. The pier now holds games, roller coasters, log flumes, arcades and food stalls, making it one of the most popular UK destinations outside of London.
There is, however, far more to this town than the pier; the pebbled beach stretches into the sunset, passing the burnt-out frame of the old pier as you head west from the pier we know and love today. One thing you may think of when you think of Brighton will be the blue and white striped deckchairs upon the pebbled beach, with the row of colourful beach huts in the background. They still exist today and make for a wonderful beach selfie.
Off the beach, the rest of the town is not left behind, with stunning quirky unique shops lost within the maze that is The Lanes, the wonderful shopping area with several places to find a bite to eat and rest those tired feet.
The town is also a prominent destination for LGBT followers from around the UK, earning the town the unofficial title of ‘The Gay Capital of England’, and naturally holds one of the biggest gay pride carnivals in the UK.
My Brighton Weekender
Whilst most people who visit Brighton visit on days trips, I thought I would head down for a long weekend with my friend Laura, and I am so pleased I did. There was far more to do in this town than I expected and one day just wouldn’t have been enough.
We stayed on the seafront in Queens Hotel, which was perfectly placed for all the attractions, and even looks out on to the pier from some of the rooms. We arrived late on a Friday, dumped our luggage, and headed down to the bar for a few cocktails. Which turned into a big night.
The following day we checked out the pier, losing a bit of money in the arcades and enjoying the rides at the end. Having then visited friends for lunch back inland, we stopped off at a few bars on the way back to the beach.
Once we had chilled on the beach we dove into The Lanes, shopping around for gifts and exciting boutique memorabilia. As the evening drew is slowly we headed up the big 360-degree tower (which was actually good fun), before starting our quest to find the best drinks in town.
The following morning we went back to The Lanes, followed by a tour of the Royal Pavilion and then finding out what the fuss was with ChoccyWoccyDoodah. Having consumed more chocolate than we ever thought possible, we walked it off paddling in the English Chanel before playing a round or two of crazy golf on the seafront. The night was followed with more great food and drinks as we continued our exploration of the bars of Brighton, and headed home the next morning.
Should I Go There?
This is a tricky one to answer, so... yes and no.
Whilst I did have a great time, found some lovely bars, some great, unique little areas and had fun on the pier, it was just lacking something. It didn’t have the vibe I was expecting, whilst still being perfectly lovely. I can't say it’s not worth visiting because it is, but go with expectations of fake excitement and be prepared to spend a bit of money around the town.
I would go back, but there are many other places I'd go back to over Brighton. I knew prior to arrival that the beach was the pebbled jewel in the crown, but still hoped in some weird way that it would at least be comfortable, which it wasn’t. In many ways Brighton is similar to its football team: it’s in the right league, but will never challenge for the top spot in the country.
What to do when Backpacking Brighton
Brighton is a busy town, with a lot going on and things to see and do at every street corner. Most people automatically think of the beach and the pier, but if you delve into the town there are some treats to be found. Having said that, guess what my first choice of topic is here...
The Pier
We had to start with the most famous thing in the town, and that is Brighton Palace Pier. Built in 1899, this 525-metre boardwalk encompasses enough activities to please anyone of any age. The far end of the pier has several roller-coasters, and also my firm favourite: the log flume.
It really was amazing to see what could be achieved on a little structure jettying out over the sea. Coming back slowly to land, you will pass little restaurants and cafes on either side of the pier where you can get hotdogs, pizza, fish and chips, doughnuts, cakes and much more. As you continue your way back to Brighton down the pier you will pass through the main building that houses the arcades and amusements.
There is something for you all, including that typically British 2p slot machine. The whole pier is an explosion of entertainment, but in parts is exactly what is wrong with Brighton: yes, it’s fun, yes, it’s loud, but it all just seems a little fake and fabricated.
The Beach
Brighton Beach, famed for its deckchairs, colourful beach huts and pebbles, stretches as far as the eye can see. The English Channel attacks from the south, shaping the pebbles as it tosses them over the shoreline.
Whilst impressive and nice to look at, it is not the most comfortable to relax and soak up the sunrays, nor is it the best for a little paddle. That's the biggest shame about the town: whilst it is doing well and attracts millions of visitors each year, it would be so much better if the beach was sand.
BA i360
One of my two main highlights of the town is the British Airways i360. It costs £14.85 for adults and is well worth doing. The whole experience was a good laugh, and unsurprisingly it starts almost like getting a flight. Upon arrival, you get searched, followed by a bags search, before you move through to the waiting area (a bunch of deckchairs overlooking the beach) as the other passengers get checked in.
Once everyone has checked in, you board the flight deck and the revolving glass structure slowly rises 450 feet up over Brighton, giving you commanding views over the town (and half the south coast).
Once you land, you arrive in the gift shop and restaurant which are both nice, if a little pricey (the airport comparison continues...). Overall the trip was brilliant, the only complaint really was that it was over too soon.
You do not have to book in advance and can queue on the promenade. However, you could be queuing for a while, especially during the summer. If you book a time slot in advance (only a day prior) then you will skip the queue and go straight to the front, which most people now do.
ChoccyWoccyDoodah
Nestled in the middle of The Lanes there is one name that shines greater than any other. One shop you cannot pass without going in. And that is ChoccyWoccyDoodah. Everything is chocolate of all types, sizes, and colours.
The window displays are chocolatiering at its finest and upon entering the little store you find delights all around you. If you love chocolate, enjoy it from time to time, or even think it’s kinda-alright-but-I-prefer-crisps, then I challenge you to enter without buying anything.
The store is very small, as are most of the shops in the Lanes, but you really can not miss it. Upstairs is a little café, which again is very small and can only cater for around 25 people. It is a very well known café and is often full, so it is pot luck as to your timing. I tried to book but was told they don’t do bookings, so unless things have changed it really is about hanging around as long as you can to get a table.
The cakes are delicious and the hot chocolates are to die for. The portion size was brilliant too, and by the end of it even I didn’t want to look at any more chocolate for a week. This was probably the highlight of Brighton and something I recommend highly.
The Lanes
Whether you are a shopper or not, the Lanes is a pleasant place to wander and check out the boutique shops bordering the narrow pathways. You will find some amazing stores as you get totally lost, ending up back in the same place you started without realising it. There are also lovely cafes, bars, and pubs hidden within the Lanes, as well as the above ChoccyWoccyDoodah
Royal Pavilion
The Royal Pavillion is one of the most peculiar properties I have ever looked around. Whilst stunningly well-designed and made from the outside - it looks as if it had come straight from India - the inside is disappointing and bare. The walls and ceilings are phenomenal and well maintained, but the furniture is not all authentic, and a lot of the rooms are bare. Weird.
From the pavements, the house looks to be on a grand scale, but the tour only visits a small percentage of it, making me wonder what is being hidden in the rest of the house.
The grounds themselves are well maintained: colourful, beautiful and a pleasure to be in, however as soon as you enter the building things change. The first thing that changes is the cost. The grounds are free, but to enter the house and walk around with an earpiece will set you back a staggering £12-£13 online and more on the door. Overall I wish I had ignored the advice sites and saved the money for a meal out. I would have been just as happy in the amazing gardens, which is how I recommend you enjoy this architectural anomaly.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking Brighton
Whilst most visitors come to Brighton on a day trip, there are more than enough who stay overnight. This means the town is awash with hotels, B&Bs and hostels alike. I don’t know too much about accommodation in the town, but what we can talk about is Queens Hotel on the seafront.
Queens was built in 1846 and over the years has altered to what we see today, with the last major change taking place in 1908. Queens is a large hotel with not only views of the sea but the stunning Brighton Palace Pier, making it a firm favourite with visitors.
Whilst I agree it cannot be beaten on location and is extremely friendly, warm and wonderful, I don’t think any part of the hotel has been decorated since 1908, or maybe even prior to that. However, whilst the décor triggered the immediate thought of “Oh god, what have we done?”, we came to love it. Everything from the rooms, the décor, the lifts all were dated but it didn’t matter, it was cosy and comfortable.
The facilities were top-notch, with a small but lovely pool, gym, spa and much more, everyone did what they could to enhance your stay and the bar staff certainly know how to make a great cocktail. The hotel also let us order in takeaway food after a few too many cocktails, which is something that seems to happen to us a lot and always appreciated! The only downside facility-wise was there was no parking, meaning you have to pay the expensive city car parking rates up the road. The cost wasn’t too bad at £90 per night for 2 nights.
As always in Europe, our usual caveats apply of checking Airbnb and Hostelworld, particularly if you're in a group or travelling alone, respectively. Whatever you spring for, aim to be as close to the pier as possible.
Where to Eat When Backpacking Brighton
There are a number of fantastic locations to chose from within Brighton, showcasing cuisines from all over the world. We found a couple of lovely places (ignoring the drunken Dominos we ordered to the hotel room!).
The first couple of recommendations I just can't let you miss, and they are first to simply get a bag of fish and chips from the seafront, and walk up to the pier to eat them. It doesn’t get much more British, authentic, and in a weird way romantic, than that. I know it may not be what you expected me to start with - or even mention - but it has to be done.
The second I have already mentioned, and that is ChoccyWoccyDoodah. Whilst not perfect for the main meal, it is somewhere I had to mention within the food section of the blog. Try and get a table, and enjoy a slice of heaven and a hot chocolate drink. It really is the best part of Brighton.
Next, Olive Grove is located deep in the Lanes and is a lovely restaurant. The little courtyard reminded me of being on a Spanish island with its terracotta pots, roof tiles, and the beautifully designed building. There wasn’t one thing I could fault about the restaurant. It looked amazing, the staff were fantastic and the food was sublime. It was so good we nearly went back a few times, but felt we should explore a few other locations (We've got a travel blog to write, after all! The sacrifices we make... - Charlie). If the sun is out and you would like a great meal, try this place and sit out in the courtyard to gather the full experience.
The next restaurant we found was just as glorious, called Il Bistro. We ate a fantastic 2-course meal with a couple of friends, washed down with a couple of bottles of wine between us. I had chicken in some sort of delicious sauce accompanied by rice, which was just what I needed after a fantastic chorizo sausage starter. Again the whole ambience was brilliant, the staff worked hard and with a smile, and everything about this restaurant was stunning. It came to about £35 per head (remember the several bottles of wine...), and for what you get, I say it was worth every penny.
Where to Drink and Party when Backpacking Brighton
Brighton has a vast number of bars and clubs that cater to all styles of alcohol, music, dance, and everything else you want on a night out. During our time in Brighton we checked out a lot of these places, and here's the ones that stick out in my mind.
The first one I have to mention is The Cocktail Shack, which does by far the best cocktails in town. Located on Regency Square opposite the BA i360 tower (a handy meeting point), this wonderful little place blends in with the buildings around it. You wouldn’t even know it was there until you step inside to the quirky little bar and seating areas.
The cocktails are made to perfection and the staff’s knowledge is amazing. They really have gone all out to give you a beach-themed feel, which we all know makes that cocktail feel even more special. In Jan 2019 it looks like the bar has been taken over by The Set but I really hope they keep things as they are, and don’t bring in any changes. We will keep an eye on this for you - if you guys have been put your thoughts in the comments!
A little out of town (15-ish minutes walk) is Good Companions. Now, there wasn’t anything extraordinary about the place, but what I liked was it wasn’t trying to be extraordinary. It did everything efficiently, with a smile, served good beers and wines and is a testament to what can be achieved by just doing the basics well. The staff were always happy to help and chat as you drank (probably boring them to death in my case), but overall it was just a good pub, a good atmosphere and everything you want a pub to be. It was worth a mention.
East Street Tap is an alternative pub which had a very quirky refit. I'll be the first to say it's not my style, but it all worked. We were able to sit in the bay windows upstairs and relax with a bottle of wine looking down on the passers-by. I think the place had a great feel to it and was like nowhere else I had been (which is pretty impressive on its own). I also loved the music choices.
There are a vast number of pubs within the Lanes that are worth checking out, and whilst we stopped briefly a number of them, they all felt exactly the same and pretty much sum up the town. They were all furnished in the same old English pub style with no real modern-day tint to them. Whilst that is nice to an extent, when every pub is the same and none of them appeared to have a different feel, it got a bit samey. The pubs and the town can be summed up in the words ‘old-school’, ‘old-fashioned’, or ‘dated’, depending on how nice you're feeling. There is nothing wrong with this but when everywhere has that look, you crave for some modernism.
What You'll Need to Blend In
To be romantic about the 'old days'
A liberal attitude
A pocket full of 2p coins
A vintage car
