Backpacking Bedugul, Bali in 24 Hours
Last Updated: February 2, 2025
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HOW TO GET HERE | WHERE TO STAY | THINGS TO DO | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO PARTY | STAYING SAFE
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Exploring Bali's Wilder North
Sick of the crowds down south? Want to see the 'real' Bali?
Try a day or two backpacking Bedugul!
Bedugul is Bali's leafy, pristine north. Swathes of trees cascade from mountain ridges to lake shores, untouched by human hands, until they meet Danau Beratan, home of the famous 'Temple on the Lake', and the simple, charming villages of Bedugul.
As of right now, it's peaceful, and brilliantly, naturally beautiful.
But it's getting busier!
You can see commercialism is just starting to grip the area, and that's usually where things start to go wrong. For now, Bedugul is a gorgeous, natural place, and you need to see it before it's swallowed up.
So, before we dive in, a quick word: to preserve Bedugul's beauty, please travel ethically! Support the locals, and leave no trace. There's nothing more bleak than watching a monkey drink Coke from a plastic bottle. If you're the sort of asshole that leaves a trail of litter and destruction behind you, stay the fuck away from Bedugul.
This good news is that backpacking Bedugul is still all about traditional towns, clean air, thunderous waterfalls, vast rice terraces, lush jungle, and shimmering mountain lakes, all just waiting to be discovered.
Long may it continue!
I was a tour guide in Bali for seven months, and, on my days off, I took a handful of trips from Canggu to visit Bedugul, to discover the best of Bali's wilder north.
Here's how to do it!
What's Bedugul Like?
In three words? Authenticity, landscapes, wilderness.
Bedugul is mostly farmland, with isolated clusters of buildings scattered along mismatched roads making up 'villages'.
The town itself sits between the twin shores of Danau Beratan and Danau Buyan. 'Danau' means 'lake' in Balinese, if you were wondering, and are often just called Bratan Lake and Buyan Lake. And they are the focal point of any trip to Bedugul.
You'll be arriving via road, weaving your way gradually uphill through an ocean of green, randomly punctuated by small, rural villages and fruit vendors.
The forest eventually yields to the town of Bedugul, and it's... really more of what you've seen on the way: simple, rustic charm.
It's authentic. Very little of the town is geared towards tourism. It's like dropping into another world if you've come from Bali's bustling south. In Bedugul, you can sample a more traditional Balinese way of life, which revolves around small markets, rice terraces, and temples cast along the banks of those huge mountain lakes.
Once you've seen the town, everything else 'touristy' in the area revolves around these lakes; be it looking down on them, relaxing alongside them, or seeing the waterfalls that feed them.
Backpacking Bedugul is a chance to jump back 30 years, and discover what made Bali so popular in the first place.
How to Get to Bedugul
There's only one real answer: road.
Bedugul sits along on a single, arterial road that connects the north and south of the island, and it runs through the heart of the main town.
The easiest way to get to Bedugul is from Ubud or Canggu. Both are around a 1-hour, 20-minute drive, depending on Bali's notoriously unpredictable roads.
Buses
I don't suggest getting a bus. Here's why.
There is a single bus, operated by Perama Tour, that travels to Bedugul from Kuta (150k IDR/£7.50, at 7am), via Ubud (100k IDR/£5, at 8.30am), once a day. It arrives in Bedugul around 10.
Strangely, you can't just catch this bus, you need to book by 3pm the day before. And, for some reason, you have to book at least 2 seats.
So apparently fuck you, solo travellers!
In addition, the only return bus leaves at 1.30pm, so unless you're staying overnight, this one is out.
This leaves you with two options: bike hire, or a private driver.
Bikes
Motorbike hire is available from any of the southern towns, and they're dirt cheap - as is the petrol.
You'll be looking at around 150k IDR/day (£7.50, less if you haggle!), plus fuel. This is your cheapest option available, particularly if you're comfortable with two riders on one bike.
Cars
If you ask me, it's private drivers all the way!
This can mean taxis, but by far the best way is to just ask around, particularly at your accommodation. I guarantee someone will have a friend, relative, or dog willing to drive you, and it'll be way cheaper than a taxi.
You can pay for a one-way trip, but if you're doing a day-trip to Bedugul, it makes more sense to hire a driver for the day. This'll set you back around 500k IDR (£25), but, again, depends wildly on your haggling skills. If there's a few of you, this is the way to go.
Finally, if you've been dropped off in Bedugul, and need a way to get around, there's always Grab or Gojek, ride-hailing services extraordinaire. They're Indonesia's answer to Uber.
Or, you can always just talk loudly in a cafe or bar about how you simply need to get somewhere, and a horde of potential drivers will materialise around you, like traffic genies.
So get summoning!
Timing Your Trip
How Long Should You Spend Backpacking Bedugul?
I'll be honest: there are not all that many things to do in Bedugul. After all, you can only look at those breathtaking vistas for so long!
Therefore, I'd suggest either a day trip, or a one-night stay.
Everything on our Bedugul itinerary can be done comfortably in a day, and doesn't feel rushed.
That said, if you want to take things slower and get away from Bali's touristy south for a few days, crack on! Book a few nights. I couldn't blame you, and this is the place to do it.
This comes with a single caveat: if your time in Bali is limited, don't let Bedugul take a huge chunk out of your schedule. You'll get more out of a few extra nights in, say, Ubud, or a quick trip over to the Nusa Islands.
The Best Time Of The Year For Backpacking Bedugul
If you've been reading our other Indonesia blogs, say it with me:
Avoid monsoon season!
For the uninitiated, that means avoid November through March. During this period, the whole of Bali becomes a paddling pool, and basically just sucks. Unless you have a thing for tropical storms.
But you're here for beautiful sights and baller weather, right?!
Well, the rest of the year is fair game. The skies clear up, you can see further, and, best of all, you still pretty much have the whole town to yourself!
Backpacking Bedugul isn't popular enough (yet) for it to get busy. There'll be a few people around that lake temple, but otherwise? It's all yours.
Enjoy.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking Bedugul
So... yeah, I didn't actually stay in Bedugul. I took day trips from Canggu.
At Far Out, we make a point of only recommending places we've stayed at... and we haven't. Which keeps this section short.
So, instead of leaving this empty, or bullshitting you about the 10 Best Places To Stay in Bedugul! or whatever, we'd rather give you the tools we use to find the best places to stay, and let you take it from there.
I mean, we did still get you here! It's in your hands now.
So here's a guide to finding the best accommodation anywhere in the world, and here's the best places to find it:
If you aim between Lake Bratan and Lake Buyan, you won't go too far wrong!
Note: Hostelworld is drawing a big fat blank for Bedugul at the time of writing - which kinda attests to how off-the-beaten-track it still is.
I'd expect this to change in the near future though, as Bedugul becomes better known.
Things to do when Backpacking Bedugul
I present: the perfect one-day Bedugul itinerary!
As mentioned, backpacking Bedugul in a day relies on you having transport. Everything is way too far to walk. This is gonna be either motorbikes, or a private driver.
If you've got this, the world is yours! Or Bedugul, at least...
So here goes!
Backpacking Bedugul: The One-Day Play
Do we mean how you're gonna play things, or a day of playing about?
We'll never tell! But this is the best way to set out your day:
- Meander the Market
- Explore Ulun Danu Beratan - The 'Lake Temple'
- Snap a shot at Bali Handra Gate
- Pick Strawberries Around the Lake (if in season)
- Visit a Village Temple
- Play at Wanagiri Hidden Hills
- Splash in the Twin Falls
Don't forget to grab some lunch (here's a few suggestions) at some point! I'd suggest either before or after Wanagiri - trust your gut! If more than one cafe catches your eye, head back for an early dinner after the falls.
For this Bedugul itinerary, we're assuming you're arriving in town at around 9.30 - that means leaving Ubud or Canggu at around 8. Trust me, it's worth it!
If you're staying overnight, take it even easier! There's always tomorrow. Mañana, mañana...
One: Meander the Market
- Why: It's the soul of the town, and a good spot for brekky.
- Where: The Traditional Market to the southwest of Danau Beratan, 5 minutes drive from the Bedugul lake temple. (map)
- How long: It's not massive, half an hour should do it.
- How much: Free to wander around, but buying shit is extra... unless you're quick on your feet! (Don't actually do this.)
If you're still a bit sleepy, this'll sort you right out!
The hustle and bustle will have your ears twitching, and your mouth watering as you taste the spices in the air. This is what a real, authentic market looks like.
For a bit of breakfast, just follow your nose!
You'll find a couple of trinkets and shirts lying around, but honestly, this market is here for the locals, not you.
Instead of the clichéd, touristy cock-shaped bottle openers (I have four, please stop sending them) you'll find in Kuta, this is wall-to-wall flowers, foods, spices and kitchenware - everything you need to cook a solid meal and sort your daily prayer offering.
It's vibrant, and very alive, but it's also friendly! No pushiness, no pressure to buy. Their English is solid, and they want you to pick stuff up, check it out, and they'll tell you the best ways to use it. They want you to learn something too.
Just as well there's no bottle openers here!
Also, being a traditional Balinese town, this is the perfect place to get your haggle on.
Two: Explore Ulun Danu Beratan - The 'Lake Temple'
- Why: It's one of the most sacred (and prettiest!) sites in Bali, home to six separate temples.
- Where: On the banks of Bratan Lake, in the middle of Bedugul. (map)
- How long: Call it an hour to have look around, and get your photos.
- How much: 75k IDR (just under £4) for entry.
You may well recognise this temple - it's probably the most photographed on Bali.
Yet no one ever seems to know where it is!
Well, it's here in Bedugul. It's called 'Lingga Petak', and it's one of six temples in the Ulun Danu Beratan complex.
You're welcome.
The temple is spectacular, but what I remember the most is just how immaculate the whole site is.
Passing through the gate, you enter one of the most pristine gardens I've ever seen. It makes Chelsea Flower Show look like a bog. The Balinese have a huge sense of pride and tidiness with their temples, but this is another level. If a blade of grass was too tall, someone would be on it with a ruler and a pair of scissors within the hour.
Despite being the busiest tourist spot in Bedugul, you could hear a pin drop. It's a calming place to be, pacing serenely through the gardens to look at the five Hindu and one Buddhist temples. Not forgetting the angry goat that doesn't care much for people.
You're getting here early enough that there should still be an ethereal morning mist floating over the lake. This makes for a very mystical, eerie photo. Stick around to watch it clear and reveal the mountains behind.
Three: Snap a Shot at Bali Handara Gate
- Why: Because have you really been to Bali if you don't have the cliché photos to prove it?
- Where: On the main road through the town. (map)
- How long: However long it takes you to get the shot. 5 minutes?
- How much: Even though it's a gate on a main road, they will try and charge you for a photo. Tell them to suck it.
There's no nice way to tell you this... It's just the entrance to a golf course.
Not an ancient monument, no. Just a golf course. It's only sacred if you're Tiger Woods.
This is another classic Bali photo, but, again, people don't seem to know where to go to get it.
Well, it's easy to find! If you're here in the morning, you should still catch the last of that misty haze in the air as well.
However, the true arseache is the security in front of the gate, who try to stop anyone getting a 'free' photo.
This is a matter of principle. If something is visible from a public road, taking a photo of it should be free. If you want to get a photo of someone standing in the gate, then that's private land, and paying is fair. But a photo from the street? Nah.
So, here's how to get that shot for free!
There's a lay-by next to the entrance. Get your driver to pull in there, and you can quickly jump out and snap away. You should have a minute or two before the guards run the distance over to you. The pro move is to wait for an unsuspecting tourist to run the gauntlet, get caught, and then you lep out whilst the guards are busy fleecing that sucker.
When they notice you, you can either stay and argue with them, or jump back in the car, wave, and evil-laugh as you drive off into the sunset, you meddling kids!
Four: Pick Strawberries Around the Lake (if in season)
- Why: Because this blog is British. And they're delicious!
- Where: There's dozens of farms in and around town - I suggest speaking with the lady running the strawberry stand around here.
- How long: Half-hour should be plenty.
- How much: Next to nothing, they're so cheap!
Who knew, right?!
Turns out Bedugul is the only region in Bali cool and humid enough to grow strawberries. So, when in Rome...
You'll know if they're in season, because the fruit stalls across town are lined with red, and they're just divine. June and July seems to be the sweet spot for ripeness.
I've suggested this particular place because the woman was lovely, and it's bang en-route to our next escapade.
Rock up, say you want to pick some strawberries, and you'll be led to the fields and given a basket to fill. They'll be weighed out, you pay, and then you can stuff your face.
Make sure you hang on to some (or, more realistically, just pick extra), and take them back to the south of the island tonight. Pick up a jar of Nutella in a supermarket, and you'll suddenly be everyone's best friend that night.
Five: Visit a Village Temple
- Why: Because backpacking Bedugul is about experiencing local life.
- Where: We're aiming for Pura Ulun Danu Buyan, on Bedugul's western lake, Danau Buyan. (map)
- How long: Half an hour for a leisurely look-around the temple and lake shore.
- How much: Free.
This one isn't going to bowl you over. It's just a village temple. You'll see hundreds like it coursing through Bali.
So why have we brought you here?
Well: it's next to the strawberry farm, it's a small detour on the way to Wanagiri, there's cracking lakeside views, and there's no tourists (unless they've all read this blog!).
But really, it's just because it feels genuine.
There's no charades for visitors, it's simply a place of worship. It's a prime example of the authenticity that separates Bedugul from the south. And, because of that, it's one of the best places to visit in Bedugul.
Respectfully have a look around the temple, and you may find locals happy to give you a quick tour. Once you've seen it (that won't take long!), head back out and have a look out over the lake. There may well be locals fishing in canoes, and, on shore, you can check out the... peculiar sculptures. I don't really know what to make of them, but you'll definitely know 'em when you see 'em!
When you're done, onto Wanagiri!
Six: Play at Wanagiri Hidden Hills
- Why: It's like a tiny wicker theme park, with incredible views over Lake Buyan.
- Where: On the main mountain road around the north-west of Danau Buyan. (map)
- How long: Budget 45 minutes, but you can go until your photos are Insta-worthy, or you get hungry.
- How much: If you're backpacking Bedugul on a tight budget, this is the kicker: 100k IDR, or £5.
Wanagiri is basically a cafe with a very clever marketing ploy.
They're parked on top of a cliff overlooking Danau Buyan and the mountains beyond, and have dedicated a roughly 20-metre strip to these wicker sculptures, plus a swing. You know the Bali Swing, near Ubud? Well, this is the Bedugul Swing.
Instagram husbands: beware!
All you need to do is climb into each sculpture, look your best, smile, and get the shot. The views are pretty damn spectacular from up here, so don't forget to look away from the camera and take it in!
Of course, it's all a touristy gimmick... but hey! If you enjoy it, it's worth the money! Right?
The more sinister side of this is that it seems to be the start of Bedugul losing its soul.
The more stuff like this is built around town, the more visitors they'll get. As the locals see this make money, soon everyone will be building their own attractions, and when that happens, how long before that pristine green jungle you come here to see is cut down to make room for one more resort?
Sadly, it feels like that's the way things are headed. This is doubly depressing because the south is rich with this kinda thing anyway, so does more of Bali need to be sacrificed to tourism?
If it does, I'll be sad to see Bedugul lose its culture.
Seven: Splash in the Twin Falls
- Why: Three words: Epic. Natural. Beauty.
- Where: North of Wanagiri Hidden Hills, up a small road into the forest. (map)
- How long: Call it a couple of hours - it's the perfect place to relax.
- How much: 20k IDR for the falls, and 2k for the car park. That's under £1.50 all-in.
It's time to hit the Bedugul waterfall! Bring some swim gear, a towel, and, if you've planned ahead, that tub of Nutella for your strawberries! You're set for the arvo.
The walk down to the fall is sketchy as hell. It's a slippery, wavy, and very pretty mess, and makes for great entertainment when your mate goes all Bambi on ice in front of you.
You know you're getting to the end when you hear the soft lilt of laughter and falling water start to break through the trees, and the path opens into a tropical basin. The dancing falls dominate the scene, and that constant, clean water fuels a maelstrom of lush green life all around you.
It's like reaching the pot of gold at the end of a rainbow.
You can kick back on a towel and just catch the sun if you like, or you can strap on a pair and hit the water!
And that pair will be promptly removed.
Now, I've had an ice bath, and this is worse. I know it's 'lovely once you're in' and all, but this is hypothermic.
The hilarity this causes adds to the experience, and you do (eventually) adjust to the temperature. It's just that you assume a tropical waterfall will be warm, and it really isn't.
You can easily stand under the falls, and, if you've never done it, the feeling is immense. The extraordinary power of it falls squarely on your shoulders, and it actually kinda hurts! But it's a good hurt, like it's massaging you.
Make an afternoon of it all, and just savour the moment. You're in paradise.
Other Falls Are Available!
We've picked this one because it's gorgeous, and fits in nicely with our day-long Bedugul itinerary.
If you have more time, Bedugul and the surrounding area is awash with waterfalls, and you could spend days touring them.
A couple to keep an eye out for are Gitgit, Sekumpul and Aling Aling.
Where to Eat When backpacking Bedugul
Put it this way: you won't find a Maccas in Bedugul!
The food is very much like the town: traditional, natural Balinese.
You can expect all the classics, such as Nasi Goreng, Mie Goreng, Nasi Campur, Satay and Rendang. And it's all so good, why would you want anything else?!
All the Bedugul restaurants and cafes look a little sus from the outside. They're very simple, often wooden shacks, making you wonder if you've accidentally walked into someone's shed. Yet, once you step inside, you see that all the energy has been put into where you're sitting, and making the most of Bedugul's incredible views.
Same applies to the food; all the effort is focussed on the taste. The presentation isn't all that, but once you have a bite, you won't care.
Also, this is the moment to point out that Bali is home to the fabled and feared 'Bali Belly'. From the outside, some of the cafes you'll find backpacking Bedugul look like food poisoning with planning permission, but they're as good as anywhere else on the island.
To be honest, you'll get Bali Belly at some point, so just embrace it. It passes.
Eco Cafe 2
- What: Hillside restaurant doing the local classics, in particular veggie and vegan food.
- Where: 15 mins drive west of Wanagiri and Danau Buyan, just off the main road. (map)
- How much: Not the cheapest in town, but still a bargain at around 40k IDR (£2) for a main.
Okay, so when you pitch up at this one you'll be thinking, "Oi Greg, WTF is this?".
But bear with me! This is one of the best restaurants in Bedugul.
Eco is all about the food and the views. If you can stomach the fact you're in a wonky, stilted hut balanced on a mountainside, you'll love it!
Eco Cafe smells incredible. I'm not sophisticated enough to pick out and name the ingredients, but it makes you hungry! So grab a pew next to the glassless window (you'll be able to, it's not exactly busy), and get ordering!
Have a crack at the spring rolls to start, followed by the beef rendang, and you won't go far wrong. If you're of the veggie persuasion, Ecos has got your back... but I'm a sucker for a rendang!
Also, this is a great moment to try the Luwak coffee. This will cost more than your meal, but it is a local delicacy, and where better to try it? Just double-check it's ethically sourced before you order!
All that's left to do is to tuck in, and enjoy the views over the forest canopy into the valley. It's worth the money for that view alone.
Don Biyu
- What: Eco Cafe's spiritual twin, just down the road. Indonesian classics in a stilted hillside hut, with breathtaking views.
- Where: 500 metres past Eco Cafe, on the same hillside. (map)
- How much: You can easily get a meal for under 40K IDR (£2).
If you swapped the sign outside here and Eco Cafe, you probably wouldn't notice.
It's got the same rustic feel, same views, and the same wonderful, local grub!
Don Biyu embodies the authenticity of Bedugul. No western menu, and they let the quality of the cooking speak for itself. Grab a coffee and a big portion of satay, and you'll leave a happy customer. A lot like Eco Cafe!
So why are both on this list?
Because they're both epic! Also, the food is cheap enough you can afford to eat at both, so have a nice afternoon sampling the local delicacies. Let me know if you can tell the two apart, because God knows I can't!
Warung Rekreasi D'Puncak Buyan
- What: The same traditional food Bedugul does so well, but with lake views instead.
- Where: Smack opposite Wanagiri Hidden Hills. (map)
- How much: Even cheaper - 25k IDR (£1.25) for a main!
If you just need the feeling of a brick building to enjoy your meal, this is the one for you.
The other two feel like they're made of lollipop sticks and tape, but this feels like it's made from brick and tape.
So that's nice.
Parked on the hilltop above Danau Buyan, you can grab a bite here when you visit Wanagiri. I'd hit up the mie goreng (that's spicy fried noodles), a meal you can find anywhere on Bali, but they get it spot on here.
Grab a table upstairs, if the staircase is still standing by the time you get here, and laugh at how such a sketchy-looking venue can turn out a plate of food this good (and big! I love me some big portions!)
It's not quite as good food-wise as the other two, and it looks like a building site. But it's so well located it kinda makes up for it, and it's worth coming here for the views.
And also to laugh at how shit it looks.
Where to Party Whilst Backpacking Bedugul
Is Backpacking Bedugul Safe?
You'd have to go some to fuck this one up.
Bedugul is super chilled, so all you really need to do is:
- Don't get run over;
- Don't piss off wild monkeys;
- Drive sensibly (if you're driving);
- Get off the swing if you hear a cracking noise;
- Don't fall off a cliff.
There really isn't much else to say... there's very little crime, so keep an eye on your belongings, and you'll be grand on that front. Plus there's not even anywhere to get stupid drunk, so you'll likely be sober around town.
We should note Bali is in an earthquake zone, but the good news is there's nothing substantial in Bedugul to fall on you! Plus, you're way, way inland and above tsunami range. If something does happen, just follow the locals. They'll help you.
Bottom line is this: you're the biggest threat to your own safety when backpacking Bedugul. Don't be a dick, and you'll come out in one piece.
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The key with Bedugul is getting here soon!
Things are busying up, and all the charm of Bedugul is its authentic, untouched feel. So beat the crowds.
If you do come backpacking Bedugul, make sure you do your bit to leave it in its pristine, wild state for the next people. Ethical travel is key in places like this.
If you've been, let us know how it went in the comments below! We all love hearing about other adventures, and passing on the latest local knowledge helps everyone out.
If you're planning a trip, let us know if we can help you out. Shoot us a message or drop a question in the comments, and we'll get back to you.
'Til next time!
If you're backpacking Bedugul, you may be interested in these nearby places...
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As other travel blogs on Bedugul not a single word about the fact that the town of Bedugul is largely Muslim with at least 3 or 4 mosques? I think it’s quite an important detail as Bali island is mainly Hindu and Muslims are a minority (less than 9%).