The Budget Guide To Backpacking Canggu, Bali
Last Updated: February 28, 2023
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HOW TO GET HERE | WHERE TO STAY | THINGS TO DO | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO PARTY | STAYING SAFE
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Welcome to Bali's trendiest town: The 'Gu
Not too long ago, a trip backpacking Canggu (pronounced chang-goo) was met with a quaint, spiritual seaside town. You'd find simple paths flanked with rice paddies, locals going about their business, and the softly-spiced aroma of frying Nasi Campur floated through the sea air.
However, it is now home to one of the ultimate spectacles of nature:
The Great Hipster Migration.
Digital nomads and influencers the world over make the pilgrimage to Canggu's shores, and many never leave. The conditions favour them too well.
They appear in the foam of crashing waves atop their surfboards, or astride a two-stroke moped from Kuta Airport, long hair billowing in the wind and bronzed skin glistening in the sunlight. They are here for Canggu's perfect surf, laid-back attitude, and its many, many vegan cafes.
That's right: welcome to hipster paradise!
Despite going against the grain with no travel tats, being unable to ride a moped, and scarcely able to stand on a surfboard, I lived and worked with the hipster crew in Canggu for seven months in 2018.
And it was awesome!
This blog is gonna lead you through the streets of Canggu, skipping the rubbish and making a beeline for the good shit.
Let's get into it!
What's Canggu Like?
Busy. Busier than most people expect.
Canggu is a small seaside town that's gotten very out of hand. It's all centred around the beachfront, and cascades back from there. A handful of 'main' roads snake inland, and they're crammed with a mess of old thatched huts and glistening steel-and-glass shop fronts that have no business being neighbours.
The usual maze of Balinese wiring buzzes overhead, and each main street comes complete with countless cul-de-sacs branching off and leading to absolutely... nowhere. Backpacking Canggu is like navigating a corn maze with Apple Maps.
It would all be a bit anonymous if it wasn't for the energy of its occupants. Notably, the whole town feels vibrant and alive, and there's a feeling that something could happen at any minute. Canggu is home to thousands of misfits, from Hells Angel and pro-surfer wannabes to digital nomads, self-proclaimed 'hustlers', and anyone else who looks at an office cubicle with all the enthusiasm of a sober pirate.
In the day, you're likely to be catching some surf, chilling in Insta-worthy cafes with the bloggers, or working on yourself at one of the many health clubs and retreats.
Into the evening, you never know what you'll be doing from one minute to the next. You finish your evening surf, and go to grab some food and discover the cafe only has swings for seats. Then you're drinking outside a corner shop as they pump out music, then you hit a bar and discover it's actually a skate bowl that sells booze. Next door, you go to the shop for a cold drink, open a fridge, and there's a hidden bar inside. Eventually, you make it to the beach, and party it out under the stars.
That, my friends, is Canggu.
In reality, it has to be said it's not a pretty place to be. There are glimpses of the beauty Canggu once had; the carved temples, rice paddies and palm trees are all still here. But Canggu is too built up these days, and it's lost its identity along the way.
In short, there is no way Canggu should ever be home to top-of-the-line sports clubs and luxury hotels, yet here they are. And that now means Canggu's identity comes more from the people that stay here than its history or culture.
How to Get To Canggu
Odds are, both you and your laptop will be flying into Bali's Denpasar Airport. Unfortunately, your options from here are limited.
Bali has no trains, so you're gonna be making the last leg of your journey by road. Similarly, buses are also not an option, as there is no route from the airport to Canggu. The furthest the buses go is Seminyak... which isn't particularly helpful for us!
Therefore, the best way to get to Canggu is to grab a lift via car.
Grab and Go-Jek are the two ride-hailing services on the island (think Uber), and they're so cheap it's not really worth considering other options! Just be aware that they can't come into the airport grounds, so you'll have to meet them at the north gate. Whatever you do, avoid the airport taxis, who'll rob you blind for the same journey.
Whilst we're talking about them, Grab and Go-Jek are a great shout for transport for your entire trip.
Alternatively, there's always a private driver available on Bali, happy to pick you up and take you all over the island for not much money. It's worth getting matey with one during your stay, as it's a super cost-effective way to make longer journeys, particularly if there's a few of you. If you need one, drop us a comment or message, and I'll give you some contacts.
Finally, if you're backpacking Canggu on a budget, you could brave it and hire a motorbike. This is THE cheapest way of getting around, but also the most risky. If you do get a bike, wear a helmet (it's the law), and don't ride drunk (it's not the law, but still pretty stupid!)
In essence, this advice also applies if you're arriving via boat in the ports of Sanur, Padang Bai or Gilimanuk. Simply grab a private driver from there, and save yourself hours of logistical headaches. Just remember to haggle!
Journey Times
Bali's road network is... different to what you're likely used to, and the journey times are legendarily unpredictable. However, here's a VERY rough ballpark:
Denpasar Airport - Canggu - 19km, 50 mins
Padang Bai Port - Canggu - 53km, 1hr 35 mins
Gilimanuk Port - Canggu - 107km, 2hr 55 mins
Ubud - Canggu - 29km, 1hr
Timing Your Trip
How Long Should You Spend Backpacking Canggu?
Let me ask you this: are you just visiting, or here on the Great Hipster Migration?
If you're migrating to be with your kind, grab a villa with a pool, and stay forever.
For everyone else, three days backpacking Canggu is enough to see what it's about. You'll hit up Tanah Lot, catch some surf, and get some good nights out under your belt.
However, you could easily spend weeks here kicking back, soaking in the sun, and discovering why Canggu is so popular.
For me, the issue with Canggu is that it isn't authentic. It's great fun, sure, but if you want to see what Bali is really about; don't hang around. For the real Bali, you want to head further inland to Ubud and explore the north, or head over to the Nusa Islands.
The Best Time Of The Year For Backpacking Canggu
If you're after the best weather, head to Canggu in the high season - June through to August. On balance, that's when you'll get the best out of Canggu and its open-air living. Obviously, the downside is you're not alone, and you may be sharing your wave and Bali bowl with everyone else who had the same idea.
Honestly, most of the good things to do in Canggu can be enjoyed year-round. The standard advice to all those backpacking Canggu and Bali is to avoid monsoon season (November through March) but, in truth, the weather is so spectacular I'd argue it's worth it. The rainstorms are immense, warm enough that they're actually nice to be caught in, and Canggu is hot enough that you dry out in minutes afterwards. Plus, you'll avoid the crowds.
Your call.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking Canggu
Canggu has grown immensely over the last few years, and its roads now reach their way deep inland. Whilst there is plenty to enjoy up there, Canggu's roots, and its heart, lay by the sea.
Here, you'll find the full suite of accommodation, from quirky hostels through to infinity-pooled, 5-star beachfront hotels, and everything in between. Whether you're backpacking Canggu on a budget or living here running your blog, there's somewhere for you.
First up, I'm gonna give you a quick geography rundown of Canggu. Ready?
Generally speaking, Canggu's core is made of two districts - 'proper' Canggu to the north-west, and Berawa to the south-east.
These districts are separated by endless rice paddies and a stream. To cross between them, you can either take the beach (if on foot), or a single, rickety old brick road known as 'The Shortcut', which can be taken on foot or on bikes. If you're travelling by car... bad luck. It's a several-mile journey inland to the next connecting road. And it's gridlocked.
All in al you will want to visit both districts whilst backpacking Canggu. Conveniently, all the action in both happens between the Shortcut and the beach!
So guess where we're staying?!
Here's a map showing where to stay in Canggu - staying anywhere in the grey area is ideal, and being close by is still pretty damn good.
Basically, avoid being way inland, unless you like commuting.
With that said, let's look at where hits the mark...
Koa D'Surfer
- What: Hotel with rooftop pool and bar, at a reasonable price.
- Where: Around the corner from Finns Beach Club, in Berawa. (map)
- Why: Rooftop pool, outstanding staff, close to Berawa Beach, and an amazing brekky!
- Why Not: It's in Berawa, not 'proper' Canggu, and it's more expensive than hostels.
Koa takes the best that hostels have to offer, and combines it with the luxury of a hotel. And we all love a mash-up, don't we?
What stays in my mind with Koa is the staff. Even in a fancy hotel staff are friendly, but you get the feeling they're just doing their job.
In Koa, it's like they're your mates. They hang out, they chat, they joke about, and somehow they never drop the ball. They clearly love what they do, and it just makes it such a cool place to be. It's the best vibe I found anywhere backpacking Canggu!
The communal rooftop area is home to sun loungers, infinity pool, huge sand pit, and sunset lookouts. There's always a load of guests up here, and the chatter mixes with the chilled music in the air. It all goes down particularly nicely with a Bintang from the rooftop bar. There's no reason to be anywhere else... if you can afford it!
It's never gonna be as cheap as a homestay or hostel, but... some things in life are worth splashing a little extra, y'know? It's still reasonable, you'll have all the buzz and camaraderie of a hostel stay... just with a cocktail in hand and your feet in the pool! -
You'll get a room to yourself, and they're damn comfortable. No sharing showers, bathrooms, or bunks for you! Plus, you gain about 8 instant mates in the staff, who will do so much for you, you'll want to throw them money just to say thanks for everything - and when I tried, they refused it.
Also, make sure you get the breakfast, too - it's a proper Balinese buffet. Make sure you hit up the egg station - if it can be made with an egg, they'll do it here. 6-egg Balinese omelette? Yes, please! Oh, and it's all-you-can-eat, which are the four most important words to a budget backpacker.
If I was back in Canggu tomorrow, this'd be the first place I'd try and book.
LV8
- What: 5-star beachfront luxury hotel.
- Where: Overlooking the beach, opposite Finn's Beach Club in Berawa. (map)
- Why: Perfect location, perfect luxury, and because you can afford it. Right?
- Why Not: You can't afford it. Particularly if you're backpacking Canggu on a budget.
Okay, so this isn't our normal style at all. However, I did have a couple of nights of pampering at LV8, and it is everything you'd expect it to be!
Including expensive.
If you're in Canggu either on a honeymoon, getting photos for your 1.2m Insta followers, or just draining your trust fund, it's perfect! Plus, it's just over the road from Finn's Beach Club, which is the only other place you'd want to be.
Okay, I am being facetious, because it truly is lovely. The rooms are plush and luxurious, the corridors are wide and grand, the staff prim and attentive in that curt, professional manner you associate with money... it all feels very expensive.
And that pool. Oh damn.
It's perfect. The whole place is. It's all designed for you to be so fucking comfy, you don't even feel the money sliding out of your wallet.
In case you couldn't tell, it's not my thing. It's spot on if you need to recharge, but it's too airbrushed, too lacking in the flaws that make something real and relatable, and leaves you so comfortable that you become a bit numb to the world. It's the antithesis of Bali.
Besides, you'll know if LV8 is for you. If it is, I'd wager you're the sort of person who spends most of your trips staying in the resort. In which case, you'll love it here.
Waterborn Bali
- What: A tiny hostel with communal living at its heart.
- Where: 2 minutes walk from Love Anchor Markets, 15 from the beach. (map)
- Why: It's cheap, it's communal and it's in the thick of the things to do in Canggu. Plus, there's a pool!
- Why Not: It's not the closest to the beach (and the clubs down that way).
Update: This appears to be another Covid Casualty. Their Instagram says they are closed - which would be a deep shame. If it crops back up in some form, we'll be back with the glowing review it deserved. But, for now... here we are. 🙁
Wita Homestay
- What: Basic homestay in the heart of Berawa.
- Where: A five-minute walk to Finns Beach Club. (map)
- Why: Because it's super cheap! And has everything you realistically need...
- Why Not: ... but not everything you want.
Yep. This was home for the majority of my 7 months.
In reality, there's nothing to really shout about here. It's clean, minimalist living, with several rooms in a small, two-storey block. You get a tiled room, a couple of beds, some storage, an en-suite, a balcony... and that's about it. It's like living in a nice prison cell.
So why have I recommended it?
First up, it's a bargain! You can sleep two of you, comfortably, for under £10 a night. You get your own space, wifi, and all the other basics sorted.
Second, it is spotlessly clean - and that's never a guarantee when somewhere is this cheap. Everything is completely spick-and-span, including the communal kitchen - which no one ever used because you can get lunch for £1.50 just down the road.
Third, the whole site is built as an authentic Balinese compound house, complete with a temple, welcome area and garden, and all populated with traditional sculptures and design. There's even a tranquil little garden you're free to use.
However, all this would be pointless if it was way out of the action. The good news is: it isn't! It's in easy reach of everything in Berawa. The homestay itself is on a quiet side road, but you're only three minutes from grabbing lunch at the Insta-worthy Bali Bowl and Smoothie and Ruko, five from crashing at the beach and Finn's, and fifteen from the Shortcut.
And, for under £5 a head, you can't say fairer than that! If you're debating where to stay in Canggu on a budget: look no further.
**Update from Feb 2023 ** Prices have gone up to around £25 a night for a room. Honestly, that's not too bad when you could squeeze four in a room.
Further Accommodation
There are literally hundreds of weird-and-wonderful places to stay whilst backpacking Canggu. I've visited dozens whilst I was living in the area, and, whilst we never give reviews for places we haven't stayed, here's a few other pointers:
If you're after a health-focussed eco retreat, you could do a lot worse than Serenity Eco Guesthouse and Yoga. Serenity is a place of pure luxury and tranquillity, a short skip from the seafront in Canggu. I visited on a couple of occasions, and I instantly felt at peace. Yoga and meditation is more Charlie's thing, but this place has some major appeal regardless. Think spacious, airy rooms, vivid vegan breakfasts, and leafy, lush pathways to wide studios. I'd love to stay here, but I would, however, have to pass on the yoga. I am about as bendy as a reinforced metal pole.
If you're looking for a homestay with a little more home than prison, look no further than Wita's next-door neighbours, Putu Guest House 1 and 2. Putu 2 is basically Wita, but with a bit more decor and a pool. Say no more.
And for those of you heading to Bali to live that baller lifestyle, you'll be needing to rent out a villa. That's right, I'm talking open-plan living, I'm talking huge, slide-open doors, and I'm talkin' private pools with leaves and shit at the side! It's everything you need to show off your lifestyle! Here's just one example.
Ultimately, whatever your price point, Canggu has somewhere for you! If nothing we've shown you so far is floating your boat (no offence taken...), you can always consult the Holy Trinity down below.
Good luck!
Things to do when Backpacking Canggu
Here's your Canggu Guide:
- Explore the Watery Tanah Lot Temple
- (Ethically) Learn about Balinese Luwak Coffee
- Get Soaked at Splash
- Watch the Sunset
- Catch Some Surf
- Hit Up Canggu's Markets
- Relax at Finn's Beach Club
Not too busy, huh?
First, a warning: getting around Canggu is a major pain in the ass.
It has more dead ends than the Game of Thrones plot, and, thanks to its two almost-totally-separate districts (that's Canggu and Berawa, remember?), you're gonna be crossing the beach or the Shortcut a lot if you don't group these together well - which we've done in our two-day Canggu itinerary.
With that in mind, it's just as well there isn't a ton of things to do in Canggu. It's more about soaking up the beach vibes and cafe culture in the day, and the Bintangs in the evening.
Without further ado, here's what to do in Canggu. I bid you... adieu! (Sorry, couldn't resist.)
Explore the Watery Tanah Lot Temple
- Why: It's one of the most famous temples in Bali, with some interesting history...
- Where: On the coast, about 35 minutes northwest of Canggu. (map)
- How long: Expect to spend a half-hour at the temple, and about two at the complex.
- How much: 60K IDR (around £3) to enter the complex - plus parking.
Let me tell you a story...
Legend has it that, in the 16th century, Tanah Lot temple was built for the people of Bali by the Holiest Priest.
However, after its completion, it was left in the care of the locals. The locals defied the Holiest Priest's wishes, and stopped outsiders from attending the temple and seeing his creation.
Upon hearing this, the Holiest Priest returned, and became angry with the locals. With all his rage, he took his stick and struck the ground, causing the temple to split from the land and drift into the sea.
He then removed his leather belt and whipped it in the air. As this happened, the belt turned into a snake. The Holiest Priest left the snake as the eternal protector of the temple, to ensure all were welcome forevermore.
And now, we return to your scheduled guide
Interesting tale, eh? Who could say whether it's true or not.
Either way, Tanah Lot is about as cultural as it gets backpacking Canggu, and people queue to set foot on its beautiful, holy grounds.
To achieve that, our aim is to get here for low tide. If you don't, you'll find the temple has been cut off by some fairly spicy waves.
Obviously, low tide changes times, so you'll need to check when that is before you go. Get there a little ahead of this time, and, once you're in, make a beeline for the temple. Don't get distracted by the shops and stalls, you can check that out afterwards!
As the waters drop, a route is revealed, and you can cross over to Tanah Lot temple itself. You can't go into the main temple building, but you can wander around the base.
Once you're at the foot the temple, you can choose, for a small donation (an acceptable amount is 2-5k IDR, which is pennies), to receive a blessing from a few of the temple's priests.
This blessing involves washing your hands, your face, and then taking a sip of the holy water. Then you'll be splashed in the face, and the priests step in to stick rice to your forehead, and put a flower behind your ear. It's all very eclectic, but you'll leave with a smile!
Back on the Bali side, another similar donation will see a priest lead you into a very dark, very narrow cave to meet yet another priest, who invites you to pet his snake.
Simmer down. No jokes, please!
The snake is said to be a descendent of the snake in the legend. Apparently, it is also a very deadly sea snake that lives with the priests. Believe what you will!
After that, we're heading back topside to head to have a look around the markets - remember to learn a little about Bali's most famous coffee before you go!
(Ethically) Learn about Balinese Luwak Coffee
- Why: It's one of Bali's most unique exports, and the most expensive coffee in the world!
- Where: We suggest Bali Luwak Coffee, inside the Tanah Lot complex. (map)
- How long: Well, how long does a coffee and a chat take? 30 minutes?
- How much: Learning is free. Tasting? That's around 100k IDR (£5)
What is Luwak coffee?
It's coffee made from beans that have been partially digested by the Asian Palm Civet. That's the fluffy guy in the photo - his name is John.
That's right: it's cat shit coffee!
In the wild, civets forage the forest for its finest delicacies, including the very ripest coffee berries. After a while, nature takes its course, and out pops a big, coffee-studded turd.
For reasons known only to them, an adventurous local thought, "Yum, that's today's caffeine fix sorted!"... and thought it wasn't half bad! After what must have been considerable persuading, they got their mates to try it, and so Kopi Luwak was born.
Sounds good, right?!
No. Didn't think so!
But not for the reasons you might think...
Here's what's wrong with Kopi Luwak
Kopi Luwak has gained popularity, and is now the world's most expensive coffee - commanding prices 5x higher wholesale than the finest gourmet coffees.
Demand soon outstripped supply, and the turds ran out. So humans, being the ingenious, compassionate creatures we are, decided to make more, by intensively farming the civets.
Civets have been captured and farmed in hellish conditions across Bali in the name of profit.
These civets are:
- Force-fed coffee year-round (in the wild, they eat coffee for 2 months of the year as part of a wider diet).
- Kept in tiny cages stacked three-high in battery farms, standing on metal bars that injure their paws.
- Kept with no clean water.
- Despite being nocturnal, they are kept awake in the day for feeding and tourism.
- Kept in isolation, so they can't socialise.
There's plenty wrong with Kopi Luwak, and you should never drink it at home. Here's a Nat Geo article explaining why.
So why the hell are we recommending this?
To be clear: we aren't suggesting you try Kopi Luwak.
What we're suggesting is that you meet an ethical farmer, meet his civets running free around you, and learn about this rather unique product.
The Bali Luwak Coffee shop has a rep in Bali for being one of the few places you can try legit, ethically-farmed Kopi Luwak, without breaking the bank. And it's right inside Tanah Lot!
You can have a chat with Agus and Putu, and learn their process. Ask questions, have a look around, and see what you make of it all.
If, after all of this, you feel comfortable ordering a cup, that's up to you. Just make sure you're informed, and trust where it's come from.
And, if you'd rather drink something that hasn't been made from poo, there's always other drinks available!
Get Soaked at Splash
- Why: Because what's more fun than watching your mate get stuck on a water slide?!
- Where: Next to Finn's Recreation Club. (map)
- How long: Slides right into your schedule at around 2 hours.
- How much: 270k IDR (£13-ish) on the door, or book online at 200k (£10).
Look out Orlando! Bali is coming for your water park crown!
Honest...
Okay, let's be real - Splash isn't even the best water park in Bali (you're after Waterbom in Kuta), but it is king of Canggu!
You know what a water park is. Pitch up, go on some slides, try and beat the Germans to the sunbed by the pool, and soak in a bit of Balinese sunshine.
Best enjoyed in early afternoon in peak season, when the rest of Canggu is just too hot.
Watch the Sunset
- Why: Cold beer and sunsets are one of the world's great pairings.
- Where: Your nearest beach!
- How long: Until you get hungry.
- How much: Beers are no more than 20k IDR (£1) a go.
Get yourself down to the beach for the evening!
You'll find beach bars scattered along every beach in Canggu. My favourite is Arboon on Berawa Beach, where you can crash on the bean bags and swings, and spend a few slow hours sipping ice-cold Bintangs and watching the last of the surfers ride in against the sunset.
Kick back, soak in the gentle beats coming from the bars, and enjoy.
Catch Some Surf
- Why: When in hipster Rome...
- Where: Surf's good all along Canggu!
- How long: Until you can't tell what's seawater and what's tears. So... a couple hours? Or minutes...
- How much: Time to haggle! Board hire shouldn't be more than 50k IDR (£2.50) an hour.
Surfing is a part of life in Canggu. It's like breakfast to these guys.
If you know what end of the board is which, you can just grab a board and get stuck in. There's hire places all along the beach at good prices.
If you're in town long-term, there's a small industry in second-hand boards as people come and go. Ask around - someone could be leaving town tomorrow. Or check this Facebook group.
If you haven't a clue what a duck-dive is, there's also a load of places offering one-to-one lessons for beginners. Obviously, this will cost extra, but they should have you standing after a few hours!
There's a ton of nuance to surfing - more than we can dive into here - so if you're serious about your surf, check out this comprehensive guide to the breaks in Canggu.
Hit Up Canggu's Markets
- Why: Pick up some trinkets, plus who doesn't love a market?
- Where: There's several in town - see below.
- How long: A half-hour at each should be plenty. None are that big.
- How much: Truly depends on how disciplined you are.
Love Anchor
If you're expecting an artisanal market of Balinese culture... you're in the wrong place. Try Ubud.
However, what you will find at Love Anchor is a two-storey, jungle-inspired boutique full of bohemian treasures. You'll find flowy dresses galore, stalls that sell only beads, and a really, really easygoing vibe.
Love Anchor is just a nice place to hang out. You can feel the smile cross your face as you walk into its bamboo embrace, and you can lose a happy half-hour just pacing slowly and browsing. One of the most unique markets I've ever been to.
Old Man's
Old Man's is basically a huge car-boot or yard sale.
Normally a thriving nightclub, Old Man's is transformed every Saturday morning into a mass of stalls where everyone in Canggu comes to get rid of shit they don't want. Thankfully, in amongst this you can find some handmade gems, and some incredible food stalls.
It's the polar opposite of Love Anchor, but it's chaos that's worth checking out!
Relax at Finns Beach Club
- Why: It's THE place to be seen hanging out in Canggu.
- Where: Berawa Beach Front. (map)
- How long: Spend a good few hours.
- How much: Entry is free! Beyond that, get your overdraft ready: it's western prices here.
If you're backpacking Canggu on a budget, Finns will fuck you up.
Home to dozens of luxury loungers, swim-up bars, several resident DJs, and one gorgeous infinity pool, Finns was never gonna be cheap. Luckily, they thought of this and put a cashpoint just by the entrance.
You can rock up for a free swim, but if you want to sit down on anything remotely soft, crack out your wallet. Sunbeds start at 400k IDR (that's £20), and go up from there. You can redeem the cost of your sunbed against food and drink, but even local foods are four times the price you'd get it 200 yards down the road.
Don't think you're smuggling shit in, either. You get searched on the door, and they could teach airports a few things. So much as a bottle of water will be taken, so you can buy one instead, and it will cost more than yours. Just go empty-handed.
It's cool as hell in here, and worth it for a little luxury as a one-off. But if you're thinking of coming regularly or having a mega piss-up, it's kinda out of the budget of most of us backpackers.
A Two-Day Canggu Itinerary
So let's organise all that into a slow-paced, two-day Canggu itinerary. We're taking it easy here. Canggu is that kinda town.
We've set these days out logically to cut down on travel times. We've also kept meals balanced between the local and the familiar, but Canggu is SO full of amazing places to eat that if you don't fancy our shout, you can swap it out for something else in town!
Remember we said to spend three days backpacking Canggu? Your sole job on the third day is to take it easy. Find a cafe you like, and work off the hangover with a fresh juice. And four coffees.
Backpacking Canggu Itinerary: Day One
Today is all about soaking up Canggu's history and culture. And we'll be done with that by lunch. And none of it is in Canggu.
This is also the only bit of the whole Canggu itinerary that's gonna be taking us out of town. We're getting that done ASAP, so you can kick back tomorrow, take it slow, and become a real resident of the 'Gu!
Start the day by taking a ride over to Tanah Lot, and soak up the vibes here. Remember to take some time to learn about the famous poo coffee at Bali Luwak Coffee!
For lunch, there's tons of choice down here at Tanah Lot, but head to Dewi Sinta Restaurant for a proper authentic plate of Nasi Campur, and to sip from a coconut that was freshly machete-d open in front of you.
Head back into Canggu, where, once lunch has gone down, we're taking it easy for the afternoon at Splash Water Park, releasing your inner child for a few hours.
Aim to catch the sunset at Arboon, down at Berawa Beach. Knock back a few beers, and once your stomach starts rumbling...
Grab some dinner at Deus Ex Machina (order the mozzarella sticks!), before letting the night sweep you away.
We're having a hard night on the town, and this usually means ending up at Old Man's or Sandbar. See where's gonna be buzzing here.
Enjoy! It's a chilled day tomorrow, and the cool sea water will sober you right up...
Backpacking Canggu Itinerary: Day Two
We're staying more central today, and getting stuck into Canggu's more modern side.
Today, you sample a day in the life of the ubiquitous Canggu hipster. So man-bun it up and grab your board: we're off!
Start the morning by catching some surf on one of Canggu's many beaches - lessons are available everywhere - before heading into Canggu to have a mooch around the jungly Love Anchor Markets and picking up some boutique souvenirs. Remember your haggling skills!
Lunch is a few doors down at Betelnut Cafe - personally, I'd just have two portions of cheesecake instead of a main (you've earned it with that surfing), before heading to...
Spend the afternoon lounging at Finns Beach Club. It's not cheap, but it's an awesome hangout, the music setup is insane, and their infinity pool is spectacular.
For dinner, we're balancing the books by eating cheap at Warung Heboh - it's as authentic as it gets, and it's cheaper than cooking yourself. Why wouldn't you?
Tonight, follow the vibe. Start at The Lawn, and inevitably your night will work itself out from there.
Where to Eat When Backpacking Canggu
It seems every other building in Canggu is serving food!
You can pick up cake and coffee in any of the 'Gu's many cafes, authentic Indonesian grub for pennies at the warungs, or eat your way around the world without ever leaving town.
Suffice to say, you're not gonna starve backpacking Canggu!
For those not in the know, warung is a Balinese word that basically means small, family-owned cafe. If you're backpacking Canggu on a tight budget, these will become your best friends.
Canggu's cafe culture is ubiquitous. With most of the town's residents demanding coffee and wifi access to function, this isn't so surprising. It also means each cafe has some sort of gimmick to make it stand out - you'll find cafes with swings for seats, huts on stilts that specialise in cheesecake, and a whole lot of health food.
And yes, that includes those bowls of vivid, technicolour goodness that Canggu is so famous for!
There's a ton of places to eat in Canggu, but only a few are shoutout-worthy. Here are some of the best...
Poke Poke
- What: Indonesian health bowl extraordinaires.
- Where: Next to Deus and Love Anchor Market, in the heart of Canggu. (map)
- How much: 65k IDR for a small, or 90k IDR (£4.50) for a large. (You want the large, trust me)
If you're backpacking Canggu, you've got to have a poke bowl. And I reckon this is the best in town!
A poke bowl is a salad on steroids. It's all about freshness, big flavours, and harmony. Poke Poke ingredients taste like they've just been picked, and they use them to create something in that bowl that's more than the sum of its parts. It's not cheap, but oh damn, it's tasty! Plus, if you order the large, there's a whole lot of it to enjoy!
Chill on their swings while you wait, then enjoy the laid-back atmosphere and bohemian decor whilst tucking into the sexy 'red quinoa huxi' bowl, washed down with a mixed berry smoothie.
So good, it feels dirty.
Warung Heboh
- What: Roadside shed serving some of Canggu's best Indonesian cuisine. The locals eat here.
- Where: On the Berawa side of The Shortcut. (map)
- How much: It's a self-service buffet, so you pay by the amount... but it's dirt cheap. Feeling hungry?
**Update from Feb 2023** - Of course, this little joint is all about fantastic flavours for very little money. However, it appears there has been a makeover. Warung Heboh now has the looks to match its tasty dishes**
Pre-makeover, you may have looked at this place and thought, "Now THAT is guaranteed food poisoning!". It's a rickety hut on the main road, and looks... a bit shit, really.
Well, some things are worth risking a bit of Bali Belly for, and Warung Heboh is one of them. This was one of my favourite haunts in Canggu for two reasons: it's super cheap, and the food is unbelievable.
Plus I never once got ill after eating here. Turns out you can have it all.
Heboh serves a smorgasbord of perfectly cooked, flavoursome Indonesian cuisine, and you can pick whatever you fancy. I don't even have a particular recommendation for you, it's all amazing. Try everything!
Granted, it's not somewhere to bring a date (at least not if you want to see them again), but if you want an authentic, top-quality Indonesian meal for next to nothing, look no further.
Oh, and they do takeaway. Which is dangerous.
Berawa's Kitchen
- What: Stylish western-style open-air food court with occasional entertainment.
- Where: In Berawa, less than 5 minutes walk from the Shortcut. (map)
- How much: Depends where you eat, but expect more western prices.
This is much like a trendy, inner-city food court back home, but with more... Bali.
You'll find food from around the world at Berawa's Kitchen, but what makes it so good is the buzzy, open-air atmosphere that really picks up in the evenings. With the hanging lanterns, free-flowing drinks and clusters of people chatting away on beanbags and cushions, it's like you've been invited to a really laid-back party.
It's more than just dinner. It can be your whole night out if you want it to!
Food-wise, it's great! Don't expect massive portions, but this just means you can try several plates from around the world like you're at a global-themed tapas bar. You'll find around a dozen stalls, with the Indian and the pancake places particularly standing out.
Betelnut Cafe
- What: Quintessential healthy hipster hangout famous for its cheesecake.
- Where: Next to Deus and Love Anchor Market. (map)
- How much: Reasonable, with delicious wraps rolling in at 60-70k IDR (£3).
**Update from Feb 2023** Sadly, it appears the Betelnut Cafe is permanently close ** Stand by for any updates**
Now this is classic Canggu!
Trendy, coffee-fuelled vibes stuffed into a two-storey wooden shack, pumping out better food than it has any right to. Everything just tastes so damn fresh!
You'll find all the buddha and smoothie bowls you'd expect, and their burritos are a thing of beauty. However, it's also a great place to just go and grab a cuppa, with a slice of THAT cheesecake. Please... just do it. If Carlsberg did cheesecakes...
Betelnut can get pretty busy, so you're not guaranteed a table. But that's just a testament to how good it is. Give it a try.
Deus Ex Machina
- What: Cool-as-fuck custom bike shop with restaurant offering western favourites.
- Where: Opposite Love Anchor Markets and 15 minutes walk from the coast. (map)
- How much: A three-course is coming in at 220k IDR (£11).
Deus is pricey for Bali, but worth it!
Deus see themselves as representing a way of life. The freedom of the open road, bikes, travel... and, apparently, some seriously good grub!
We're looking at some truly amazing, filthy dirty western food. Start with the mozzarella sticks (seriously, you HAVE to start with these), follow it up with whatever main you're fancying, and finish it with the chocolate lava cake. After that, order the oreo cheesecake, and eat that too.
And thank me later.
All of this takes place kinda in their main shop, so you're not really sure where the boundaries are between clothing store, bike workshop and restaurant. And you get the impression that's what they want. It's stylish, welcoming, and oh-so-cool.
Deus throw on a live rock band on Sundays, and Tuesday is taco and free tattoo night. You get the idea.
Ruko
- What: Internet cafe meets trendy breakfast joint.
- Where: In Berawa, 5 minutes walk from the beach. (map)
- How much: 60-70k IDR (£3ish) covers most of the menu.
Grab your laptop, get your coffee order in, and settle yourself down. You won't need to leave Ruko all day.
Well, at least until 4. Then they close. Boo.
Ruko is an all-day breakfast joint, churning out Insta-worthy plates, fresh smoothies, and great coffee. Oh, and it's ULTRA hipster - expect whitewashed walls, blackboard menus and hanging plants everywhere, with a few murals adding a pop of colour. It wouldn't look out of place turning out $9 lattes in Brooklyn.
I suggest you rock up to Ruko's for some late brekky. Personally, I couldn't get enough of the smashed avo on sourdough, although the pulled pork occasionally got a look-in.
Just don't come here if you're ravenous - you'll either be ordering twice, or leaving hungry. Ruko's is more about style than substance.
District
- What: Quiet western eatery with open views over the rice paddies.
- Where: Halfway between Berawa Beach and The Shortcut. (map)
- How much: Most mains are 60-80K IDR (£3-4).
If you're missing the taste of home... no matter where you're from, you'll find it at District.
District specialise in what we in Britain call 'pub grub' - that's big plates of comfort food - just presented better. You can kick back in their minimalist, open-plan warehouse, order something nostalgic, and enjoy the peace and quiet, with views out over the swaying rice paddies.
The food is really solid - the chicken teriyaki and the beef sliders are standouts - and sometimes you just need a bit of familiar comfort, y'know?
District isn't ever that busy, but it's cool in a rustic, minimalist way, and it's always tasty. A good call for an evening date.
Bali Bowls And Smoothies
- What: Everything Canggu in a bowl. Insta-worthy, uber-healthy stilted shack.
- Where: Opposite Ruko. (map)
- How much: Canggu prices. 80k (£4) for a bowl on average.
Bali Bowl and Smoothie describe themselves as a "new healthy eating and lifestyle concept", reflecting the "spirit of Bali".
Unsurprisingly, I really, reaallllly want to hate them...
But I like it. I like it a lot.
Anywhere else in the world, this would be a pretentious fucking abomination. But it absolutely encapsulates Canggu in a two-storey, whitewashed bamboo shack.
After a while backpacking Canggu, you'll realise that all these smoothie bowls taste the same. It's fresh, vibrant ingredients in a bowl, and not much else. It's kinda hard to cock it up, really.
Bali Bowl and Smoothie don't give you more than anywhere else (the opposite, in fact), and they're not any cheaper. A blind taste test couldn't tell them apart. But they nail that vibe. It's just such a nice place to be, and they're living on the reputation they've built around that.
If you're debating where to eat in Canggu, just know that you have to try this once. Order your bowl, grab a seat on the terrace, and soak it all in.
Where to Party Whilst Backpacking Canggu
Canggu is in a unique position in Bali: there are as many westerners living and working here as there are visiting.
Therefore, the nightlife is really varied, and caters as much to people wanting a chilled beer after work as it does to those wanting to drink themselves to oblivion, and do the flaming limbo on the way down.
Before we get too stuck in, let's first talk about Canggu's rather interesting approach to pre-drinking...
Pre-drinks in Canggu
Ultimately, we all like keeping nights out as cheap as possible. Particularly those of us backpacking Canggu on a budget!
In Canggu, there is a genius solution to this predicament:
The little mini-marts north of Batu Bolong Beach all sell alcohol. However, a couple (aim here!) have had the bright idea to put out a couple of tables, and pump some tunes out onto the street.
Consequently, this is the cheapest place you'll find to drink when backpacking Canggu, and it's rammed. Bintangs (the local beer) cost pennies, people overflow into the street, and they're open until the early hours. Pitch up, sink a few to start the night, try not to get run over, and then head off to wherever the party's at!
Where's buzzing in Canggu? A Day-by-Day Summary:
The bars and clubs are open late on different nights. Here's where to go in Canggu on a night out, and where the crowds will be headed.
- Tuesday – Pretty Poison, then The Black Cat
- Wednesday – Old Man’s and Sandbar
- Thursday – Pretty Poison
- Friday – Old Man’s
- Saturday – Pretty Poison
- Sunday – Deus, followed by Old Man’s and Sandbar
- Monday – Canggu relaxes and most people head off to Seminyak, where La Favela rules the roost. However, The Lawn is the place for a relaxing cocktail back in Canggu.
A note on getting home...
Dotted around the nightlife, you'll find teams of bike taxis at your disposal, offering you rides home.
These guys are almost as cheap as walking, have been riding bikes their whole life, don't drink drive, and will make sure you get back with nothing but a hangover. They're good as gold, and I highly recommend using them after a night on the town.
Even so, just wear the helmet!
Arboon (and other Small Beach Bars)
- What: Somewhere to enjoy the sunset with a beanbag and a cold beer.
- Where: Dotted all along the coast. Specifically, Arboon is onto the beach and left of Finn's. (map)
This is a real cheap, comfy way to get your buzz going. And it doesn't get much more Bali than beaches, beer and sunset!
Don't expect much from these places, they're typically beach huts with speakers nailed to the front. But sinking into a plush beanbag, soft beats running through you as you watch the surfers roll in, is heavenly. The sky fades to crimson, and you can feel the condensation off your ice-cold Bintang roll down your fingers...
Your night can start and end here. Or it could be the calm before the storm. Your call!
Besides Arboon, Amerta Bar (map) and the Hidden Beach Bar (map) have great vibes going on. Pick your nearest!
The Lawn
- What: Immaculate posho hideaway that sometimes just kicks off!
- Where: On the Canggu-side beachfront, next to Old Man's. (map)
By day, the wonderfully relaxed masterpiece that is The Lawn boasts a fleet of loungers, an infinity pool, beachfront views and Bali vibes.
By night, it becomes a different beast.
Well... one night in five, anyway.
No one seems to know what sets the party off here, but, when it does, The Lawn develops from a beautifully-turfed posho paradise to a crowded, messy den of disaster. Suddenly, the DJ picks up the pace, the beers are flowing, and everyone decides that 12 Bintangs down is the perfect moment to pile into the infinity pool and party into the night.
On its off-days, it's still a nice place to come and sink a few comfy, overpriced beers before moving on. But, on that one night, you won't want to go anywhere else. It's like a secret party for those in the know... and now you know.
Finns Beach Club
- What: THE place to be seen partying in Canggu.
- Where: Berawa Beach. (map)
We gave Finn's a shakedown earlier... and there's not much to add.
By day, it's a fancy hangout. By night, it's the hottest pool party in town. You have a big swim-up bar, big DJ sets, big beach views...
It's a big party, and it's gonna cost you big money.
Keep an eye out for the posters that go up around town. Finn's occasionally throw huge events, and you want to be there. On a normal night, I wouldn't bother - it's too expensive and too pretentious.
However, on those party nights, get your ticket and get your ass in there! If you have the cash, this is where you wanna lose it. It's a wild, wet, drunken night of chaos.
For those of you backpacking Canggu on a budget... if you can wangle it, do it! Unfortunately, if you're on an absolute shoestring, give it a miss.
Pretty Poison
- What: A concrete skate bowl with a bar nailed to it. Obviously.
- Where: On the Shortcut. (map)
Alcohol and sudden drops mix well, don't they?
Just as well. This is Canggu's skater Mecca, and they do drinks. It's bloody genius!
Basically, you rock up at Pretty Poison, grab a cold one (they're cheap!), and watch the show. Some seriously talented skaters then rip it up in the bowl in front of you, and you get to witness every drop-in, every grind, and every crash.
It's not for the faint of heart. Rogue skateboards soaring into the crowd are a regular sight, and blood and glass are often wiped out of the bowl. If someone in the crowd happens to get sparked out... well, they knew the risks going in.
It's unlike anywhere I've ever been. It's packed to the point where people have to jump back as the grinds come round the bowl, and there's nowhere in town as raw, grungy and authentically itself.
The party usually starts between nine and ten, and the only downside is they close a few hours after that. If you're on a rager, you'll have to move on.
Regardless, PP is still one of my favourite places to drink in Canggu.
The Black Cat
- What: Secret bar hidden in a shop fridge. No, really.
- Where: Next to Pretty Poison on the Shortcut. (map)
As quickly as the crowds arrive in Pretty Poison, they die away. You'll want to leave just before this happens, and head here.
Come out, turn left, and you'll see a little corner shop called the Black Cat. Yep, a corner shop. One that's known locally as The Fridge.
For maximum effect, you want to drag along a few mates who are new to town, head in to pick up "one for the road", say hi to the cashier, and get them to grab something out of the big fridge in the back-left that says 'BROKEN'.
And then laugh at their reaction.
Hidden behind this fridge door is Canggu's answer to the hidden speakeasies of New York and London. A dark, small bar is pouring drinks that are quite regularly on fire, there's a few booths, and an open terrace looking out on the rice paddies at the end. By the time your buddy has picked their jaw up off the floor, you're already racking up at the pool table, and you look like a local guru.
It's never too rammed, and it just has those nice, chilled cocktail-bar vibes. Likewise, the staff are great for a chat, the drinks are stiff, and you get to chuckle at the reactions of new visitors as they enter through the fridge.
What's not to love?
Old Man's
- What: A hot, sticky, sweaty mosh pit of an outdoor club.
- Where: Overlooking Batu Balong beach, on the Canggu side of town. (map)
Everywhere else is a warm-up. Old Man's is the main event.
This is the heaviest night out in town, and it feels like it. It's crowded, hot, sweaty, and completely wild. The bass is relentless, your feet stick to the floors, and the crowd between you and the bar is almost impenetrable. It also somehow manages to be both indoors (the dancefloor) and outdoors (everywhere else). Yet it still smells of a million sweaty bodies.
Honestly? It's not my thing. It's the drip-tray for the rest of the bars in Canggu, and full of the sort of people I've come away to avoid - particularly meathead dudes who think it's fight club. Yep, that's right: it's exactly like a stag weekend in Bolton. And if I wanted that... I'd have gone to Bolton.
Yet the crowds love it, so what do I know?
Equally, my tour groups always said it was a wild night. Personally, I got some chips and a beer across the road, and met them in Sandbar after.
Sandbar
- What: A Beach Club... literally.
- Where: On the beach next to Old Man's (map)
Yep. It's a club. On the beach.
And it's awesome!
In general, Sandbar is where you come to finish a hard, sweaty night. Typically, you won't even arrive until 1am, and then all hell breaks loose.
It's a two-storey shack that spills people and booze out onto the sand (and often the incoming tide). Their rotation of live DJs keep the immense sound system pumping and the party going pretty much until sunrise. Drinks are pretty damn cheap, too.
It's the afterparty of afterparties, and there are no rules. Just don't go way out into the sea naked, because the torch-wielding security team will light you up, and the whole beach will see what you're packing. Which, in the cold morning sea, isn't much.
Enjoy!
Is Backpacking Canggu Safe?
In summary:
Canggu is pretty damn safe.
It's so westernised, the biggest risk to you whilst backpacking Canggu is usually... yourself! So don't be a dick.
Although, let's look at what could go wrong for you...
Roads
The roads in Canggu are busy. The town was never designed to hold this many people.
Combine this with the fact that most of the traffic is bikes, ridden by westerners who don't know how to ride and have learned here. Basically, don't run into the road, and keep half an eye open on the pavements too.
If you're gonna ride a bike, have some idea of how to do it before you start. Also...
If you're riding a bike, wear a damn helmet.
It's the law. And, if even the laid-back Balinese have made it law, it must be a problem. Don't be the guy picking their teeth out of the tarmac.
Whilst we're talking roads...
The Shortcut is a friggin' death trap.
It's gotten better since it was closed to cars, but they've just been replaced with more bikes.
It's the thin, rickety, uneven road that connects Canggu and Berawa. With an innocent-sounding metre drop on either side into the rice paddies below, this monstrosity must be a contender for the highest road accident rate in Asia.
Regardless of road accident figures in Asia, not a day goes by without a helpless visitor plunging into the soggy paddy underneath. Keep your wits about you, and don't do it pissed.
Speaking of...
Being a twat whilst drunk
Don't do it.
First up, don't swim when drunk at night. There's a few parties happening on the beach (woo, Sandbar!), and, inevitably, some idiots decide that's their moment for a swim. The rip can be quite strong in Canggu, and drowning is considered a downer ending to a night out.
Similarly, don't drink drive. It's tragic that we even have to write this, but it's a common enough sight backpacking Canggu that here we are.
Finally, don't sink a few at Pretty Poison and decide that's a moment to try your first drop-in. It'll hurt, and they'll laugh at you.
Beach and surf safety
Canggu is full of surfers, and its easy to follow their lead out of your comfort zone.
Don't overstretch your abilities, as the surf can be very rough.
Also, never go into the sea if the red flags are out. People who know this beach better than you are saying it's too dangerous.
Drugs
We're not here to tell you not to do drugs. That's your mum's job. Or the copper that just caught you.
Just know that Indonesia's drugs laws are insanely strict, and even possession can lead to life imprisonment or the death penalty. At best, you're paying a heavy bribe.
Do your research before you decide to take a risk.
Bali Belly
Bali Belly is real. You eat something, you're sick for 24 hours, you get better.
Our stance is that trying to avoid it will ruin your trip anyway, so live life to the full, and deal with Bali Belly when it happens. It's not gonna kill you.
In a word, it sucks, but it passes.
Earthquakes and tsunamis
Indonesia is known for this. I was caught in the 2018 earthquake in Lombok.
Canggu tends to be pretty safe during these incidents. It sits in a huge natural bay that protects it from 3 sides, so tsunamis are very rare.
As for earthquakes, the buildings tend to be small and light, and will withstand all but the worst quakes.
If one happens, get outside, and follow the locals to high ground.
Nevertheless, don't let this put you off of backpacking Canggu, or coming to Bali at all. Ultimately, the rewards far outweigh the risks.
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To sum up, Canggu is going to be one of the most westernised places you visit in Bali.
And there's nothing wrong with that! In fact, that's one of its biggest draws to the influencer crowd - it's why Canggu is so popular, and why it's not gonna change anytime soon.
Hand on heart, it's not my favourite place in Bali. I'd rather hang out in Ubud or the Nusas. But I still enjoyed backpacking Canggu, and reckon you will too.
If you've used this Canggu guide for your trip, we'd love to hear from you! Let us know how it went in the comments, and if you feel we missed anything, tell us that too! If you're planning a trip and have questions, drop them there and we'll get back to you.
Thanks for hanging around with me 'til the end. See you around!
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