Sri Lanka

• What's It Like Backpacking Sri Lanka?
  • Accommodation
  • Food
  • Culture
  • Transport
  • Budget

• Best Things To Do When Backpacking Sri Lanka
  • Look for Leopards on Safari
  • Esala Perahera Festival
  • Ride the Kandy to Ella Train
  • Tyre Swing over the Beach as the Sun Sets

High in the mountains, Nuwara Eliya is one of the most important areas in Sri Lanka for producing its most famous export: tea.

Tea leaves flutter in the winds as far as the eye can see here, a green sea rippling in the breeze. The altitude and weather here make for perfect conditions for growing tea.

Whilst this may be great for the tea plants, it's noticeably colder and wetter for us humans.

You'll find the rains fall much more often than down on the beaches of Galle and Trincomalee, so be prepared.

Furthermore, the wetter weather here is directly related to the town's history. Nuwara Eliya has some of the best examples of colonial British architecture, as this was where the British retreated to during the hot summers.

Other than the tea plantations, and a stopover on the magical Kandy to Ella train, there is little to keep you entertained in this green wilderness.

For more, please read our complete guide to backpacking Nuwara Eliya here.

Ella. Sri Lanka's bohemian retreat, and enchanting home to the divine Nine Arch Bridge, Little Adam's Peak, and Ella Rock.

This was my final stop on the Kandy to Ella train (obviously...), and one I wish I had more time to explore.

The town has a real hipster vibe, with funky restaurants, cafes and shops lining the dusty roads. The town centre is exquisite, yet it is the stunning countryside and Nine Arch Bridge that draws the largest crowds.

There is something about Ella that made me fall in love with it. The only thing missing is a beach. And frankly, it doesn't need one.

For more, please read our complete guide to backpacking Ella here.

Galle is Sri Lanka's small, fortified gem in the southwest.

Its 16th-century walls are matched with astonishing architecture throughout the city, in particular the lighthouse and old Dutch hospital.

Matching the city's beauty are the stunning beaches that dress the coast around the old walls. These beaches are home to some of the best sunsets I have seen in Sri Lanka.

The best place to enjoy these sunsets is the ultra-Instagrammable tyre swing, hanging off the leaning palm that bends slowly out over the sea. A perfect way to end an evening.

The city is also where you'll find another firm favourite for those backpacking Sri Lanka: the turtle sanctuary. Here, you can see where the baby turtles are brought back to health, and released on Galle's beaches to live a full life in the wild. This sort of stuff is bucket list fuel.

For more, please read our complete guide to backpacking Galle here.

Even the most basic accommodation whilst backpacking Sri Lanka is amazing.

But not because of the accommodation itself.

What really sets Sri Lanka apart is the superb hospitality.

Pretty much everywhere you'll stay will have friendly, welcoming owners who can't do enough to help. They'll wake up early to provide the most delicious breakfasts, drive you around town in their private tuk-tuks, and quite often even invite you for an evening meal with the family.

Seriously. Their dedication and passion set the bar for the rest of the world.

So, let's start by covering the types of accommodation you're most likely to come across:

If you're on a real budget, Sri Lanka's hostels are the way forward.

Dorm rooms come at you from under 750RS (£3) a night across the country. Unlike a lot of Asia, hostels here in Sri Lanka are very conventional. Expect a shared kitchen, group activities, and maybe a games/chillout room.

Sleeping arrangements are likely split into the usual: a few private dorms, male/female-only dorms, and, of course, the lad's favourite, mixed dorms.

That said, my favourite places to stay whilst backpacking Sri Lanka are Homestays and B&Bs.

These are a massive jump up in quality and comfort, as you'll be staying with a local family who will strive to give the best impression possible.

This relative luxury does come with a hike in price too: the average homestay will cost around 3,700RS (£15) a night, depending on whereabouts you are.

This nets you a private room with an ensuite. More importantly, though, you'll have a host family. These guys will move heaven and earth to cater for you, including a truly amazing breakfast every morning.

Which is worth the upgrade on its own.

Hotels?

Well, we all know what a hotel looks like.

Again, hotels in Sri Lanka are in the conventional form. Private room, bathrooms, hotel restaurant, pool, reception... You get the picture.

Honestly, unless you have the money to burn and the hotel is top-class, I'd not bother. Stay in the homestays. You'll get more character, probably better hospitality, and a feel of local life.

If you're looking to enjoy the splendour of Sri Lanka for a significant amount of time and want a secure base for yourself, then it's all about Airbnb. Some of the apartments in Sri Lanka are out of this world, and if I had the time or money on my trip, this is where you'll find me.

It's a home away from home. Just better.

The bottom line is this: the Far Out Holy Trinity of Airbnb, Hostelworld and Booking.com will have you covered, whatever your budget. A shoutout also goes to Couchsurfing for those of us who are happily crashing on a local's sofa.

As for my personal experience, I would happily recommend every homestay, B&B and hotel I stayed at, bar one in Nuwara Eliya (which apparently, is run by Uncle Fester from the Addams Family), and one in Tissamaharama (but, then again, the more you can avoid Tissam, the happier you'll be anyway).

Throughout your time backpacking Sri Lanka, you can book accommodation the night before arriving in a new town. Just find some wifi (which is dead easy).

It is possible to rock up without any accommodation booked whatsoever and figure it out once you're there. If that makes you uneasy, then don't do it and plan ahead. But if you're happy winging it, it can be done.

Honestly, that tactic did land me with the worst accommodation of the trip (looking at you, Nuwara Eliya), however, there were still many options open. Some locals wait for the train to arrive and ambush tourists, all wanting to 'help' you into town and recommend 'great' accommodation.

Not once was I told there was no room at the inn, or felt a desperate scramble to grab the first place I could. That said, I was exploring this fantastic country in August, which is considered low season. You may find it more difficult when backpacking Sri Lanka in high season (December - April).

This leads me to these two pointers:

1. If you do leave it until you arrive in the town, local scouts will spot you a mile off. Taxi drivers, helpful locals, and the world's kindest bag carriers all know somewhere you can stay. They are on commission and are likely to have a family member who has a B&B or hotel nearby. It's not necessarily bad, but they don't have your best interests at heart.
2. Sri Lanka, like India and a lot of Asia, is built around haggling. This includes accommodation (if you haven't pre-booked online). If someone, be it a tout or a host, tells you they have a room available at a special price for you or whatever, get haggling. You should be able to get it at a cut of the price.

My final advice is this: be it in Colombo or Nuwara Eliya, you should choose where you stay based on location, and what you have planned for the area.

For example, in Kandy and Dambulla I'd recommend you stay in the heart of the action, next to the area's highlights.

However, in Ella I'd suggest booking a treetop cabin with views over the elegant valley, and surround yourself with peace, nature and wildlife.

It is now I want to bestow extra praise and give a massive shout-out to the fantastic hosts at Villa Aroshina in Galle, SA Village in Dambulla and Ella Gap View Resort in Ella. Their hospitality is incredible, and their meals, both breakfast and evening, are some of the best foods in Sri Lanka.

That is a bold claim. But one I will stick to.

Check our detailed accommodation guides for:

Colombo

Dambulla

Kandy

Nuwara Eliya

Ella

Galle

Yala and Tissamaharama

The food is the brightest star in a well-lit Sri Lankan sky.

Each mouthful of good Sri Lankan food is like winning the lottery. Or punching well above your weight on a night out.

Having eaten my way around Sri Lanka, I feel that only India can compare when it comes to flavour. And, much like India, you do not have to worry about portion size. I was never in any fear that I'd finish a meal still hungry. And anyone who's met me will tell you, portions are important.

I've never been one for a breakfast, unless a decent fry-up is on offer. However, when I was backpacking Sri Lanka breakfast became one of my favourite meals. There is a lot to be said for waking up to a table full of freshly picked fruits, melt in the mouth pancakes, triple-egg omelettes, soft breads and crumbling pastries, all washed down with a Sri Lankan cuppa.

I could get used to that.

Good news for vegetarians! The vast majority of Sri Lankan dishes are veggie-friendly (and many of those are vegan-friendly, too).

Wonderful, creamy dishes such as pumpkin, cashew and/or coconut curry are aplenty, full to the brim of spiced, vibrant flavours, with rich colours and textures from crunchy nuts to soft, creamy beans.

Those who enjoy a good chunk of meat, do not worry. Chicken and goat are just two ingredients expertly mixed into the above dishes, adding further tantalising tastes. It was nearly enough to make me cry.

Keep an extra eye out for hoppers, (a rice and coconut pancake), dhal curries, and the differing styles of roti (a thin round flatbread). I'm salivating at the thought.

There is an incredible depth and richness to this island and its people. Therefore, as you would expect, there's an endless supply of culture to experience, learn and enjoy.

No matter what segment of Sri Lankan culture you are exploring, you will be left in awe. Be it the cuisine, the religion, the wildlife, sport, the passion to retain its heritage, or local traditions such as stilt fishing, it's fascinating.

Buddism is the largest religion in Sri Lanka, with just over 70% of the population identifying as such. Although, you'll also find a good mix of Hinduism, Islam and Christianity across the country.

It is said that after the Buddha's cremation, his remains were divided between his most loyal eight followers. One of these eighths is said to be in the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy. This makes Kandy one of the most sacred cities in the world for Buddhists.

The temple of the Tooth is also the starting point for one of the most important and celebrated festivals in the Sri Lankan Buddhist calendar, the Esala Perahera festival.

This festival takes place over 10 days, starting and ending each day at the Temple of the Tooth.

Each day, a procession of dancers, musicians, fire dancers and decorated elephants leave the temple and make their way around the town. The procession grows in size each night like a carnival, and draws in crowds from across the island. Whilst the ethics of using elephants are questionable at best, I can't deny the overall parade is mightily impressive to watch.

Ultimately, it was a real privilege for me to witness, as I never knew about it prior to my time in Sri Lanka. Consequently, I would suggest you try and book your trip to Sri Lanka around this wonderful display of passion, history and culture.

It's that good.

Sport is huge in Sri Lanka, and despite volleyball being the national sport, cricket is by far the most popular. You'll find matches going on across the country.

Tradition is key to the Sri Lankan people, and there is real pride in the country when it comes to keeping these skills alive.

One example of this is the historic ways of the stilt fishermen on the south coast. The fisherman sit on two sticks in a cross formation, called a petta, built just offshore, and wait. Then, when they get a bite they reel in their catch. They can stay out there for hours. Having tried to climb on one myself, I can tell you its an impressive feat.

These lethal skills have been passed from generation to generation, and their deadly results are incredible, not to mention, highly impressive.

Another key point is cities such as Colombo are also renovating old buildings on a large scale. This includes painstaking restorations on the old facades, restoring them to their former glory. I, for one, am pleased to see this work being carried out, as were the locals. History may not have always been kind to Sri Lanka, but it has made it was it is today, and that's a cultural, spiritual, wonderful island.

On the whole, backpacking Sri Lanka has many highlights. But, for me, the safari in Yala National Park easily takes its place at the top of this list.

Notably, it was the single most expensive thing I did in Sri Lanka. I didn't care though, because it was also the best.

Our guides put in so much effort, and you could just tell they really care about your experience. They want you to see a leopard as much as you do. Their dedication is inspiring, and their passion for conservation is heartwarming.

This is noticeable during the safari, but it truly stands out once you compare it to another safari experience. For me, that was India, and even though I saw the Indian tiger (bucket list: tick!), the overall experience wasn't as good as here in Yala.

The crown jewel of Yala National Park is the leopards, but there's an array of colourful, fantastic wildlife on display throughout. Alongside the leopards, we found elephants, crocodiles, buffalo, monkeys, huge, colourful birds, and much more.

Despite so many creatures inhabiting the National Park, you find yourself gazing as much at the magnificent, unspoiled landscape. It's a phenomenal natural habitat, with one of the best beaches I had ever seen. There are luscious lakes and fantastic bushland for the wildlife to hide. It was a picture of heaven for wildlife lovers, conservationists and naturalists alike.

Even when you aren't surrounded by the wild animals or hitting a mud patch, you're still enjoying the thrill of the drive.

The small 4x4s race around the dusty tracks, in search of movement from within the bush. You could find anything at any moment, and that is almost as exciting as spotting the big cats.

It's sensational, and I highly recommend you give it a go.

The safari in Yala National Park was the best safari I have done - period.

The Esala Perahera is an annual celebration in the central city of Kandy, and is the most important Buddhist celebration in Sri Lanka.

The festival dates change year upon year, depending on the full moon. Generally, it's the end of July or beginning of August.

My advice is to do your research, and try to make sure your arrival in Kandy coincides with the Escala Perahera.

Starting at the elegant temple of the tooth, the procession weaves its way through the city over the course of 10 days, giving as many people the chance to see it as possible. Each day the parade grows in size, until the final day where miles of fire dancers, musicians, elephants, dancers and more take to the streets.

The atmosphere is electric, and the party vibes are as warming as the flames of the fire dancers. The costumes are all as loud as the musicians, and it all makes for quite a spectacle.

It is so good I would suggest you plan your whole time backpacking Sri Lanka around the Esala Perahera, if possible.

Disclaimer - I do not, and never will, condone using wildlife in circuses, zoos, or for any form of entertainment. They should be, as their name states: wild. This tradition has been going on for centuries, and it is seen as a real honour to take part. As such, and in keeping with Buddhist values, the elephants are well looked after. Granted, they still use chains, and that saddened me. That said, to my unexpert eye they seemed happy, healthy, and had amazing bonds with those looking after them.

Instantly more recognisable than the festival above, this epic journey soars through the living, breathing countryside of Sri Lanka.

You've probably seen the shot a million times on Instagram. Some apparent nutter hanging out the door of the blue train, with a gorgeous backdrop of tea plantations and mountains.

It looks idyllic, dreamy, and one of those 'paradise moments' travellers long for, and we talk about on here a lot.

Well, I tried this one. And trust me, there is nothing like standing in an open train door as you rally through the countryside with the wind in your hair.

It's unique and completely absurd, at least to us Europeans. But as long as you dodge, duck, dip, dive and dodge your way past obstacles, you'll have the time of your life.

And, ultimately, it is.

However, that's only half the story. The rest of the journey is one of mayhem, madness and pure chaos.

No matter where you sit, be it first, second or third-class, your experience will be one to remember. For drastically different reasons.

I was back in third-class, trying not to die. By the time it came to hanging out the door, I was wondering if it was, indeed, preferable to let go.

This experience is one that will change you. What I mean by that is, you won't be able to take it all in until you get off.

That is in part because the carriages are crammed full of people. There'll be elbows and sweaty armpits in your face, and some annoying git standing on your toes. Therefore, your emotions may not be in a position to enjoy the experience. Yet still, somehow, you're happy to be there.

It's something I wouldn't normally comprehend, let alone encourage. Yet I am.

In essence, its the best train journey I've ever been on.

The views, the laughter, and the experiences are second to none. It is honestly something you must do whilst backpacking Sri Lanka.

Magical moments and bucket list items are what this section is all about. This final jaw-dropping selection is just as special, and, in some ways, even more picture-perfect.

Set amid the exquisite, narrow Dalawella Beach outside the city of Galle, this delightful rope swing is made for Instagrammers and romantics alike.

With the fading sun as the backdrop, you fling yourself from the perfectly arched, rough and rugged palm out over crystal waters. And you can only be one thing; happy.

It feels as if you're floating, with nothing but the glorious ocean and white sands below, whilst the sun dances magically on the horizon above. Coupled with the ambience from the small beach shack below, chilled music, and a beer in hand, this experience is magic.

It's not as prolonged as the other experiences above, it gave something the others couldn't. I think that speaks louder than a photo.

I will say, I feel that a tyre on a rope dangling from a tree should probably be free, but it's not. However, it does give another of those elusive, beautiful paradise moments, and you simply can't miss it.

Clothing and Shoes

Sri Lanka, on the whole, has a steady climate and basks in glorious sunshine most of the year.

Admittedly, around the coast you will get that cooling sea breeze on a late evening. But, in general, it's going to be hot.

As a result, you'll need to pack light shoes, such as a firm pair of flip flops ('thongs' to our Aussie contingent), as they are light, breathable and comfy.

Alternatively, a pair of lightweight canvas sneakers would be great for backpacking Sri Lanka, or a pair of ultralight sports trainers.

Alongside both of these light options are a good pair of walking shoes/boots. These are for those longer or tricky hikes, specifically Sigiriya Rock, Ella Rock and Adam's Peak.

Due to the Sri Lankan heat, shorts are the name of the game. You'll need three pairs when backpacking Sri Lanka, one in the wash, one to wear, and the other on standby ready for action.

Similarly, thanks to the heat, vests and t-shirts will be your number one option. I'd suggest five T-shirts and a few vests thrown in, as they're lightweight.

When it comes to T-shirts, ideally they will need to cover your shoulders. It will make life a lot easier when trying to go to religious sites, such as Dambulla Caves and the Temple of the Tooth.

Speaking of which, you will see tourists, male and female, in shorts and short skirts walking around some temples, both here and in other Asian countries. Yes, they may have 'gotten away with it', but that doesn't make it right. Whether you agree with certain rules and regulations in other countries, we have to respect their beliefs and culture. So please follow the rules.

In comparison, the central highlands are colder and often wet. Hence, this is where you'll find the tea plantations.

Luckily, the chances are you'll only be up here for a short period, so a single lightweight waterproof jacket is essential. For me, there are only two options, both of which I have with me when travelling. Like the backpacks, they're pricey but well worth the money and will last forever. They are Regatta and North Face.

Similarly, I'd throw in one jumper or hoody for those cold, cosy nights in the likes of Ella and Nuwara Eliya.

Electronics

My first choice of electronics is a solid travel adapter, one with as many USB ports as is feasible to keep all your gear on the go and protect against any dodgy electrics.

We recommend the iBlockCube. It's got tons of sockets, as there will be a time when you'll need to charge all your gear quickly at once before you shoot off again, and it's a case of more is better.

You will want your gear charged here, especially when you're out on safari. Can you imagine spotting the leopard, only to find the battery has decided to die at the same time?

For this reason, I also took my portable charger on safari, safely tucked away in a bag to protect it from the sand. As it turns out, I didn't need it, but with such a special experience, it's better to be safe than sorry. Our resident Far Out tech expert Charlie recommends and carries an Anker, and having witnessed it in action I'd be happy to stick my less-than-tech-minded name on that.

Something I wish I had for Sri Lanka that I didn't have, and wouldn't carry with me around the world, is a big-ass telephoto lens.

The likes of Sri Lanka, India and Kenya could justify such a lens, largely due to the safaris. However, it's more likely something to hire specifically for a single trip. I do wish I had taken one with me for the Sri Lankan safari. If you're into your photography, consider getting one.

Toiletries

Much like India, toilet paper is something that you should consider for Sri Lanka. Whilst not as well documented, the food and sanitary situation in Sri Lanka can cause some 'delicate' issues. Admittedly, it's not as pressing an issue as in India, but I do advise a soft roll somewhere in your bag.

Bags

When it comes to backpacks, both Charlie and I always recommend either Berghaus or Osprey. You should aim to buy anything around 65 litres for your main bag, and something in the region of 15 litres for a day bag. These sizes do differ depending on height and strength.

Whatever you choose, make sure it is comfy, has decent waterproofing, contains areas for a reusable water bottle, camera, and has a safe or hidden area for your valuables.

Female Travellers

The advice for what to pack for females in Sri Lanka, it's more about clothing than cosmetics.

Firstly, sarongs. Whilst not essential, they are very helpful for covering your knees when entering religious sites. If your sarong has a split down the side, you may still be given strange looks, or asked to tie it better. In some more touristy countries, these rules are somewhat lax. Not here. You must cover your knees.

Secondly, pack or purchase a pashmina or a shawl. Similarly to the sarong, use this when entering a religious site and you have to cover your shoulders.

Finally, much like the above two suggestions, when it comes to beachwear, we have to suggest a bathing suit rather than a bikini. When we were on Jungle Beach near Galle, females wearing bikinis were not allowed in the water. Sri Lankan females were swimming and playing in the sea fully clothed. They wore jeans, t-shirts and religious headdresses.

My friend wasn't allowed in and had to remain on the beach purely for wearing a bikini.

Other

When it comes to water bottles, we always urge you to only drink from reusable bottles, and avoid single-use plastic bottles. This goes double when backpacking Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka is in the top six countries worldwide for polluting the seas with plastic, which for its size is devastating. Do not add to their problems. If in doubt about this, head over to Netflix and watch A Plastic Ocean to get an idea of the scale of this problem.

Luckily, Charlie is a bit of a nerd with this stuff and says he has come up with the best reusable bottle. He swears by it. Apparently, his Lifestraw bottle is eco-friendly and can turn river water into drinking water. He is still with us, so that's all I need for proof. 

Next up, having seen the terrible standard of driving here in Sri Lanka, I advise each and every one of you to carry an entire hospital with you. However, if you're not Arnie, a first aid kit will have to do.

Keep it lightweight and compact, but full of useful gear. Plasters aren't going to help in some situations. Make sure it's got sufficient equipment for more than a booboo.

I always carry one on the road and rate this pack from Amazon. What I like about this one is that you have a smaller, lighter case within it, suitable for your day pack and hiking.

Please also make sure, and I'm guilty of this myself, that when you use something, replace it!

It's also worth adding in dioralyte, just in case a couple of dishes disagree with your internal workings.

Travel insurance is needed if you're backpacking Sri Lanka. Whilst I luckily never needed to use any of the hospitals, doctors, or medical services, as mentioned numerous times, travelling on the roads is a sketchy experience. If you get injured here, I'd wager this is how it happens.

If you do get injured, insurance is vital to avoid being liable for literally thousands in medical bills. It simply isn't worth the risk of backpacking Sri Lanka without any form of insurance.

Again, like most of my insurance advice in Asia, make sure you have cover for illness and injury, not just lost or stolen baggage, money, or gadgets.

In general, backpacking Sri Lanka is safe.

The country has a troubled, war-torn past, which still on occasions rears its ugly head. Despite the civil war ending in May 2009, there has been the occasional attack by the extremist Tamil Tigers, leading to mass casualties.

In 2019 more than 350 people were killed in a Jihadi attack at churches and hotels in the country, but terrorism is very rare in Sri Lanka.

Outside of wars and terrorist attacks, the most prominent issue for tourists is minor theft. You need to be extra vigilant where crowds gather such as a market place. Pickpockets tend to congregate there, hidden in plain sight.

Whether you're backpacking Sri Lanka solo or as part of a group, if you're younger or older, male or female, the same rules apply. Be vigilant, be sensible, and keep your wits about you. But at the same time, enjoy yourself.

As with a lot of Asian countries, white travellers will attract a lot of attention, particularly females. Particularly if you're female, be careful about who you accept drinks and free lifts from, especially at night.

Generally speaking, this attention can be annoying, but it's not done with malice. In fact, if you're a white person, male or female, backpacking Sri Lanka, you will more than likely be asked for a photo. Sri Lankans are inquisitive and love photos with white people.

There are no major warnings for us to report here really. This country deserves your attendance, just as you deserve to see the beauty of Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka, formerly Ceylon, has had a checkered history throughout its 125,000 years or so, since humans first inhabited the island.

The country's past is entwined with religion. Buddism, and the stories that lie within, has affected every part of Sri Lanka's past, and still play a massive role in current-day living.

Stories of the Buddha himself leaving footprints on the land, as well as the Hindu gods Rama and Sita moving between Sri Lanka and India, are, in part, the bases for how the people of Sri Lanka live today.

Islam appeared in Sri Lanka in the earth 7th century, shortly after trade with the Arab nations was made possible via the Indian ocean.

By the time the Portuguese muscled in in 1505, trade was roaring across Ceylon. This brought with it yet another religion, Christianity, which quickly spread across the coastal regions the Portuguese colonised.

By the time the Dutch arrived on Ceylon's shores in 1602, the spice trade was seen to be massively important, bringing in unforeseen amounts of money for the ruling powers.

The British saw the island as a strategic location to dominate the other European superpowers in and around India, and thus took control from 1802.

In 1815, the British took the Kingdom of Kandy becoming the first, and only, European nation to unify the entire country. The island became a vital base during World War II, and was heavily bombarded by the Japanse army. British forces, along with the Canadians, Australian, Indian and Sri Lankan forces, defended the island, suffering heavy losses.

After the war, the island gained its independence from the British in 1948, over 350 years of European rule.

Since 1948 the country has seen many infractions of peace, generally internally with the pre-mentioned Tamil groups fighting against the Sinhalese for control and power.

In 1972, Ceylon changed its name to Sri Lanka, further cementing its independence and nationalisation. This led to further tensions within the country as Buddhism was declared as the main religion, causing the Islamic Tamil people to increase their violence, which led to the civil war which lasted over 25 years, until ceasefire was declared in 2009.