Berlin, Germany - A Travel Guide
Last Updated: September 22, 2025
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ABOUT BERLIN | SHOULD I GO? | WHAT TO DO | WHERE TO STAY | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO PARTY
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A Checkpoint for Any Traveller
Berlin, Germany's legendary capital city, is found to the northeast of the country, is split by the meandering Spree River, and is situated only a 2-hour drive from the Polish border. This magical city - now at thankfully one - has had some of the most turbulent times any city has ever seen. So much so that the city itself should be classed as a museum.
The area we now know as Berlin is believed to have first been settled in 1174, but it wasn’t until 1237 that the city was founded formally. Nowadays the city has around 7 and a half million inhabitants, making it the 5th largest city in Europe behind Istanbul, Moscow, London, and St Petersburg.
The city has only recently found peace after being devastated by internal and external wars: almost being obliterated in the 30 Year War, bombed during the World Wars and internally in 1945, when the country and the city were split into 4 territories, eventually becoming two: West Germany and East Germany, which only reunited in 1991 after the destruction of the Berlin Wall.
Nowadays, the city plays host to some of Europe's most famous architecture, such as the Reichstag and Brandenburg Gates. But it is probably best known for its world-famous Christmas Markets which engulf the city year after year.
First Ever Far Out Tour
Berlin is the location of the first-ever Far Out tour, which took place in the Christmas of 2016. Both of us, along with our friend Beth, flew out to soak in the festivities in the city we had heard so much about.
We had 5 days in this wonderful city and we intended to make the most of it, seeing the likes of the Brandenburg Gates, the remainder of the Berlin Wall, Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp, not to mention watching Hertha BSC play at the Olympic stadium.
There is no city in the world, other than maybe Rome and London, where you can learn so much and try to understand how what has happened there has affected not just the city or the country, but the world. Even the football match was a prime example, watching Berlin at the (in)famous Olympic Stadium, where Jesse Owens famously won at the 1936 Olympics.
Of course, we were also in the city to sample the Christmas Markets, a tradition that has expanded the world over. We visited so many different markets, eating fire-roasted meats and sampling the Glühwein, even if at times it was only 9 AM.
Coming to Berlin at Christmas was a great call. The city has a special glow to it and it’s fair to say we loved every second, even if we did wake up with some horrendous hangovers!
It was thanks to this trip that Greg managed to convince Charlie that travelling was the best way to experience life, and led to the then 3-year-old dream of Greg’s to build Far Out.
So Should I go there?
There is no doubt in our minds that you should visit Berlin, the only question you should be asking yourself is when? Specifically, what time of year?
Do you want to see the city during the festive period, taking in the sublime atmosphere, experiencing the Christmas Markets and the city in lights? Or do you come during the summer months, where the temperatures are more in agreement with t-shirts and shorts, when the crowds aren’t blocking your way around the city and the attractions are more easily accessible? That is your call. But it should be a question of 'when' you go, not 'if'.
The city has an appeal to it unlike most, and once you’re there it draws you in deeper and deeper, like drinking at a good bar, until you're intoxicated with it. Before long it has your heart captured with its lavish architecture, friendly people, and a perhaps surprising willingness to explain its history to you.
No matter how brutal and how bad things have gotten, the cities inhabitants are willing to leave the history in place, such as parts of the Berlin Wall for people to come, see and learn. It is a reminder of the past, but it is almost a statement of ‘Look how far we’ve come, and we can do even better.’, and we both love that.
Any aspiring historian should be making this a priority on their ‘to visit’ list, as should anyone with an ounce of childhood left inside them. The city gives you that feeling of waking up as a child on Christmas day: full of excitement, wonder and curiosity at what the day could bring.
What to do when Backpacking Berlin
Berlin is packed with history and culture, so the chances are you could be in the city a couple of weeks and never be bored. There's a museum for every day of the week in the city. In fact, there's even an island called Museum Island.
If you happen to believe there's more to life than museums (what's wrong with you?!), there is still plenty to keep you entertained, whether you are into green spaces, architecture, nightlife, history or sports, it’s all here in the city for you to enjoy at your leisure.
Before we begin, the one thing you will have to remember and accept about the city is its past. It isn’t always pretty and there are some upsetting reminders scattered around, so if that's not something you want to see or think would be too upsetting, then we suggest you miss those bits out, but be aware you may stumble across it.
In no particular order here are some of the highlights of Berlin:
Berlin Wall
Located around 35 minutes walk north of the Brandenburg Gate, the remaining part of the Berlin Wall and the associated monument to those who lost their lives is a stark reminder some of Berlin's recent and brutal history. It was only in 1991 that the wall that divided a nation was removed, creating the unified Germany we know today.
The concrete wall was originally built in 1961 to divide East and West Germany, with tensions running high on both sides between the Russian-owned communist east and the English, American and French west. Those who lived on the east of the wall were left in a precarious state, with hunger and poverty rife, and the divide steadily became more than just about the wall, but the way of life between the two sides.
There really isn't much left, but what remains of the northern part of the wall gives you a small insight into the lives of those that lived and died with the wall as their back garden. It really is a sad reminder of how horrendously people can treat one another, but if you feel you could learn from this experience and or feel able to see it, we highly suggest you do. The memorial around the site is very humbling too.
Reichstag
The Reichstag building was first opened in 1894 and became the home of the German parliament until 1933, when the building suffered a massive fire. The cause of this fire was officially the communist party, although some historians say it was so beneficial to the Nazi party it was likely them who started it, not the communist party who were blamed at the time.
After the fire, it became the meeting place of the Nazi party, who rose to power not long after. It is probably this period of time that the Reichstag is best known, draped in swastikas and serving as the backdrop to the infamous speech by Hitler in 1939.
Since the end of the Second World War, after once again receiving substantial damage, the building was left to ruin until Germany was unified in 1990. Reconstruction on the Reichstag was once again commissioned and the seat of the German parliament brought back here again.
Today the building also accepts visitors from around the world, who have the pleasure of going into the 360-degree glass dome which sits atop the building with views out across the capital. You can enter the building and walk around the dome for free and visit the rooftop café, however, if you want any additional extras (which you don’t really need), then you will have to get tickets. You will need some form of ID to enter and you can expect large queues, as it is a very popular tourist destination.
Brandenburg Gate
One of the most instantly recognisable buildings in Germany, the Brandenburg Gate lies just to the south of the Reichstag and serves as the eastern entrance to the Großer Tiergarten park.
Built in 1791 as a symbol of peace, the gate has played a massive role in the history of Berlin ever since its construction. They were one of the main gateways between East and West Germany and have been the backdrop to many peace speeches and protests, famously including those of US presidents JFK and Reagan.
The gates were also the scene of the unification of Germany in October 1990, with the raising of the unified German flag over the gate.
The gate ought to be high on your list of places to see during your time in the city. It was for us and we actually came back again - because of the gate's political role throughout the 20th and 21st century, as well as the architectural genius that makes it such an admired memorial. Also because it was about 4 minutes from our hostel.
Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp
In the small town of Oranienburg, 22 miles north of Berlin you will find a grim reminder of the persecution of thousands, mainly Jews and Soviet prisoners of war during the reign of Hitler and the Nazi Party.
Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp, built in 1936, was never built to be an extermination camp, it was to serve as a prison for Soviet prisoners and Jews, with the intention that the prisoners would help rebuild Berlin. Slowly more and more prisoners started arriving, and conditions within the camp rapidly descended. Many prisoners were shipped from here to some of the most feared camps, such as Auschwitz, and to manage the numbers arriving, the prison soon became an execution site.
Today, even though a number of the camp's buildings have been demolished, tours still guide people around the site. It's eerie. No birds come here, it's just rugged, utilitarian nothingness.
You enter through the main gates, emblazoned with the sinister “Arbeit macht frei” (work sets you free), which form part of the administration building, and out into the camp. Much of the site was demolished after the war, but the tour takes you around the foundations of the prison block, some reconstructed accommodation buildings, past the execution pits and through to the execution building, where you see the brutal, cold efficiency of the Nazi war machine. The building has been destroyed, but you can see the floor plan clearly, including the gas chambers, the 'height gauge' which will be explained in the museum and by your guide, and the ovens. It is a tragic, humbling and powerful sight. Writing this is quite emotional.
We understand this isn’t something everyone will want or be able to do, but its story is something we can all learn from.
Access to the site is free, however, we reckon it's best to take a tour, many of which start in Berlin. The tour only cost €15 (~£13) per person, which covered absolutely everything and we think it was easily worth that. Our one note would be that the guide was a little over the top on some of his views, which he probably should have kept to himself (a 10-minute comparison between Trump and Hitler, anyone?).
Jewish Memorial
Back in the heart of Berlin and located just south of the Brandenburg Gate, you will see another haunting side of Berlin’s and Europe’s past in the Jewish Memorial. This large, simple memorial speaks more words than any photo or any one of us could, and it is this simplicity that makes the figures even more hard-hitting.
The area is covered with 2711 rectangular blocks of varying heights, each with enough gap to the next block for you to walk between, making the memorial maze-like. They gradually change height, creating a rippling, undulating wave effect.
It is free to wander the memorial, and it is a really humbling moment making your way through the narrow walkways. Under the memorial, you will find a second level which goes on to show the names of every Jewish person killed, amongst other artefacts, and only costs €3 (£2.60) per person.
We highly recommend this memorial. As mentioned, it really makes you think about the sheer number of people murdered because of their beliefs and birth, and how parallels can still be found today. This is a must - even if you only walk the maze-like ground-level section of the monument.
Weirdly, whilst the 2711 blocks are spectacular, there is absolutely no symbolism to that number whatsoever. Maybe it's all they could fit?
Victory Column
Not as famous as the Brandenburg Gate perhaps, but still a Berlin icon is the stupendous Victory Column, on the west side of the peaceful and wonderful Großer Tiergarten park.
Opened in 1873, this 67-metre tall memorial is a dedication to the victories of the Prussian empire that ruled most of Europe at the time. That 67 metre includes the 8.3-metre tall statue that perches on the roof of the column
Entrance into the column costs €3, which buys you the 270 step climb to the observation tower. The views are spectacular and let’s be honest, most people can find €3 down the back of the sofa.
That said, we feel going up the Reichstag is more beneficial. Firstly it's free, and it provides a better experience and view, especially as the best view of the column in our opinion is to view it from the park at night when it is all lit up, showing the statue in all its glory.
Berlin Cathedral Church
Whilst we didn’t actually go in the cathedral, both of us admired it from the outside on more than one occasion. Completed in 1905, this cathedral is possibly the most iconic religious building in the city.
To be honest, we don't have a good reason why we didn’t go inside, apart from time restrictions. We loved its architecture, design and everything about it. Tickets should you wish to enter cost €7 (£6), and we should imagine the view from the dome to be spectacular, as per the dome in the Reichstag.
Checkpoint Charlie
Another one from the Far Out history tour of Berlin for you now.
For some reason, we found this one difficult to find and had to get our phones out to locate it. No surprise really: it has a slightly different feel to how it would have been during the mid to late 1900s, what with the KFC sign now leaning over the scene, but worth visiting all the same.
Checkpoint Charlie was one of the gateways during the cold war between communist East Germany and the English, American, and French West Germany. After 1962 it became the only gate that non-Germans were allowed to use to cross from east to west or vice versa.
The checkpoint is probably most famous for its 1961 tank standoff, one of the few points that historians believe World War 3 could truly have started. This isn't the place for a full history lesson, but you can find out about it at the Checkpoint (or Wikipedia, that works too...).
Having found the checkpoint, we paid too much for a photo each with the 'guards' posing in American hats and coats. It's a complete tourist gimmick and the guys were pricks but it was a laugh. And we couldn't not get a photo of Charlie at Checkpoint Charlie.
The museum opposite the checkpoint has much more information and interesting exhibits relating to the working life of Checkpoint Charlie. It's a solid museum and well worth visiting, particularly to learn the importance of this small checkpoint and the role it played in the Cold War.
Tickets for the museum cost €12.50 ( ~£11). That is a lot for what you get, but we actually say it's worth the spend here. Yes, we had been to the checkpoint and had a somewhat tense laugh with the 'soldiers', but it was nothing like what was there during the cold war, and the museum filled in the story perfectly. It was nice to say we had been to the checkpoint, but the museum, on the other hand, actually had the real artefacts and information.
Olympic Stadium
The Olympic Stadium was built to showcase the 1936 Olympic Games, which quickly became known for the Nazi propaganda as much as it was for its sporting achievements. When Hitler ordered the construction he wanted to show the world how great his party was and what they could achieve, and that by showcasing such a grand stadium and the biggest and best Olympic games, he could do just that.
It feels a little odd to say this, given who commissioned the stadium, but its an incredible place. It screams industrialism, with the towering, beautiful stone stadium and the Olympic rings held aloft outside, looking like they are beaten from a dull bronze and displayed between two pillars like the Eye of Sauron.
Nowadays, the stadium has a lowered permanent capacity of 74,475 and hosts Hertha Berlin football club. We were fortunate enough to go and watch them play, and having bought the scarves and taking our seat in the freezing stands, we got to watch a truly terrible game of football, with Berlin losing 1-0.
That didn’t take the shine off the atmosphere one little bit; if you are in the city you really should see the stadium in one form or another. You can get a real feel for how the Olympic Games of 1936 must have felt, and knowing now what followed the games it feels like an important part of history, despite the renovations.
The stadium is only a short train journey from the centre of the city, and if you have a ticket for the game you get free travel to and from the stadium, so it has to be worth it even if you don’t like football.
Christmas Markets
Whilst seasonal, the Christmas markets are one of the first things we all think of when it comes to Berlin. They were also our number one reason for our trip.
The first thing to mention is that there are over 70 markets in Berlin any given year, all differing in size, entertainment, shops, food outlets and drinking huts. Each market brought something unique and special to the festivities, so we have to recommend you wander around and give a couple a go.
Don’t just attend one and think you’ve done them all because you haven’t.
Every market was brilliant, but we did have a couple of favourites and they were the Alexanderplatz, for its scale, the traditional Gendarmenmarkt which is a short walk north from Checkpoint Charlie, the magnificent Neptunbrunnen just over the river from the Berlin Dome, up against the wonderful backdrop of St. Mary's Church.
The reason we enjoyed these markets was the range of things on offer, from fantastic food huts that filled the air with the wafts of mulled wine and roasted meats to stalls peddling Christmas trinkets and gadgets, as well as a number of bars and alcohol huts to warm from the piercingly fresh air outside. The atmosphere is electric in all the markets but these ones just had that edge over many of the others. It was hard to leave each one and move on through our market tour to be honest; we were in our winter paradise.
If you are looking for more of an exhilarating Christmas market then you should look no further than Wintertraum am Alexa, complete with a funfair, rides, food and drink stalls, the lot. It would also be great if you have kids with you. There was more of a funfair atmosphere here, with music, bright lights and laughter.
You can't help but be in a good mood in these wonderful market squares.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking Berlin
As always in Europe, there are a number of different types of accommodation within the German capital, and they come with vastly differing prices. You will not struggle to find accommodation; it will be more a case of working out your budget and going from there.
Berlin has hundreds of Airbnb apartments and homes for you to choose from depending on where in the city you want to stay, how many of you are on tour, and what standard of accommodation you expect. You really cannot go wrong with a good Airbnb. We love them.
On this occasion, we found a hostel, which is always another safe bet, cheaper than most other types of accommodation, and much more lively. Hostels are always great for meeting other travellers.
Like in Munich, we stayed right next to the main train station, which is always a good bit of advice in Germany as they tend to locate the stations in the middle of the city, and not too far from the attractions.
We stayed at Meinninger Hotel Berlin Hauptbahnhof. We would be more than happy to recommend this basic hostel as it had everything we needed, comfy rooms, clean surroundings, friendly and helpful staff, an onsite restaurant and a short walk from the main sights in the city. It did lack some of the community feel of other hostels we've stayed at, such as the Flying Pig in Amsterdam. We shared a four-man dorm between the three of us and it was perfect.
It was great value for money, with beds in a dorm room starting from €12.35 (~£10.50) offseason and up to €36 (~£31) during the summer months. You can also book single or double rooms at an added cost, to which you’ll be looking at around the €70 - €80 (£60 - £70) per night. We paid the lower end of these values as we were doing Berlin on the cheap, so it pays to shop around, and don’t accept the first price you see.
Where to Eat When Backpacking Berlin
Due to the fact that both of us had come to Berlin to check out the Christmas Markets, we tended to eat at them too. This means that unfortunately, we cannot recommend too many restaurants and cafes in the city. I think we may need to come back!
What we can recommend when it comes to food is the Christmas Markets. Not much use if you're here in July, but if you're here in late November or December - great news!
We visited a good number of the markets, wining and dining in most. We tried our fair share of bratwurst,
We did, however, manage to leave the markets on the odd occasion, finding two restaurants that we would be happy to eat again and again, and therefore recommend to you.
The first is a little place next to the Reichstag called Populär. This typical German cafe/restaurant is attached to a souvenir shop, which is a little strange for a restaurant.
There was nothing special about this place at all, and whilst that may have you wondering why we're recommending it, we will explain. The place looks average at best. The staff are decent, but nothing magical, and the food doesn't look overly special. We only had a dessert, a hot drink and a takeaway milkshake.
The desserts were out of this world. SO good! And ever so moreish. The flavours were incredible and more than justify a short break to take the weight off your feet for a while.
The other place worth a mention, and the only place we had a proper meal out of the markets, was Mangiare Opera Italiana, a wonderful Italian outside of Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace).
We had one of the most delicious minestrone soups to warm us from the winter chill, which was followed up by a tasty lasagna for Greg, whilst Charlie championed the pizza. We both loved every bite and felt the service was sensational, much like the whole ambience of the restaurant and the outlook onto the palace.
Where to Drink and Party when Backpacking Berlin
Much like the 'where to eat' section, we mostly drank in the markets, which - whilst brilliant fun, exciting and full of drunken memories - doesn't help in writing a blog. Whilst our day drinking was confined to the markets, our evening drinks were most definitely not.
We will not talk too much more about the markets as we've mentioned them quite a bit over the last few paragraphs, just be sure to treat yourself with the Glühwein or the massive steins of pilsner.
Our shameless top recommendation for nightlife in the city is to join the original Berlin pub tour which meets every night at the One 80° hotel, just down the road from Alexanderplatz Bahnhof. At a cost of €12 (~£10), this is a must. It is a guided tour around some of Berlin's best bars, followed up by one of the nightclubs.
The carnage was epic. It's probably the most chaotic night we've had together, with vague memories of Greg holding up the entire tour whilst he explored a hedge and Charlie downing a bottle of rum with some of the locals in the club. We couldn't tell you too much about it, due to being so sloshed, but the tour was fantastic, free drinks were aplenty, great locations, fantastic people (Charlie went to stay with an Aussie he met on this tour), and one very patient, fun guide. You will be treated to a fantastic Berlin welcome. Highly recommended.
There are a number of brilliant bars all around the capital, and if there is one thing Germany is known for it's their beer, and the vast number of beers will take you a good few weeks to get through. So dive in, and give as many a try as you can.
What You'll Need to Blend In
A hat and scarf for the winter months
A hasty walking pace
Be able to hold a stein. Whilst very drunk.
Be single. Half the population are.
Love a good smoke. My god, everyone smokes.