A Guide to Haifa, Israel: Foodies, Brace Yourself!
Last Updated: July 29, 2026
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Who Needs Leg Day when You Have Hafia, Israel
From the Industrial Port on the Mediterranean Sea to soaring hills where university students study to become hipsters, it is easy to see why the city is called the San Francisco of Israel.
With numerous layers, viewing platforms and outstanding views over the green Bahai Gardens and the city beyond, you will spend most of your time going up or down hills. It's bloody mountainous!
You'll need to climb hundreds and hundreds of steps. Your calves will burn so much that no spin class will ever scare you again. Therefore, I advise you to do some training before you visit.
Having spent a few nights in Haifa as part of my Israel and Palestine tour in 2023, I am here to share everything I learnt about the city. In this guide to Haifa, I will talk you through the best attractions, captivating yet, oddly bizarre bars, the most incredible restaurants in Israel and, of course, where to stay.
Are you fit enough for this one? I hope so because we're going for it.
What's Haifa, Israel Like?
Haifa is like a layered wedding cake, only on a grand scale and with what feels like millions of steps.
Firstly, you have the base.
In Haifa, that's the crashing sea, the flirting of sandy beaches and the loud, kinetic and busy industrial port. Large winding roads weave around the foot of Mount Carmel, caressing the shore. Similarly, the trains run along the coast to the port, which, in turn, clinks and clanks with the movement of vast cranes, scurrying people, honking vehicles and ships docking, loading and unloading before retreating into the Med.
Secondly, there's the middle tier, which here in Haifa, is for the markets, the shops and the homes.
You'll find fashionable districts where street art guides you through trendy shopping areas and restaurants that could feature in a glossy magazine.
Frankly, it's a maze of high-rise, rusty-white-washed buildings all merging into one - and the streets peel off in all directions. Buildings are erected in a disorderly manner across the landscape. If anything, it's pretty but in an ugly way. Other than up, being very much up, you could easily get lost here.
Finally, the top tier is the pretty, well-decorated icing on the cake.
Greenery, universities, romantic boardwalks, and a cafe culture rule to roost. At the top of Mount Carmel, life is slow, peaceful and a far cry from the manic port. Although, that's probably got something to do with the lack of breath from climbing up thousands of steps. Views out to the north are undeniably pretty. On a clear day, you may even see Lebanon.
However, it is cold and windy up here, so be prepared. Nevertheless, it is worth every bit of effort to get here.
How to Get To Haifa
In reality, Israel is a small country. Therefore, any journeys to Haifa from the more popular tourist cities, like Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, will not take too long.
Furthermore, public transport is generally very good in Israel, and unless you have a car, you have two legitimate ways of getting to Haifa.
Firstly the trains, which run direct from Tel Aviv. Once in Haifa, there are three train stations, Bat Galim to the northwest and one stop further Haifa Center in the middle of the action. Then, finally HaMifrats Central Station by the airport and the central bus station.
Secondly, bus services run from all the major cities and will drop you off at the bus station - Merkazit Hamifrats, which is out near the airport to the east. You will then need to take a local bus into the city as it's too far to walk.
Despite there being an airport, I won't mention flying because if you're flying internationally, the chances are you'll be flying into Tel Aviv. Plus, internally, unless you're flying from Eilat, it's easier, quicker and cheaper to take a train or bus.
Haifa from Jerusalem
Your quickest and most relaxing option is to train from Yerushalayim (Jerusalem's largest central train station), taking the 742 to Tel Aviv Ha'Hagana. Once there, jump on the 116 direct to Haifa Central. This journey takes around two hours and five minutes.
However, if you prefer to take the bus from Yerushalayim, you can jump on the 962 north to Yishay Interchange, which is outside the small town of Ramat Yishay. From there, cross the street to Yishay Junction, where you have numerous options to Merkazit Hamifrats.
Haifa from Ben Gurion Airport/Tel Aviv
In truth, there is one option, take the direct train (116) from the airport through four stops in Tel Aviv and onto Haifa Central. This journey will take around one hour and forty minutes. Don't bother with the bus.
Timing your Trip
How Long Should You Spend In Haifa, Israel
Generally speaking, there aren't loads of attractions or things to do and see in Haifa. However, there are many places to relax, kick back and let your hair down. Haifa is more about great food and smashing back a few cocktails. You won't need to spend days and days here.
Hence, in this guide to Haifa, Israel, I suggest three days, with an additional day for each day trip to places like the Sea of Galilee or the Golan Heights.
The Best Time Of The Year For Exploring Haifa, Israel
More than most cities in Israel, Haifa can be explored throughout the year. However, to get the best out of your trip, I'd suggest visiting in April, May and June and then again in Autumn.
Ideally, you don't want the heat of summer bearing down on you when climbing those steps. Likewise, you don't want to ascend in the rain either. After all, the steps are very slippery when wet.
Where to Stay Whilst Visiting Haifa, Israel
Firstly, you will notice that accommodation in Haifa is cheaper than in Tel Aviv or Jerusalem. Generally, that's due to having lower levels of tourism. Hence, why, if anywhere, on your Israel trip, this is where you can afford to splash out on a hotel rather than a hostel.
As a result of the almost three-tiered layers within Haifa, I'd suggest you stay in the lower part of the middle tier. Significantly, that means you'll be within one level of both the port and the views from Mount Carmel. Similarly, it also means you'd be within the trendy shops, the hustle and bustle of the markets and within walking distance of the gorgeous restaurants.
However, within this middle tier, there are more desirable districts to stay. Therefore, in this guide to Haifa, Israel, I'd recommend you aim to stay in or on the outskirts of either Wadi Salib or Wadi Nisnas.
So, without further ado, let's look at my one and only suggestion on where to stay in Haifa, Israel.
Haifa Tower Hotel
- What: Gigantically tall hotel tower block.
- Where: On the outskirts of the Wadi Salib district. (map)
- Why: Have you seen that picture? Sunrises are increible! Plus, it's cosy and has everything you need.
- Why Not: You can book a hostel for half the price amid the cocktail bars.
Hidden within a ground floor shopping centre, you'll find the reception of this large hotel.
Friendly, kind and knowledgeable staff get you checked in before heading up the lifts to your room. They are there 24/7 and are superb. Anything you need, they will find it for you.
The rooms are large, clean and bright, with windows that rattle a bit the further up your room is. But that's Haifa - it's windy.
We had everything we needed in a relaxing room, with a delightful bed, a TV, and more importantly, a kettle and all the necessities.
Although we can all agree, even if it was rubbish, which it wasn't, it's a great price and worth paying for that sunrise alone.
In January 2023, I paid 463₪ (£107.99p) for two people for two nights.
Further Accommodation
Of course, sunsets and sunrises aren't everything.
The vibe, the feel and the style of accommodation you stay in have to match you. Here in Haifa, Israel, there are so many different styles, from whole apartments to shared dorms and onto rent-a-room and even a free sofa for the night.
Hence, below I have gone with my trinity of accommodation links, Airbnb, Hostelworld and Booking.com. Each of the three options provides very different vibes and styles. All you have to do is choose one. Other options are available too.
For those of you like me, who like to save money on accommodation so you can spend it on food, drink and activities, I'm recommending in this guide to Haifa, Israel, that you use Hostelworld. Hostelworld will provide some of the best prices in the city. That is unless you enjoy a touch of Couchsurfing.
Things to do when Visiting Haifa, Israel
Haifa is very distinguishable from most of Israel. It's lush and green, vibrant and has a unique atmosphere. There is a sense of harmony, and it's far more relaxed. Although, unlike Jerusalem and other cities and towns in Israel, there isn't much to do in the city. Most things are out of town. Nevertheless, what it does have in abundance are incredible food joints, outlandish bars and beauty.
Food is a big part of life here, and, in reality, eating out is one of the best things to do in Haifa. I'll speak more about the mouthwatering food in the 'where to eat section'.
However, before I start drooling, I'll explain more about the logistics of getting around and the best things to do in Haifa. As I have mentioned a few hundred times, Haifa is hilly. If you don't take an occasional bus ride, there's a chance you will pass out. Luckily, the bus services in Haifa are outstanding. Plus, if you miss one, another will be along shortly after. Use them!
Obviously, that's a little tricky if you're in town during Shabbat when bus services turn almost non-existent. But, if they are running, don't risk a fine. Use your Rav Kav Card.
Although, there are other, more exciting ways up and down Haifa's steep slopes. Both the funicular-underground railway and the dazzling cable cars are excellent options and not too expensive.
Outside of that, there isn't much to say other than let's jump into my Guide to Haifa Highlights.
Guide to Haifa Highlights
Walk the Louis Promenade and Marvel at the Views from Mount Carmel
- Why: In brief, you'll be rewarded with the best views in Hafia.
- Where: Right at the top of Mount Carmel. (map)
- How long: Once up here, take an hour or so to grab a coffee or an 80s Burger and admire the view.
- How much: A backpacker's dream... Free, as are most things in my guide to Haifa.
Regardless of how many steps you'll take, the hike to the top will be worth the pain, blood, sweat and tears. Similarly, you could just get the bus, cable cars or underground. Your call!
Anyway, once at the top, the Louis Promenade leads you around the verge of Mount Carmel, where you'll have sublime and spectacular views back down over Haifa.
Along the walk, small pathways divert off and back to the promenade. Within these little hideaways are entertaining objects such as a kaleidoscope, which is, and it pains me to say it, amusing.
Although, for me, the biggest treat on the Louis Promenade, apart from the views, is the tantalisingly tasty 80's Burger. Grab a meal deal and sit on one of many benches enjoying great food with panoramic scenery.
Then, there are the delights of coffee shops, the stupendously pretty Baha'i Gardens and other green spaces to sit and take it all in.
As I said, worth the three-trillion steps from the port 😉
Take a Day Trip to the Sea Of Galilee
- Why: The Sea is a famous location for Christians and a peaceful day out of the cities.
- Where: Just south of the Golan Heights on the borders with Jordan, Syria and Lebanon. (map)
- How long: Depending on the time of year, between half a day to a day.
- How much: The local bus from Haifa to Tiberias return will cost you 32₪ (£7.68). Tours vary.
Firstly, we took the local bus to Tiberias, the largest city on the Sea of Galilee. Other towns and villages are available. Having only visited Tiberias, and in winter, things didn't start opening up until 11am. None of which gave me a great feeling or vibe. Hence why this is a tricky write-up, but still, somewhere you should visit.
With that in mind, I haven't experienced the best of the area. I must have missed something.
However, there were some encouraging aspects. Tiberias is a holy city with numerous monuments and tombs of significant religious leaders for both the Christian and Jewish faiths.
Furthermore, the city is surrounded by national parks and nature reserves and, of course, the glistening Sea of Galilee with spectacular views over the Golan Heights, which appears to be another fantastic day trip.
Once the city woke up from its beauty sleep, it did come to life. HaGalil street is, by far, the most beautiful. Wooden shade covers lie over the pavements, with greenery growing up around it, and combined with beautiful old-fashion train-station-vibed green arches, the setting was exquisite.
At this point, even the water seemed bluer and glistened that bit brighter. However, the best part of the city was the outrageously scrumptious shawarma at גיא המשבעה - HaGalil 34, Tiberias.
Explore the Breathtaking Baha'i Gardens
- Why: It's a holy site in the Bahai faith and has one of the most beautiful symmetrical gardens.
- Where: You cannot miss it. It's visible on Mount Carmel from both the top and bottom near the German Colony. (map)
- How long: Tours will take around forty-five minutes, with an optional video lasting an additional twenty minutes.
- How much: Again, it's free.
Without doubt, the Baha'i Gardens are one of the most visited and photographed sites in Haifa, and there's a reason for that.
The impeccable beauty of the symmetry, leading to the immense golden dome roof of the shrine to the Bab, one of the two holiest men in the Bahai faith, is simply spectacular.
Fifty shades of green with splashes of orange and purple against the white marble brings a sense of awe and joy.
To build such an expertly crafted building and grounds over nineteen tiers is unthinkable, but to maintain them, well, that's extraordinary.
Sadly, you cannot wander around the grounds whenever you like.
Although, tours are free, and you don't need to pre-book. Tours run daily in English, Hebrew and Russian.
Enjoy the spectacular scenery.
Relax in the Markets with An Arabic Coffee
- Why: In reality, Haifa is about the coffee culture, good food and a more relaxed way of life. Therefore, you should do precisely that.
- Where: Walk, and you shall find - This one is here... (map)
- How long: Move between the coffee shops and little hipster pop-ups all day if you wish. How thirsty are you?
- How much: It truly depends on what you order and where. Two Arabic coffees and a large knafeh cost 40₪ (£9.34).
In this semi-hipster world, small markets crisscross the city... and yes, they are the perfect places to grab fresh juices, fruit and veg.
Equally, they're also perfect spots to chill, watch the world go by, sip back on a hot drink and nibble on some sweet, sweet knafeh. Everything is much cheaper in these small roadside shacks compared to larger cafes and coffee houses, and, in a way, they're more vibey too.
If I'm honest, it feels like a life hack. You get cheaper drinks. Plus, you're in and around the local people and putting your money back into the heart of their community.
For more on this little place, you'll find it in the food guide to Haifa below.
Discover the Different Districts
- Why: Each district brings a new and unique experience. Whilst all are similar, they are all very different.
- Where: Visit as many as you can across the city.
- How long: Spend a day strolling about. Do some shopping, grab that coffee and knafeh.
- How much: Unless you cheat by getting the bus or spend too much on shopping, it's free.
As I have explained throughout this guide to Haifa, there isn't much to do. Haifa is more about the food and seeing the city.
Therefore, I suggest you spend as much time as possible on foot throughout the city.
Take in the sights of the peaceful beaches, manic ports and the beauty of the German Colony. Above all, don't forget to explore the ageing arty world of Wadi Salib and Wadi Nisnas, both of which are stunning in their own way.
Dive into a few shops, spend some cash, and relax amid those delicious roadside shacks. The city is there to be explored thoroughly.
Where to Eat When Visiting Haifa, Israel
Before we dive in, are you sitting comfy? This is the best and most important part of my guide to Haifa.
Why?
Well, food is a massive part of why many of us travel, and after a couple of locals told me about some of the food in Haifa, I had to visit. Before that conversation, Haifa was only a maybe. So, being a huge foodie, I have a lot to prove and live up to.
With this in mind...
The city is awash with incredible food joints, street vendors and markets, all serving flavoursome local dishes in astonishing surroundings.
Delicious Middle Eastern treats such as shawarmas tend to include meat, so vegans and veggies, forgive me. Whilst Israel does cater for you, Haifa isn't going to be your favourite place.
Abu Shkara
- What: A meat eaters heaven within a combined butcher come stylish restaurant.
- Where: On the eastern fingers of the German Colony on the corner of Khuri and Hatzionut Avenue. (map)
- How much: The menu ranges dramatically, but this tasty dish above (for two) costs 300₪ (£70).
Possibly my favourite restaurant in Israel...
Meat-eaters - welcome to paradise.
Upon entry to this butchery come restaurant, you'll get offered a shot, normally Jameson, and why not? After all, the owner will be. Trust me... they keep coming too.
Sit on a skinny breakfast bar and watch the chef prep and plate your food perfectly. Any meat, any cut done the Abu Shkare way. Frankly, I wouldn't want it any other way, not even mine. Theirs is just better!
How they get so many flavours from the meat is anyone's guess, but, my God, it's heavenly. I'm salivating at the thought.
The whole affair is more than just eating exquisite-tasting food. It's a performance, a show where all the contestants win. If you like meat, you have to come here
Douzan
- What: Fancy Italian restaurant with beautiful decor.
- Where: On Sderot Ben Gurion Street in the heart of the German Colony under the magnificent Baha'i Gardens. (map)
- How much: A couple of drinks, that starter and two other dishes only cost 112₪ (£27).
Amid bright, pretty lights and quirky signs, not to mention a bike attached to a tree, this stunning Italian dazzles and delights every sensation.
Whilst the food cannot match that of Abu Shkara, nothing will - it was delicious. I wouldn't say authentic Italian, but a great stand-in when in the Middle East.
Overall, the staff are super friendly, there's a wide variety of Italian and non-Italian classics on the menu, and the portion sizes are fantastic, as seen in the picture above. That's just a starter.
Enjoy!
80's Burger
- What: Small red van flipping out some of the best burgers in town.
- Where: At the beginning of Louis Promenade on Mount Carmel. Outside the rear of the Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art. (map)
- How much: Two lots of burgers and fries and two cold drinks cost 110₪ (£25.67). Pricey for the size, but totally worth it.
More often than not, you'd expect to see something like 80s Burger at Glastonbury or another world-renowned festival.
But no!
Not here in Haifa.
This banging little wagon punches out top-quality burgers and fries aloft Mount Carmel on the Louis Promenade. Fresh salads, good size patties, a touch of secret sauce and some intensely good toasted rolls create the perfect concoction for any hungry tourist.
Burgers with a view. Can you ask for any more?
A very welcome calorie intake once you reach the top. I'd suggest you get one before you head back down as well. You'll want one.
כנאפה תלפיות
- What: Small little roadside beach-shack-style cafe banging out some of the best treats.
- Where: Next to the wonderfully colourful Talpiyot Market (map)
- How much: Two coffees and that bowl of ice cream-topped Knafeh came to 40₪ (£9.34).
So, I've mentioned this little place a few times in this guide to Haifa. Therefore, I won't bang on about it too much more.
All you need to know is it's a funky little set-up with a super cool dude behind the counter.
A quirky, fun and friendly place to enjoy a snack and rest those calf muscles and weary feet.
Try the knafeh with ice cream. It's to die for.
Where to Party Whilst Visiting Haifa, Israel
Haifa, like every city in Israel, is unique, which is probably the best word to describe its nightlife.
Each district has a style and a stance on what makes a night out great.
The German colony shouts to the wealthy, who are attracted to beauty, class and bright lights. Somewhere you could sit and relax with a bottle of red and have intellectual conversations.
In contrast, the area on the coast, south of Haifa Center, woos the younger, hipster generation with lavish decor and randomness around every corner. The sort of bar where the lads have to have a man-bun and a tash they can twiddle when conjuring up a plan or deciding what cocktail to go for next. Nights can get messy, loud and roll into the early hours.
Meanwhile, Wadi Nisnas and Wadi Salib aim for the ruined look with slightly cheaper, more natural, back-to-basic bars. This is where you'll find the real Haifa.
Although, if you want to go full-Haifa, try the locally brewed tubi 60, a citrus-based alcoholic concoction. Buzzing!
Finally, before I hit you with my favourite place for a drink in Hafia, I'll mention safety. Having gone out during the hours of darkness every night, I felt safe and didn't fear being spiked or drugged. Furthermore, I didn't witness any safety concerns for those looking to have a good night.
Fattoush Bar
- What: Imagine being inside the brain of the Mad Hatter when someone asks, "what would your ideal cocktail bar look like?"
- Where: On the coast, between the Port of Haifa Storage 3 and Haifa Central Train Station. (map)
Unreal!
Where else can you relax in an old factory warehouse merged with an old train station, sip on a delicious cocktail whilst being watched by a cabinet full of naked Barbies, surrounded by random artwork, neon lights, palm trees and animal figurines?
It's random as hell. Frankly, the owner should be having their brain scanned for some serious headfuckery, but they're not.
Why?
Because it's bloody legendary.
When people say two wrongs don't make a right, they're wrong. So much of this shouldn't work, yet I'd happily spend every night here working my way through the delicious cocktails.
Add the beautifully prepared drinks and super efficient and friendly staff, and you'll want to return night after night. And... if your wallet allows, why not.
If there are two places you visit for food and drink in Haifa, this is one of them. The other is Abu Shkara.
Is it safe to visit Haifa, Israel?
In contrast to most of my Israel blogs, I haven't talked much about safety in this guide to Haifa.
Despite its proximity to the UN-controlled Lebonanese border and recently contested Golan Heights, I would say Haifa was where I felt safest in Israel.
While people from different religious backgrounds still live within close proximity, life in Haifa is harmonious. It feels almost like a European city.
With this in mind, the highest risk to your safety is either dying of a heart attack from climbing all those steps or twisting an ankle on the steps themself, especially if they're wet.
Although, as you can see below, some of that street art is a little bit freaky!
Leave a comment
Thank you for reading my brief guide to Haifa, Israel. Hopefully, the references to hills, steps and a leg day workout haven't scared you off because Haifa is a gem in Israel's north. You would be missing out if you skipped it.
Those of you who have read this guide to Haifa and used it and found it beneficial, I'd appreciate your thoughts in the comments below. Likewise, if you think I've missed something or got something wrong, please let me know. Together we can make the best guide for backpackers the world over.
In the event that you're planning a trip to Israel or the Middle East and have further questions on Haifa or other parts of the country, please drop me a DM on Instagram. I will do my utmost to answer any questions or help with further advice.
Now, that's the end of my guide to Haifa. It's over to you. Go and get training! 😉
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