La Paz, Bolivia - A Travel Guide
Last Updated: October 24, 2021
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ABOUT LA PAZ | SHOULD I GO? | WHAT TO DO | WHERE TO STAY | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO PARTY
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Houses on the Hill
Founded in 1548 La Paz is located in western Bolivia, near the Peruvian border, southeast of Lake Titicaca. The capital is high in the Altiplano sector of the Andes Mountains. As a matter of fact, it is this perch that has made La Paz the worlds highest administrative capital city.
La Paz is beautifully framed by mountains, including the stunning triple-snow-peaked Illimani, visible throughout the city. Imagine the Paramount Pictures emblem then you'll have a rough idea of what the mountain looks like.
As a result, the people of La Paz have become experts at building where most wouldn’t dare. The Redbrick houses don the mountainsides in all directions within the bowl that La Paz has grown. Most of which are incomplete. The reason for this is because an unfinished house allows the residents to live tax-free.
However, it is another design that has taken centre stage in La Paz. The genius cable cars have become an icon of the city. The cars link El Alto and La Paz, as well as the mountainside communities with the wealthier central districts.
La Paz Time
The drive from the Peruvian border wasn’t pleasant at all. This country was vastly different from Peru and is clearly in need of help. Generally speaking there was dirt, rubbish, and poverty on every street corner.
My first glimpse of La Paz was standing over the giant bowl, looking down over the vast sea of red bricks. On the whole, I can honestly say I had never seen anything like it.
Thus, arriving in the bowl, I'd like to tell you I was astonished and amazed by its beauty and uniqueness. But I cannot. I was amazed and stunned, but for all the wrong reasons.
In a word, I was horrified at what I saw.
Firstly, the city was fenced along the mountain ridge, which gave for a strange prison-type feel. Secondly, there were what appeared to be dilapidated houses as far as the eye could see. However, they were in fact, lived in. Every building looked the same. As we descended, twisting and turning our way down to the centre, things didn’t get any better.
I couldn’t help but think if the capital is this bad, how bad are some of the smaller towns?
After a couple of days in the city before flying back to Lima, I had more than enough. I visited the government buildings, experience the Witches Market, and took in the sights and tastes of the city.
The city did have soul and character, with a buzz of excitement in the air. Nevertheless, whilst this helped, I couldn’t settle in the city, and it wasn’t somewhere I wanted to stay.
So Should I go there?
After everything I have said about the city, I think we know my opinion...
Personally, I don’t think I would bother, however, having said that there are reasons you would want to come here.
Firstly, it’s a gateway to South America and all it has to offer.
Secondly, Bolivia itself has some dreamlike scenery; from the salt flats and lakes up to the delightful peaks of the Andes.
Bolivia is also the home of death-defying and thrilling activities and adventures. These activities include the ravishing Death Road, entertaining salt-boarding, 4x4'ing, Ziplines, not to mention some truly amazing mountain bike trails.
Due to these activities, Bolivia is undoubtedly somewhere you'll want to see, and spend a good amount of time. La Paz is therefore somewhere you may fly in or out of during the trip.
My opinion here at Far Out is, wherever you are, you should see the place. Just because a city, town or area isn’t outstanding or recommended, doesn’t mean it should be avoided. There are still stories to tell, things to see, and it's important to make your own opinions on places.
Nevertheless, having spoken with others, there appears to be numerous exciting day or overnight trips from the capital. If you have time, these could be something you should look into.
What to do when Backpacking La Paz
La Paz, whilst large, hasn’t got a great amount to do.
On the positive side, the different districts all showcase differing styles of architecture and art. These designs span several different eras and influences, which make each building special.
The street art in parts of the city is phenomenal. Whilst the main squares are a hive of activity. That said, any tenable ‘things to do’ I would suggest are, on the whole, out of the city. Below, however, are a couple of suggestions.
The Witches Market
The market is a random, yet genius maze of narrow streets to the north-west of the city. Within the markets you'll find the locals dressed in their traditional clothing, selling a wide number of handmade items. The tourists flock here daily in search of a bargain, and once there, it is easy to see why. You can pick up the most unique and cool memorabilia from the witches.
Keep an eye out for the witch doctors in their bulbous black hats. They run the markets and will assist you when necessary. Surprisingly, the witches markets are not all about the trinkets and gifts. Additionally, if you're feeling under the weather, the witch doctors offer a local remedy or potion.
Meandering the markets will put a smile on your face, even if you don't purchase any potions.
Plaza Murillo
Plaza Murillo is one of the focal points in the city and home to the legislative and governmental powers. Strangely, it also appears to be where the majority of the wealth is located within the city.
From the square, you can see the whole metropolitan area dangling precariously from the mountainside.
The square itself is sensational and deserves all the plaudits. Although, when the rest of the city is left to rack and ruin, you have to ask why? How are so few people, and such a small number of buildings fed so wealth?
Climbing and Hiking
If mountaineering and climbing are high on your to-do list, then La Paz is the place for you. Surrounded by the Andes, and several charming snow-capped mountains, you will be in heaven (literally). The majority of which house trails and climbing areas, meaning there are few better-suited cities for this.
Out of Town Tours
As alluded to earlier, many tours base themselves from La Paz. Many agents within La Paz offer day trips to the salt flats, salt boarding, 4x4’s, buggies, the lot. You can then chose how long you stay for and what activities you take part in.
Other favourite tours include the infamous Death Road. Shown World-wide after the lads from Top Gear nearly died as they blundered their way along.
Although, if that sounds a bit too traumatic, you could enjoy a tour around the magical Lake Titicaca. Boat tours will take you to different islands and parts of the lake including the floating islands of Uros. With numerous destinations on the Bolivian and Peruvian side of the lake, this is a once in a lifetime trip.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking La Paz
I've got good and bad news in regards to where to stay in the city. Firstly I only had a couple of nights in La Paz, and they were spent in the most amazing hotel.
Hotel Osira
More importantly, it was super cheap. Sadly, the bad news is that during Covid 19 it has shut down for good. Therefore, I will not go into too much detail.
Nevertheless, it was called Hotel Osira, on Plaza San Pedro (St Peter's Square). I hope it makes a come back some time, even under different management. Everything about this 3.5-star hotel oozed class, from the location to the comfort.
On the whole, I have nowhere else in the city to discuss. I will, therefore, base my thoughts on Hotel Osira. At around 143BS (£16) a night you got a lot for your money.
The rooms were large and comfortable and overall for the price you really couldn’t fault it. The service was impeccable and as mentioned, the location perfect. All in all, I thought the hotel was fantastic.
In conclusion, if the rest of the city provides accommodation as per Hotel Osira, you are in luck. In reality, from walking around the city, I'm not holding up much hope, but who knows.
Where to Eat When Backpacking La Paz
La Paz has many local restaurants, food halls and markets, and honestly, they're better than some of the bigger restaurants. I, therefore, have to recommend eating cheap, eating local, and eating fresh. If you're double busy, eat on the go. Grab a cheap bite at the markets, normal fresh fruits or bread.
Luciernagas
If you've got a little more time on your hands, give the vibes of a local South American restaurant ago. Again, they had fresh produce and flavours to rival the Michelin Star restaurants.
Admittedly, they were lacking in the presentation department, but who cares. A prime example of this is Luciernagas, banging foods, great tastes, but thrown on the plate in a prison manner.
The vibrant, colourful, backstreet restaurant may not look particularly beautiful. But, it doesn't try to be, it throws its weight around where a restaurant should. It's food.
That is not say some of the more expensive restaurants dont pack a punch, because they do.
Maphrao On
One of the more reputable restaurants I would recommend is Maphrao On. They specialise in Asian dishes, and whilst petit it is perfectly designed down near the Plaza Isabel La Católica. They say 'good things come in small packages' that truly applies here!
The food was delicious, and out of the group of 10 of us, we all left raving about the restaurant. The ambience, design, the staff and the food were all brilliant.
The sweet and sour chicken was mouth-watering and it would be my number one recommendation. Others loved the curry and the Thai noodles.
**Update 2020** Bad News, another victim of covid 19. Maphrao On has now permanently closed. I'm not doing very well here on La Paz.
Where to Drink and Party when Backpacking La Paz
Sadly, things don't get any better here.
I wasn't in the city to drink. I only had a couple of nights here and wanted to make the most of it. There was no way I was wasting the day in bed with a hangover.
Honestly, I didn't see too many bars in La Paz, but those I did see, were in the Sopocachi district.
What You'll Need to Blend In
The local traditional clothing
A love of unfinished houses
Love of market life
Thanks for tearing my country apart I live in the United States and I can show you worst places here that” don’t belong here.” And u citizen of ? Shame on u