Stockholm, Sweden - A Travel Guide
Last Updated: June 20, 2026
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The Stupendous Stockholm
The waterways that run through Sweden's stunning capital city are not only its lifeline but its identity, its genetic make-up, its history. The rivers that run from the Baltic to the grand lake of Malaren mean everything to Stockholm and the beautiful people that live here. The archipelago spreads for miles and miles along the Baltic coast, oozing beauty at every glimpse.
Settlers have roamed the lands of present-day Stockholm as far back as the Ice Age, followed by Vikings using the area as a trade route in the latter half of the 1st century, with what is now known as the Old Town being the hub of this settlement. Records, however, first mention Stockholm in the mid-13th century, and it grew until, in 1634, it became the capital city of Sweden, which was at the time a major world power, with trade and population growth second to none.
This empire extended through the 17th and early 18th centuries, with kings extending their borders and conquering lands far and wide during this time. The history of this great nation and city is phenomenal and can be found glaring at you on every street corner, and if you want to delve deeper there are many museums and churches that will venture back into the history of this great city. The truth is all laid bare here, and if you look hard enough, you’ll find the city's past as astonishing as today's beauty.
Old Friends and Family
I spent 5 days exploring Stockholm, spending my last pound just trying to survive the excessive prices and cool northern breeze. I have to say I really couldn’t have cared too much if I had gone into my credit overdraft to stay in this most magnificent city, which I nearly did.
I ate lavishly, not by choice but because that's pretty much the common price of Stockholm. I explored the central parts of the city, including the old town, and venturing as far east as the marvellous island of Vaxholm. I took in more culture and history than I ever thought possible in such a short period of time and even saw the Swedish King and Queen (who didn’t wave back), but I am not bitter… much.
This was a slightly special tour for me as I took my great uncle, who, at the age of 86, seems to be becoming a regular tag along with Far Out. It was, however, only when we landed that I learned he was previously a professor of Swedish history - I mean, I knew he was a professor of a number of periods of history, but Swedish? That was news to me! It did, however, mean I was provided with a ton of facts, history, and hilarious moments.
One of these came during a visit to a 13th-century church when he decided to explain the history of a deceased king to a tour guide who came to explain who he was and proceeded to get told every detail of the king's day to day life. It was comic gold, and a day the poor girl probably wished she had phoned in sick.
The other reason for spending so long in the city was catching up with one of the most amazing people who I first met in Brisbane, Australia in 2014. Coco lives in Stockholm and, since we parted ways in 2014, we had stayed in touch, meeting once at my house party in England in 2015. She showed us around the most magical spots in the city and the places she grew up, as well as some of her favourite restaurants.
Whilst it cost me an arm and a leg, it was all well worth almost every body part I have. I did so much and saw everything and did more than I ever thought possible. I loved it and I really hope you will too.
So Should I go there?
Never has this come with such a caveat, but yes.
I loved Stockholm. It provided me with some of the most delicious foods ever to grace my mouth, it has allowed me to catch up with a friend, and it has left me with fantastic memories and stories to tell. Its beauty and diversity are incredible, and its efforts to entertain and wow you know no bounds. Its architecturally stunning and would equate in the art world to Da Vinci’s Sistine Chapel.
The waterways that entangle the islands are a beauty in themselves, and I truly recommend you come to this magnificent Scandinavian hub. The people will take care of you and do everything they can to make your stay in their home city the picture of perfection. Not only does the city have the appeal of its culture and beauty, but of efficiency and cleanliness as well.
However - and this is the kicker - it is so expensive to get around, eat or take part in pretty much anything on offer. You really must be on an all-expenses-paid work visit, have won the trip on a television show, or have been left some money in a will to justify it.
If money is no object then it’s a no brainer: the city will provide you with everything you are looking for. If, however, you live like most of us and have to save for an extravagant trip, then I would have to say this isn’t for you. If you were to spend 5 days in the city you could easily equate that in costs to 3 weeks round travel in Southeast Asia or South America.
An example of this can even be found prior to your arrival, in the journey from the airport to the centre of Stockholm. Hopefully, though, I can help save you a little bit of your hard-earned money: a taxi is about the most expensive way to get to the city, unless you have a group of 4 or more, and will cost around 565 SEK (~£45) each way. The bus is the cheapest at 120 SEK (~£9.50) each way but will take 45 minutes, that’s 240sek (~£19) return per person. In the end, we decided to go with the Arlanda express train to the central station at 150sek (~£13.50) each way per person (300sek/~£27 return) which takes 18 minutes. That was worth the time saved in my view.
What to do when Backpacking Stockholm
Stockholm centres around its old town, and that appears to be the hustle and bustle of life within the city, at least for tourists. The city does, however, have far more to offer than just that small central island though: its outreaching archipelago, waterways and large green parks spread for miles in each direction, making it a vast area to explore and enjoy.
Vaxholm
A short journey via bus or boat east of the city, in the Stockholm archipelago, you will find the striking, blissfully traditional island of Vaxholm, chock-full of waterfront restaurants, green spaces and traditional Swedish coloured wooden houses.
A vast number of boats come to go like the tide itself, and the joyful views of the surrounding islands make for a wonderful setting. The island is dominated to the east by a staggering, graceful fortress set atop its own island that has stood protecting the area for many years.
Vaxholm (occasionally spelt Waxholm) wasn’t something I had heard too much about before, and most certainly wouldn’t have been somewhere I would have considered should I not have a friend living in the city. Thanks to her I can honestly say it was one of the best places I visited in Stockholm, and I can see why the locals try to keep it as much of a secret as possible.
So... sorry guys.
The food I ate here was out of this world, absolutely sublime. I instantly fell in love with the traditional buildings and architecture, and the scenery blew me away. This is a must.
Hagaparken
A 15 minute drive north of the city you will find the vast green grounds of Hagaparken, home to grand buildings, rolling pavilions, a damn palace and some quirky, fun copper tents.
The palace is well protected and screened from view, as it is the current home of the heir to the Swedish Throne. You may catch glimpses through the trees, especially during the autumn or winter months, but I wouldn’t expect to be invited in for a cuppa unless you own a county.
The large lake that lies centrally within the park isn't just scenic, it also boasts a number of water sports including the university rowing clubs, who I am told do very well in the competitions, so keep an eye out for the speed demons tearing across the lake.
The brook itself is a large tree-lined body of water with some impressive buildings on display, such as the Natural History Museum which stands proudly on the bank.
Whilst the buildings and pavilions add class and elegance, as well as a touch of wealth, to the park, it was the peaceful and calm ambience that won me over. Whilst we didn’t get to see much other than the odd horse, I am informed that herds of deer roam the open grounds, grazing at their leisure.
If the city and the noise get to you, I really recommend a stroll and maybe a picnic in Hagaparken. Its beauty will easily dissolve any woes, but may eat into your time in the city. It is easily somewhere you can lose track of hours upon hours, and before you know it a few eras could have passed, you've missed your flight and your family have all but abandoned the search for you. Probably.
The Old Town
The old town is located between the boroughs of Norrmalm and Katarina-Sofia, and houses some of the most impressive buildings in the city. Examples? You have the House of Nobility, the Government building, the Royal Palace, and any number of ancient religious buildings. Not to mention restaurants, bars, and more Swedish gift shops than you can shake a shitty stick at.
If you have a keen eye for photography, then you may wish to have a venture around the exterior of the Government building and the House of Nobility, as they are among some of the most spectacular buildings in the city.
One of the most impressive photos of the old town for me comes from within Stortorget Square, where the colourful houses are on the wonk, like a jelly castle at a kid’s party, and wouldn’t be out of place in the streets of Amsterdam. Their beauty shines across the square, which also encompasses the Nobel Museum, a curious building which exhibits a number of artefacts and lists history regarding the Nobel prize winners and their contribution to the world.
So, the architecture is phenomenal. But the old town offers so much more than just aesthetic pleasures, it offers history. Looking a little deeper provides the barebones of the city, giving small glimpses into why the city is what it is today.
An example is the subsidence, which is easily identifiable in the majority of the buildings. I have mentioned the square above with a couple of its houses on the wonk, but the facades of the waterfront homes and businesses are just spectacular to see. How some of them are still standing baffles me. It has to be more luck than anything that they haven’t fallen, I am sure it’s a case of falling in on each other and hoping they counteract each other’s lean, like two drunk mates leaving a bar arm in arm. No chance of getting a mortgage on any of these back home!
So, you may now ask what to do and see in the old town, so here goes.
The Changing of the Guards
The changing of the guards is said to be less formal than the most, such as at Buckingham Palace in London. However, from what I witnessed, there is no way I could agree with that sentiment.
The ceremony happens every day at 12:15hrs except Sundays when the ostentatious display starts an hour later at 13:15hrs in the main courtyard in the Royal Palace. I do recommend a front row, uninterrupted view, for which you will want to arrive 30 minutes prior, but be wary - it is a long time standing still on cobbled streets.
It is my highlight of the
city, and a must do.
The ceremony changes based on whether horse-backed riders are involved. I recommend you plan your time in the city to work around the horse backed parade (if time allows).
The ceremony lasts for between 40 and 45 minutes and is a plethora for the senses, indulging in musical enchantments and visuals that will knock you for six. From start to finish you will be enthralled with its charm and grace.
The uniforms were crisply worn during the well-choreographed performance which, whilst slightly long, will satisfy the inner entertainer in one and all.
The Royal Palace and the Crown Jewels
Entrance to the Royal Palace cost 160sek (~£13.00) which really isn’t going to break the bank, especially when you’re considering how much you would pay for any meals out in Stockholm (or for anything in Stockholm, for that matter). It is, however, slightly more than I think it is worth.
I have toured many palaces and castles around the world in my time, and essentially they are all the same: large dark buildings with lots of old furniture and tapestries, blacked-out windows, and the only light coming from extravagant chandeliers which I am sure cost more to run than the single energy-saving bulb that lights rooms well enough everywhere else in the world (Or here's an idea: open a window, let the tapestries fade and replace them every 100 years or so!).
This palace had all the above, and also far too many chairs for my liking. That said, it did provide us with a couple of gems - quite literally, as it is the home to the crown jewels, buried deep under the footprint of the fortified building. Should you manage to manoeuvre your way down here on the steal, you will be swiftly beaten back by the massive vault in which the jewels are kept. I don’t have photos for you as they are not allowed, but I can tell you the crowns (some suspiciously small), swords, cloaks, orb and sceptres are a sparkling delight. The number of precious stones is beyond belief, and each individual one being worth more than my current mortgage.
The other main attraction within the palace is Queen Christina’s silver throne, from which she ruled the country until her abdication in 1654. In all honesty, it wasn’t something I would rush back to see, but it holds meaning and historical importance within the city.
My summary for the interior of the royal palace is this: it is much like many other palaces, but an enjoyable place to learn the history of the Swedish Royal family and life through the ages under the numerous rulers. If you are a history buff or a fan of royal families, you should nudge the palace up a few places on your list of things to do in Stockholm.
Riddarholmen Church
This 13th-century gothic masterpiece stands tall, with its spire reaching up to clouds where it surveys the west of the old town island. The spiral is currently made of iron, which replaced the 16th-century wood-framed spire after it was struck by lightning in 1835.
Whilst in parts Riddarholmen Church can lay claim to being one of the oldest buildings in Stockholm, as well as one of the most exquisitely designed, it has far greater importance: the church is the final resting places to some of the country’s most powerful kings and queens, including Sweden's Great King' - Gustavus Adolphus II.
As much as I begrudge paying to go into churches, temples or other places of worship, it really is worth the 50 SEK (~£4) entrance fee just to see the impressive gold and stone tombs laid out in all their glory, as well as the coats of arms that line the inner walls of this joyous church. Or you can just look at this picture and save some money.
Marten Trotzigs Grand
Stockholm’s old town is, as you can imagine, full of narrow cobbled streets fit only for a horse and skinny man's cart. There is, however, one street that not even the skinniest of carts would fit, and that’s Marten Trotzigs Grand. This wonderful narrow stairway can be touched on both sides towards the top, even by those of us blessed with the wingspan of a robin. It is by no means the must-do item on this list or any list, but it is cool and a bit of fun. Unfortunately, the graffiti hasn’t added to the feel of the street like it has done in many others, it’s less artwork and more criminal damage. Banksy doesn't have much to worry about here.
The Vasa Museum
One of the highlights of the city, and in my view, like the changing of the guard, is a 'must-do’, is the Vasa Museum, an epic maritime museum with some very large treasures hidden inside.
There are many options on how to travel to the museum, but I would have to recommend the idyllic crossing from Slussen Ferry Terminal in the old town. The short 10-minute skip across the smooth inlet provides views back across the leaning buildings, with the facades giving everything they have not to cave in on each other. You may also get lucky and see a few marine mammals such as the odd seal. There are, of course, many other routes to the museum should you not be a fan of the water.
The external view of the building really didn’t blow me away, which I guess lowered my expectation on the approach. What I can say is that the interior more than made up for it. The first tentative steps into the museum will have you astounded, there in front of you in all its glory is the Vasa itself, a complete 17th-century warship salvaged from the deep, standing floor to ceiling and the full length of the building, so large that not even the postcards can fit it all in.
It really looks like something out of Pirates of the Caribbean, with rows of cannons protruding from the wooden walls, and the fierce sculptures easily identifying the ship as the Vasa, with lion heads and the royal coat of arms designed to put fear in the heart of its enemies.
Sadly, as you will learn within the museum, it never got to fire a single cannon in anger, as it sunk on its maiden voyage only 150 meters from its launch in 1628 in the heart of Stockholm. The ship went down in around 2 minutes due to poor design and laid to rest 30 metres under in its watery grave on the seabed. It was 333 years later, in the second half of the 20th century, that this magnificent beast was raised, preserved and renovated for all to gaze at its beauty once again. It’s as beautiful as it must have been as it slipped off the jetty and into the cool waters off the coast of Stockholm all those years ago.
The museum is complete with artefacts, pictures, and stories of the crew, onlookers and those who painstakingly designed and built what was meant to be the world’s most-feared, grandest flagship ever to set sail on the seven seas. I also recommend a quick visit to the café and gift shop whilst at the museum. All this can be explored at a very modest price of 150sek (~ £12.50). As I mentioned earlier, this really exceeded my expectations and is far more than just another renovated ship.
The Cherry Blossom and Kungstradgarden
Kungstradgarden can be located just off the northeast corner of the old town and provides the busy citygoer with a place of peace and beauty. Whilst it lacks size, it more than makes up for in colour, stunning tree-lined walkways, staggering statues and dancing waterfalls.
The park is also blessed with delicious cafés serving up small bites of heaven, hot and cold drinks and a much-needed cooling alcoholic beverage. (A couple of which get a mention in the where to eat and drink sections below).
During certain times of the year (April -May) the park is awash with colour and beauty as the ranks of cherry trees come into blossom. Not that you’ll be able to see them thanks to the crowds of Instagramers that fall over each other to get that perfect shot.
Just after the blossom falls the next band of colour leaps out at you, with the parade of tulips leaping from their winter hiding places, and trust me, this is not to be missed. I spent a considerable amount of time relaxing in and around the park, and I think that shows how highly I rate it. Again, if you have time, I would push this one up your list of places to visit, even if it is just for a quick snap under the blossom arches or a cooling beer in the park's café.
Waldemarsudde
Not many of you would have heard of Waldemarsudde, and it probably wouldn’t feature in many of your guide books. That though is a mistake.
At some point during your trip to Stockholm you will likely visit the Vasa Museum or its neighbouring Abba museum, and if you are, take the extra time out of your day to walk around Waldemarsudde. This large park, with waterfront strolls, grand sculptures and buildings, as well as the botanical gardens, is a peaceful break from the old town.
Again, with stunning tulips and an array of colour and beauty, this is not to be missed. The cool breeze streams off the water make for a relaxing time, the buildings have a unique feel to them even in Stockholm, and that will be sure to leave you with a smile.
Drottningholm Palace
For this, we meandered our way through the old town out to meet the boat at Klara Malarstrand and paid the 350sek (~£28.50) per person before hopping onboard. The boat leaves on the hour, and we departed promptly and efficiently - as everything seems to in Stockholm.
We slowly bobbed our way upstream, weaving past the outer extremities of Stockholm and onto the striking Drottningholm Palace. After 45 minutes of peace and tranquillity on the water, you’ll see the palace come up on your port side, where the grandeur of the building reflects back off the rippling water like it's admiring itself in a mirror. It really isn’t a bad thing to have the building and its reflection shining back at you. It's stunning.
To the right of the palace entrance is a delightful café, which in my view is well worth a stop on a nice hot sunny day. Sit back and soak in the majesty.
And that is unfortunately when the fun stops. After enjoying a bite to eat, you enter the palace and, well, to say it’s a disappointment is an understatement.
I almost grabbed one of the guards/army personnel who march the grounds to inform them that the place had been burgled. All that was left inside was a bunch of large dark empty rooms with - you guessed it - a shed load of chairs and a load of dull chandeliers, as well as an excessive number of old tapestries and portraits of kings and queens of the past. It really wasn’t special at all. Even the burglars, who had obviously taken the good stuff, couldn’t be bothered with what remains.
After our quick 20 minutes in the palace we went to roam the gardens, and let’s say they were enjoyable, just so I don’t dampen your mood if you have already purchased tickets. There isn’t a lot of colour or extravagant plants and flowers, just a bunch of very well-trimmed symmetrical box hedges and very well-raked gravel. I do give it credit for being a very relaxing place to be, having spent the rest of our Stockholm time in the hustle and bustle of the city.
Luckily for us, it was a very hot sunny day, otherwise, I think the write up for the palace may have been a lot harsher. I mean yes, it was relaxing and the boat ride was lovely, but when the boat journey to get somewhere becomes the highlight, something is wrong.
This is one trip I am glad I have done, but only because I managed to get within 10 foot of the King and Queen as they returned home from what I firmly believe was a quick trip to the shops to get tonight’s dinner. I get the impression even she didn’t want to be there by the look on her face; she didn’t crack a smile or give a slight raise of the royal hand for a wave back. Very disappointed, and I would rather have saved my money. Liz would have done it better.
Other items of interest in the city, which I personally didn’t have time for (or shall we say found less interesting than going for a cold beer), were the Abba Museum at 200sek (~£20), and next doors Eclipse Amusement Park, which was a bit of a poor man's Disney Land.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking Stockholm
As usual in Europe, there are a number of hostels, hotels, and apartments on offer across the city, ranging across the price spectrum - I would say to suit all needs, but that would be lying: it ranges from expensive to bloody expensive, and onto outrageous.
I couldn’t tell you too much about the last two categories as I don’t have the money or the number of credit cards to deal with something like that, a week’s stay costs more than my house. I don’t know the prices but I should imagine one of the pricier options would be the Grand Hotel with its architectural prowess, views across the water to the Palace and government buildings, and located a couple of minutes from the old town, on the southeast corner of Kungstradgarden.
As we're not on the Forbes rich list, you will find us in the hostels or delightful apartments which scatter the city. Again, remember it’s Stockholm so even these options are not cheap.
We managed to find a great little apartment in Slussen with Second Home Apartments, just south of the Old Town on the southern bank of the Katarinavägen Bridge. When I say little, I mean tiny, the apartment could be covered in a child’s triple jump competition. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, it was still delightful and had everything we could want.
More importantly, it was ideally located and we never had to walk more than 20 minutes to anything we wanted to see and do. I would call it cosy and costly at 10790sek (~£880) for 5 nights, which I think goes to show what to expect within the city. I highly recommend you book early and shop around, check out all the usual sites, such as Airbnb, Hostelworld and Expedia.
Where to Eat When Backpacking Stockholm
Stockholm is overflowing with stunning restaurants serving everything from Vietnamese to Icelandic delicacies. There are restaurants in the city fit for kings and queens, with prices that even some royals couldn’t afford, whilst others kindly cater to those who don’t have the crown jewels as an inheritance. I do have some advice when it comes to restaurants and eating out in the city, and that is to book, the restaurants get booked up quickly and you may miss out on some of the better ones if you don't.
Of course, the Swedes are famed for one dish over any other, and that’s the meatballs. I am willing to guess most restaurants throw them out in their thousands. I mean, even Ikea specialises in them!
As those of you who follow us on Instagram and religiously check out our stories will know, I am big on the phrase “when in Rome”. Never is this more the case than when it comes to food and drink, so meatballs it was, and you will see I attempted to try them on more than one occasion, and all for your information (and not at all for my stomach). It does mean, though, I can then give you honest advice on which restaurant serves up the best meal.
On our first night we attempted to get into a little place south of the Old Town called Meatballs for the People, only to find it was fully booked for the week, which disappointed me greatly. I was told to come back a few hours later as they might have a table, all whilst the smells and sensations poured from every crevice of the restaurant. I wanted to stay, we couldn’t, and our stomachs were rumbling. So we bravely went in search of something that could meet our pressing, urgent and often weird stomach grumbles.
A short walk down the road, with the volume and frequency of our ever-shouting stomachs getting worse, we popped into a little-known place called Restaurang HoneyHoney. I must admit having been guided in by Lurch from the Addams Family and shown a seat, I was less than enthused. It was by no other words a standard pub bar, and whilst very nice with sport on all the screens, it was a tad dark. I will say the staff were wicked, super friendly and couldn’t have been more helpful.
However, it is the food and beers that stole the show. Never had I tasted meatballs like it, drizzled in a wonderful sea of gravy with Lingonberry jam which complimented the side of mash potato perfectly. I was in food heaven and could happily have drowned in that plate. It was delicious and the best I had tasted, right until it was overtaken. Twice.
When we talk prices, we must take into consideration where we are, and that is one of the most expensive cities in the world. So, the price of 159sek (~£13.00) for meatballs and mash was more than acceptable, and about the cheapest you’ll find in the city. It is more than I would pay back home, but that’s just tough in Stockholm.
It was worth every penny, as were a couple of Swedish beers we washed the meal down with, followed by the chocolate cake for 79sek (~£6.50). I totally recommend this place for a meal; the neighbourhood is up and coming with the bars and shops crammed in like sardines. Honeyhoney was a delight and gave so much more than it promised, and whilst we did have better meals, this, for the price, was fantastic.
It was so fantastic in fact, I have to confess I ate here twice, mainly due to the price and proximity to the tube stations. On the second occasion had a version of Biff Rydberg (a simple dish of diced potato and steak with onion), which was gorgeous in every way except the 243sek (~£20) price tag for a pub meal. The sauce was magical enough to be a spell in Harry Potter, whilst the beef was cooked to absolute perfection.
Now for the piéce de resistance, and for me the best meal in Stockholm: Broms Restaurang. This place threw out a couple of Swedish classics in the form of both meatballs, which were recommended by one of the most hilarious waiters I have ever met, and the Biff Rydberg. I had the meatballs, which were bursting with flavour and provided me with a sensation I can only compare to walking out of work on a Friday with two weeks off and a flight to catch to somewhere hot.
I was told by the other guys that the Biff Rydberg was hands down the best meal, not only in this restaurant or country but the continent. Having watched the meal slowly destroyed crumb by mouth-watering crumb I can imagine it was. I had the most delicious meal I can ever remember eating and still had food envy. Never before have I been to a restaurant and been in stitches laughing at the performance and sheer brilliance of the waiter, who couldn’t have paid us more attention and put in so much effort with what I would describe as a group of misfits.
The whole experience was beyond everything you can ever want from an evening out, and that is even before the food. The food turned up the heat another notch with this experience of a lifetime that you simply must take up yourself during your time in Stockholm.
The next gem within my tour of Swedish perfection came in the form of The Golden Peace, which is a pure delight of the Old Town. This staggering restaurant seems to expand as you move through it and that’s a bit of luck, as it means you might get lucky and find a free table.
The waiters are more than perfectly warming and charming, and everything is done with a smile, but it doesn’t have the entertainment of Broms. Don’t let that take anything away from this wonderful place, it is still truly special. The taste of ecstasy sets in from the first spoonful of the entrée of nettle soup, and only grows, with its own take on the Swedish classic that is meatballs with a side of lingonberry, pickled cucumber and mashed potato. The desserts are slightly on a different wavelength or a whole new planet, and whilst tasty and warming they were the one place for improvement in this small section of edible excellence.
Now comes the only issue with the two latter restaurants (Broms and The Golden Peace), and that’s the cost. Each crumb is so elegant and beautifully produced with love and care, and so it should be, as each crumb comes at a figure to match. A three-course meal, followed by a drink to compliment and a cognac to finish off the night will set you back the cost of a small car, at around 1,480sek (~£120) per person. Both meals were easily one of the best meals I had ever had, and whilst I couldn’t afford it again, it is something I aspire to, and if I had the money, I wouldn’t think twice about forking out for.
Now for something completely different. And yes, that means no more balls….
Out on the eastern extremities of Stockholm, on the southeast of Vaxholm, the Hangover Restaurang is a delightful, genuine find that could all so easily be missed. I could forgive those who pass on by, as I assume you are looking out to sea and onto the horizon, gazing deeper into the archipelago.
Luckily my friend knew where to look, and she also knew what to order, and oh boy did she get it right. I must recommend a lite-bite meal called Boulangerie Skagen, which was a delicious home-made toasted bread crammed with shrimp in a mayonnaise sauce. It really hit the spot and ticked my tastebuds in a way I had not experienced for a long time. This Swedish dish is a must during your time in the country, and I hope you find it as salivating as I did.
If you are looking at a lighter bite and the perfect lunchtime location, it can be found in the Kungstradgarden. The small café of Te Huset packs a punch for its size, and pound for pound would go toe to toe with any of the big boys. The dish of choice here has to be Rakstuvning, which is similar to the above Skagen. This hot shrimp-based meal on a fresh slice of toast is brimming with flavours and explodes in the mouth like a firework. It really will put a smile on any face. Whilst amazing, it isn’t a meal I would recommend for an evening unless they did a twice the size version, which I’m not sure I could afford.
Actually, when it comes to costs, it's not cheap, but I guess you really can't complain too much at 130SEK (~£10.50), especially when you are relaxing in a fantastic little park, surrounded by trees and views over the palace and the bluest of waters.
Staying in the park and on a lunchtime theme, I have to recommend the tiny, genius parkside Café Soderberg. The range of cakes on offer is beyond beautiful, and I would have been happy relaxing here all year trying each of the desserts and subs on offer. Yes, I’ve had better, but again for the price and location you couldn’t ask for more. If the sun is shining then this little corner of perfect park life will be more than worth a few Swedish koronas.
My last shout-out goes to a wonderful ice creamery back on the island of Vaxholm. On the southeast corner of the island stands Glass på Hörnet. This little shop sells the most heavenly ice creams with a range of flavours, and I have to recommend the standard ice cream whipped into the cone. Here the cones range in size, some of which are ginormous, and filled to the brim with deliciousness. Give it a go, and those of you who consider yourselves to be ice-cream fans are sure to be in a state of ecstasy.
There were many other beautiful locations, delectable dishes and amazing restaurants around the city that we managed to try out, such as the amazing Texas Longhorn steak house, which provided some of the most tender steaks, but I cannot bring myself to mention any other national restaurant in the home of some of my favourite dishes.
Where to Drink and Party when Backpacking Stockholm
As previously mentioned, Stockholm is extremely expensive, and none more so than if you fancied a little tipple or a total wipeout session. That said there are still many bars thriving on the lavish lifestyles of the visitors and locals alike.
I do have to recommend, as with the food, to drink local. By this, I mean try the local beers. Whilst they maybe cannot stand up to some of the best European lagers, they really are very good, a couple to look out for are Norrlands Guld and Sleepy Bulldog Pale Ale.
Thrown into the history and culture of the old town, you will find yourself swimming in a sea of bars of all shapes and sizes. Prices do range dramatically from around 50sek (~£4) to 90sek (~£7.50) and in some cases upwards for a beer, which isn’t even a pint, it's around two thirds. It isn’t just the old town with stunning waterfront bars, they are spread across the city and out into the archipelago. Here are a couple of my favourites.
The wonderful atmosphere and dulcet tones at Elverket in the district of Östermalm provided more than a touch of class and brilliance, without looking in any way snobby. The variation of drink on offer, served from one of the smartest bars I’ve seen, was extraordinary. The staff were more than helpful and could recommend the perfect drink to suit anyone's needs. Class without those looking down their nose at you, it's a must if you plan to drink in the city.
Word of warning, like a lot of places in Sweden, there is no option to pay cash at the bar, its all about the card. I will also say the food smelled and looked superb, should you fancy booking here too. Prices do match that of the settings and of course the city as a whole, so make sure that card is topped up.
Located in the Old Town you will find the stylish Järnet Bar, formally Cultur Bar & Restaurant, which once again oozes sophistication. I loved it in here and was more than happy sipping away on a G&T watching the world go by from their window seats. Whilst the G&T's are perfectly acceptable, it was more about the settings; they coaxed me into a sense of calmness (and that was before the alcohol). Instantly the cool little bar transforms you into a carefree relaxed state, leaving you worry-free. That is until it's your round and you’ve got to pay the bar tab. But you soon get used to drinking prices in the city. Two G&T’s and a beer here will set you back around 235sek (~£20).
Staying in the old town and only a stone's throw from the Cultur Bar is the Engelen. It cannot live up to the style and class of the first two, but it does offer that pub feel and a view over the water's edge that the others lack. The prices are a shade cheaper, which is always a win. The staff seem to work harder here, and the clientele appeared a little more boisterous. None of this really matters though. The décor in the outdoor area is well put together and a nice place to be, it is one of a number of places in the Old Town where you will find the hordes of tourists after a cold beer in the sun, so the atmosphere is often a bit louder and in your face, which isn’t a bad thing in all circumstances.
If loud and in your face is what you are after, or that classic bar, complete with sports screens and collapsed fans draped in their teams scarf, possessing only the ability to down a pint without spilling a drop, then the Irish Bar The Auld Dub will be somewhere you will want to head.
Admittedly, I parked my rear not of the year in there for the final game of the English Premier League season 2019, in which either Man City or Liverpool could win the league. It was only then I found out it was a Liverpool supporters club, and despite winning at times during the game, it didn’t end well for them. Rowdy bunch, them Liverpool fans, but it made for one hell of a game. If this sounds a bit of you and you are all about the beer and banter then pop your head in, as you’ll have a great time.
The last of my recommendations in this section comes in the form of Eken in Slussen, just south of the Old Town. The restaurant looked nice but isn’t somewhere I was overly tempted by, but just outside is a wooden decking set on a number of levels, with a very cool pop up bar.
When the sun is shining this bar opens up and throws out the summer anthems, making for a really great atmosphere and one that is not to be missed. Yes, it’s a tad expensive with the old G&T’s coming in at around 150sek (£12.50) each, but in the sun, on your holidays and with some fun summer tunes blasting out, why not? It is a little hipster, but for me it was brilliant and a cheeky slurp of summer.
We also drank at a number of places I have mentioned within the food section, all of which I would also recommend, but for different reasons. Honeyhoney, again for its choice of beers, pub feel and cheaper prices. Broms, a short stroll from Elverket, would be a cultured choice for a nice drink, whilst Te Huset and its scenic park views wins the award for most pleasurable.
What You'll Need to Blend In
A sense of fashion and pride
A winning lottery ticket
A plan to break into the crown jewels
A smile
A love of balls. Meatballs.
A few beers, such to allow the buildings to look upright and safe once again.
