Sydney, Australia - A Travel Guide
Last Updated: January 20, 2026
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The Emerald City Of Oz
Sydney is the wrong answer to one of the most commonly mistaken quiz questions. The capital of Australia is not Sydney, but Canberra. That, however, doesn’t mean it would be a less than deserved title. However, it, for now, has to settle for the title of capital of New South Wales. I guess that’s like being the Bastard Jon Snow and not King of the North - you're still the favourite regardless of title.
Located almost halfway up the coast of NSW, the city was born around the world’s largest natural harbour and the area once ran wild with forest and wildlife. The local Aboriginal tribes ruled and harmony was in abundance. It was in 1770, when James Cook sailed the east coast and laid claim to it for the British, that things changed. In the late 1780s fleets of British convicts colonised the area.
An interesting story was told to me by an Australian guide. Whether it's true or not, that’s for you to decide, but I like to think it is…
The British were tasked with colonisation, and to report back to London with their findings on life in Australia. They employed the local indigenous people to lead them through the bush, and to protect them at all costs. Upon seeing their first animal the British asked “what’s this?” to which the indigenous people replied “Kangaroo”. Hurriedly, the Brits drew the animal and noted everything they could about it.
They moved deeper and deeper into the bush, coming across the next animal, and the next, and the next. Each time asked the same question “What is this?”, each time getting that same answer: “Kangaroo”.
Eventually the British, a little confused and thinking they were being taken for a ride, confronted their aboriginal guides and demanded clarification. It turned out "Kangaroo" in the local tribe’s language meant “I’ve got no idea what you're saying mate”.
So today, that first animal the early explorers saw took the title of kangaroo, with others taking more westernised names, making life easier for the western tongue.
Since its modest beginnings, Sydney slowly grew to become a city in 1842, growing rapidly in the 1850s thanks to the gold rush. Since then the city has grown in size, population and strength, and is now a world power and leader in many forms, including arts, finance and tourism.
New Year’s Stole the Show
I was fortunate enough to have travelled Australia extensively, (as you can see from the map within the Australia page), and whilst I feel there are better cities within this ginormous landmass, I cannot slam Sydney too much. Yes, I am a Melbourne fan, and yes, I do think Sydney is just a big city on the whole. But it has got that charm, that just keeps drawing you back and wanting more. So much so that I have visited three times on my travels around Aus.
The first of these trips was for the magic of New Year and everything it has to offer. The city was abuzz with excitement, with everyone travelling this vast country descending on the city during the festive period.
I will never forget that first evening in Sydney, having driven north from Melbourne a couple of days prior to New Year’s Eve. Nothing had prepared me for that feeling of walking down to the harbour that first evening and seeing what I had only seen on TV and in travel agents’ windows. Never did I think I would get to see it in person. It was a wondrous moment that overwhelmed me a little.
This was then blown out of the water with New Year's Eve. We got up early having heard rumours that only so many people were allowed into the free admissions zone around the Opera House and that it gets busy quickly. These rumours were not wrong. We took our place around 0900hrs and it was already a case of stepping over people to get our spot. What we didn’t know was it was a no return policy, so if you left you risked not being allowed back in. My advice: take an umbrella, not for the rain, but the sun. Food and drink can be found on-site, but if you can sneak some in the bottom of your bag, you will save money. It was all worth the heatstroke and waiting around. That evening will go down in history for me as a bucket item ticked off, and another dream that exceeded all expectations.
Like Melbourne, this trip also included an Ashes test, cheering on the boys from home despite poor performance and getting trounced. A lot of firsts happened during this first trip to Sydney: Bondi and Manly beach, random explorations, and the craziest wild nights, as well as chilled days in the city.
My final of the three trips included the bridge climb with friends I had first met in Perth, a couple of days in the Blue Mountains with my amazing then travel buddy, and a return to Bondi, in which I spent a further week with some amazing mates I had met further up the east coast a few months prior.
So Should I Go There?
Sydney is, by far, the most recognisable city in Australia, and possibly the world, with such icons as the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge.
So, you would think my answer would be an automatic involuntary regurgitation of "yes, you should go here". But I cannot follow through with this predictable answer, it isn’t that easy.
Let me explain: I love Melbourne, and cannot bring myself to love Sydney in the same way. Melbourne felt like home and had me hooked, and I just wasn’t wrenched from the bosom of Melbourne to join the Sydney ranks. The second reason is that the minute you leave the harbour up until the point when you meet the Blue Mountains it lacks culture, art, nature, love and atmosphere, and just becomes another city.
There is however a time where none of these matters, a time when Sydney shines bright across the world, and this, of course, is New Year.
If you are coming to this metropolis, then New Year is most certainly the time. Yes, it is manic, busy and potentially there are more people than beds, but there is a reason for that. Firstly, it’s summer across Australia, so the weather is more than likely to be gleaming. Secondly, it’s cricket season in the city, and that could mean a cheeky Ashes series in town, which is kind of a big deal in Australia. If either live sports or a piss-up in the sun is your thing, then I suggest tagging along.
Of course, the third reason, and the main event is Sydney’s New Year’s celebrations, which annually wow the world as the skies above the world-famous harbour are brimming with hands-down the best firework show you are ever likely to see.
As mentioned there are so many beauty spots across the city, enchanting boat rides, magical coves and beaches, the buzz of the harbourside, and of course, the staggering wilderness of the Blue Mountains. All of these options try to swing my vote on the question of should you come here? And in all honesty, they do. You should come here.
However, be prepared not to love it all, there is a lot of city in between the golden nuggets but if you are willing to wade through the shit, you will come up smelling of roses.
What to do when Backpacking Sydney
As you can imagine, there are so many fantastic sights and delights to be found within this gigantic and diverse city. A vast number can be found in the city, whilst others within the surrounding and coastal areas. It would almost be criminal if I wasn’t to start with some of the most famous sights in the city, and home to the New Years Eve celebrations. So that’s where I will start.
The Harbour Bridge Climb
On my third visit to Sydney I was reunited with the most wonderful couple who I first met in Perth many months prior. We had decided to make our reunion special so had decided to book on to a bridge climb, something I am sure is a bucket list item for many. There are many types of bridge climb you can jump on, so click on the above link and do your research. The costs differ depending on what you do.
It was an overcast afternoon in Sydney but this didn’t put us off in any way, it was still going to be an experience, and one that I would never forget. We got called through at 5pm, where we were given our suit fitting for the climb. It was the most flattering of costumes, even if I do say so myself - NOT. The three of us looked like we had stepped out of a race car.
Once we had completed the stylish photoshoot, we made our way out and under the road twenty minutes after suiting up, before starting the climb into the atmosphere and aloft the harbour. We climbed high above the water, with views out over the Opera House and across the city. After five or so ladders and the impressive archways, we finally summited the bridge, where we got a couple of photos from their professional photographer. We were lucky as, during our time at the top night started to fall over the city and we got the best of both worlds, the city by day and by night. We crossed the bridge and made it down the other side safely before sliding out of our suits at just over an hour later.
This experience was fantastic, and will literally take your breath away at times. Our leader was awesome, shouting out fascinating facts about the bridge and the surrounding areas. I had the most amazing experience and it was a truly magical way to say goodbye to my friends. I highly recommend this exhilarating tour during your time in Sydney.
The climb itself can be accomplished during the day time or twilight hours, giving for differing views of the stunning city. The cheapest climb is the sampler at $174 (~£95) per person, then there's the day climb which will cost you $308 (~£170), and on to the twilight and dawn ascents which will be in the ballpark figure of $380 (~£210) which isn’t the end of the world for a once in a lifetime experience. It is, however, a little cheeky to then ask for $59 (~£33) for a memory stick with all your photos and a short video on. They are your memories, so it's up to you whether you should begrudgingly pay it.
Opera House
One of life’s strangest buildings, yet one of the most endearing and visited in the world. Sydney’s Opera House stands on a plinth jetting out into the dangerous waters below. It is, as mentioned, the location for one of the most famous New Year’s Eve celebrations the world has to offer, as well as being the iconic building of this great nation. The Opera House is, however, far more than a visual masterpiece - it is home to culture, events, shows, performances, musical masterclasses, a bar and restaurant with views to dream about, and much more.
Whilst most of us, me included, are stunned and sent into a state of awe by the occasion of just being there, the majority don’t actually go inside. I really wished I had now. I assumed it was only the lucky few who got to step foot in the mystery beyond the doors, or maybe the rich and famous during an expensive Opera gig.
I stupidly thought I was all about taking in the architectural genius of the building, or the dazzling display of colours, patterns and stories when illuminated against the backdrop of the Sydney night sky. It’s not, there are tours, bars and restaurants up within the spikes of the building. My next trip to Sydney will include at least a tour and a drink in the swanky bars within the white walls.
Tours will set you back $42 with online bookings, so click the link above and enter a world neither of us here at Far Out has managed to see or experience YET.
Botanical Gardens
The world-famous Botanical Gardens is a vast site that spans near 75 acres from the ferocious chilling waters of the harbour, meandering their way into the outskirts of the CBD. Founded by one of the areas most famous sons, Governor Lachian Macquarie, who has links up and down the coast, including the town of Port Macquarie.
The botanical gardens have a memorial to the lady of the family in Mrs Macquarie’s Chair which, once you place your derrière in, provide you with beautiful views out over the harbour.
The colourful gardens capture that sense of peace and fill the air with the essence of sweet fragrances, which fill you with gentle tranquillity. It honestly is a stunning place to relax, grab a picnic or BBQ with mates, or have a kick about. I will always remember a small group of us digging into our picnic when we were attacked by a rabid local ibis who swooped in and decimated our crisp supplies. It was so funny at the time I couldn’t even be angry at the loss of food. Those that know me well, know that is normally punishable by death.
It isn’t all about the open spaces and the concoction of exquisiteness and calmness, it’s also about the lakes, the architecture, the brilliance of the Government House, The Calyx and Conservatorium of Music, not to mention the pool that splashes out over the harbour’s waves.
Personally, I think it's my favourite botanical gardens I’ve had the pleasure of visiting, and I can't wait until I am there again dodging the ibis and taking in the surroundings.
There are certain parts of the gardens which will cost pocket change (in terms of Sydney pricing), or you can pay for special events and tours which will guide you around the most gorgeous areas within the large site, informing you about the history of the area. If this is something you are interested in then you can check out more from the Botanical Gardens.
Beach Days
One of the most iconic places in Sydney has to be Bondi Beach. Bondi is a firm favourite for travellers in Sydney, so it is no coincidence at all that this famous beach is, more often than not, rammed solid with those looking to surf the shimmering waves before relaxing on the glistening, golden sands.
A word of warning: the beach gets so crowded it has led people to quite dislike the area, and with a constant threat of sharks, it can be a dangerous location too. Personally, none of that makes a difference - the water is crystal-clear, blue and warming to the touch, but cool enough to cleanse you from the relentless sun. I think it’s a magical area, and somewhere you have to see and experience for yourself. If you are not a fan, there are an abundance of others to choose from.
It is a little like the Melbourne v Sydney debate when it comes to Bondi and my next suggestion of Manly - you tend to take sides, and neither is wrong. Either way, you’ll end up in a location that is more than likely paradise.
So, Manly Beach. Again, expect a stretch of beautiful sands located to the northeast of the city looking out over the beautiful Pacific, next stop New Zealand. The beauty of this thin strip of heaven are beyond words. I took a couple of trips out to Manly.
The experience starts when you jump onboard the ferry in the heart of Sydney, as you pull out of the harbour looking back on these beautiful landmarks and buildings before disembarking in the sweet peaceful shores of Manly, a few minutes walk from the beach itself.
Both Manly and Bondi have so much more than just the beachfront, with boutique shops, cafes and bars, the whole area breeds life and laughter, and it's easy to fall in love with either. The ideal life vibes course through both and the vibrancy is infectious. You just can’t help but smile.
If I was pushed for an answer on my favourite, I would have to factor in the amazing boat ride to Manly, and the stunning Bondi to Coogee walk hugging the cliffs and coves. I would book my ticket on the ferry over to Manly, but as I get to the port, I would throw my bag on my back, hop on the bus and shoot down to Bondi for the week.
Both are fantastic places to lap up the rays, chill in the smooth waters and enjoy a day of peace and tranquillity. If neither float your boat (which I can’t even begin to imagine) there are still other beautiful bays and caressing coves that you cannot help but fall in love with. To name a couple, you have Coogee Beach, Rose Bay Beach, Bronte and Tamarama.
The Blue Mountains
The western fringes of Sydney are pushed back to the harbour waters by the outstanding natural haven that is the Blue Mountains, which stand tall and proud for miles upon miles, providing some of the country’s most lush scenery. For me, these mountains are about as important to experience as to see as the Opera House or climb the Harbour Bridge. No trip to Sydney is complete with a short walk around the mountains. I promise you they won’t leave you with the blues.
Like most activities within Sydney and the surrounding areas, you have a few options. The first of which is to hire a car and head out to the mountains for a day or two and experience life at your own pace, exploring the paths you choose.
Your next option is to take a tour. Again, there are more than a handful of tour guides and companies that offer a wide range of choices within the mountains, and I am sure they all offer very similar hikes, information and experiences, each claiming to be the best priced, fun or most popular. Well, one of them has to be right, right?
All I can say is the tour I took was fantastic, the guide was crazy and kept us entertained for the duration. I decided early on that I wanted to see the blue mountains properly so opted for a couple of days in the area. If the timing had allowed, I would have stayed a couple more nights.
Basically, the tour is a day trip with the option of being dropped off at a hotel/hostel within the small town located in the mountains. You will then be collected at the set time on an agreed date to continue the tour, making sure you not only complete what you had paid for, but you make it back to Sydney.
The tour provided an in-depth explanation of the area whilst walking the weaving reddened pathways, waterfalls and cliffs, lunch, a side-splitting comic of a guide, the transport to and from Sydney, and a ride on the world’s steepest passenger railway to the dizzying heights of the mountain tops. I mean, what more could you want from a day or two out of the big city, especially when you mix it in with some of the photogenic scenery around?
As mentioned, there will be many tours on offer, and whilst I can only speak for one, I think with a bit of research you will find the right one for you, just as long as you don’t miss out on this wonderful educational journey. Click the link below to see more on the tour I took. What I will say is consider the pickup points around Sydney, as you may what to stay near for ease the morning of the tour.
The Blue Mountains tour costs $300 (~£165) with AATKings and was, whilst expensive, worth every penny.
The Sydney Tower (The Eye)
I am sure when the Eye was first conceived and opened in the early 1980s, back when the city height restrictions were in place, the 360-degree view would have been beyond stunning, something I really wished I had been around to see. But nowadays, with the immense number of skyscrapers and grand buildings surrounding the cities CBD, the views have been all but ruined.
I was very disappointed with the view from the observational deck, and whilst the price won’t hurt your wallet too much, it still felt like a bit of a wasted hour or so.
Whilst there are some stunning views back out across the harbour and city as far as my eye could legitimately see, it just couldn’t mask my disappointment of not being able to look down with unobscured views of the Opera House and Bridge.
I love the view of the tower from outside, which during sunrise and sunset are a shimmering delight as the sun's ray’ glance off the golden exterior that surrounds the eye like crystal light.
Above I have mentioned the hit on the wallet, and yes, it is only a smidgen (for Aus) at $29 (~£16) per person, and it is a one-time experience, so I cannot argue too much with that, but I just didn’t enjoy it. When I return, I would take that money and spend it in one of the food markets around the city.
Darling Harbour
Sail under the Harbour Bridge, moor up and you will find the outgoing and fashionable Darling Harbour, where bars and restaurants replace shops, a place where sealife and entertainment venues reign supreme.
The little harbour is a brilliant suburb of Sydney, and somewhere I highly
recommend for a relaxing drink for a film with friends, or maybe that special first
date.
The south of the harbour marks the start of Chinatown, a sassy, flamboyant and fun area to be, and again the perfect place for foodies. To the west, the pong of the fish market, with some of the freshest fish and seafood on offer in Sydney, drifts through on the sea breeze.
The Harbour is also home to the Maritime Museum and other major attractions, such as Madame Tussauds as well as the fish market, which for foodies is somewhere I have to recommend. I will bring this up again within the food section below. I really like the vibe and the feel to the area as a whole, and whilst some of the prices within the bars can be inflated, it's worth the extra cost
The Rocks
Famed for being one of the oldest ‘westernised’ settlements in Australia after the claiming of Botany Bay to the south by the English, the Rocks, whilst small, are now a tourist hotspot with bars, pubs and markets, as well as being the historical centre of Sydney CBD.
The main reasons the tourists are attracted to the area has to be for the harbour views across to the Opera House, and the fun of Luna Park on the northern bank of the harbour. The architectural prowess of the buildings is another reason, as you're transported back to a time before the skyscrapers and cars ruled the city. It is truly a great place to be, whilst shaded by the vast expanse that is the Harbour Bridge.
Other Suggestions
With Sydney being such a significant and imposing city, it has far more to offer than ‘just’ my suggestions, other ideas include the delights of Chinatown, shopping in the CBD, kayaking under the harbour bridge, a helicopter tour over the harbour, tours both under and on the coastal waters, it really is never-ending.
Whatever you chose to do within the city limits and beyond I am sure will be exhilarating and fun. Whilst I like to give my honest opinion on things, you may find them a different experience. With places like Sydney, they are so far away from most of the rest of the world, they tend to be a once in a lifetime experience, so try something new, give it 100% and do everything your finances allow.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking Sydney
During my stays in Sydney, it’s fair to say I’ve been about. I have managed to throw my bag in numerous dorms, making my home around the ginormous city. Some accommodation was better than others, and some a sheer health hazard if I am honest.
So, let’s start with that health hazard - Mad Monkey Backpackers (Formerly Brado’s), located in the crazy world of Kings Cross, which is one hell of a wild suburb of Sydney. I have more memories and stories from my week in Kingscross than months in some countries, some of which I cannot bring myself to divulge just yet. One story which I think explains the hostel that I can tell goes like this:
Having arrived dripping in sweat after hiking with my bags across the city and stepping up to the happy chappy at the front desk, all after dodging the street dealers that hung around the entrance, I was asked if I wanted some weed, which I declined. Having been told my room number, and where to find it, I made my way up to find Dave (a Canadian legend) sat on the bunks laughing at me. All I wanted was a shower. Well, I could have walked into that shower drenched in sweat and walked out with the completed set of STIs. It was disgusting. It also included a visit from the room’s residential pothead who flung in through the window to kindly offer me a joint as I showered, again, which I declined. It went on and on like this, and things never really got any cleaner, tidier or more professional. I now hear you asking "A week? Why did you stay that long?".
I will tell you why, because it was one of the best places I have ever stayed.
The events the hostel put on, the location and vicinity to the bars, clubs, restaurants, shops, I could go on... It was just brilliant. There was always something going on and it was always entertaining. I just remember me and the guys laughing and joking constantly - I met some of the most amazing, likeminded people and we had the times of our lives. No amount of dirt and grime mattered - it was hell, but it was our hell, and we loved it. I cannot recommend this place enough. If you are young, don’t mind a bit of mess and are looking for stories, experiences and at a cut-price then stay here. You will think I am mad, but then suddenly you will see what we saw, and it's pure brilliance. Some of the girls in our dorm swear down that they have the tattoo of the hostel's logo on their ass cheeks. Again, I like to believe that’s true, anything can happen here, so why not?
Let’s talk costs: if you enjoy a busy dorm and do not mind the 14-bed mix dorms then prices are a little more in your favour. A week’s stay will set you back about $31 (~£20) per night, so $217 (£140) for the week. If you do enjoy a little more privacy then expect a couple more dollars to be added per night, with 10, 8 and 4-bed dorms on offer.
Next on the list of places to stay is the comfy, more professional and slightly upper-class Wake Up! Sydney, which can be found lurking on George Street outside of the main train station. Only a 20-minute walk down George Street from the grand city attractions on the harbour, this perfectly acceptable hostel will be more than enough for the majority of us. It is clean, tidy, well set out, has a lot of amenities and informative & knowledgeable staff.
There isn’t much else I can say about this place. It's great but is lacking the personal touch you get in the smaller, unique hostels, but that’s something I find with these big chains. I guess it’s a personal preference: do you go for stories and fun, but sacrifice a bit of comfort and possibly a body part, or have that comfort and cleanliness, but not have the stories to match.
When we talk rooms and finances at the Wake-Up! Sydney we are looking at many options, from 10 bed dorm’s all the way down to private twin rooms with en-suite. A week’s stay in Wake Up! during the same summer months, as above with Mad Monkeys, will set you back around $39 (~£21) per night ($272, ~£150) a week.
Prices then rise rapidly as the number of beds decline. A 6-bed mixed dorm will set you back $300 (~£165) a week, then on up to the en-suite double bed costing a staggering $1,078 (~£590).
Possibly the better option within the city is Sydney Central YHA, which takes its place alongside Wake Up! Sydney on George Street. When I say better option, what I really mean is, if you are looking to explore the city with family or friends and don’t want to pay hotel prices, but on the other hand also don’t want to be in a conventional hostel, then this is the place for you. It has that privacy, comfort and hotel feel. If, however, you are young, a solo traveller, or looking for laughter, fun, and games, then I guarantee you will find it lifeless and soulless.
I do not know what it is, but I have only ever found two YHA’s with that small hostel feel built around excitement and laughter, they are in Liverpool, England and the below Blue Mountains YHA. In general, I have found that they are hostels for those who want to 'hotel' (keep themselves to themselves and just get on with what they have to do), but without wanting to pay the hotel prices. They are like a Toyota Prius: efficient, economical, and does the job it sets out to do, but is just boring as hell to be in. This YHA is no different, and I cannot recommend it unless you are wanting to avoid the riffraff.
Let’s go for costs anyway. Remember its real competitor is the Wake-Up! and I would suggest if you are looking at either of these, just go for the cheapest, they are very similar in all aspects.
Looking over the same week in December an 8-bed mixed dorm will set you back $39 (~£21) a night, which all adds up to $272 (~£150). Guess where you’ve seen that price before.
Prices for the 5-bed dorms go for $43 (£24) a night, $301 (~£166) a week. In fairness to this experiment, I will also give you the price for the en-suite double prices, starting at $135 (~£74) per night, $945 (~£59) a week.
And now for a touch of class and beauty. The Blue Mountains YHA is easily one of the most beautiful hostels I have ever seen, let alone stayed at, even though it has those ominous three letters attached. The hostel and its gardens are not only aesthetically pleasing but peaceful. With very little for miles around, the small town showcases its brilliance in a unique and exquisite way. The surrounding mountains are a must during any trip to Sydney and I cannot urge you enough to stay here. The hostel was a YHA, but with a homely friendly and fun feel. I could have stayed for months on end, but sadly time didn’t allow.
This is a hybrid of hostels, where the YHA efficiency, comfort and cleanliness is combined with the unique, home-run, small hostel feel with life, atmosphere and laughter. It would be my number one choice when I one day return to the Blue Mountains.
I would suggest staying a couple of nights minimum, preferably 4-5 should you have the time. Prices? Hell, it doesn’t matter what the prices are, just pay it.
Alright then, 8-bed dorms will set you back $34 (~£19) a night, whilst the 5 beds kick off at $38 (~£29) a night.
Again, slightly out of the CBD and only a hop, skip, and a jump from one of the most famous beaches in the world, my next suggestion is Bondi Beachhouse YHA. Now, I know this is turning into a who’s who of YHAs. Whilst I mention it and do recommend it, it lacks the love and feeling the Blue Mountains YHA offers. It does, however, add more than most YHAs whilst sticking to its efficiency and professionalism.
Ideally located with views over the deep blue from the rooftop terrace, the hostel throws in a few nice touches like free sun-cream, which you can use not just for the sun terrace, but for the beach itself. It doesn’t sound a lot but really helps keep you safe, whilst saving a fair bit of dollar in the process. Sun cream in Australia is not cheap.
Talking of cheap, let’s talk about money. This hostel, when you consider where you are, is very reasonably priced, during the same weeks in December it costs $30 (~£16.50) per night for the 8-bed dorms, and rises to $36 (~£20) a night for the 4 beds. The double bed with private bathroom will set you back a cool $110 (~£60.50) per night. Gulp...
I really had a great time here, which was mainly due to the group of lads I was travelling with at the time; however, this is a good location for the lone traveller. You will meet others at the hostel all looking to get dragged into bars or surf lessons, which suited my needs at the time.
I guess in essence that’s what you need to take away from this, each hostel on its own merits has a positive and negative, it all depends on what you are looking for at the time of your travels. This is all only advice, so go with your heart and whichever you think best suits you.
I also spent a week chilling with some of the most amazing Norwegian students at their apartment in Bondi itself. Sometimes you really need a break from hostels and hotels, and you need that hint of normality. Apartment living does this, it refuels you and gets you back into the travelling mood, ready for the mayhem and madness to ensue once again.
Where to Eat When Backpacking Sydney
I don’t even know where to start with food in the metropolis that is Sydney. Wherever you look, whichever direction your nose takes you, there will be tastes of the world and smells that will drag you in into the darkest of food comas. The faintest sniff of freshly baked products can be all you need before ending up pigging out in one of many markets, cafes, bakeries and restaurants.
It is at one of the markets that I think I will start, through no reason other than I have touched upon it earlier in the blog: - the whiffy Sydney Fish Market, which can be found a short walk from Darling Harbour on the water’s edge at Blackwattle Bay. This smelliest of markets reeks far out and beyond, almost as if to say “Hi guys, don’t forget I’m here”. Whilst it can be a rude reminder, it is one I recommend taking the time to investigate, there are more awards on offer here than the Oscars.
Within the market, there are a number of different stalls, shops, restaurants and cafes, all putting their own take on their foods, and if, like me, you enjoy the hustle of bustle, the excitement, and the buzz of a market, this will not disappoint. Have a wander around before making your choice, there is nothing worse than filling yourself silly only to find a more appetising dish on the other side of the market.
Now, I am by no means a fish or seafood fan, but what the worldwide and immensely talented chefs concoct behind these blue and white walls are astonishing. The different herbs and condiments bring out flavours into each dish whilst the presentation is precise, making for that all-round perfect culinary experience. Do not worry if you really cannot dig the fishy dish, there are other options throughout, but I have to recommend giving it a go.
The market is more than just about the food, its also a centre of education on not just cookery, but of sustainability and preservation of our planet, mainly concentrating on fishing and our diminishing sea life.
Staying with markets, my next suggestion can be located almost under the Harbour Bridge, only two streets back from the docking bay of the large cruise ships within the oldest part of the Sydney, the Rocks. The Rocks Food Markets is a winner with foods from around the world, you are sure to find your ideal bite amongst European meals from the likes of Spain, Italy and Poland, South American specialities, and more Asian cuisine than even I can eat.
Most of the market is undercover but there are a few stalls out in the elements, which, let’s be honest, is going to be hot and sunny, so it really is all looking good. The smells and tastes are just fantastic, it really is a wonderful location with some of the happiest workers I have seen. I wish I was that happy to be at work. This happiness shines through in their food, its what I imagine an artist to be like once they have finished their Last Supper or Mona Lisa.
The thing I loved about the market is that there are other stalls selling unique and handmade gifts and gadgets in amongst the chaos, making for an all-round perfect atmosphere. More importantly, it's something to keep you busy between dishes.
At the opposite end of the food spectrum to the markets, yet just as mouth-watering is the restaurants. Restaurants are in copious supply within Sydney, no matter your taste there is a restaurant for you, and in a location to suit.
Throughout my travels, I have had several special moments, one of which is here in Sydney. After years of looking at pictures and dreaming about being in this special location, that first night and that first glimpse of the bridge and Opera House is something that will stay with me forever. Having taken it all in as night fell, we took our table in Searock Gill. There I was, relaxing with my mates and consuming some of the best foods, gazing out to the delights of the wonderfully lit Harbour Bridge reflecting on the rippling incoming tides. It almost brought a tear to my eye.
Suddenly the pictures of old were real, they were accompanied by a sensation of delicious food smells, the noises of life and excitement, and the movements of the water slowly flowing inland. That is something pictures don’t give you. I can hear you asking the question: is the restaurant as good as the surroundings?
Yes, it truly is, the food was exceptional. The three of us had steak and chips, surf and turf, and the seafood curry, which we washed down with a bottle of red. The meats were cooked to perfection and accompanied by forks stuffed full of food I believe was cooked by the angels themselves. I know we paid for the pleasures of eating with world-beating views, but it didn’t matter. The bill, which amassed slightly over $200, was worth every single cent. The staff, whilst obviously busy, were always polite and friendly, and there isn’t anything I can say to dampen the mood of this beautifully crafted restaurant. Take me back.
Whilst I am mentioning delightful foods with famous views, I had best mention Lush on Bondi which can be found down on arguably the worlds most famous beach – surprisingly, Bondi. This little beachfront delight, with plenty of seating outside, allows for stunning views from breakfast through to the beauty that is dusk over Bondi. Whilst it doesn’t provide foods that will change your world, it will give you exactly what you are looking for - a hearty breakfast fuelling your day's surf, a decent parmi or burger and chips, or, for those trying to fit in with the beach babes, a healthy colourful salad. Drinks range from a hot choccie to a good old-fashioned cooling beer for those summer days. We spent many lunchtimes relaxing here working our way through the menu, and I do not recall a bad meal. Thoroughly recommend, and not just for those views.
Again, within the wonder that is Bondi, and moving on to one of my favourite restaurants in the area: Bondi Trattoria. This little fire of Italian horsepower overlooks the western bank of Bondi and is located on the main road that sweeps around the beach, nestled between a couple of other shops and restaurants. The outdoor seating that welcomes you with open arms is a winning start to the visit, and this is further extended by the staff. However, this is all eclipsed by the sensational foods, full of flavour, each mouthful mind-blowingly impressive.
Between us, our table managed to test out most of the Italian classics, from pizza to bolognese and on through to carbonara and something I have forgotten the name of. I can only describe what I personally had as a bowl of perfection. It was a cross between bolognese and carbonara, which sounds weird I know, but really was delicious. I will endeavour to find out what it was called, but I recommend it. Saying that, all they guys recommended their dish, which I think shows the quality of this restaurant. Another top tip: the garlic bread for sides, it’s a must.
As there were two of the team destroying the pizzas, they won the ‘best dish’ battle, and I, therefore, must recommend the pizza as a number on best buy at Bondi Trattoria.
I really do love a good Italian, and I couldn’t leave this little section of the write up without giving a big shout out to Pompeii’s. This Italian was only just pipped at the post by Bondi Trattoria but is by no means a 2nd placed restaurant. Located one road back from the beachfront you lose the views, but gain a stupendous taste of Italy.
Back in the city but happily staying on the Italian theme - just. Pizza is the only Italian thing about Frankie’s Pizza down on Hunter Street, but that, in my view, is not a bad start. The dark and cosy place had a hint of Mediterranean décor (hint is being kind), it’s a mash-up of random signs, hanging garlic bulbs and ornaments, which I really loved. The pizza was scrumptious and would be somewhere I would make a beeline for on my next visit.
Whilst I could go on and on with not only Italians but restaurants in general, I am going to call this my last one. I could be here all day otherwise.
The one thing you do notice with Australian cuisine is the large Asian influence. I guess that’s not too surprising when you look at the relative distance between the continents. Therefore, the final contender slipping into my list can only be the delicious and relatively cheap for what you get, Fortune Village Chinese. It is fair to say I’ve tried my share of Asian meals on several continents, but the shredded duck was amongst the best I have had. Everything was spot on, from the attitude of the staff, the speed of service and surroundings, but none of this is touched by the brilliance of the food itself. I love this place, and if you are a fan of Asian foods then add this to your list of must-eat locations.
My overarching memories of this place will always be that first forkful of shredded duck… It was beyond anything the magic circle could conjure up.
Others that you should consider include the franchise Three Beans, they are scattered across the city - I personally visited the delightful little place in Manly. If you find yourself in the heart of the city and a craving for simple quick easy food, then look no further than the pub Three Wise Monkeys, serving refreshing beers and great pub grub at great prices (for the city). And finally, a delightful Asian Food Market next to Hyde Park. To find it, head to Hyde Park, look to the skies, take in one deep long breath and let the smells guide you in. It's fantastic. Have the Pad Thai, it’s a gift from God himself.
Where to Drink and Party when Backpacking Sydney
Sydney has many different areas when it comes to bars, nightlife and drinking in general, they range from the fine and fancy in and around the harbour to the spectacular and hipster down on Bondi. Both of which flank the madness that is Kings Cross.
Having mentioned the stunning Bondi Beach area throughout the previous paragraphs, I am going to start there as Bondi isn’t just food; it has some of the best nightlife and beachfront bars too.
The first of which is the fantastic restaurant-come-bar called Glory Days Bondi, which replaces the famous Bucket List, located right on the beach. I could easily have mentioned it in the food section as well but I loved to chill here with a drink, so it’s going under the drinking section.
What looks a fairly innocuous building during the day comes alive as the night's sky rolls in. The outdoor area lights up against the dark backdrop like a Christmas tree standing tall and proud and brightening the dullest of homes. The atmosphere grows into the evening as laughter and the chatter of hopeful surfers fills the air. There is a real beach/surfer themed style (which isn’t surprising), and the delicious splash of colours that adorn its wooden tables and benches make for a cool place to relax. I’m not sure if it was the vibe or the fantastic cocktails, but this really is one of my favourite places in Bondi. I always felt welcome, relaxed and just happy to be there.
Now, a disclaimer: I am not massively into clubbing. Therefore, next on my Bondi nightlife list is The Speakeasy Bar, located a few streets back from the beach. The Speakeasy isn’t somewhere you would go for a heavy session, however it is somewhere clean, classy and relaxing. The perfect place to start a night or relax with friends over a bottle of wine or a nice whisky. The dark settings, funky furniture and unique feel to the place adds a hint of sophistication and suave. I am neither of these things, but really enjoyed a couple of nights relaxing here prior to hitting the beachfront clubs and bars.
Whilst in the Bondi area, you may also want to check out the vibes at a few of my other favourite bars and clubs, such as The Bavarian Bondi Beach, Hotel Bondi, which really kicks on certain nights of the week, and of course one of the backpackers favourites - The Vue on the seafront, where there is never a dull moment.
Back in the city centre now, and with views over the fantastic Opera House and beyond, The Glenmore Bar is a must in my opinion. Again, this could easily have made it into the food section, as it must be one of the best fish and chip meals I had in Australia, and when you factor in that view, why not?
I did, however, decide to add it to the drinking section as I feel it deserves a mention. The ground floor is a traditional old, almost English pub with a cracking atmosphere, but The Glenmore is all about that view. Head up the narrow staircase to the left of the bar and make your way up to the rooftop. There is a bar located on the rooftop, and table service meaning you don’t ever have to leave the rooftop if you don't want, which isn’t a bad thing. The one thing I will say, if there is a group of you, it is best to book as there isn’t a lot of space up there, and you will want to ask for a table with a view of the Opera House, as some of the tables do miss out.
The staff are fantastic - they are friendly, attentive and helpful, and I think even I would be with a working environment like that. Honestly, it’s a great place, and if you manage to get here, I am sure you will agree.
Only two doors down from The Glenmore Bar you will find the lively bar aptly named The Australian, technically The Australian Heritage Hotel. Not a typical suggestion by any stretch of the imagination, but I really liked its unique qualities and funky interior. Again, the staff were really great, always willing to have a laugh and a joke whilst being ruthlessly efficient.
I am not sure what it was about The Australian, but it felt warming and comfortable, and I really liked its location and setting. The outdoor seating sprawls out on to the pavement, almost taking up the road, and there is just a great atmosphere throughout. It had something that pulled me in, give it a try. I think you’ll enjoy its ‘je ne sais pas’.
There are so many bars and clubs in and around the city, once again I could mention a list longer than you or I dare to read, Darling Harbour has a plethora of beautiful waterfront bars, whilst The Rocks have wave upon wave of bars crashing around them. On, and into the city you will find stunning locations to relax with an alcoholic beverage, such as the fantastic rooftop bars of The Rook and Zeta, or leaving the dizzying heights for the cocktail bars back on the ground level such as the Marble Bar. You really are spoiled for choice.
But now, I must do a shout out for one of the craziest areas I have ever had the pleasure, or displeasure, of drinking, and that’s the famed Kings Cross. The stories I could tell you would leave you amazed, bewildered and baffled, and that’s just the ones I can tell you. Keep your hands on your wallet, stay away from the mad lady who roams the streets, and just go wild with the hundreds of other backpackers that roam wild like zombies into the early hours. It's AMAZING…
This is about the cheapest area in the city to grab a drink, with clubs opening until 0600hrs and beyond. I can not/will not give you any direction here, as the bars and clubs change frequently, but a couple of staple locations will always be O’Malley’s and the Potts Point, previously The Sugar Mill. Both are a cheap and cheerful place to start the night, however, its Kings Cross: it's all about hostel drinking and getting smashed up before heading to the clubs after midnight.
Good luck, and stay safe you crazy nutters.
What You'll Need to Blend In
A love of the Sydney Swans
Pride, passion and a sense of fashion
A love of shopping
Cash, and a lot of it
Hello thank you for your article, I also travel a lot (I have this chance ,-)) but I do not yet know this city that I dream of discovering so thank you for your detailed page and look forward to leaving. Good luck. Take care ,-) Sarah