Walking the Brecon Beacons: Mountains to Waterfalls
Last Updated: August 17, 2024
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Escape to the Mountains
There is something ferocious about this part of the Welsh landscape, as the vast waves of green ebb and flow like a stormy sea as far as the horizon. And walking the Brecon Beacons is no different. In truth, it is like being in a small dingy in a twelve-foot swell as you crash behind waterfalls, summit the peaks, and face the often extreme weather head-on.
That said, there is a majestic beauty to the Brecon Beacons too. It will encapture you and ignite a sense of exploration deep within.
Notably, the Brecon Beacons are a red sandstone mountain range that runs through the heart of the Brecon Beacons National Park, which, in turn, is a much larger expanse of land.
In effect, the National Park runs from the town of Llanthony next to the England Wales border, sweeping across to the small town of Llandeilo in the west. Likewise, it also ranges from just north of Brecon, running south to Merthyr Tydfil.
You could spend months and months walking the Brecon Beacons and still have more to see. There is a new view, a new mountain and a new waterfall every day. Of course, there is also a new pub, a new beer and a new crackling log fire to collapse in front of too.
So come on, what are you waiting for. Let us show you around some of Wales's most prized scenery.
Having been born and bred only an hour away from the Brecon Beacons, I have managed to clamber behind its thundering waterfalls, sit aloft its famous peaks and come face to face with its stunning wildlife. Now, I am here to guide you around the best things to do in the Brecon Beacons and take you on some of its famous walks.
What's The Brecon Beacons Like?
From the peaks to the valley floors, you'll discover a diverse landscape within the Brecons. There are quiet, barren grounds where the only sounds are that of the wind and your panting breath to lush forests where colour, life and sound are in abundance.
At its heart are the Brecon Mountain ranges, which peak at Pen y Fan at 886 meters above sea level. From the peak, you'll see the true extent of what the Brecons are. They're an ever-changing landscape rolling with the seasons, as harsh snows pile in during the winter and rampant greenery takes control through the summer. No two visits are the same.
Tumbling down from Pen y Fan, you'll uncover a world of thunderous waterfalls, sublime lakes, inquisitive wildlife, and more trails than even I have covered. The Brecon Beacons are Mother Nature at her best.
Sporadic small villages hidden within the valleys breathe life into the otherwise fresh natural sounds of birds, wind and running water. These towns and villages are proud Welsh territories, and that means a steady flow of beer, plenty of laughter and even more song. After all, no one does a village like the Welsh.
In truth, whether you're Walking the Brecon Beacons or crashing under the gaze of a public house roof, it's simply beautiful.
You're quite literally in the Land of my Fathers.
How to Get To The Brecon Beacons
Ok, so there are a few options for this one...
If you're coming from:
Cardiff: the Welsh capital, it's a forty-five-minute drive north on the A470 to Merthyr Tydfil.
London, Bristol and the south of England: Head west on the M4 over the Prince of Wales Bridge, past Newport to Cardiff, and turn north onto the A470 to Merthyr Tydfil.
Newport: Join the guys and girls above on the M4 west to Cardiff and take the A470 north to Merthyr Tydfil. It's only forty-five minutes, which is quicker than the B42551 north past Risca.
Swansea: You're looking at a forty-minute jaunt up to the M4, changing onto the A483 to Trapp which is on the western fringes of the Brecons.
Pembrokeshire and the west - From the city of Haverfordwest, in the heart of Pembrokeshire, head east on the A40 through Camarthen to Llandeilo on the westernmost part of the Brecon Beacons.
Anglesey and Northwest Wales: Frankly, it's a long three-hour twenty-minute drive, but it's an easy one. Take the A470 to Builth Wells, and then take the B4520 to the town of Brecon.
Birmingham and the northeast: Aim for Birmingham. From here it's two hours starting with the M5 to Worcester before changing onto the A4103 to Hereford. Change on to the A438 until just after Staunton on Wye, where you'll need to change onto the B4352 to Hay-on-Wye, on the northernmost extremities of the Brecons.
Liverpool, Manchester the North West: Head to Chester and then take the A483 or A5, same thing, all the way to Shrewsbury and then change onto the A49 to Craven Arms. From here, head south until you hit the A4112. Stay on there for 30 seconds and turn right on to the A438 to Whitney-on-Wye and then south on the B4350 to Hay-on-Wye.
Timing your Trip
How Long Should You Spend Walking the Brecon Beacons
If the weather is good, you'll never want to leave! Then again, as long as it's walkable, you won't want to leave the Brecons in the snowstorms either.
In truth, you could spend a week walking the Brecon Beacons and still want more. However, that will rely on your legs, your fitness and how cosy your accommodation is. But a week is about right to cover the activities and walks on offer.
The Best Time Of The Year For Walking the Brecon Beacons
As with many places in the United Kingdom, the weather plays a massive role in when is best to visit. Here, in the Brecons, almost everything is outside, and that means you'll want dry, preferably warmer weather.
Therefore, if you aim for May through to September, you'll experience the best of the Brecons. That said, if you get a crisp-cold, blue sky day in March or April, that is perfect for the like of climbing Pen y Fan.
Finally, I will point out that if you're after thunderous waterfalls, they are most ferocious after the rains. It does, however, make it more tricky to get behind them. Your call!
Where to Stay Whilst Walking the Brecon Beacons
When it comes to accommodation in the Brecon Beacons, there are only two things we're all after, and that, my friends, is staying within walking distance of a decent country pub and views of those all-conquering mountains.
After that comes a log burner, hot tubs on the veranda and the price.
Therefore, the best accommodation in the Brecon Beacons will be on the outskirts of one of the villages nestled within the National Park. A couple of my suggestions include the towns of Crickhowell and Brecon.
However, no matter your sense of adventure or expectation, there will be something for you: a shepherd's hut, country cottage, manor house, or castle. It's all available and will likely be on one of these two websites.
Things to do when Walking the Brecon Beacons
The Brecon Beacons are awash with epic landscapes, and the best way of seeing them is to put on your walking boots and explore on foot. Where possible, leave the car at the accommodation, and venture out into the wild. You won't regret it.
Over the years I've been to the Brecon Beacons on numerous occasions. I guess that's the beauty of living about an hour away. I am first to admit that not everything is worth doing or seeing, and some of the walks are an "I've done it and don't need to do it again kinda thing".
So, I'm skipping them and giving you the 'must-do' events whilst visiting the Brecon Beacons.
My list consists of vicious swans, a famous film location, cute market towns, two mountains, several walks and even more waterfalls.
Final thought
Make sure you're well-prepped for walking the Brecon Beacons. Especially if you plan to scale the highest peaks. Below are a couple of bits of kit I use whenever I'm in the Brecons.
Click the images for more!
Walking the Brecon Beacons: The Highlights
Clamber up Pen y Fan
- Why: Because you need that tinder pic at the top
- Where: In the heart of the Brecon Beacons, just south of the town of Brecon. (map)
- How long: It's a half-day excursion in total. Say two and a bit hours climbing.
- How much: Currently free. However, there is talk about charging £7.50 for the onsite parking.
All you singletons will know Pen y Fan because every single person (literally) has a picture of themselves at the top on their tinder profile.
Yes, it is impressive, but please stop.
Pen y Fan is also famed throughout the UK as the highest mountain in the Brecon Beacons, standing at 886 meters tall. That makes it Wales's twentieth tallest peak.
Starting at the carpark - you cross a little footbridge and follow the river for roughly two hundred meters. Then, it's up up up as you begin the ascent. The views get more and more impressive as you climb, and by the time you get to the 'basecamp' at the foot of Corn Du, you'll have almost 360-degree views of the sublime Brecons.
The first peak is Corn Du, the second-highest peak in the Brecons, and whilst another up and down, it's worth the clamber over the rocks. Once at the top, look right to Pen y Fan before you embark on the last three hundred meters to the summit.
Treat yourself at the carpark with a hot chocolate and a beacon, sausage and egg roll. It is magical.
The walk provides stunning views throughout, and whilst, at times, breathtaking, it isn't massively challenging. That, for me, makes it a must-do whilst walking the Brecon Beacons.
Stand Aloft Sugarloaf Mountain
- Why: It's a beautiful walk, plus it ties in perfectly with other things to do in the Brecon Beacons.
- Where: On the northern fringes of Abergavenny. (map)
- How long: You can make it as long or as short as you like, but bank on a minimum of two hours.
- How much: Free!
Whilst not as high, famous or impressive as Pen y Fan, I prefer this walk.
Firstly, it isn't as steep. Therefore, it's a bit easier. Secondly, there are far fewer people around, and finally, there's the beautiful town of Crickhowell nearby.
My advice is to park at the National Trust carpark or one of the two smaller unofficial parking areas just before.
Leaving the carpark, you can follow one of many paths to Sugarloaf, and they're all relatively easy-going. That is until you get within 200 meters of the top when the challenge begins.
Suddenly, a nice path becomes rocky, steep and somewhat uneasy underfoot. The scramble to the top is energetic, tricky and frankly, entertaining.
From the top, you once again have 360-degree views of the beautiful Brecons.
If you're lucky on the way down you will also get to meet the local wildlife, aka the Brecon horses that roam the surrounding fields.
Experience The Four Falls Trail
- Why: Simple, who doesn't like waterfalls!
- Where: A short fifteen-minute drive north of Hirwaun. (map)
- How long: It's another half-day hike. Give yourself three and a half to four hours from the carpark.
- How much: The walk is free, but you'll want to park, which costs £4.
Due to how much there is to see and do on the Four Falls Trail, I have written a separate blog covering everything you need to know about this walk. Click here for my Four Falls Trail blog.
However, if you don't have time for that 9 minute read, here is the overview.
This is one of my favourite routes when walking the Brecon Beacons, but then again, I'm a sucker for a waterfall, and this has plenty of them.
Whilst called the Four Falls Trail - there are many more smallish falls throughout the walk to admire. Yet the main four are Sgwd Clun-Gwyn Waterfall, Sgwd Isaf Clun-Gwyn, Sgwd y Pannwr and the one you can all walk-behind - Sgwd Yr Eira.
After the rains, the river runs at a ferocious rate, and the waterfalls crash and tumble downstream at a great pace. Whilst impressive, it does make it a lot harder to get behind the final waterfall on the trail Sgwd Yr Eira. The forest adds a lush green colouring to the walk, whilst the sounds of birds chirping and water boom through the canyon.
The terrain is everchanging throughout the walk, and it is longer and harder on the legs than you may expect. In truth, I found this harder than Pen y Fan.
Go Behind The Batcave
- Why: Again, there are waterfalls, an old mill, and the entrance to the Bat Cave.
- Where: Henrhyd Falls is ten minutes north of Glynneath. (map)
- How long: Walking from the carpark to the old mill and back will take around two and a half hours.
- How much: It's all free, as long as you park in the free carpark right next to the pay and display one.
Ultimately, this is similar to the Four Falls Trail, just not as well known and with fewer powerful waterfalls. Furthermore, the walk is more leisurely than the Four Falls, Pen y Fan and Sugar Loaf. That said, the conditions underfoot are not always easy. There are boarded paths, slippery rocks, mud paths, steps, the lot.
So, again, make sure you come prepared with a decent set of walking boots.
The main draw to this delightful forest walk is the 90-foot Henrhyd Fall which stared as the entrance to Batman's bat cave in the film, The Dark Knight. You can effortlessly get in behind the falls (without getting too wet) and enjoy a view through the water back out down the valley.
Along the walk, there are several other falls to enjoy, and if you're feeling brave, swim. There's also a ruined old mill and fantastic forest colours overhead. I love this hike and think it's one of the most underrated walks in the Brecon Beacons.
Visit Crickhowell
- Why: It is a pretty little market town and is a fantastic base for Sugar Loaf and other trips around the Brecon Beacons.
- Where: A short drive northwest of Abergavenny. (map)
- How long: One or two nights. In reality, it depends on how long you have in the Brecons and what you want to do.
- How much: A day visit will cost a parking ticket, but an overnight stay for two will come in at around £90 a night.
Nestled at the base of Sugar Loaf mountain on the northern banks of the River Usk is the adorable town of Crickhowell.
Generally speaking, Crickhowell is known for one of two things. Firstly, a great base to launch your assault on Sugar Loaf and other rolling hills in the area. Secondly, Crickhowell Castle, a small ruin in the centre of town, first built around 1120AD.
However, there is more to Crickhowell.
The central high street and market place is alive with tourists and locals. Pubs, bars and shops combine to create a fantastic atmosphere that an old Welsh village should have, not to mention the overarching smell of fish and chips. Frankly, it's heavenly.
The stunning arched bridge that crosses the flowing Usk is a sight to behold and a good starting point for several walks in the area. Then there are the exquisite cottages that make up the town - they're typically 'old Welsh' styled, which means stunning, colourful and often beautifully covered in gorgeous flowers.
The village is staggering, and you should, in my opinion, stay here during your visit to the Brecon Beacons.
Furthermore, if you are a fan of ruins and old castles, you may be interested in the nearby Tretower Court and Castle. Although, it is a little overpriced for what you get.
Hide From The Swans At Llangorse Lake
- Why: A walk around a stunning lake followed by a cheeky pint. Do I need to go on?
- Where: East of Brecon. (map)
- How long: Give yourself an hour and a half to take it all in, faster if the swans chase you.
- How much: It's free 😉
A short twenty-minute drive north of Crickhowell is the energetic Llangorse lake.
The lake is shrouded in myth and legend. You've heard of the Loch Ness Monster in Scotland. Well, now it's time for the Llangorse Afanc. A mythical creature that looks like demonised crocodile come beaver. Enjoy your swim!
In truth, the lake offers far more than just myth and legend. In addition, there's fishing, watersports, scenery and wildlife to boot - admittedly, not an afanc, but the swans are just as angry.
The walks around the lake bring you into contact with all of the above and more, ending with a nice drink at the Lakeside Bar.
If the weather's on your side, this is the perfect way to enjoy the Welsh countryside.
Where to Eat and Drink When Walking the Brecon Beacons
The only answer as to where to eat and drink whilst walking the Brecon Beacons is an old country pub.
Is it me, or is there something romantic about a long walk in the British countryside ending at an old fashioned public house for a pint and a bite to eat?
Imagine you've got soaked on top of Pen y Fan (other hills are available), and on the way back into town, there it sands. A beacon of light, smell and the sounds of laughter and clinking glasses. You head in, and the warmth dries you as you shake off the brolly and waterproof. The smells of chips, vinegar and fresh pastry fill your dripping nose. The bar staff ask, drinks or food?
You have found one of these traditional British Pubs. They serve the classics such as curry, gammon and egg, roast dinner, fish and chips, pie and mash, and, of course, a hot sticky toffy pudding. You won't be left hungry.
Similarly, there is a drink for everyone. Be it beer, lager, cider, G&T, whisky, rum - you name it, that pub you just walked past will have it.
Get yourself in, lap up the atmosphere and enjoy the whole hearty British pub grub.
Is Walking the Brecon Beacons Safe?
Yes. It's not like a sheep is gonna pick-pocket you. Is it? Although, the swans might.
I joke, but the Brecon Beacons is incredibly safe. Crime is low, there shouldn't be any unforeseen natural disasters, and frankly, there is nothing to worry about with regards to food and drink hygiene.
In fact, the only issues arise if you do something remarkably stupid. Such things include, but are not limited to:
- Trying to stand right on the edge of a slippery cliff.
- Climb the mountains in torrential weather conditions.
- Drive around the hairpin bends at 90mph.
- Try to swim in the really powerful waterfalls at night.
That shit will get you killed!
Provided that you're sensible, and have the appropriate kit and clothing, you'll be safe.
Leave a comment
If like me, you love escaping to the mountains, then the Brecon Beacons are for you.
Whilst this is one of my smaller blogs, I hope I've managed to share with you some of the best the Brecons have to offer.
Granted, I haven't seen it all. But that's where you come in. Tell me what you think I've missed, and I'll head over and check it out. Similarly, if you have taken a couple of ideas from the blog, and enjoyed it, let me know.
It's always good to know what you think.
I'm always on the lookout for more things to do in the Brecons. So, if you're about, hit me up on Insta, and we'll get walking the Brecon Beacons together.
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