Backpacking Ubud, Indonesia - The Ultimate Travel Guide
Last Updated: August 7, 2026
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Experience The Best of Bali's Cultural Capital
When Bali's party towns get too much, head north into the trees and you'll find yourself backpacking Ubud.
Here, you can spend days getting lost amongst lush green jungle, cascading rice terraces, and sprawling markets. Ubud is the spiritual and artistic home of Bali, where you can be at one with nature.
Ubud is peaceful. The markets are still vibrant and noisy, the streets chaotic, but somehow there's a serene atmosphere that you won't find anywhere else in Bali. It's hard to explain, but you'll feel it once you arrive.
The name Ubud comes from the Balinese word for medicine. The plants and shrubs that grow in Ubud are used in medicines around the world to treat many illnesses, including cancer.
Nevertheless, please don't go around eating the vegetation.
As a tour guide living in Bali, Indonesia in 2018, Ubud became my second home. I spent around a quarter of my seven months in Bali here, and I got to know the best hangouts, hotspots and hidden gems from my friends who live in this leafy paradise.
Based on this, I've put together this ultimate guide to backpacking Ubud, crammed full of itineraries, tips and insider knowledge, all to help you get the best from this vibrant jungle city.
What's Ubud Like?
Stepping into Ubud, you'll discover a human world within the jungle. The trees give way to uneven, potholed streets, lined with disappearing pavements and flanked with the sort of buildings that wooden shacks want to be when they grow up. You will have to dance your way around the vibrant decorations, sculpture and art scattering the pavements. The markets are dripping with handmade jewellery, crafts and vivid flowers, and the delicately spiced smell of food stalls hangs in the air.
Ubud is a city of contrasts. The continuous drone of vehicles, animals and the buzzing wires above are a constant companion, yet gently fade into the aroma of massage oils and tranquillity of yoga retreats. You could easily spend ten minutes trying to cross the road here, yet not get frustrated. A sense of calmness prevails.
Maybe it's this calmness that has enticed people the world over. People trying to connect with the spiritual and ethereal gravitate here. Ubud has drawn names as varied as H.G. Wells and Charlie Chaplin over the years, and has been the backdrop of many epiphanies; including that of Elizabeth Gilbert, portrayed by Julia Roberts in Eat, Pray, Love. Incidentally, the healer from the film, Ketut, has sadly passed away, but his son has taken over his mantle at Liyer Spirit House.
Whatever it is, there's no arguing that the city has a unique charm, and backpacking Ubud will be one of the most enriching experiences of your time in Bali.
How To Get To Ubud
If you're coming to Bali, you're either coming via Ngurah Rai Airport, or by boat.
Boats usually arrive from the islands to the east at Padang Bai port, which, unsurprisingly, is on the east coastof Bali, or from Java, via Gilimanuk port to the west.
Any which way, you're going to be getting to Ubud via road.
There's no trains, and the few buses are super slow and go around the houses, so, unless you're skint, don't bother.
Instead, get a private driver.
This is so cheap it's a no-brainer, and everyone on Bali either knows a guy, or is that guy. Ask at your accommodation, restaurant, or, even better, a local mate if they know a local driver. Within half an hour, you'll have a car.
Alternatively, you can try Grab or Gojek, the Ubers of Indonesia.
If you're booked into a hotel, ask them about transfers ahead of time - many will be happy to pick you up!
Beyond that, prices scale dramatically. If you get a local driver, they're far and away the cheapest. After that, it's Grab and Gojek, and finally, official taxis (especially the airport ones!) will fleece you. So use them as a last resort.
If you're seriously looking for a driver around Ubud, shoot us a message on Instagram and I'll give you some contacts.
As for journey times? Well, roads on Bali are notorious for being unpredictable, with traffic madness coming out of nowhere, but here's a ballpark:
Airport - Ubud - 1hr 10
Padang Bai - Ubud - 1hr
Gilimanuk - Ubud - 3hrs 30 minimum
That should have you covered!
Timing your Trip
How long should you spend backpacking Ubud?
Some people will tell you that you can see Ubud in a day.
No. Don't bother trying.
Whilst you could skim the highlights in a day, in reality you need at least three days or you'll miss out on the true essence of Ubud: its ability to make you stop, take a moment, and appreciate.
At this slower pace, you will have time to truly savour the boutique cafes overlooking the rice paddies, relax in the fragrant spas, and experience the beauty of Ubud's natural surroundings.
The best time of year for backpacking Ubud
As with most of Bali, the ideal time is during June, July and August. Whilst this is peak season and there are increased crowds, the weather is more suited to outdoor living and exploring.
Try and avoid monsoon season (November through to March), as most of Ubud's charm is found outdoors, and you just won't experience it at it's best.
Normally, we'd advise avoiding the crowds of peak season, but that's not really what Ubud's about. It's about finding your own peace in a crowd of like-minded people. Head here in peak season and enjoy the buzz.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking Ubud
With the immense number of attractions on offer in Ubud, it unsurprisingly attracts vast numbers of visitors. Each, of course, in need of accommodation.
Ubud encompasses 14 separate villages. However, the highlights of Ubud centre around a large oval road linking the Sacred Monkey Forest to the south, and the Royal Palace to the north. This is the most vibrant area of town, and if you want to be in the action, this is where you should aim for. Luckily for those of us backpacking Ubud on a budget, it's also where you'll find the cheaper accommodation.
Meanwhile, the outskirts of Ubud are laced with a mix of rice terraces, and some of the most beautiful and expensive 5-star hotels you've ever seen, nestled in idyllic surroundings. These are the picture-perfect Bali Instagram photos you've probably spotted before. Think infinity pools, jungle-top views, and roaming wildlife. These posho-paradises are a good distance from the centre, however, your money does pay for a complimentary shuttle bus. Which is nice.
I've stayed in A LOT of different places around the city. Consequently, I've seen the best and worst Ubud has to offer. These are my top picks.
UBUD VIEW BUNGALOW
- What: A small homestay, all with private rooms and terrace.
- Where: In the beating heart, just off the centre. A 10-minute walk from the Sacred Monkey Forest. (Map)
- Why: All-day reception, breakfast delivered to your room, and a gorgeous pool.
- Why Not: The showers don't always throw out hot water. No indoor communal areas.
Firstly, this is the world's first and only three-storey bungalow. Classic Bali.
But don't let that put you off!
This is the ideal backpacker trade-off between budget, comfort and location. It's dead in the centre of the action, and, for a little extra cash over a basic hostel, you get the luxury of having a pool to fall into in the evenings. Plus, crashing into your own four-poster bed feels decadent after a long day.
This is perfect for a couple backpacking Ubud together, or a group of mates needing a base. All the rooms here are two-ers, but if you have a cheeky third joining you, the staff will happily throw another bed your way... if you need it, you dirty dog.
If you're on your own, however, you might find it a bit quiet here when there are cheaper, louder hostels to be found backpacking Ubud. That shouldn't be a problem though, because, let's face it, you'll be out enjoying yourself for most of the day anyway. But if you did need a few days away from it all, this is ideal.
When you are actually here, you'll find friendly staff (they are always smiling), comfortable rooms, and that absolutely banging pool. Spending an afternoon poolside with a cocktail and bowl of fresh fruit in hand would revive a dead donkey.
The reason I kept coming back, though, was the breakfast. Every day, you can get your breakfast delivered to your door, and holy shit, it is amazing. Take me back.
Oh, and a top tip: try and book a room on the ground floor. That way, you don't have to risk life and limb in the wet climbing the stairs. Also, bonus points for being around the back as well, where you don't get the noise from the street.
Nirwa Ubud Homestay
- What: A quiet homestay in a rice field, run by a sweet old couple.
- Where: Amazingly only 10 minutes walk north of the markets, but feels like the middle of nowhere. (Map)
- Why: The views. It's gorgeous.
- Why Not: No pool, tiny communal area. If you like partying, this is not the one.
Heading here, you might just think you've gone the wrong way. The path runs alongside a small river before spilling into a beautiful, open rice paddy, with a few (actual) bungalows on one side, and nothing else. Home sweet home.
The entire place is made up of just a handful of double rooms. This is not a major setup at all. All of the rooms are unusually big, bright and airy, with killer views over the uninterrupted rice fields. This is definitely one for couples, travelling families, or if you're after some true rural tranquillity.
The place is run by a sweet old husband and wife duo, both of whom are incredibly helpful and friendly. They are also (almost suspiciously) well-connected in the city, and will hook you up with whatever you need, be it a driver, guide or fake passports solid local advice. Also, they do an incredible local green pancake for breakfast. Total winner.
Overall, it's very similar to Ubud View Bungalow, just with less pool and more rice. What it does have in spades is that authentic, peaceful Balinese feel, and that's what makes this place so special.
Nuriani Guest House
- What: Traditional Balinese homestay with tons of living space.
- Where: On the south end of the main drag, and under 10 minutes walk to the Sacred Monkey Forest. (Map)
- Why: Cheap as chips, well located, breakfast is included, and the rooms are massive.
- Why Not: No frills - you get your room and some grub, and that's about it.
Budget backpackers rejoice! No longer do you have to stay in a tin can to come in on-price. Here, you get a ton of space - I'm talking a separate lounge and bedroom y'all! It's clean, comfortable and tidy, and whilst you're not going to get the red-carpet treatment, you will feel very welcome.
Now, bear in mind, this is the budget airline of homestays. It ticks all the boxes: it's safe, warm, and you won't catch some rare and new disease from touching the walls. Plus, you'll get brekky in the morning. However, don't expect too much; if you want a pool or modern vibes, you're gonna have to head somewhere else. Then again, backpacking Ubud isn't about the modern lifestyle anyway.
All the rooms are private, and it has the classic, old-fashioned Balinese style you'll become very familiar with whilst exploring the island. It's smack in the middle of things, and you wouldn't be embarrassed to say, "Come back to mine!" after a day out.
So, how much for this private palace? Well, I paid a tenner (or 180,000 IDR) for the night. And that, my friends, is a steal. I suggest you give it a go.
The Joker Hostel
- What: Backpacker hostel with Balinese vibes.
- Where: A bit further out of the way, south of the centre. Still under 10 minutes walk to the Sacred Monkey Forest. (Map)
- Why: It's dirt cheap! There's a younger, more backpack-y vibe, perfect for solo travellers.
- Why Not: No frills, plus it's a fair walk to most of the good shit.
Welcome to the most hostel-y hostel you'll find whilst backpacking Ubud. This is where you'll want to be if you're budget backpacking, or decide to rock up to Ubud without having anywhere booked. The Joker welcomes solo backpackers with open arms.
This place is easily missed, even if you have stayed here in the past. As a guide, get to Taco Casa, find the overhead Joker sign nearby, head down the alley, and aim for the vivid orange reception on the left. Just remember: it's all too easy to cock this up, especially after a beer. That said, you may need one for the road if you plan to walk to the late-night bars - it can, quite literally, be an uphill struggle.
Once you make it, you'll have a choice of a dorm or private rooms. If I'm honest, the room quality is a real mixed bag, so ask to check out a couple, and nab your favourite (or the one without blood on the pillow). Â
There aren't many 'classic' backpacker hostels in Ubud, so the Joker draws solo backpackers like moths to a flame. It has the shared dorm rooms that are so elusive in Bali, and has plenty of common areas to host the piss-ups, late-night chats, games and stupid banter that us backpackers love. Also, heads up; a lot of this is outdoors, so if it's raining, be prepared to play musical chairs for the only dry seat in the house, or get wet.
On the whole, the staff are welcoming, the accommodation clean, and the vibes chilled. In reality, it will never be the best place you've stayed, but Ubud isn't about the accommodation.
Max One
- What: Hotel on the fancier end, without blowing the budget.
- Where: 10 minutes walk south of Ubud's circular centre and the Sacred Monkey Forest. (Map)
- Why: The comfiest place I've stayed in Bali, rooftop infinity pool, and a breakfast fit for royalty.
- Why Not: Pricier than other options, and a good hike to the bars and markets.
First off, if this was London, you'd easily be paying triple digits. This feels like pure luxury - yet it doesn't empty your bank account the way some of the five-star resorts here can. If you're a tired and weary backpacker wanting to step away from the noise and the madness and fall into a soft, fluffy cloud of comfort; Max One is the one.
The whole place is designed for your comfort. Everything is airy, clean and modern. The showers are more like a monsoon, and less like standing in front of a spitting goat. Then there are the rooms. You'll find are gloriously large and well-decorated, and all the mod-cons actually work. It's all very... un-Balinese.
If you can ever bear to leave the room, the rooftop infinity pool is amazing. Wooden decking, sun-loungers and lush greenery create an oasis for you to bask in the sun and enjoy a few cocktails. The soundtrack of gentle music, running water and conversation subtly drown out any impression you're in a city at all. Plus, the views are amazing. Treetops everywhere. On a good day, you can see the south coast of Bali.
When you get hungry, the rooftop restaurant is where to aim. They do a great buffet, or you can order off the menu. The staff can't do enough to help you out, and are super upbeat and cheerful. Moreover, the whole place is laid out intelligently, and everything is where you'd expect it - and if you've stayed in those weird places where the hair dryer was in the fridge, you know you can't take that for granted.
Yes, it's expensive for Bali, and there are cheaper places to stay when backpacking Ubud. But in the west, you'd be paying 6 times the price for this sort of place. For the amount you get, it's cheap, no matter where you are in the world. Max One makes you feel richer than you are. If you can budget it - you'd stay here.
Oh, and the beds are incredible. I wanted to carry it home with me.
Further Accommodation
None of these quite what you're looking for? No worries, read up on our guide to finding the best accommodation, and then check out the holy trinity below, and see what's out there for you.
Also, Ubud is THE spot in Bali to go all-out on five-star luxury resorts. You know those beautiful Instagram photos of leafy jungle, elephant sanctuaries, and infinity pools into pristine nothingness? Well, they're in Ubud.
However, they're not for those of us backpacking Ubud on a budget, including me. Therefore I can't advise which one is best. I can only advise on the ones where the security was bad enough that I managed to sneak in and enjoy the grounds for a bit. Shoutout to Bucu View Resort!
Things to do when Backpacking Ubud
Despite being made up of 14 villages, most of the good stuff to do when you're backpacking Ubud is pretty central.
This is good news for you! It means less walking and more doing. There are a few bits further out where you'll need to jump into a taxi, but we've grouped stuff in our day-by-day itineraries logically to keep your day flowing nicely.
Ubud runs on the usual Balinese timing, which means that opening hours are more suggestions than rules. Some places will open later than they said, or shut earlier. If you're lucky, they'll open early... but that's more unlikely! It's all part of Bali's charm.
Anyway, let's get going! There's a lot to cover. Here's the full list:
- Explore the Sacred Monkey Forest
- Wander Tegalalang Rice Terraces
- Learn your future at Liyer Spirit House
- Try a Yoga Class
- Tour the Waterfalls
- Shop for Arts and Crafts
- Hike Mount Batur at sunrise
- Dive into Ubud Markets
- Learn Authentic Balinese Cooking at Jeding Cookery SchoolÂ
- Relax with a Massage or Flower Bath
- Walk the Campuhan Ridge at Sunrise
- View Ubud Palace
- Smell the Markets
- Relax in a Cafe with a View
- Explore Taman Ayun Temple
- Honourable Mention: Swing on the Bali Swing
That's a lot, right?
Well, the good news is this!
I spent seven months in Bali running tours, and we always stopped in Ubud. I know this city well. So I've put together this itinerary to take you around all the highlights in the best order. And this is my personal itinerary - no Google magic was used in the making of this list. This is all from experience. Feel free to steal it for your adventures backpacking Ubud.
Backpacking Ubud: Day One
On today's itinerary:
- Explore the Sacred Monkey Forest
- Wander Tegalalang Rice Terraces
- Lunch: Grab a bite at Tegalalang
- Learn your future at Liyer Spirit House
- Try a Yoga Class
- Dinner: Dine at Pundi Pundi and an early night
Today is a great intro into Ubud life, sampling both the natural and spiritual worlds that define the city. We'll be keeping things pretty central - our only drive today will be a short jaunt out to Tegalalang Rice Terraces around mid-morning. We'll also be wrapping up early, to allow for a veeeery early start tomorrow.
One: Explore the Sacred Monkey Forest
- Why:Â To see all the monkeys!
- Where:Â The forest marks the south end of the main strip (map)
- How long: 1 to 1 1/2 hours
- How much: 80,000 IDR (roughly £4)
It's all in the name, I guess. It's a forest. With monkeys. That's sacred.
Starting our day here, make your way along the boardwalks running under the canopy, and you'll find 30 acres of beautifully maintained plants, trees and shrubs. In fact, there's nearly 190 species here. It also hides three beautiful Hindu temples and sacred ponds, each with their own story and place in history.
Oh, and there are nearly 800 hungry monkeys running loose.Â
You can feed the monkeys, and they'll happily jump all over you. Whilst this is happening, you'll notice there are many guards wandering around, and may wonder what they're protecting. Well, they're protecting you. The monkeys can look after themselves. I've seen a few people get attacked, and, quite frankly, they deserved it.
Follow Greg's Golden Rules, and you'll be fine.
The Rules
- Don't stare at the monkeys
- Do not reach out, touch or pet them
- Don't tease or chase them
- Do not show your teeth
- If a monkey comes towards you, don't scream, shout, or dance around - just be calm.
- Do not take food or drink in
- Take off all jewellery, sunglasses and other loose stuff, or it'll get nicked
I've taken hundreds of people through here, and not one was attacked, because they followed these rules. Oh, and the guards are properly good at what they do - the monkeys know who's boss. So call one over if you're worried.
The forest is a beautiful place to be, and the monkeys are great! They just need to be respected.
Two: Wander Tegalalang Rice Terraces
- Why: Look at that photo and tell me you don't want to see it?
- Where: Half an hour drive north of the Monkey Forest. (map)
- How long: 2 hours once there.
- How much: 40,000 IDR (under £2) to get in, and budget some extra for accessing certain areas.
There are many options when it comes to visiting rice terraces. However, the one I know and love best is Tegalalang. It is probably the most famous, and by far the busiest. This is because it's the most beautiful!
To get here, you can: hire bikes in Ubud centre and pay 10K IDR (£0.50) to park them up; book on a guided tour and they'll sort it; or book your own driver - which can be easily done by speaking to your accommodation.
Wandering through these grand terraces, you'll notice two things:
- How damn big it all is, and
- How much more there is going on than just rice.
The place goes on for miles, and it's obvious to see that locals are cashing in on the popularity. The main road is flanked with small market stalls, selling everything from rugs to pottery, as well as ice cream, coconuts and tea tasting flights. It's now a whole event, not just a look at some rice. Yet, it's still beautiful. It's one of the few places that looks the same in real life as it does in pictures.Â
The latest craze across Bali is to add wooden swings over picturesque views, and it doesn't get much prettier than this. There are plenty to choose from, so pick your views and work your haggling magic. We've taught you this, so you should get a solid deal - get it under 70K IDR (around £3.50) and I'll be impressed.
The terraces are a working plantation, and it's all privately owned. In fact, each terrace is usually owned by a different farmer. What this means is you don't have an automatic right to be there, and whilst most of the men and women working are happy to let you take photos with them, and often let you hold their traditional farming tools, they will expect a small donation for the privilege.
As you're meandering deeper into the terraces, there are a few gate points where you'll have to make a small donation to pass through - 20K IDR (that's about a quid) is plenty, and if they try it on past that, keep haggling.
Lunch: Grab a bite at Tegalalang
There are a ton of cafes and restaurants overlooking the terraces, check the menu and take your pick.
Three: Learn Your Future at Liyer Spirit House
- Why: Because you can always be more zen.
- Where:Â 20 minutes walk southeast of the Monkey forest and the main drag. (map)
- How long:Â A palm-reading session will be around 15 minutes, but there may be queues. You can book.
- How much: Can you put a price on enlightenment? Yes; its 300K IDR (around £15) for a fortune-telling.
Heading back into Ubud now, we're getting all spiritual up in here, and spending some time with the holistic healers at Liyer Spirit House.
This place was made famous by the book (and subsequent film) Eat, Pray, Love. Sadly, the healer in that tale, Ketut, passed away in 2016, but his teachings and tradition are continued through his son Nyoman. You'll find holistic therapies, wellbeing treatments, and, in particular, fortune-telling.
I'll be honest, this one isn't for me at all.
However, I ended up going with a few mates who had seen the film and wanted to experience it - they were totally on board and said it was amazing. I went into it feeling sceptical, and left feeling the same way. You'll know if this is the sort of thing you want to try.
I will say, the little house is a wonderfully peaceful environment, and it's lovely that the family still call it home today. In essence; I can see the appeal.
Four: Try a Yoga Class
- Why:Â Restoring your mind, body and soul.
- Where: Just south of the centre, 5 minutes walk from the Monkey Forest. (map)
- How long: Depends on the class - usually 90 minutes.
- How much: 130k/class (around £6.50), cheaper if you do multiple.
Continuing our theme of serenity and wellbeing, we're wrapping up the day with a yoga class!
Ubud is famous for its yoga. It's part of the spiritual essence here, and it attracts not only scores of yogis, but also the best teachers. You'll find dozens of yoga studios, but the most famous is undoubtedly the Yoga Barn.
Once you clap eyes on this elegant wooden building, you'll see why it's so popular. It's stunning. Sitting in peaceful, leafy grounds, there's an immediate sense of calm. Head up to the main studio, and its a beautifully understated affair, with Hindu statues and views over the great outdoors.
Classes run all day and cover multiple disciplines (Hatha, Vinyasa, Nidra, and more). The schedule is very flexible, the yoga enlightening, and the teachers will bend over backwards to help you (Okay, I'll stop now...). One thing to note is you can't book - it's first come, first served.
I'm not even going to attempt to tell you how bad I am at yoga. I first tried it in Australia, and the levels of embarrassment were a new low for me. These days, I leave the yoga to Charlie, but the Yoga Barn is the best place I've seen to practice.
Also, if yoga is the reason you're backpacking Ubud, then good news! The Yoga Barn also offers accommodation. You'll never have to leave!
Dinner: Dine at Pundi Pundi and an early night
After building up a sweat on your first day backpacking Ubud, and undoubtedly an appetite, pop over the road to the enticing Pundi Pundi for a delicious Asian meal.
That should wrap up the day nicely. Time to head to bed, and sleep well, it's a naughty 2am pick up for a sunrise walk at Mount Batur tomorrow.
Backpacking Ubud: Day Two
On today's itinerary:
- Hike Mount Batur at Sunrise
- Dive into Ubud Markets
- Lunch: Savour the flavour at Gedong Sisi Warung
- Learn Authentic Balinese Cooking at Jeding Cookery SchoolÂ
- Relax with a Massage or Flower Bath
Hope you slept well! Today is a busy one, with an early start and a quick pace until the evening, where we'll let you wind down with a massage. Until then, though, you're gonna be on the pace all the way.
One: Hike Mount Batur at Sunrise
- Why: There is no better sunrise on Bali - plus it's an achievement.
- Where: Pick up from your accommodation, takes place on Mount Batur, Kintamani. (map)
- How long: 8 hours door to door - start at 2am, but expect to be on the volcano for just over 4 hours.
- How much: 350,000+ IDR (around £17.50) per person (with haggling), depending on numbers.
Mooooorning! Try not to wake anyone else up on your way out!
You'll be picked up from your accommodation and taken to a meeting point at a nearby hostel, where you can meet all the other intrepid climbers and early morning enthusiasts. Or not.
Here, you'll be given a basic breakfast and a hot drink. Once everyone is there, it's all into the bus and off to Mt. Batur.
Once off the bus, you'll be given a handheld torch, although if you have a headtorch use that instead, and some food. Don't get too excited by the food, it's a bit of bread, a boiled egg, and a banana. Just make sure it's gone by the time you get to the top or the monkeys will nick it, sometimes with the use of force.
It's robbery.
Whilst you are also provided with water, you should really bring your own extra supplies.
The Climb
It'll be dark when you start, so stay alert. There are tricky parts where you will have to pull yourself up using your hands, or maybe have to jump. If you are carrying an injury, you may want to reconsider. Similarly, if this is not something you think you can do, take the lie-in instead.
You might hear tales of people climbing the volcano in flip-flops. Don't. The walk is difficult, and you will need appropriate footwear.Â
Speed is not an issue, and there is no great rush to the top. There are plenty of people here and you can't overtake, so you will not be able to smash it out. Don't rush, enjoy it. There are a few passing places, but you'll only get stuck behind the next group anyway.
The Top
You'll know when you've arrived at the top, because there'll be a couple of stalls selling snacks and drinks. This, however, brings with it the hungry and thirsty monkeys. The 180-degree views across the lake are beautiful, but it will be a little crowded.
You can stop here (and many do) and be rewarded, but if you have climbed well and have time on your side, I suggest you dig deep, and push on for another 25 minutes to get yourself to...
The Top-Top
This is the good shit right here. Vast, uninterrupted views await you.
From here, you sit above everything. You have staggering views of Mount Agung and beyond. As a result, it's the perfect place to watch the sunrise. Furthermore, they give you a cracking hot chocolate for your efforts. It's one of the best I've had.
If you haven't eaten your banana by now, the monkeys will have had it off you.
A word of warning...
If luck is on your side, you will have the moment of the trip. However, despite all of the great things I have to say about the climb, it can all be ruined with one word: clouds.
If the weather goes against you, it can suck. You've got up early, you've climbed a volcano, and you can't see your hand in front of your face. That, I'm afraid, is the chance you take.
If you are in that situation, don't get too disheartened. I've been up here when all seemed lost and I could barely see my nose, let alone my hand, when, quicker than you can say, 'Bastard clouds!', they've gone!
Which, in turn, reveals everything you dreamed the tour to be. It's not a guarantee, but it is SO changeable up here, you might get lucky.
There's a few companies that offer this, but I recommend Puji Sunrise Trekking, run by my mate Komang. To book, just WhatsApp or call +6281338720270, and they'll look after you.
Two: Dive into Ubud Markets
- Why: Get them souvenirs! It's super cheap.
- Where: In the centre of town, opposite Ubud Palace. (map)
- How long: 1 to 2 hours.
- How much: How good are your haggling skills?
There are several markets in Ubud, but we're making a beeline for the biggest and best: Ubud Traditional Market.
This market, like most in Indonesia, is noisy, vivid, beautiful chaos. However, it's unusual in that it starts its day as food market, and at around 10am it morphs into basically a huge craft fair. Each provide a very different experience.
The food markets in the morning are where the locals buy ingredients for the day's meals, and bits for their daily offerings to the gods. You'll find meat, fresh fruit and veg, herbs and spices, tofu, fish and tempeh, which is a traditional Indonesian food made from soybeans. There's everything. The smells are intense, so it may be worth bringing something else to put under your nose. It reeks.
Today, though, we'll be arriving once it's evolved into an arts and crafts market again. There will be hangovers of the earlier food, but, for the most part, the food is taken away and replaced with a vibrant mix of clothing, ornaments, bags, flowers, woven... everything, sunglasses, shoes, weapons, statues, and everything else you'd need to decorate an ashram.
If you cannot find a souvenir here, you will not find one anywhere.
Remember: locals see you as a walking banknote, and prices become inflated threefold. Haggling is part of Balinese culture, and the locals are experts at it! So bring your A-game, and enjoy it. As long as you're smiling, you're not insulting anyone.Â
The market tends to shut around 6pm, so give yourself plenty of time.
Lunch: Savour the flavour at Gedong Sisi Warung
Keeping with the traditional vibes of the market, we'll stroll over the road for a truly authentic Balinese lunch at Gedong Sisi Warung. The calming aura will be a winner after a busy morning, and the flavoursome, beautiful dishes are just the shot in the arm you need.
After your food, take some time out. You'll want it after all that. Relax around the pool and have a nana-nap until your 2pm pickup.
Three: Learn Authentic Balinese Cooking at Jeding Cookery School
- Why: Stupid question - Balinese food is amazing! Plus you can show off your new skills back home.
- Where: Jeding Cooking School in Laplapan, Ubud. (map)
- How long: Pick up at your hostel between 2pm and 2:30pm, and dropped back around 7:45pm.
- How much: 350,000 IDR (£18.50).
This afternoon, you'll be picked up by mate Nyoman and taken to his traditional Balinese family home to learn how to cook Bali-style.
What I love about Nyoman's school in particular, is it's about more than just the food. He and his family will talk you through the traditional Balinese way of life and share their culture with you. That's why you start not with cooking, but making a canang sari - a traditional prayer offering.
Once that is done and you've learned about the (very organised) layout of a Balinese family home, you'll get down to the cooking, with ingredients bought fresh from the market that morning. Oh, and if you have any dietary requirements, just let them know and they'll be happy to adapt things for you.
Then you cook.
I won't spoil things too much, but you'll be shown how to make several dishes for your main course, and Ubud's famous green pancakes for dessert, before tucking in. It's a delicious, insightful afternoon. Don't worry too much about remembering every step, because they'll also give you a recipe book at the end.
My top tip: There's a big fridge here full of Coke (that's Coca Cola...) and Bintang, which they'll sell to you way cheaper than you'll find in Ubud - grab a few for the road whilst you're here.
Four: Realax with a Massage or Flower Bath
- Why: Because you've just had a beast of a day, and deserve it.
- Where: Across Ubud - for the flower baths, aim for Karsa Spa. (map)
- How long: 1-2 hours, depending on treatments.
- How much: Depends on the treatment - ballpark is 1-hour full-body massage for 100-150K IDR (£5-7ish).
This is your reward for making it this far today. I'll keep this short, because you all know what a massage is already.
Bali is a world leader in the cheap massage field. For the equivalent of a fiver back home, you can spend an hour being gently kneaded and squeezed until you cry from relaxation, and there are dozens of spas across Ubud that do this. My favourite has now shut down - presumably because I'm not going daily anymore - but you'll find them by the bucketload. I love them.
If you want to go a step above this, you can head to the Insta-famous flower baths of Karsa Spa - just make sure you book. Here, you can spend an hour floating in blissful peace, surrounded by delicate purple petals and ambient music. You won't even hear the sound of influencers ordering their Insta-boyfriends around next door.
No photos for this one - no-one wants to see me in a bath.
Backpacking Ubud: Day Three
One: Walk the Campuhan Ridge at Sunrise
- Why: If you're going to go for a walk, go somewhere pretty!
- Where: Five-minute walk northwest of the markets. (map)
- How long: Around 2km each way, but can be extended or shortened. Expect around an hour.
- How much:Â Free! Unless you've taken a tour (which you don't need).
There's nothing too fancy about this one, it's just a green, leafy walk along a ridgeline, letting you get away from the bustle of the town for a bit.
The path will take you over treetops and rice fields, and past temples and an old, weary village. It's peaceful, tranquil, and just a nice place to be.
The path starts a short walk from the markets, near the Warwick Ibah Villas and Spa. From there, it takes a lazy 2km long route, and finishes just next to the Karsa Spa, if you want to treat yourself.
It's an easy walk, and short enough that you don't need to worry about return transport. Just make sure you're wearing sensible shoes for walking and you'll have no troubles at all.
Also, I'd recommend that you head out early enough to catch the sunrise over the ridge. There's a simple beauty to watching the treetops light up in the morning sun.
Two: View Ubud Palace
- Why: You're nearby, and it's a palace.
- Where: Opposite Ubud Markets (map)
- How long: Five minutes for a peer through the gates.
- How much:Â Free!
I won't slow you up too much here. This is one of the many palaces throughout Bali, and is worth stopping for a look at! If only because you'll be walking past it.
It looks a lot like a temple, with ornate gates and sculptures leading the way in. The royal family do occasionally stay here, but, for the most-part, they live opposite Taman Ayun temple to the west, which we're heading to later today!
A lot of the palace was destroyed in the 1917 earthquake and was rebuilt, so it's not exactly ancient. But it is pretty!
It's an interesting place to stop at, have a look through the gates, enjoy the architecture, and then move on. It won't set your world on fire, but if you're nearby, why not?
Three: Smell the Markets
We already stopped off here yesterday, but this time we're aiming to take a look whilst it's still a food market. This means arriving ideally before 9am, which should be easy if you did the ridge walk at sunrise.
You'll know you got the timings right if you can smell it as you walk in. It's pungent, loud, and colourful. The noise and shouting is intense, and the narrow pathways pack the atmosphere in tight.
Have a wander and see the foods, offerings, and flowers available. Also, keep your eyes peeled, because there's every chance some guy will come marching down the tight walkways with, say, a table balanced on his head, and you'll need to dodge, duck, dip, dive or... dodge!
This is also your chance to pick up some hot local brekky to get your day underway - likely rice mixed with something or other. Enjoy!
Four: Relax in a Cafe with a View
- Why: Taking time out to revive your weary senses is important!
- Where: Many places - I recommend Atman Nourish Kafe.
- How long: Take an hour to kick back.
- How much: Depends on your tastes.
Whilst backpacking Ubud is a chilled, fun experience, there's still a lot of hustle, bustle, and noise. This can get a bit wearing, so occasionally a few moments of escape are required.
The perfect way to do this is in a quiet spot, looking over Ubud's rice fields with a slice of cake and the smell of Indonesian cooking in the air. Enter: Atman's Kafe.
Obviously, it doesn't have to be Atman's, but it's perfectly located for where we're at today, near the market but still just far away enough to provide some tranquillity.
Take some time to replenish your senses - you've had two early starts, after all!
Five: Explore Taman Ayun Temple
- Why: It's one of the best-maintained temples on the island.
- Where: A drive southwest of Ubud. (map)
- How long:Â Budget around 2 1/2 hours door-to-door.
- How much: 30,000 IDR to get in (or around £1.50).
Taman Ayun translates into English as 'beautiful gardens', and nobody can deny it is exactly that.
This is our final stop for today. You've had a few busy ones by this point, and this is a serene way to wrap up.
The temple is a few miles southwest of Ubud, so grab some transport over. Bali's roads are notoriously unpredictable, but this should take around 30 minutes.
Arrive, cross over the little bridge into the grounds, and get exploring! Ignore the old cockfighting ring to the right (not very spiritual, I know), and instead make your way into the immaculate gardens.
Everything is pruned and polished to an inch of its life. In fact, it would seem over the top if everything wasn't so well placed. It's all there for a reason.
The main temple is obvious, with its tiered roofs stacked into the sky. You can't enter the main complex, but the grounds are yours to explore.
You can take some time to learn about Balinese religion, in particular Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice, and Barong, the King of the Spirits (He's the Chinese-dragon-looking one) at their statues.
There's also a market around the corner to explore whilst you're here, stuffed with all the Balinese trinkets you've come to expect at this point! It's smack in the middle of the road; you can't miss it.
Backpacking Ubud: Best Of The Rest
That's it for the day-by-day itinerary, but there is more to see if you're sticking around!
I should say that these aren't here because they're, well. crap, they just don't line up with the rest of our schedule. If you're backpacking Ubud for four or more days, check these out!
Here is also the place to mention some of Bali's more remote temples: Pura Besakih (The Mother Temple), and Pura Lempuyang.
Both of these are over an hour outside of Ubud, but Ubud is still the nearest big town to access them from. They're both very much worth visiting, but are too far away to justify a proper write-up here. If you have the time, check them out.
One: Tour the Waterfalls
- Why:Â Because splashing about under a waterfall is fun!
- Where:Â Mostly to the south and east of Ubud - we'll tell you where in a sec.
- How long:Â This can be a whole day tour if you want, or you can pick one or two. Up to you!
- How much:Â Budget a few quid for each one.
This could be day four backpacking Ubud on its own.
But then again, not everyone has four days to spend, or an entire day to piss around getting wet. Plus, if water isn't your thing, this one would really suck for you, so we've kept it small. You're welcome.
You could smash all of these out in a row and have a great old time, or just pick your fave. Do what works for your schedule.
These are three of my favourites, but Ubud has tons to choose from!
Tukad Cepung
The most northern of the three would be as good a start as any!
This one is tucked away in a cave, and honestly is a bit of a bitch to get to, but you reap the rewards for your efforts.
Park up, head down past the rice fields, and follow the river. This leads to some stone steps into a gorge. Climb down and wade through the river until you find the room-sized boulder, which you need to climb over. Drop down the other size, and into the cave. You've made it!
Throw yourself under the powerful falls, swim in the pools, and get some epic photos in the shaft of light shining from above. (Hopefully with a camera that focuses properly... sorry about that!)
Exit as per entry, and try not to trip, as we've got all your falls covered today already!
Not even sorry for that one.
Tibumana
This might sound like deja vu, but park up and head past the rice fields. You'll follow a meandering path past shrubs, a small waterfall, and over rickety bridges held together with string and prayers. Keep going until you find a big ol' hole in the ground, and take the stairs down.
You'll be greeted by a small pool, with a dead-straight waterfall cascading in. It's pleasingly simple and elegant. I've seen a ton of waterfalls, and finding one that is just a single pillar of water is just... nice. It's different.
There's no airs and graces, it's not special, it's just different. And, in its own way, that is special.
Tegenungan
This one is the big, touristy one.
Park up, pay your ticket money (around 15,000 IDR, or just under a quid), and you walk through a road lined with stalls and cafes. This ends at a viewing platform overlooking the valley and the crashing fall itself.
There's a bunch of stops on the way down to take photos, but then a tricky climb down to the base of the falls. If you think it's bad going down, wait until you head back up!
Once you make that, you'll find a water temple and sacred pool you can cleanse yourself in, and drink from. Just know that it's absolutely fucking baltic cold, so if you jump straight in, your outie might just become an innie.
You can now make your final approach to the falls, and, along the way, there's a ton of props to take your photos with. It's mega-touristy but pretty cool.
Most of the year, you can swim in the water, but not directly under the falls - it's just too powerful. There's a rope in the water marking the limit you can swim up to, and even getting to that makes you feel like Michael Phelps.
Otherwise, you can climb to different sections of the cliffs, but there's not much point. All the good stuff is at the bottom.
Two: (Dis)honourable Mention: Swing on the Bali Swing
- Why: Because you need that Insta photo, and you have too much money.
- Where:Â Half-hour drive west of Ubud's centre. (map)
- How long:Â Half-hour there and back, lunch and some time on the swings? Half a day.
- How much: 500,000 IDR (around £25), plus transport is extra.
This is an 'honourable mention' because we haven't actually done this. But, because it's a super-popular spot, a backpacking Ubud blog wouldn't be complete without it.
It's dishonourable because who pays £25 to go on a fucking swing?
Honestly, it's just as well lunch is included, but, then again, a good lunch in Ubud is like 80,000 IDR (£4) anyway. So that's still a shitload considering the swing at Wanagiri Hidden Hills, near Bedugul, comes in at under half the price. In addition, there are tons of other swings across the island, none of which will charge you three days of your Bali backpacking budget.
This is aimed squarely at 'influencers', by their own admission, and priced accordingly. Want your photo taken? That's £8.50. Want to hire a floaty dress so you can look the part? £7.50 to £20 extra, depending on how stupid rich fancy you're feeling. Also, for an extra £3 per person, they're also good enough to pick you up and drop you off.
Really, fair play to these guys, they must be making a killing. It is a beautiful location, and you will get some nice shots, it's just stupid prices. Your call.
Three: Shop for Arts and Crafts
- Why:Â It's what Ubud is famous for.
- Where:Â All over the shop. In every sense.
- How long:Â How long do you want to spend?
- How much:Â It's free to look, at least!
Ubud is famous for its arts and crafts, and the pavements are lined with art, jewellery, statues, paintings, weather vanes, dreamcatchers... you get it. If it can be made of stone, wood or cloth, you'll find it in Ubud, usually overflowing onto the street.
You don't need to aim anywhere special for this, it's all over the place. If you're after a souvenir for the Shit Shelf, Ubud's the place!
A lot of shops and stalls don't have prices marked up, so it's time to crack out your haggling skills. Follow the haggling rules, and you'll find a few bargains here.
Need Even More?!
Honestly, this list should keep you busy for a long while! That said, if you're more living in than backpacking Ubud, you'll eventually wear through this list. If you do, you can check out some extra inspiration from our friends at Inwanderment!
Where to Eat When Backpacking Ubud
Ubud is a foodie's heaven. It's mostly cafes and restaurants here, serving foods from both Bali and the world over, and it's pretty much all banging! Street food is available in the markets.
Most of the restaurants and cafes are traditional Balinese buildings; made of stone and wood, and packed with greenery. There's so many that the smell of fresh-cooked foods pours over the town. You want to dive into them all!
The speciality of Ubud is green pancakes. Ubud isn't generally big on desserts, but these are pretty special. The best I had were the ones we made at Jeding Cooking School.
Otherwise, Indonesia generally means a lot of rice. AÂ lot. Specialities include Nasi Goreng, which is rice and chicken; Mie Goreng, noodles and chicken; and Nasi Campur, which is a smorgasbord of chicken, tofu, tempeh and other meats, with a big dollop of rice (with a hat on) in the middle.
Finally, a word on the famous 'Bali Belly'. If you're here for more than a week, you're realistically going to get it. In truth, it's more hassle to try and avoid it, so just accept it'll happen and throw yourself into the backpacking Ubud experience. It's grim, but it passes. Literally. Plus, this way, you get to try all the best food!
The laughing Buddha
- What:Â A perfect mix of traditional and western foods, quality service, and top entertainment.
- Where: Dead centre of the main circular, 10 minutes north of the Monkey Forest. (map)
- How much: About 120K IDR (£6) for a main. (menu)
I don't know how many times I've been to the Laughing Buddha, but it's not enough.Â
You can smell this place before you see it, and, stepping inside, it's everything a Balinese restaurant should be. Small, wooden tables downstairs, beanbags on the balcony upstairs, a big bar at the back, and a stage at the front. The food is amazing, the service top-notch, and some of the bands in the evening are truly world-class (I'll talk about that later).
Their local foods are great, but honestly, I was demolishing food from every corner of the planet. Starters had to be the spring rolls. Mains? I loved the Moroccan lamb kebabs, the lasagna, and the quesadillas. Sometimes all at once. Desserts were almost impossible to choose, but the choccie molten cake won me over more times than not.
The staff are like magicians, appearing just when you need them, and always went above and beyond for me (but that could be because I was there every week).
Also, shout out to their happy hour. It's raining deals on cocktails between 4 and 7pm, but has a second wind between 11 and 1, right when the atmosphere is peaking. Winner! Also, these drinks are bloody excellent! If you want to go for a traditional tipple, try the Arak. It's very strong, and too much could probably make you go blind. Cocktail-wise, you can't go wrong with a couple (or six...) of the flavoursome mojitos.
I'll bang on about this place again further down, but the Laughing Buddha was like home to me. If I could eat there tonight, I'd be there 'til close. The Laughing Buddha is a worthy pilgrimage for anyone backpacking Ubud.
Also, try and be near to the window; it's hot in here. You'll appreciate the breeze.
Warung Pulau Kelapa
- What: Authentic Balinese settings and food, done properly.
- Where: North-west of the markets - probably don't walk it if you're eating. (map)
- How much: We're talking a few quid for a proper authentic taste of Bali. (menu)
Welcome to a quintessential corner of Balinese paradise. Traditional clean, tidy, and beautiful settings, with the food to match.
I never sat inside here; the gardens are too nice! It's just far away enough from Ubud centre to feel remote, but not in the middle of nowhere. It's actually not far from Karsa Spa, if you're over that way.
There's not too much to say here, really. it's cheap, pretty and does great-tasting local dishes. The mie goreng stands out for me, but everything I tried was delicious.
It's a little far out to walk to, particularly if you're eating here, but worth the short five-to-ten-minute drive.
Gedong Sisi Warung
- What: A grand hut serving great local food, in the middle of the action.
- Where: Next to Ubud Palace. (map)
- How much: 50K IDR (£2.50) for a mie goreng main.
This is a total winner if you're at the north end of Ubud's main circular.
Smack next to the palace, this looks like a hut, but on a huge scale. It's completely open-walled, making for a nice, airy atmosphere inside. It's very peaceful here, with rickety ceiling fans spinning lazily overhead, and a couple of tiki-style torches burning away.
The food is traditional Balinese fare, very well made and presented, and affordable. If you're on a budget, this is a cheap stop-off that doesn't give you a cheap experience. Tucking into a stacked plate of flavoursome food and knocking back a Bintang or two will still leave you change from a fiver.
That's lunch sorted!
No Mas
- What: Hard to describe. Grungy rock bar meets outdoor pool cinema that serves food. Shouldn't work but it really does!
- Where: On the main drag, just over 5 minutes walk from the Monkey Forest. (map)
- How much: Pretty varied - between 50K to 120K IDR (£2.50-£6). (menu)
Let me take you on a journey...
From the outside, this is a normal-looking, if slightly run-down, two-storey shack. Only it's lit by a shitload of neon signs, including one that blares 'NO MAS' in three-foot letters.
Head left into the tunnel of flowers and lights. Halfway down this hippie tunnel, you'll find an old, European-style cathedral door in the wall.
You have a decision to make.
If you take the cathedral door, the lights will fade and you'll find yourself in a narrow, dark staircase, with bass shaking the floor under your feet. The stairs spit you out in a small, dark, grungy bar, that's about 80% speakers throwing out music ranging from rock to harder rock. There's a stage crammed in one corner, which is a hint of what's to come later in the evening. Weirdly, there's a few tables in here, and you can settle in for the most deafening meal of your life.
If you continue down the Fleetwood Mac tunnel, you'll end up instead on a wide veranda, with spaced-out tables overlooking a softly-lit pool, and wait staff floating between them. It's a vision of gentle sophistication, apart from the gigantic cinema screen behind the pool, playing old-timey films to the audience.
I swear to god all this is true. And they're the same restaurant, serving the same food.
And what food it is! They do local and world foods, and the beef rendang and the 'Seriously Good Fried Rice' are standouts. If I was going back right now, though, I'd be making a beeline for the Royal Rockwell burger, a masterpiece of beef and bacon.
After all, you can't eat Indonesian all day, every day, can you?
No Mas is my second-favourite spot to eat while backpacking Ubud, because apparently it's bad form to eat at Laughing Buddha every day. This by no means is suggesting No Mas is a second thought when it comes to food in Ubud, though. Pick your vibe, and go for it. The rock bar is a bit too loud for me for meals, but makes a great night later on.
You've got to try it here.
Atman Nourish Kafe
- What: Lunchtime Balinese Cafe serving vegan-y, vegetarian-y, gluten-free...y, and pretty much everything-free snacks. Yet somehow still bloody lovely.
- Where: In the heart of Ubud, on the eastern road of the main circular. (map)
- How much: Not the cheapest, but won't bankrupt you either. **Feb 2023 prices** 45K IDR (£2.44) for a cake.
Normally, this is the sort of hipster-y, pretentious, cliche kinda place I'd love to tear apart.
But I can't. Because I like it.
In fact, I'd go as far as to say it's my guilty pleasure when backpacking Ubud.
Ultimately, it still has the guitar-carrying, yoga-mat-wielding wankers, but somehow they don't annoy me here. I don't know if it's the views, or the spinach shakes doing their thing, but I'd happily spend an hour of my afternoon here every day, eating a slice of their fantastic vegan spiced apple strudel pie, and looking over the rice fields out back.
It's a relaxing, nice place to be, and also a great spot to bring a date.
Pundi Pundi (ICIP ICIP)
- What: South-east Asian restaurant open to the elements, with magnificent trees growing wild throughout.
- Where: 3-4 minute walk east of the Monkey Forest. (map)
- How much: 50k to 100k IDR (£2.50- £5) for a typical Asian meal.
If you're in the southern end of town, you can't beat a stop at Pundi Pundi.
They specialise in everyone's favourite south-east Asian foods, including pad thai, nasi goreng, and beef rendang, all served in a tree-lined, open-walled hut on the main road, which lets the smells of the incredible food here drift out on the gentle breeze.
I know I might sound like a stuck record at this point, but this is how a lot of Ubud restaurants are, and it works! If it ain't broke...
The staff here are friendly and helpful, and the restaurant is well presented, as is the food. The atmosphere is buzzy without being intense, and it's often used as a hangout spot because of that, particularly after a few hours at the nearby Yoga Barn or Monkey Forest.
Particular props go to layout and ambience for this one. They have thought about everything, and it shows.
World Foods
Now, we know not everyone is of the Asian persuasion when it comes to food, but Ubud (and Far Out) has you covered! After all, if you starved whilst backpacking Ubud based on our guide, that'd look bad on us, really.
So don't do it!
In all seriousness, these places are all top quality and deserve to be on this list. We just didn't want this blog to be three days long, so we'll hit them out quickly now.
Also, by pure chance, all of these are within two minutes walk of each other, about 15 minutes south of the Monkey Forest.
Must be something in the air down here.
Mamma Mia
Mamma Mia (lazy naming aside) is a great, small Italian. Shock. They do okay pasta, but the reason we're here is the pizza!
Their pizza oven takes up a third of the entire restaurant, and smashes out pizzas fresh to order in a few minutes. There's a solid choice of toppings, but most importantly; they deliver!
Viva la Italia!
Yamma Yaa
Sticking with Italy, we meet Yamma Yaa.
Run by a bubbly, vibrant Italian ex-mafioso dude plastered with scars, this place is amazing. He's a massively friendly bloke, but has this manic look in his eyes that makes you pretty sure he's killed someone. He is bat shit crazy, but I love him.
Needless to say, your meal's going to be fun!
If you can't choose between here and Mamma Mia, do Mamma Mia for takeaway, and eat in here. The food is hearty Italian cooking, coupled with epic views over sunny rice fields.
I recall many evenings watching the sunset over the paddys, beer in hand, and a pizza being placed lovingly in front of me. Why did I leave?
**Feb 2023 Update** It appears that Yamma Yaa is permanently closed. ** Stand by for further updates**
Taco Casa
If all the Indonesian food is getting a bit samey, here's a change for you. All you need to do is this: rock up, sit down, order the 'Wet Burrito', thank me later.
It might sound like a shit sex move, but the Wet Burrito is amazing! I had it the first time, and every time after. Like a devoted husband, I never strayed. I doubt you will either.
Nostimo
A bit random in the jungle, but Nostimo is a Greek restaurant that could be straight from the streets of Santorini.
Run by a really nice bloke called Bernard and his friendly team of staff, this place isn't the cheapest. But for a taste of the Mediterranian in the Southern hemisphere, it doesn't get much better.
Where to Party Whilst Backpacking Ubud
Whilst you can (and probably will) have some amazing nights out whilst backpacking Ubud, that's not really the focus! Ubud's mostly about the daytime activities and culture, and the nightlife has kind of followed on after that. If you're after a big session in Bali, aim for Kuta and Canggu!
In fact, most of the nightlife here is geared around food. You have your meal, then kick it back with a few drinks and some live entertainment after. You'll notice most places on this list have been already recommended for food. That's why!
In terms of drinks, you'll find plenty of happy hours around, a mix of local drinks and beers, and plenty of Western brands thrown in.
In particular, keep your eyes open for Arak! This is the local spirit, and I honestly don't know what goes into it, but I reckon it's what illegal moonshine tasted like in 1920s America. Give it a go if you're feeling brave! Big respect if you don't cough.
Also, the Indonesian favourite beer is Bintang, and you'll find tons of the stuff here. If you're on a budget - this is the way to go.
Laughing Buddha (Again)
- What:Â It's a restaurant that transforms into a mini-club at night, playing great crowd-pleasers.
- Where: Again, right in the centre of the main drag. (map)
Laughing Buddha is one of the best spots in Ubud for dinner, but also for continuing the party after!
Grab a happy hour cocktail early doors (4-7pm), demolish your meal, and then get your groove on after, hitting up round two of happy hour from 11 til 1!
What makes Laughing Buddha so good, though, is the live music every night. Some of the acts are properly talented! Combine this with fun, friendly staff and a not-too-big dancefloor, it doesn't take much to get the atmosphere rocking.
A lot of bands play the same night every week, with guest slots on Saturdays. If you're feeling lucky, this can be a blinding night out! But the band you need to get over to see is Akustika, who now play on Fridays (but double-check this beforehand). They're a talented three-piece with a massive repertoire of modern classics. Shout out a song, and these guys can probably play it.
No Mas (Again)
- What:Â We're headed to the small, grungy rock bar!
- Where: A short walk north of the Monkey Forest. (map)
Keeping up the theme of revisiting places we've had dinner at earlier, time to dive back into... whatever No Mas is!
We're leaving the nostalgic pool cinema behind, and heading through that church door and up into the tiny rock bar upstairs. Obviously.
It's small, dark, dingy, and really damn loud! The drinks are flowing, the bar is well-stocked, particularly with brand-name booze, and you can have a brilliant, deafening night here.
Heads up, the music flits between rock, heavy rock, and what my Great-Uncle Michael would call 'a bloody racket!'. It's not a gentle night out, but it's a damn good one.
XL Shisha Lounge
- What:Â Kinda self-explanatory, this one! It's a small, relaxed shisha bar.
- Where: Near Ubud Markets. (map)
The XL Shisha Lounge has a wonderful, cave-like interior. The rooms are all small, different, and kinda cosy. It's got character. It's somewhere very different for Ubud, but in a good way.
A night out here usually involves sharing a pipe (obviously), shooting a few games of pool, chilling out on the cushions, and realising at the end that you've had about 15 beers without really thinking, and the room is spinning when you stand up. There's some ambient music, sometimes live, and the whole place has a kinda Moroccan vibe to it.
If you just want somewhere to hang out with mates, this is the place! It's also open till the early hours, so you'll probably run out of steam before they turf you out anyway.
CP Lounge
- What: Pretty much an outdoor sports bar with a twist.
- Where: Between XL and Laughing Buddha in the centre. (map)
The CP Lounge is a big outdoor bar, split into zones. There's a weird mix of relaxing shisha areas, offering table service for some reason, like three bars, numerous pool tables, and a wall plastered with giant screens showing every sport known to man. There's also occasional live music to add to the mix.
This is probably one of the biggest bars you'll find backpacking Ubud, and you can tell it's trying to be all things to all people.
Consequently, it's hard to work out what it is you're actually meant to do here. Is it a fun sports bar, or a relaxing chill-out zone? Maybe it's a live music venue? I don't know, but 'lounge' is definitely a good word for it.
Nonetheless, I do like it in a weird, creepy way. It's like when someone lets slip an ugly celebrity crush. Instantly you want to lash out and take the piss, but after a while, it just becomes a weird new normal.
Ultimately, you'll find CP Lounge can either thrill or disappoint. It's really hit and miss each night. If it gets it right, it's epic! If it's bad, it's real bad.
Good luck!
Best Of The Rest!
Those are the best and brightest, but when you're backpacking Ubud, there's always another bar!
Here's some others that deserve a stop:
L.O.L Bar
Despite being named like an early 2000s gay club, it turns out this is the best damn reggae bar in Ubud!
Well, the bar is great, at least. The music is... not.
As far as I can tell, someone realised Ubud is missing a reggae bar, and built one. They then realised they needed someone to play some actual reggae. Good thing their cousin Wayan has a Bob Marley CD, and once shared a spliff! Therefore, he's the most qualified guy in Ubud to bring some Caribbean love to the Indonesian jungle. It's a brilliant, hilarious mess.
I actually loved it here anyway. The garden out back is pretty, and the bar itself does some really good drinks. If you go in prepared for the music to sound like the guy singing had only ever read about reggae on Wikipedia, you'll have a right laugh.
Now, I love reggae anyway, so I could be biased. However, despite the crap performance, L.O.L Bar is a great night out.
Ibu Susu
We're classing it up to finish!
Ibu Susu does some of the best cocktails in town. It's kind of a New York- or London-style cocktail bar, with prices to (relatively) match. Expect stripped-back decor, a touch of class, and quality service.
It was too expensive for me to come here regularly, and will be for lots of us backpacking Ubud on a budget. However, if you're on a bigger budget or want somewhere to impress a date, this is the place to do it!
Is Backpacking Ubud Safe?
There's not much to go wrong when you're backpacking Ubud, really. It's dead safe, and if you have any common sense at all, you're unlikely to have any problems.
The biggest issue most people would have is accidentally pissing off a monkey or stray dog. This is easily avoided by following the monkey rules, but the bottom line is if you leave them alone, they'll leave you alone too! Nice and easy, right?
Worst case scenario would be one of them has a nibble on you. If this happens, a quick trip to the doctor south of the Monkey Forest, near Liyer House, is in order. They speak English, and will sort you out with a quick, but expensive, rabies jab.
You'll find the locals are usually somewhere between passive and friendly, and are happy having you milling about. However, if you do something to start a fight with one of them, you'll find that eight more join in, and they're not on your side. Really, the 'Don't Be A Dick' rule applies - in all my time here, I never saw anyone get in trouble they didn't deserve.
Next up, the pavements and roads are basically a collection of potholes. You'll be walking one minute, and if you take your eyes off the path too long, you're liable to end up in the sewer. Also, the traditional line between pavement and road is a bit blurred in Indonesia, and you'll find motorbikes briefly join you on your walks. They're never that fast; you'll get used to it quickly, and just end up laughing about it.
In a big market town, you might expect issues with pickpocketing and scams, but that's not the case in Ubud! No one backpacking Ubud on any of my tours had anything nicked, nor were they scammed. A few did pay over the odds at markets, but this is just because their haggling skills weren't up to scratch!
Finally, it's worth noting that Indonesia is in an earthquake zone. The good news is that in Ubud, there's no tall buildings to fall over, and you're in the middle of the island, way out of range of any tsunamis. It's about as safe as you'll be anywhere in Indonesia!
Overall, I took tons of people on tours backpacking Ubud, and there were never any major issues. To that end, don't be a dick, apply a bit of common sense, and you won't have to worry about anything more than where you're headed for lunch.
Leave a comment
Phew! If you've made it this far, you're prepared with all the information I can give you. You're ready to backpack Ubud!
If you've used this guide whilst backpacking Ubud, let us know how it went! Has anything changed? Are there some amazing new bars we need to visit when we're next here? Let us know!
Similarly, if you're planning a trip to this beautiful jungle town, tell us when and where you're going. I'll get you a driver!
Thanks for sticking with this long one to the end, I appreciate it!
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