Bethlehem, Palestine: The Non-Tour Tour
Last Updated: April 22, 2023
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Explore Beyond the Walls
Firstly, the words Bethlehem, Palestine conjure up a mixture of emotions, thoughts and ideas in so many people. But what makes the city beyond the walls so unique, so thought of and a must-visit whilst travelling in Israel and Palestine?
Uniquely and undeniably, it is the city's history. Significantly, for being the birthplace of Jesus over two thousand years ago.
Whilst the city is shrouded with numerous references to Jesus and the extraordinary Christian and Muslim faiths, the recent history explains much more about Bethlehem's current way of life.
For this reason, the West Bank Wall, the wall of separation between Israel and Palestine, is one of the major highlights for tourists. It's enveloped in propaganda artworks portraying resilience, a show of strength and love of the people caught within.
Now, you can take an organised tour of Bethlehem. However, I am here to tell you to ditch the organised tours and create your own. You will discover extraordinary faiths, stories, and people and get a sense of what it is to be Palestinian, and that is what we will show you today in this blog.
All information is fresh from my self-made tour during my latest trip in January 2023.
What's Bethleham, Palestine Like?
A disastrous, enclosing, eight-meter-tall, and at points, three-meter-thick wall weaves around the western fringes of Bethlehem. One side is clean, tidy, orderly and oozes wealth. The other is Bethlehem and Palestine.
By and large, the parts of Bethlehem considered 'tourist hotspots' are well maintained, clean and super friendly. However, if you step out of that zone, you will find poverty, dirtiness and despair on every street corner.
Contrasts between Israel and Palestine cannot be drawn. Likewise, parts of Bethlehem also suffer this tragic fate. Money is spent where it's seen and not on the out-of-sight-out-of-mind. Therefore, it is impossible to conclude what Bethlehem is like - other than divided. Consequently, I'm splitting the reviews.
Nevertheless, you can always expect to find friendly people, hope, contagious smiles and a belief that, one day, life will be free and fair.
Touristic Area
Much like Jerusalem, the often narrow streets are full of flavour, colour and noise. A mishmash of smells completes the picture, with all sorts of foods searing away throughout.
The roadways are busy and feel enclosed. Similarly, the architecture feels as if additional levels are thrown on top of the last. Then, without warning, the streets open up into large squares with impressive buildings and those, oh, so familiar shiny and torturous when wet cobbled streets. From the tired-looking, layered structures, you know you're in a more poverty-stricken area than Jerusalem. Yet, there is a sense of cleanliness and pride.
Just be careful not to shout too loud about needing to go somewhere or wanting a taxi. Otherwise, you will find yourself in the middle of a scrum. From drivers to restaurants, people want your business, and, at times, it feels more like Morocco or India.
The Out-of-Sight-Out-of-Mind
Step away from the hotspots and you'll discover a vastly different Bethlehem. Camp Aida is the perfect example of forgotten people.
Scorched, upside-down cars, burnt turrets and a shift in styles of art clad the wall. People are poor and live day to day with little help.
Across these areas, rubbish is often tossed aside over a wall, with an attitude of, if I can't see it, I've cleaned up. However, it still rots with the growing piles blowing freely in the wind.
On the whole, you can feel the tension and the desperation, and that is, in part, Israel's making.
Whilst it's a permanent part of Bethlehem, it has a temporary vibe. Corrugated fences and crumbling walls add to that sensation. To a degree, it's edgy, but something you should experience and may not see with an organised tour. Although, there are still big named brands like Pandora.
Through it all remains the smiles, hope, and pride unseen you'd struggle to find elsewhere.
Overall, I expected more aggression, more confrontation, but it never came. In fact, the more dissolute the area became, the nicer the people got.
How to Get To Bethlehem
Frankly, there are many ways of getting to Bethlehem, Palestine. Although, the majority of you will be coming from Jerusalem on the Israel side of the wall.
Firstly, despite not having any problems crossing the wall, I've been told of threatening, scary and intimidating interrogations, which didn't sound all that fun.
Expect that when you cross between Israel and Palestine. For a smooth crossing, you will need your passport with your entry stamp or your passport and your Israeli entry card. If you do not have them on you, you may not be allowed back into Israel.
So what are your options?
Of course, the first, and possibly the easiest option is to take an organised tour. You will have a guide with you at all times, and they will assist in making the crossing as seamless as possible. You will also be provided with more information than travelling on your own. Obviously, there are advantages. Nevertheless, for me, Bethlehem is best explored without the crowds and time frames of a tour.
Next, you can take a local bus.
The easiest option is from the bus station next to Damascus Gate in Jerusalem.
The number 231 runs regularly, taking around 50 minutes, costing 5.50₪ each way, with the last bus at about 7pm. (Bus times are always rough here). Arriving in Bethlehem will mean a drop off on Beit Jala Road, a short 20-minute walk to the Church of Nativity. You will be pestered by taxi drivers wanting to charge you an arm and a leg. Say no, walk on and ignore them. The walk is easy.
Thirdly, you can take a taxi from anywhere within Jerusalem.
You will be dropped at the checkpoint to the north of Bethlehem on Hebron Road, where you will have to walk through the wall, potentially answer a couple of questions, show some documents and then hop in a yellow Palestinian cab the rest of the journey. On the way back, you can do the same, in reverse, but expect a harsher interrogation. Your documents will be needed at this point.
Timing your Trip
How Long Should You Spend in Bethlehem, Palestine
Bethlehem is an odd one. There is a lot to do and see in the city. Yet, some tours fly through Bethlehem and another two, sometimes three, locations within the same day.
Hence, why I say don't go on an organised tour of Bethlehem.
If you arrive early and take a cab to some tourist attractions, such as the Shepherds Fields, you could smash out Bethlehem in a day. However, if you decide to walk everywhere, you will be rushed.
Therefore, I suggest a full day or potentially staying for one night. There isn't a need to extend much longer than that.
The Best Time Of The Year For Bethlehem, Palestine
As with much of the Middle East, the best time of year to visit Bethlehem is April to June and October, avoiding the rains of winter and the extreme heat of summer.
Where to Stay Whilst in Bethlehem, Palestine
As always, I will only recommend things I have experienced, places I have stayed, and restaurants and bars I've eaten and think are worth risking my reputation on.
Therefore, having only been on day trips, I cannot recommend any accommodation in Bethlehem, Palestine.
However, I can suggest rough locations that I'd stay in if I returned to Bethlehem for a night. Please see the below map. I have highlighted the area I'd stay in Yellow.
To help you in your quest, I have, as always, given you three links to very different styles of accommodation in Bethlehem.
Check them out and see what you think.
If you have stayed in Bethlehem, please leave me a comment at the bottom of the blog. Let me know where you stayed and what you thought of the place. That way, we can help guide future backpackers in Bethlehem, Palestine, on where to stay.
Best Things to do when Backpacking Bethlehem
As mentioned above, you can walk to all the tourist attractions within Bethlehem. Most are within close proximity. Although, if you only have a day, you will be running around like a lunatic. Especially if you want to see all the famous Banksy artwork and Shepherds Fields.
If walking isn't for you, you only have two options - buses and taxis. There are many taxis in Bethlehem, and they will be more than willing to take you wherever you want.
Having last explored the city in January 2023, I have compiled a list of what I think are the best things to see and do in Bethlehem. Here is my highlights list...
Bethlehem, Palestine: The Highlights
Explore the Wall and its Art Work
- Why: Simply because it's surreal, unreal and darn right mad.
- Where: Surrounding the northern and western circumference of Bethlehem. (map)
- How long: You can walk as much or as little as you like. I'd suggest an hour or two.
- How much: The best price for any backpacker or traveller - it's free.
As a result of years of war, terror and death, the Israelis built this four-hundred-and-forty-mile-long, eight-meter high, and in parts three meters thick wall around Palestine.
In effect, the wall/fence imprisons nearly five million people, cutting close to family homes, blocking light, splitting loved ones and ruining life for those on both sides.
However, the Palestinian people are trying to fight the oppression, hate and segregation by painting stories of hope, love and peace, as well as political statements. Some of the most famous images are from world-renowned artists such as Banksy.
Whilst you may not agree with all the pictures, the wall is now being used to showcase support for minority groups, including LGBTQ+ and BLM, and showing tyrants like Trump for who they are.
It's a powerful place to explore and often leaves you speechless. Ultimately, you can't imagine it until you've seen it yourself.
Take the Banksy Tour of Bethlehem
- Why: Firstly, it's fun trying to find them, and secondly, they're amazing to see in person.
- Where: Dotted across the city. Officially there are five left. Although, there are many more unconfirmed images. (map)
- How long: You could take hours if you walk to them all. However, you may want to sneak a cab ride for some of them.
- How much: Here is my favourite word again - Free!
Banksy is an elusive and controversial street artist whose work sells worldwide for millions of pounds.
He is best known for his political statements such as flower thrower, kissing coppers, bomb hugger and slave labour.
Here, in Bethlehem, you can visit some of his most famous and hotly-discussed pieces of work. Most of which tell tales of the conflict between Palestine and Israel.
Whilst some are on the wall, many are dotted around the city. You can find some of his best and boldest work throughout Bethlehem, including:
- Girl Frisking the Soldier
- Armoured Dove
- Flower Thrower
- The Girl with the Balloons
These artworks are now part of Palestine, and you should make every effort to visit as many as you can whilst in Bethlehem. You will spot others along the wall too.
Discover the birthplace of Jesus at the Church of Nativity
- Why: Not being a religious person, it's hard to answer this, but as you're here, you should, right?
- Where: Next to the tourist centre, Milk Grotto and the Chapel of St Catherine on Maggid Mezritch. (map)
- How long: Half an hour is all you'll need here.
- How much: Once again, it's free. Bethlehem, Palestine, is epic for the budget backpacker.
This is the single biggest reason why people visit Bethlehem, Palestine.
As the Bible tells, Mary and Joseph rode from Nazareth to Bethlehem, where they gave birth to Jesus. The Church of Nativity, built in the fourth century, stands on the spot where Jesus was born.
Hence, under the altar, within a small underground cave, you can see the stone on which Jesus was born and his almost chicken-coupe-looking manger, which is very different to the pictures I'd seen.
Above ground, the altar is, as expected, the centrepiece of the church, with a magnific gold facade and lavish chandeliers overhead. Outside of that, the church is relatively underwhelming. It's pretty but in a nonchalant unassuming way.
If I'm honest, I was a little disappointed with the overall experience but did enjoy having to crouch down into the hobbit-sized door to get in.
Visit the Milk Grotto
- Why: Above all, it is a beautiful church, and if you can catch the procession, you're in for a treat.
- Where: Next to the Church of Nativity and the cutest little tourist shops. (map)
- How long: Again, you will only need twenty minutes.
- How much: You know it's free.
Frankly, this is one of the smaller religious buildings you'll come across in Israel and Palestine.
Yet, with its unique style and sublime carved interior and exterior, it may just be the prettiest. The Milk Grotto is a Catholic Chapel and is said to be where the three wise kings presented their gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh to Jesus.
Inside, you will notice the stone is a clean shade of white. This is due to the Virgin Mary spilling breast milk when feeding Jesus.
As well as visiting the building for its looks, you should visit during a procession. During the spectacle, around six to eight nuns weave around the church singing hymns until they reach the altar. Once there, they face the altar and sing another couple of hymns. In a like manner to the building, the sound is unique and calming.
As a non-religious person, I was massively impressed with how surreal it was. The nuns almost glided their way around, and I am unsure if this phrase is acceptable, but the sound was heavenly.
A must during your tour of Bethlehem.
(At your own risk) Investigate life in Camp Aida
- Why: For me, it was something I had heard about and wanted to see. But also to show support.
- Where: To the north of the city near Rachel's Tomb. (map)
- How long: Take as long as you need. In reality, I'd say about fifteen to twenty minutes.
- How much: Yep, it's free.
Whilst this may not be hitting every 'best thing to do in Bethlehem' blog, it hits mine. Not because it's inviting or flaunts grandeur and wealth or has any impressive buildings as the rest of Bethlehem does.
Above all, this is on my list because it shows what life is like for millions of people and how they deal with segregation and living at the foot of the grotesque Israel-Palestine Wall.
The camp runs along the northern section of the wall and is home to between two thousand five hundred and three thousand people.
Life is tough for the people trapped within the camp as nearly half its residents are unemployed, water is not always assessable, and medical treatment is remarkably sparse.
Conditions are tough, but the people are tougher, and occasionally, things can boil over, hence the 'enter at your own risk' statement. Crime and attacks can happen. Although some people were stand-offish, many said hello while others smiled and waved.
It was a humbling moment within my non-tour tour of Bethlehem and one you would miss on an organised tour.
Where to Eat When In Bethlehem
Having not stayed for more than day trips, I haven't experienced the best of the cuisine in Bethlehem, and I am sure there are some exceptional places out there.
All I can recommend is where I have eaten and enjoyed the food, and that's somewhat limited.
Nevertheless, food in Bethlehem isn't confined to restaurants.
Street vendors and markets were a hive of activity. The markets were full of fresh produce from dates to oranges and fish to bananas, and it was a colourful affair that smelt amazing. Likewise, the street vendors rustle up incredible-looking treats from roasted nuts to sandwiches and sweets, and frankly, if I had the time, I would have stopped at them all, but didn't.
Anyhow, back to my two recommendations...
Afteem
- What: Authentic local restaurant punching out incredible flavours in a fun and friendly environment.
- Where: Next to the Visitor Centre outside the Church of Nativity. (map)
- How much: Large starters, two mains and a couple of beers set us back 151₪ (£34.50).
Outside, the family-run team fry up flavorful falafels, and if you ask nicely, they may let you try one. If you do, you're hooked, and without sounding like Arnie, you will be back.
Inside is a fascinating, cave-like restaurant with a stylish interior. The menu is simple but effective and full of flavour.
Local dishes play a critical role in the menu, with tradition and that family secrete recipe providing a nice twist.
Overall, outstanding service, friendly staff and a wicked vibe throughout. I highly recommend the lamb.
Fawanees
- What: Sweet, sticky and delicious cakes and knafeh.
- Where: Just south of the crossroads between Hebron Road and Children Street. (map)
- How much: Tasty sweet treats start from 30₪ (£6.50).
Firstly, there are a couple of Fawanees in Bethlehem. The map above just so happens to be the one I went to.
In essence, this is your dessert shop for ice cream, cakes, sticky buns and the scrumptious knafeh.
Sit-in or takeaway, you are in for a treat. Portion sizes are decent, the taste is phenomenal, and the service is on point.
Inside is a large, open-planned restaurant displaying a masterclass of desserts. Your job is to decide which ones you want. And trust me, that's not easy - you'll want them all. Try as many as you can physically squeeze in.
Where to Party Whilst Exploring Bethlehem, Palestne
You may not be surprised, but Bethlehem isn't an alcohol-flowing party city.
If it's partying you want, you will need to go to Jerusalem.
However, that doesn't mean there aren't fun and tasty local drinks to try whilst here.
Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks are available across Bethlehem.
A couple to look out for are Arak, a punchy alcoholic spirit and the less-punchy, classic Arabic coffee or the delicious fresh fruit juices.
In reality, you can grab an Arabic coffee or fresh juice almost anywhere in the city, and they will be great. Yet, I am only recommending one place, and that is...
Star & Bucks
- What: Fresh juice bar with great banter.
- Where: Almost opposite the central bus station. (map)
Star and Bucks is a fun and friendly juice bar and is a must-visit during any self-made excursion in Bethlehem.
Freshly hand-pressed fruits such as pomegranates and oranges are one of the most refreshing moments of this non-tour tour.
Sabrio, one of the guys who works there, is a legend. With all the banter, an infectious smile and allowing us to head behind the counter to press our own drinks meant we had the best experience possible. He is brilliant.
Stupendous, fresh and tasty flavours in the best environment. What's not to love?
Is Backpacking Bethlehem, Palestine Safe?
So, no guide to Bethlehem will tell you it's the safest place in the world - because it isn't. There are places you shouldn't go and other places you wouldn't want to be lost in, especially during the hours of darkness. For example, don't wander around Aida refugee camp at night.
Poverty and mistreatment of many people in Bethlehem, including the camp, increase the risk of petty crimes, robbery, assault and theft. Ultimately, you will sense a heightened tension and a change of vibe if you stray from the tourist areas. You can counter this by staying in touristy areas and not showing off your wealth. For example, don't wear flashy watches and jewellery or have your wallet overflowing with notes and on display.
Although, I have to point out that not once did I witness any form of harassment, intimidation or violence. Furthermore, all I discovered were happy, helpful and smiling faces. The people were some of the friendliest people I've met on my travels.
Yet, with high levels of poverty and the stresses and conflict with Israel, there's always a chance that things can go wrong. As I write this in February 2023, pressures have boiled over, with both sides of the wall to blame for terrorism and attacks.
Generally speaking, the best way to describe Bethlehem is unpredictable. Always exercise extreme caution and be aware of your surroundings. If something unexpected happens during your trip, the locals will be the first to help you. Follow their advice and stay indoors. Nevertheless, if you stick to the 'tourist path' and at a reasonable time of the day, you should be perfectly safe.
Leave a comment
Well, that's me done! I hope you've enjoyed my non-tour tour of Bethlehem, Palestine.
Ideally, I have shown you that you don't need to be scared into using an expensive and often rushed guided tour. Bethlehem is somewhere you can explore on your own. Although, if you are nervous, travelling alone, and are someone who worries about things like the border crossing, you should consider an organised tour.
Whilst I did enjoy the trip to Bethlehem, Palestine, it is not somewhere I'd rush back to. It didn't have the wow factor or keep me intrigued as many other places have.
Overall, no matter what you choose to do, be it exploring on your own or with an organised tour, you will have a memorable time, especially if you are Christian.
Finally, if you have used my guide and found it helpful, please let me know with a comment below. Likewise, if you think I've missed a trick, again, let me know that too. All comments are welcome to help build the best guide possible.
All that's left for me to say is, have a great time in Bethlehem.
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Normally I do not read article on blogs however I would like to say that this writeup very forced me to try and do so Your writing style has been amazed me Thanks quite great post
Thank you so much, that’s very kind of you. I always try to say it how I see it.
Loved the raw honesty in this post, Greg. You captured the contrasts of Bethlehem well — the emotion, resilience, beauty, and heartbreak that coexist here. The way you stepped beyond the polished Church of the Nativity experience to explore Aida Camp, the wall art, and everyday street life really brings the city to life for readers who may only know it through headlines or tourist brochures. Appreciate you highlighting the people and their warmth too — that’s something many overlook. Thanks for sharing a balanced, on-the-ground perspective of this complex and deeply spiritual place.
Such kind words, thank you. I think Bethlehem is a magical place full of outstanding, kind people. When I get the chance, I’d love to come and meet more people there and further experience the city.