Backpacking Chefchaouen, Morocco - A Travel Guide
Last Updated: March 9, 2024
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HOW TO GET HERE | WHERE TO STAY | THINGS TO DO | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO PARTY | STAYING SAFE
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Time Goes Slower In The Mountains
When the relentless pace of Morocco's cities gets too intense, there's a cure: spend a few days backpacking Chefchaouen!
Known as the Blue City, Chefchaouen (pronounced sheh-shao-en) is in north-east Morocco's Rif mountains, and is the most picturesque, artsy place to in the country to take a few days and slow life down.
After the pace of Morocco's busy cities, a few days strolling through the turquoise medina, hiking to old mosques, and tucking into 'Chaouen's scrumptious street food will have you right as rain in no time.
And all that's great.
But chilled evenings spent shooting the shit with other backpackers and watching the sun set over the mountains from a rooftop terrace, all whilst nursing a cup of Morocco's legendary mint tea?
That's the sort of shit that makes you fall in love with a place. And makes it hard to leave.
The town itself is famous for two things: its central medina, which is painted almost entirely blue; and for producing a truly incredible amount of dope.
More on that one later.
I spent 4 days catching my breath and soaking up the chilled vibes here, and, hand on heart, I'd have happily stayed weeks. This is my sort of place: beautiful, bohemian, and kind.
This guide will walk you through where to stay, what to do, what to expect and, critically, how to properly unwind whilst backpacking Chefchaouen; Morocco's mountain gem.
What's Chefchaouen Like?
Chefchaouen just sort of... appears on the mountainside as you wind your way through the roads. It looks like a normal, small town, until you spot its blue heart.
The outskirts of the town could be anywhere in Morocco. Beige, slightly crumbly looking buildings flank the road as you trek your way (or, like me, you look at your backpack, then at the hill, and hail a petit taxi instead) from the bus station to the edge of the medina.
Here, everything turns blue.
You head in, and are greeted by the pungent smell of spices, handcrafted trinkets, and vibrant leathers everywhere, all against this sky-blue backdrop. There's a lot of stairs and levels, and you're surrounded in three dimensions by the place, which would be overwhelming if the whole place wasn't so chilled.
People chat and greet you as you walk past, and if you've been to Morocco's bigger cities already, you'll probably feel on-guard as they do. It's okay. They're just being kind. This is Morocco's incredible hospitality without the pushy salesmanship behind it. It's amazing.
This is why I advise backpacking Chefchaouen as a break from the rest of Morocco. The people know the place has a chilled reputation, and they want to maintain it. 'Bohemian' sums it up here. The peace and kindness extends everywhere, you can be walking down the street and someone will invite you to see the litter of kittens their cat just had, or up onto their terrace for a cup of tea and to watch the sunset. Both happened to me.
It's just a shame Morocco has you on such guard the rest of the time, because you don't really need it here, and it takes a while to adjust. But when you do, you'll find some of the kindest people I've ever encountered on my travels.
How To Get To Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen is waaaay up in the Rif Mountains, and it's not really that close to anywhere else.
There's no airport near Chefchaouen - the nearest is Tangier, but you're more likely to find flights from Fes.
So, wherever you're coming from, you're looking at making your way by road, and that means you're either coming by taxi or bus!
Unless you've got big bags of money to piss away here, then it'll be the bus. And that leaves you three companies.
The big two are CTM, the national bus company, and Supratours, their plucky underdog competitor.
Both offer big, air-conditioned buses, and Supratours is usually a bit cheaper. CTM, however, has their schedule online, and allows online booking! Otherwise, you'll have to check times at the station. I used both companies in Morocco at various points, and they're both about as good as a few hours on a bus can be!
There's also a mysterious third operator running buses to 'Chaouen, Nejma Chamal, but their schedule appears to be a closely guarded secret. Just know they exist if you're looking.
Wherever you are, aim for the city's bus station (search for 'Gare Routiere' on your map), and head there. There'll be a big CTM ticket stand, and a tiny Supratours one tucked in a broom cupboard nearby.
Let's quickly talk routes and times:
Tangier - Chefchaouen - 2hrs 30 each way - at least twice a day - approx 50 MAD (£4)
Tetouan - Chefchaouen - 1hr 40 each way - at least 6 times a day - approx 30 MAD (£2.50)
Fes - Chefchaouen - 4hrs 30 each way - at least 3 times a day - approx 80 MAD (£6.50)
There's also one from Casablanca, but that's a 7-hour ride, which sounds grim.
When you arrive, you'll be at the bus station at the bottom of town, and the medina is at the top. It's a 20-minute walk, and the hill is steep, particularly when you've got bags. If you take one look and say, "Fuck that!" (like I did), a petit taxi will take you up for around 10-15 MAD (around £1).
Timing your Trip
How long should you spend backpacking Chefchaouen?
If you're committed, you could see the town in a day and move on.
Please don't do that.
Instead, budget at least three days. Chefchaouen is a tranquil oasis in a restless desert - a place to stop, relax and recharge.
There's not a load to do here, but it's got a special way of making you feel at home just wandering its small streets. Give yourself a few days and you'll feel rejuvenated, ready to dive into the next city.
The best time of year for backpacking Chefchaouen
That depends on your plans for the rest of Morocco.
If you're staying up north, you can come in the height of summer and enjoy that sweet Mediterranean summer weather - we're looking at June-September.
If you're heading further south, Morocco may well end up being too hot in peak summer, so head here in the shoulder season - it'll be less crowded and a bit cooler. We're talking March-May and October-November.
I was backpacking Chefchaouen in January, and it felt like I had the place pretty much to myself. It was great, but it was really cold at night! All hostels and hotels cater for this in Morocco, giving you mountains of thick, warm blankets for bedtime.
Still, you'll want to bring a good amount of layers - check the packing guide for Morocco for more on this.
Ultimately, for backpacking Chefchaouen itself it's a toss-up between hotter weather and the crowds that brings, or cooler weather and less hustle and bustle.
However, if you're planning on heading down to the desert, give high summer a miss. Trust me.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen is small, remote, and relies a lot on tourism to keep itself going.
This is good news for you! It means there's plenty of accommodation to choose from. So let's get our bearings...
The medina (which is the bit painted blue) is the highest part of the town. It has the shops and stalls, and is the prettiest bit of the town.
As you head downhill it's mostly apartment buildings, houses, and the bus station. The hill is steep, and pretty much all the interesting stuff at the top, in the medina.
So get your accommodation there.
The medina is also the perfect place to stay if you're planning to cross over and see the Spanish-built mosque on the opposite hillside, with its spectacular views over the city, or head out into the mountains on a hike.
As for where to stay...
Hotel Souika
- What: A good-sized hostel with both private rooms and dorms.
- Where: Dead centre of the medina. 2-minute walk from the main square. (Map)
- Why: Couldn't be closer to the action, plus that rooftop terrace is the perfect place to chill in the evening.
- Why Not: No en-suites, and no brekky included.
Walking through Chefchaouen's medina, everything twists and turns, and the entrance to this place is easy to miss. It's just a doorway with a sign.
Step inside, though, and it makes the TARDIS look like a broom cupboard. It just keeps going! It's made of two kinda separate blocks, over about 4 different floors. I don't even really know how to explain it, so just know that you'll find tons of rooms, dorms, and communal areas, plus that awesome terrace.
It's a classic backpacker hostel: cheap, right in the thick of everything, and geared around giving guests places to chill and socialise. It's perfect for solo backpackers, as you'll meet people easily. Staff are friendly enough - I didn't see much of them as the hostel is self-catered - but everything was sensibly laid out.
The rooms are completely basic, with pretty much just a bed and some shelves/drawers for furniture, shutter-style windows, and painted Chaouen's classic blue. Bathrooms are communal, with no en-suites that I'm aware of.
The big selling point for me, though, is that big ol' rooftop terrace, with views out over the Rif mountains, where you can hang with the other guests and enjoy the sunset and chat shit into the night.
It's not the most glam of places, but it hits all the marks a good hostel should.
Oh, and there is a huge wet room underneath a staircase that has one of the best showers I've ever used. I was in there for nearly 20 minutes. Heaven.
Other Accommodation
Hotel Souika absolutely did everything I needed, but I know it might not be everyone's cup of tea.
If you haven't already, read up on our guide to finding the best accommodation, and then have a look to see what ticks the boxes for you.
Airbnb has a load of private flats and houses to rent at around the £30/night mark, which is a good shout if you're in a group.
Booking.com is mostly pointing to higher-end riads, which I'm sure would be lovely if you have the cash, and duplicates of hostels on Hostelworld.
Hostelworld has several options, including two B&B-type places that are reviewed higher than Souika. These would be the best balance between cost and comfort and I considered them both, but the hostel vibes of Souika clinched it for me.
Things to do when Backpacking Chefchaouen
This is a bit of a weird one, because, despite having spent several days here, I struggle to put my finger on what the hell I actually did in that time.
Chefchaouen isn't a place to come and do stuff. In fact, it's more about not doing stuff. It's about relaxing somewhere beautiful, soaking in the peace, and getting away from it all.
The good stuff to see and do in Chefchaouen itself is pretty much all in the central, small medina. There's a couple of bits further out, but not much.
So I'm not going to give you an itinerary to see everything efficiently, because you'll be done in a day. Instead, I'm going to talk through some highlights, and leave it up to you to pick the order. If you've budgeted three days here, you'll have plenty of time to see and do it all.
Backpacking Chefchaouen: The Highlights
It's a short list! The aim isn't to do it all as fast as possible, the aim is to enjoy it. Tap into the relaxed vibes here and be mindful as you savour this wonderfully unique town.
One: Explore the Medina
- Why: It's peaceful, rustic, and oh-so-blue.
- Where: The highest point of the town (map)
- How long: You could see it all in a few hours, but take it slow; look in shops and chat with locals.
- How much: Free!
Chefchaouen's medina is over 500 years old, and it's aged well. The fact things are a bit crumbly and weathered under the paint is what makes it so beautiful.
Head in and spend some time exploring. It's the perfect size so that, after a day exploring, you can navigate it largely from memory. If you spot some tasty-looking street food, make a mental note and you'll be able to find it later on.
You'll find stalls selling artsy goods, spices, leather, and I even found what looked like an apothecary, with wooden shelves piled with dried plants in old, dusty glass bottles like we in the dungeons of Hogwarts. It's great.
Take some time to chat to people as well, they're so friendly! I came here after Tangier and Tetouan, and after that I was suspicious that anyone being nice was trying to get to my wallet. Not the case here. At least not enough to be uncomfortable.
For example, we were just walking into the main square when a guy in a leather shop flagged us down and beckoned us in, seeming very excited. We went in and he pointed to a low, dark corner, and in there was a cat, surrounded by about six tiny, fuzzy kittens. We ended up chatting with him for about 15 minutes, and when it came time to leave he just shook hands and said, "Welcome to Morocco!"
That's class in my book.
Also, just take some time to appreciate the rustic, beauty of where you are. Where else is painted totally blue? It's like Africa's answer to Mykonos, only you're not tripping over 'influencers' every six feet.
As you wander, you may ask yourself; why all the blue streets?
The short answer is no-one knows.
Some say the blue repels mosquitoes, imitating fresh running water. Others say it's a sacred colour in Judaism, a legacy of the large Jewish population who fled to here during the Spanish Inquisition in the 15th century, and bolstered by more Jewish refugees arriving in WW2 when it was under - ironically - Spanish control, and therefore neutral.
The more cynical say it's purely a gimmick to attract tourists.
If it is a gimmick, it worked. You'll regularly find people co-ordinating their perfect Insta shot, and rightly so. It is beautiful here. Fair play to whoever predicted the rise of the influencers 500 years early.
Two: See Chefchaouen from Above
- Why: Because if you think it's pretty from the inside, wait 'til you see the outside.
- Where: The best spot is the Spanish Mosque (map)
- How long: Half-hour walk from the medina.
- How much: Free!
If I haven't already mentioned, Chefchaouen is gorgeous.
So, when you're somewhere so beautiful, eventually you want to stand on the nearest big rock and look down on it. Neil Armstrong did it with Earth, and now you can follow in his footsteps - only in our case the nearest rock is about half an hour's walk away, and you don't need a spaceship.
It's an easy walk; it is uphill all the way, but it's only about 100 metres above the medina. To get there, walk to the highest point of the medina, then follow the main road around the hillside for about 15 minutes, then turn right. You can't miss it - it's a lonely mosque on the hillside, built with Spanish architecture.
From there, you can stand and watch the sun crack through the mountains and beat down on 'Chaouen's light blue walls. It's incredibly pretty. Spend a little time relaxing and soaking up the views.
I went in the day, but apparently the sunsets up here are spectacular. If you head up for sunset, bring a torch to head back down. It gets dark quickly.
That's it. Head up, admire the mosque, admire the view, and head back down. That's how backpacking Chefchaouen goes: there's not much to do, and you'll have a great time doing it.
Also, learn from my mistakes, and make sure your camera has some charge before you go to avoid looking like a tit when you try and make a blog post about it.
Three: (Dis)honourable Mention: Weed Farm Tours
- Why: ...Support local businesses?
- Where: Up in the mountains.
- How long: It's a day tour.
- How much: I honestly don't know - get haggling!
Wandering amongst all the blue, you'll be hit by the smell of spices, leather, and...
Is that pot?
Yes it is! Turns out this quaint blue town is the cannabis king of Africa.
According to the UN, Morocco is the world's second-largest producer of pot (only recently overtaken by the US), and most of it is grown right here in the Rif Mountains, where the dry soil doesn't support any other crops. Here, they specialise in hashish, which is the compressed resin of the plant.
This industry is now so big and provides so much to the economy that, despite cannabis being illegal, a blind eye is turned to its growth and consumption. Obviously don't smoke in front of a cop, but if you're lighting up somewhere quiet, you'll be fine.
Now, Chefchaouen is kind of a Mecca to the stoner community, and you'll see many a bloodshot-eyed, friendly pilgrim wandering the hallowed streets, possibly looking for snacks. The locals know this, and if you have a friendly chat with a few, you'll likely end up being offered a day tour up into the mountains to see it being made.
In my case, it was the guy with the litter of kittens who offered a day trip up to see his cousin. This sounded like a properly great day out, and I'd love to say I did it. However, I didn't for a couple of reasons:
- We were leaving the next day;
- I was skint for this trip and was saving my money for an overnight desert tour in Merzouga; and
- I immediately got visions of my clothes stinking of dope, and being pulled aside by security at Fes airport in a few days time when an angry, hungry dog snaps suddenly at me, and I'm led aside into a small room filled only by an unsmiling man with huge, cold hands, a tub of KY Jelly on a steel table, and two grab handles bolted to the wall, and...
Actually, let's leave that there.
All this to say: if you want to spend some time high in the mountains, this is the place. You will be offered dope a lot - I was offered twice on my 2-minute walk from the taxi to the hostel when I first arrived, and, memorably, later on by a nice dude that showed me a back room so loaded with the stuff you'd think he was hosting a bank holiday weekend with Snoop Dogg. If it's not your thing, just say no. They get it.
If it is? Well, welcome home.
Four: Relax!
- Why: It's good for you!
- Where: Rooftop terraces are a favourite.
- How long: Take all the time you need.
- How much: Free! ...again
Seriously, unwind and take it easy!
Relaxing in Chefchaouen is like falling into bed in a fancy hotel; it catches you and wraps you up a little peaceful bubble. This is rare in Morocco. Make the most.
Where to Eat When Backpacking Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen is the perfect opportunity to try some of Morocco's best dishes at a decent price. I'm talking kebabs, tagine, harira soup, and also couscous - but only on Fridays!
I was on a budget of £10-15 a day on my Morocco tour, and so I didn't have many sit-down meals, mostly street food - and I picked the right place for it! The street food is amazing!
But let's start with the one place I did stop to eat:
Restaurant Morisco
- What: Traditional Moroccan food
- Where: Chefchaouen's main square (map)
- How much: Between £3-4 for a decent-sized tagine
When in Rome, right?
Whilst you're backpacking Chefchaouen, you have to try some authentic Moroccan food!
I found this place whilst walking around, and hadn't checked any reviews beforehand. In Morocco, doing this is a total lucky dip. But this place is a winner! It's a touch over the odds to pay compared to a few other spots, but the food is solid (the beef tagine is great), and, well, the view from the roof is amazing. Aim to sit there.
This place won't blow your socks off, but it is a real nice place to sit and soak in the flavours of this fantastic country.
Also, if you're happy to pony up £2 for it, they do one of the nicest fresh-pressed apple juices I've ever had - and I grew up in Somerset, which is basically a huge orchard. Kudos.
Street Food
- What: Hot, fresh, cheap and delicious snacks for the road!
- Where: All over the place
- How much: Depends, but I got a big ol' kebab for under £2
Street food is all over the place in Morocco, and I talk about the things to look for in this article.
This follows the same trend. There's pastries, kebabs, and more to find. The kebabs in particular are a favourite among those backpacking Chefchaouen, and rightly so. Quick, cheap, and so expertly, fragrantly spiced that you'll go, "Mmmmmm" through the first mouthful? Sign me up!
Street food is the way to go for backpacking Chefchaouen on the cheap, and you won't struggle to find places. That age-old trick applies here too: eat where the locals eat! If there's a load of Moroccans grabbing lunch from one particular stand, it's cheap and it's good.
Get in on that action.
Where to Party Whilst Backpacking Chefchaouen
If you came to read this bit first; you're in the wrong town amigo!
Chefchaouen is not a party town. At all.
If chemical help is needed to unwind, by far the cheapest, easiest to get and most common is weed. Someone in your hostel will have it, or, if not, you can get some of one of the many friendly young guys that offer it to you as you wander round.
As for booze? The only place I know of where you'll find any pubs, clubs or bars in Morocco at all is in Marrakech - and Chefchaouen is not on that vibe. At all.
This is largely down to the fact that alcohol is not permitted under Islam, and therefore you'd be hard pushed to find it in a big city, let alone this small, rural town.
This was demonstrated well by me and some backpackers I met earlier that day, who offered me some wine they'd brought from Spain. We settled down, pulled out the bottle, and realised it was corked.
So we did the only obvious thing, and walked across half of Chefchaouen, repeating the word for 'corkscrew' in shit Arabic (that's 'almuftah', if you fancy trying the same stunt) to shopkeepers, who gave us looks that ranged from confusion to amusement. Eventually, we were rescued by a kindly hotel owner who overheard us and had one back at his place - presumably on-hand to cater for westerners in alcohol withdrawal.
A good hour or so later, we finally got to pour a glass and settle down for a good few hours of laughter.
And that's kind of how it goes here. Your evenings will be spent with people you meet, both backpackers and locals, taking life slow and shooting the shit.
As an aside, if those two Brighton dudes and Lebanese girl ever read this; thanks for the wine, and I hope your knackered Mercedes made it!
For me, this is exactly what backpacking is about. It's people. You spend time with people, trading stories and laughing, and 'Chaouen attracts those sort of like-minded people to it. I really, truly loved my evenings here. There's not many places I'd go back to, as there's still so much to see, but I'd come back here.
Is Backpacking Chefchaouen Safe?
Far and away, the closest most of you will come to 'trouble' is being offered pot.
It is still illegal (even though it's very tolerated), and there is potential to get into issues with the law if you're buying or in possession.
If this makes you uncomfortable, remember that you've done nothing wrong by being offered it, and a polite but firm 'No' will get dealers to leave you alone. They're more likely to get into trouble, and really don't want a scene.
I'm not about to walk you guys through the logistics of a drug deal, but if you are gonna buy some just don't be a dick about it and you'll be fine. Use discretion.
Other than that, there's not much to report. The sticky-fingered pickpockets covering the bigger cities are muuuuuch fewer here, and the lack of crowds makes it harder for someone to get close to you without being obvious. Again, use common sense and you'll be fine.
The medina is where you'll be spending most of your time, and there's no roads in any of Morocco's medinas, so you're spared from Morocco's erratic driving.
Be aware that many people selling you things will add the mysterious 'tourist tax' to their prices, so haggle well, and if something doesn't seem right, question it or leave it alone.
Beware when you leave: the driver of my (pre-paid) Supratours bus walked the length of the bus, and stopped at every white person and requested 10 dirhams for baggage. He made around £7 in 2 minutes. Tell him to do one.
The girls I met who were backpacking Chefchaouen all reported that they felt comfortable in the town, particularly compared to a lot of the bigger cities. A few were backpacking solo, and none reported any issues.
I talk in-depth on safety in Morocco on this blog, so if you're concerned, give it a read.
Honestly though, all told backpacking Chefchaouen is one of the safest places in all of Morocco. It's super chilled. You'll feel safe here.
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Overall, Chefchaouen and Merzouga were my two favourite cities in Morocco. Both are peaceful, chilled, and a world away from the chaos that so many describe when they talk about trips to Fes, Marrakach, and so on.
So that's it! If you've spent some time taking it slow in the mountains too, let us know what you thought!
And for those of you planning to backpack Chefchaouen, I hope this helped! If you have any questions, drop them in the comments, or shoot us a private message.
Take it easy!
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