Backpacking Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan, Indonesia - A Travel Guide

Last Updated: October 5, 2025

NEED THE ESSENTIALS FOR BACKPACKING NUSA LEMBONGAN AND CENINGAN NOW?

HOW TO GET HERE | WHERE TO STAY |ย THINGS TO DO |ย WHERE TO EATย | WHERE TO PARTY | STAYING SAFE

Reading Time: 21 minutes | Written by Greg

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Island Life is Paradise

Want the awesomeness of Bali without the commercial, tourist-y feel? You need to go backpacking Nusa Lembongan, and its baby bro, Nusa Ceningan!

Picture a big paradise island. It's plastered in nature, and its seas are filled with vibrant, exotic life. Now drop a few beach huts on it, a sunset that seems to go on forever, and a slow, bohemian pace. That's the Nusa Islands.

I was a tour guide in Bali for seven months. And when you're a tour guide in paradise, where do you go on your days off?

A better paradise.

Nusa.

This was my retreat whilst working in Bali. And now I want to share the insider information with you, so you can go backpacking Nusa Lembongan like a carefree pro. This guide has the beach hangouts, best burgers, and the bucket list ticks to make your time in Nusa the best it can be. It's time to enjoy Paradise 2.0!

Wanna join? Thought so! So let's go!

Backpacking Nusa Lembongan highlight - swimming with Matan ray
Bucket List: Tick!

What's Nusa Lembongan Like?

Chilled. Just chilled.

There's a feeling of serenity and relaxation. It's like no one has a schedule here.

As your boat crunches into the soft sand, you hop off, and your flip-flops (that's 'thongs' to our Aussie crowd!) hit the warm water.

Wade in and up the beach, and look around. It feels... remote. There'll be a train of guys passing your bags up the beach. It'd be chaotic if you didn't feel like everyone knewย exactly what they're doing.

Follow your bag to the main hut, and, where it stops, someone will ask you where you're staying. Let them know, and they'll point you to your golf cart, which will soon whisk you down Nusa's simple, wild-feeling gravel roads.

That's how it starts. And from there, your adventure backpacking Nusa Lembongan begins.

The golf carts are your first hint of how different Nusa is from mainland Bali. Nusa is like Bali, stripped back to the basics.

There's no busyness or rushing. No engines, no industry. It takes a while to notice the lack of noise. All you can hear is distant sea, slow, rustling breeze, and gentle chatter. It sounds happy.

As you explore, you'll find nothing is overdone. Everything feels rustic. Buildings blend into the background the way only stuff made from nature can. Nothing is perfect, ostentatious, or trying to be more than it is. It's rugged, raw, and real; and that just works here. It's effortlessly pretty.

That fresh feeling extends everywhere, from the waters you swim in, to the food you eat. All the food tastes vibrant, fresh and flavoursome. Nothing is overdone, it's all in balance. Just like the island.

You'll feel your pace of life slow down before long. No one is rushing, and there's no expectation that anything needs doing immediately, or even soon, really. You'll find carts and donkeys own the 'highways' here. They get the job done fast enough.

So what will you do with that extra time? Explore beaches and rocky outcrops, or dive the turquoise waters? See the mangroves that own the northeast, or behold the sunsets to the west? Whatever you choose, take it slow, enjoy the soft smell of salt in the air, and fall in love with backpacking Nusa Lembongan.

Backpacking Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan with sea breeze views in low tide
It's not perfect, but it's not trying to be!
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How To Get To Nusa Lembongan

Unless you're paying for a private heli or have gills, you're getting here by boat, amigo!

There aretwo main ports on Bali that'll get you to Nusa, and those are:

  • Sanur, to the south-east, who run quick shuttle boats, or
  • Padang Bai, to the north-east, who run less often on bigger, slower boats.

I'd recommend using Sanur to pretty much anyone who isn't working off a fierce hangover (it's a bit bouncy at times). There's a load of companies who run the shuttles, and the one I used was Sri Rejeki, run by a guy called Edi. They'll charge you 425K IDR, (just over ยฃ20) for a return.

Whoever you use you use or wherever you go from, they'll likely drop you off at Mushroom Beach, the main 'port' on Nusa Lembongan (but check this!).

If you're coming from Lombok or the Gili's, you'll probably come on the Eka Jaya fast boat from either Bangsal (in NW Lombok), or the main drop-off points (each island has only one, you'll see what I mean) on the Gilis. The drop-off point for these boats on Lembongan are at the Yellow Bridge, which we'll talk about later.

Eka Jaya did pretty much all my crossings between Bali and Lombok, and they're great. You're in safe hands.

If in doubt, check out Gili Transfers for crossings and times!

Timing your Trip

How long should you spend backpacking Nusa Lembongan?

Months and months. Why bother leaving paradise?

In seriousness, you could see and appreciate most of it in three days! But why do that? If you've got the time, live life at half-speed like the rest of the island, and take a week. You'll relax more, and appreciate more.

If you've come from Gili T, you may need longer!

The best time of year for backpacking Nusa Lembongan

The bottom line is avoid monsoon season (November to March). During this, the islands are a bit of a washout, and that picture-perfect sunset is masked by rainclouds. Same applies to the whole of Indonesia.

Otherwise, it's open season!

The weather is solid for the rest of the year. The Nusa Islands are never too crowded, with a steady stream coming and going at all times.

No matter the time of year, you also have a good chance at spotting the 'Influencers' in their natural habitat. Which is probably swarming the good WiFi at the Eco Deli!

Like bison at the watering hole...

Backpacking Nusa Lembongan provides so many sunset like this at Devil's Tear
Just another average sunset whilst backpacking Nusa Lembongan!
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Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking Nusa Lembongan

Because all the good things to do on Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan are so well spread, there is no one area that is the 'hot' place to stay.

Instead, there are merits to staying anywhere on the islands!

I will say that Nusa Cenangan is pretty small and it's easy to get to most of the good stuff. Therefore, I stayed on Lembongan (the bigger of the two) whenever I was here.

You'll find the famous Yellow Bridge connects the two, so you don't have to worry about transfers! You can't drive across it, only go on foot, but it does mean you don't have to pick one island over the other; you can explore both from one base!

Speaking of bases, here's our picks for where to stay when backpacking Nusa Lembongan:

Dream Beach Cottages

  • What: Cute, traditional Indonesian 'resort', with a stunning pool.
  • Where: Towards the west of Nusa Lembongan. A short walk to the Devil's Tears. (map)
  • Why: Amazing rooms, great hospitality, and calming aura. Did I mention that pool?
  • Why Not: Not the cheapest! But if you can swing it, there's not much wrong here.

The word that comes to mind when I think of Dream Beach Cottages is 'oasis'.

And after a day exploring this rather dusty, raw island; stepping into this lush, tree-lined sanctuary, with its low huts and that strikingly blue pool, I'm sure you'd agree.

It's superbly located, managing to be close to Dream Beach and the Devil's Tears. Also, a short walk through the trees will drop you out at Mushroom Beach and it's many, many bars and cafes. Yet, it's just far away enough from all of them that you feel a sense of splendid isolation.

Each of these huts offers a poolside veranda, and behind its double doors is housed a huge, wood-clad room. A dresser and wardrobe lines one wall, and smack in the middle lies a big ol', mega-comfy, double bed. And that's it.

"But Greg, what about a bathroom?!" I hear you cry!

Well, I'm glad you asked! Head out the back, and you'll find your own private, walled garden, open to the elements. An undercover sink is just by your back door, and the garden opens out beyond that. A shower juts out of the far corner, letting you wash in the Balinese sun whilst surrounded by greenery.

Continue round the corner, and you'll find the toilet of kings. A small roof covers this porcelain paradise, where you can sit to do your business whilst contemplating the Balinese luxury laid out before you.

To anyone who thinks this sounds odd, I ask you this: have you ever seen a shooting star whilst on the throne?

I have, and it was here. And that's worth the money on its own.

Dream Beach Huts

Backpacking Nusa Lembongan with views of Dream Beach Huts
  • What: Private complex of huts on stilts, right on the beach.
  • Where:ย Southwest of Nusa Lembongan overlooking Dream Beach. (map)
  • Why:ย Who doesn't love a beachfront hut? Pool, cafes and views everywhere!
  • Why Not: Again, not one for those of us on a super-tight budget.

Hidden away in the semi-circular cove of Dream Beach is a beautiful blend of building and nature. This is Dream Beach Huts.

It takes a moment to notice the buildings at all, actually. The whole resort is all organic shapes and materials, and flows from the beach to the hillside so effortlessly you wouldn't believe there's cafes, bars, and a two-tier swimming pool hidden within. It's very tastefully done, built to match its environment.

The main difference from Dream Beach Cottages is the livelier, more buzzy atmosphere. It's kinda got this all-inclusive holiday thing going on, but without actually being all-inclusive. It's where you'd go if you wanted two weeks of zero-effort paradise, home to a community that revolves around the pool, the beach, and the huge bar area, and everyone's here to chill.

Inside the private huts, you'll find another symphony in wood. Think big, open rooms, huge beds, and again, an outdoor bathroom. If the view at Dream Beach Cottages just wasn't inspiring you to do your business, try here!

It's not one for solitude, but if you're looking for somewhere where everything is on tap - and I mean the beach, bar, food, sunbeds, and everything else you need for a day soaking in the Balinese sun without lifting a finger - this is the place.

Further Accommodation

If you're used to our guides, you'll have noticed that there's no hostels mentioned here! To be honest, when I came here it was as a break from wrangling tour guests for weeks at a time, and I wanted some luxury away from it all - so hostels were not the one for me.

However, there are some amazing hostels on Hostelworld starting at around ยฃ5/night, whereas the fancier, private places I was in were closer to the ยฃ20/night camp. I'd been recommended the two I was suggested by a friend, otherwise, I'd probably have raided Airbnb for the perfect private escape.

Whatever your idea of paradise looks like when you're backpacking Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan, read up on how to find the ultimate accommodation anywhere in the world, and consult the holy trinity below. There'll be something perfect for you!

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Things to do when Backpacking Nusa Lembongan

Everything there is to do when backpacking Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan revolves around precisely two things: the sea; and the beach right next to it.

The rest of your time will be spent getting between sights. However, the whole island is so laid back, this is a joy in itself.

There is the option of golf buggies for quick transport, but they don't work like taxis - you can't just flag one down. You'll need it arranged via a restaurant, hotel, or activity provider instead, ahead of time (and that's if they have them!).

Otherwise, we're going on foot!

Luckily, most of the walks are achingly pretty, and relatively untroubled by lunatic drivers trying to mow you down! Plus, there's bars and cafes everywhere, so take it easy! Your walk is two hours? Stop for a few drinks on the way, budget three hours instead, and maybe grab one for the road. The slow walks should be part of your day!

As for where you're walking to? Well, this list is here to help!

Backpacking Nusa Lembongan: The Highlights

One: Avoid a Soaking at the Devil's Tears

Backpacking Nusa Lembongan at the Devil's Tear, another beauty spot
One of the quieter tears.
  • Why:ย To behold the power of nature! And also play chicken with it.
  • Where: On the rocky outcrop to the southwest of Nusa Lembongan. (map)
  • How long:ย There's two times to here - once in the day, once at sunset. Soak it in for an hour or so each time.
  • How much:ย Free!

There's not many beaches on the west coast. Instead, you'll find jagged rocks that just drop away into the incoming tide. Hidden within this rugged coastline, however, is a huge, tear-shaped pocket, fiercely carved byย Satan the sea.

First, you'll see the waves rolling in on the horizon. Then, you'll hear a roar worthy of the Devil himself as all that force is focussed into this pit, with nowhere left to go but up.

The good news is this barely-contained fury sends a ferocious spray into the air, that you can watch soak stupid tourists.

Which is hilarious.

This is a nifty place. Truly a fantastic piece of engineering by Mother Nature. But what's almost as impressive is watching people tentatively approach this pouring wet edge, which they've watched drench other people, and then act shocked when they, too, are bitch-slapped by Poseidon himself.

Incidentally, if you head here and take any videos or photos of you (or anyone, for that matter) getting soaked, please send them our way! We'd watch that shit all day!

What's not so well known about this place is that there's actually several of these tears nearby, each of which do the same thing, and are a lot less busy. If you face the main pit, which is next to the huts selling snacks and stuff, and head right around the headland for, like, three minutes, you'll find prettier, quieter tears.

The other good news is that this is one of my favourite spots when backpacking Nusa Lembongan to watch the sunset! Head back at around sundown with a couple of beers, and sit with the crowds to watch the show. Get here a little early for a good spot, as here's often around 30 people. Yet, as the sun dips below the horizon, there's a beautiful peace to be found. Everyone is united by the display.

Two: Relax on Dream Beach

Backpacking Nusa Lembongan at Dream Beach be on a swing
Dream Beach. Judge for yourself!
  • Why:ย It's just a really damn pretty beach, with some great snorkelling.
  • Where: On the Southwest of Nusa Lembongan, next to the Devil's Tears. (map)
  • How long:ย I'd take a day out to relax here - stay at Dream Beach Huts!
  • How much:ย Beach: free! Yay! Pina Colada: not free! Boo!

Right, I'll keep this one short. You all know what a beach is. And Dream Beach is a really nice one.

This is a crescent ribbon of sand tucked into an otherwise rocky cove. It's pretty, but probably not going to win a Miss Universe anytime soon. It does play host to a cafe and bar, though, so you can crash here all day with no stress.

What is a total winner is the rich, shallow waters. Stick on a snorkel, kick your way out to the vivid coral, and poke your head under the warm waves to find a world teeming with life. Tropical fish are abound, and, if you're lucky, you'll find a turtle or two basking in the warmth!

That's about it, really. There's only so much you can say about a lazy beach day!

Three: Cross the Yellow Bridge

Backpacking Nusa Lembongan, crossing the yellow bridge to Nusa Ceningan
  • Why:ย To get to the other side!
  • Where: On the south coast of Nusa Lembongan, leading to Nusa Ceningan. (map)
  • How long:ย About 30 metres.
  • How much:ย For you, my friend, the best price: free!

Again, keeping it short and punchy!

You'll have to head across this if you're flitting between Lembongan and Cenangan, and trust me, it's better than the swim.

This is actually pretty funky in its own way; it's got that obnoxious, bright paint thing that makes Lamborghinis look best in lime green. It's made a feature out of something that could be... well, just a bridge. And that's cool.

However, your ultimate aim here is to get over the thing, which can be easier said than done.

Whilst there are no cars on Nusa, there are a handful of motorbikes. And they all seem to gather here for the inaugural Nusa GP just as you're about to cross. Timing is key if you don't want to become part of the human skittle alley, so play it wisely!

It's worth the peril though, just to...

Four: Marvel at the Blue Lagoon

Backpacking Nusa Lembongan and Ceninganat the Blue Lagoon
  • Why: Because this has to be the blue-est Blue Lagoon out there.
  • Where: Over the Yellow Bridge, and head to the southwest end of Nusa Ceningan. (map)
  • How long: A half-hour, largely uphill walk from the Yellow Bridge, then another half-hour soaking it in. More if you're cliff-jumping.
  • How much:ย You may be spotting a theme here... Free!

Move over other 'Blue Lagoons', you all suck!

I think several of us have been promised a 'Blue Lagoon' or something similar, and when you get there, all you can think is, "...Is that it?"

Whereas here, you arrive, peer over the crest, and go, "Fuck me!"

Or at least I did!

This is a small, rocky cove, and I don't know what's special about it. Yet somehow, when the water passes the entrance, it transforms from the deep, ocean blue we all know, to an almost Disney-esque, pastelly turquoise.

What black magic makes this work? I have no idea, but it does. It sparkles and shimmers in the light, almost like it's giving off its own glow. You know those bioluminescent plankton that light up when you wave your hand through them? It's like that, but constant and effortless. You can stare, mesmerised at it, for ages. It's like gazing into fire.

When you can finally wrench your eyes away, I'd take the chance to clamber to the outcrop in the picture, and have a couple goes at the ancient and noble art of tossing your body off a cliff into the sea below. Obviously, check the depth first - usually by waiting for someone else to fall before you, and seeing if they survive. Kinda like a penguin.

If you don't fancy getting wet, you can wander the five minutes to Mahana Point, and soak yourself in beer instead.

Five: Snorkel with the Manta Ray

  • Why:ย Tick off that bucket liiiiiiist!
  • Where: Tours offered across the island - you can't miss 'em! I booked mine at the office outside TS Huts Lembongan, near Mushroom Beach. (map)
  • How long: Budget half a day.
  • How much:ย I paid 450K IDR (ยฃ25) for the entire half-day experience.

I freakin'ย loved this! I'll try to keep my excitement under control, but if you only do one thing whilst backpacking Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan, this is it!

Whilst you can snorkel and enjoy the waters off the coast of Lembongan and Ceningan (and you should!), your best chance of seeing mantas is off the coast of Nusa's third, largest, and up to now unmentioned island: Nusa Penida.

Our three snorkelling sites were off the northwest coast of Penida. The first two were in search of mantas - which we found - whilst the final spot was on a spectacular reef, swimming amongst the fish and the odd turtle. This was a half-day tour, but you can also pick up a full-day.

You'll hop aboard the boat, and in no time you'll be whisked out to sea, giving you a new perspective on these paradise islands. The whole tour has a real energy about it; everyone is excited by what lies ahead. Your guide will point out wildlife and landmarks as you go, before finally pulling up to the first site, and telling you to get your gear on.

It's time to see the mantas!

Once in the water, what hits you first is the anticipation. You know they're out there, but where? You can be under for half an hour searching until, without warning, a shadow appears in the distance, and out of the blue they come.

They're immense. Nothing prepares you for just how damn bigย they are! They fly gracefully through the water, with slow, lazy beats on their wings. They're not scared of you. They know they're bigger and faster, and can be gone as fast as they arrived. Instead, they choose to hang around with you, to put on a show. It's magical. It's surreal.

I'll never forget this. I've seen wild tigers in India; swum with Great Whites in Aus... and this is right there with them. It's one of my most spectacular wildlife encounters ever. Please do this.

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Where to Eat When Backpacking Nusa Lembongan

All restaurants and cafes on the Nusa Islands have the same sort of open-air, beachy, and bohemian vibe.

Being an island, it won't be a surprise that fresh fish features heavily on the menus, yet it doesn't dominate. There's plenty of room for the Bali classics like Nasi Goreng, Mie Goreng, and so on.

What's more surprising is the big selection of western food on offer - more so than on Bali. It's all incredibly fresh, and there seems to be an unspoken agreement that every meal should be an experience, not just food. It's all very artsy.

Speaking of, there's a big live music scene on the island, which is pretty entertaining because most of them are... crap. They sit comfortably in the 'so bad it's good' camp, so keep an open mind and you'll have a right laugh!

Another thing to mention is that if you book a restaurant, many of them will offer to pick you up and drop you off in one of their golf karts. If you want to do this, just call ahead, and your chariot may well appear!

Finally, no blog about Bali would be complete without mentioning the dreaded 'Bali Belly'. Assuming you're from the West, your system just isn't geared for Indonesian living, and most people get some form of, ahem, 'backlash' before they adjust. There's nothing to fear here! It sucks, but you'll get past it.

L. Good Bar and Grill

Backpacking Nusa Lembongan my starters as i enjoy a bite to eat at Lgood Bar and Grill
Not gonna win any awards for this one, I know. Soz!
  • What: Open-air hut serving a mosh pit of Western and Indonesian delights.
  • Where: Less than 5 minutes walk from Mushroom Beach. (map)
  • How much: Mains are somewhere around the 60-100K IDR (ยฃ3-5) mark.

Welcome to L. Good: undisputed king of shit music!

But somehow, it's still a great evening. I kept coming back!

I don't know how they managed it, really. Maybe it's the slick, open-to-the-world setting; or how the staff handled a packed out restaurant every night without missing a beat; or just the great food, which tasted like the chef actually cared. Maybe it's all three!

The setting and environment is probably the big winner here. There's a well-thought-out mix of natural materials, clever lighting, and immaculately cared for grounds that just makes this a really appealing place to be, as well as providing a welcome distraction from the tunes! I feel for the guy actually - it was always the same guy every time I was here, and I will say that he gave it everything. Unfortunately.

Basically, L. Good is the perfect spot to grab a solid meal and a few beers, before heading down for a night out on Mushroom Beach.

Oh, and book ahead, because it's pretty much always packed. Which has to be a good sign.

Sandy Bay Beach Club

Backpacking Nusa Lembongan meant this amazing burger with views at Sandy Beach Club
  • What: A posho beach club that does an absolutely incredible burger.
  • Where: West side of Nusa Lembongan, a short walk north of the Devil's Tears. (map)
  • How much: Burger, fries and a smoothie will set you back 190K IDR (ยฃ9.50-ish). (menu)

You've arrived at Nusa Santorini. Enjoy your stay!

Okay, I joke, but it does have that feel. The entire colour palette is that light wood, faded blue, and whitewash thing. It's all very... beachy.

There is a slightly bombastic, upbeat energy that picks you up as soon as you step in, with the music turned up just a touch above background level. In fact, everything feels like the quality has been turned up: the views, the comfort, the service, and, in particular, the food.

This burger is one of the best I've ever had, and I know a thing or two about burgers. It's a fresh, juicy slab of perfection. Grab it with the fries, and a big pot of whatever that amazing dipping sauce is. Pair with a fresh, tropical fruit juice, and take a pew looking over the azure waters with the sun on your back, and you're knocking on the door of paradise.

The catch? You're paying upbeat prices for this upbeat experience. Anywhere that calls itself a 'beach club' is gonna tack a premium onto your bill. It's not extortion, but, for Bali, a tenner for a burger, chips and drink is pretty damn steep.

If you're on a tight budget, this is undoubtedly a splurge. But if you can do it, this is a properly luxurious few hours!

Sea Breeze Ceningan

Backpacking Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan - a little trip to the sea breeze for a bite to eat
That, my friends, is a smoothie bowl!
  • What: A bizarre compilation of everything you've ever seen at a Balinese beach, plus they serve food!
  • Where: Just under 10 minutes walk from the Yellow Bridge, on the northwest coast of Nusa Ceningan. (map)
  • How much: Most meals will set you back 40-60K IDR (ยฃ2-3). That smoothie bowl was 50K.

This place is nuts. I think every time someone said, "Oh, you know what would be fun here..." they've gone with it. And it's gotten real out of hand.

Swings? Tick. Pool: Sure! Swim up bar? Why not. Hammocks? Order them! Beanbags: How many? Tyre swing? Just the one, please! Restaurant? Build another level! Wooden sculptures? Well, this isย Bali after all!

How about a boat on the roof?

...What?

Uh, boat... roof...?

...Okay, that's new. But go on then!

God knows what was going on here, but I love it! There's just so much joy in this eclectic collection of stuff that I had to come back again.

It's squarely aimed at backpackers, this one. It's got that vibrant hostel vibe going on, with the tunes up loud, and it just wants to make you smile.

The food is almost a sideshow, really. I mean, it's great! There's not much better than tucking into a big, colourful bowl of Balinese goodness, and I rate the smoothie bowls massively. But somehow, it's nowhere near as interesting as trying to figure out what the hell this place actually is!

In fact, I still don't know.

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Where to Party Whilst Backpacking Nusa Lembongan

I said earlier that everything you find when backpacking Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan revolves around the sea. This is no exception.

All your nights out are either gonna be at beach bars, beaches, or clifftops.

Not that there's anything wrong with that! It adds to Nusa's chilled feel. It's the sort of place where you'd grab a few beers on the beach, and if you have one too many, it's no biggie, but that's not the aim! It's about enjoying yourself, and forgetting that the world exists outside this island. If you wanna get on the sesh and try to bang everything that's not nailed down, you're better off on Gili T.

It's all actually kinda romantic here. You're miles away from any major civilisation, and it's quiet enough that if you want to find solitude, you can.

It also feels safe enough to walk home through the trees. There's nothing and no one that feels sketchy, and everyone stumbles safely home at the end of the night. Just don't fall off those clifftops!

Mahana Point

Whilst backpacking Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan we stopped for a quick drink with views at Mahan Point
  • What: Very basic, but totally great clifftop bar.
  • Where: Next to the Blue Lagoon on Nusa Ceningan. (map)

Walk through the art museum entrance, and... there's not much on the other side!

This is a stripped-back, spartan bar punching out ice-cold beers for the weary traveller. This means either those that have hiked to the Blue Lagoon nearby, or those who have taken a break from surfing the waves below.

When I say it's a clifftop bar, I meanย right on the cliff. The place even has a diving board, although you'll have to cough up a few rupiahs to have a go. There's a ten-metre board, and a five-metre for when you've had a few.

Or should that be the other way round?

Either way, this is a great afternoon spot to get the sun on your face, and nurse a nice, cold pint whilst watching the surfers do their thing.

Mamma Mia Bar and Grill

Backpacking Nusa Lembongan at a wonderfu beachfront bar
  • What:ย Playful, galley-style bar, with views to die for.
  • Where: South coast of Nusa Lembongan, halfway between Dream Beach and the Yellow Bridge. (map)

First up, the signs are a genius marketing tactic. The entire bar is covered with them, and once one catches your eye; they've got you. You stop to read a second, then a third, and eventually say, "Wanna grab a drink here?"

The bar is long and narrow, and when you mix that with the views out over the water, it feels like being on an old wooden ship.

If you're hungry, grab some food, but I can only vouch for the cocktails (and also the mocktails, best nursed gently on a particularly ferocious hangover).

It's never too busy, so your only duty is to park up by the window, pick your drink, and soak in the vista over the channel to Ceningan. It's a fun, friendly place. Enjoy it.

Mola Mola

  • What:ย Picturesque little beach bar.
  • Where: Tucked right into the western edge of Mushroom Beach, Lembongan (map)

This is a tiny little shack, nestled into the cliffside. It's so small that the tables spill out onto the sands, and it all makes the perfect spot to see the night in.

This place is really special. The incandescent glow falls out behind you as the night draws overhead, and you get lost in a dreamy, undisturbed haze. The evening is only punctuated by the wonderful staff offering a refill.

It's so dreamy, in fact, that we didn't realise that we had drunk our way through closing time. Instead of turfing us out, the staff sat on the table behind, quietly chatting amongst themselves until we noticed. Not one of them asked us to leave, or made us feel unwelcome. I have so much love for this little bar.

This truly is the perfect place to kick back after a long day of exploring. Grab some friends, and head to this quiet corner of gentle heaven.

Hai Bar and Grill

  • What:ย Large, open-sided beachfront restaurant throwing out great cocktails.
  • Where: On Dream Beach, Lembongan. Aim for the big, glowy thing. (map)

If you're strolling down Dream Beach after dark, you can't really miss this one.

It's a huge, organic-looking palm roof, all propped up on beams of bamboo. With warm light radiating into the night and tiki torches on the beach, it looks very inviting!

But then, I'm a sucker for beach torches.

Inside, it's casual but classy. There's a bunch of villas and a huge, beautiful pool out back, and this is the on-site restaurant for them. Whilst it doesn't have the small-time, personal touch some of the other bars on this list have, it also doesn't feel commercial. You'll pay a bit of a premium, but it's not too bad. You feel welcome.

I had a couple of cocktails and some beers, and easily lost hours here, before finally swaying back to the cottages.

And a word of warning on the cocktails; they're stealthy. Enjoy!

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Is Backpacking Nusa Lembongan Safe?

You'll find that everything's so chilled when you're backpacking Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan, that there's not much to worry about at all.

As with anywhere hot, make sure you've got some water on you if you're walking any decent distance, and especially if you don't know the route.

Otherwise, there's only three words of warning for you: bikes, cliffs, and currents.

The bikes (and occasionally golf karts) often aren't expecting people on the 'roads', so keep half an ear out for oncoming traffic. It's not frequent, but be aware, particularly at night.

Otherwise, the cliffs and currents work as a team! There are a load of unprotected drops, so be careful after dark, particularly if you've had a few. Remember, a lot of people backpacking Nusa Lembongan are here for the surf, and the waves can be substantial. If you fall or jump in, there's not always an easy way back out.

Otherwise, you're safe! The island is so laid back, no-one is really looking to hurt you, rob you, or scam you. The time I spent backpacking Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan was some of the most relaxed times I spent in Indonesia.

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Leave a comment

That's all, folks!

Turns out, it's actually quite hard writing a guide for paradise! When you're somewhere where everything is special, nothing stands out. Everything is heavenly, and if could live here for months, I probably would.

I hope this has been useful! If this helped you with your time backpacking Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan, let us know! We love to hear it!

Similarly, if you need a hand with anything, or think there's something we missed, drop it in the comments. After all, sharing is caring.

Whatever happens, I hope you love the Nusas as much as I did.

Take care!


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