The Tourist Guide to Jerusalem, Israel
Last Updated: April 22, 2023
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HOW TO GET HEREย | WHERE TO STAY |ย THINGS TO DO |ย WHERE TO EATย | WHERE TO PARTY | STAYING SAFE
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Walk in Ancient Times
Walk with me through the ancient and the new in this guide to Jerusalem, and experience the chaos within.
Whilst chaotic, you cannot help but feel like you're in the presence of something special. Religion, history and every face tell a story, and each wants to recount it their way.
I was fortunate enough to explore the city in January 2023, spending several nights on the outskirts of the old town. Now, I am here to share everything I discovered with you.
Throughout this guide to Jerusalem, you can expect to find all the best haunts for hummus, knafeh, wild nights and hidden bars. Similarly, I'll delve into the history of Jerusalem, visit the religious sights, spend time in the old city, Mount of Olives and take a sneak peek at the religion within.
It's going to be a hell of a ride. But a ride you'll want to take with me. Get your helmet on. Here goes...
What's Jerusalem Like?
Frankly, Jerusalem is as you'd expect it to look - bloody old.
Every inch of every building is decorated in a rugged, sandstone-looking, yellowy-white large blockwork known as Jerusalem Stone.
The old town is split into four quarters, the Christian Quarter, Armenian Quarter, Jewish Quarter and the largest, the Muslim Quarter. All are connected by a maze of pristine narrow streets, a wall of chatter and small shops selling everything from tourist items, rugs and clothes to fresh bread.
Large religious buildings sit proudly heading each zone, all fantastically decorated, dripping in wealth, vibrant colour and grandeur, whilst the smells of fresh juice, warm knafeh and shawarma fill the shiny and slippery streets. It is chaotic but in a controlled, almost military way.
You could easily get lost in here, and that isn't a bad thing. Although, it is best to have this helpful guide to Jerusalem, just in case.
Whilst outside the old walls, secret cocktail bars lie waiting to be discovered, and wild parties rage in the most unlikely locations. The streets are far more extensive and even have trams and cars. There's a more modern, contemporary vibe with all the big named brands taking up their spot.
Nevertheless, there is an edge to the city, one of underlying tension that you can cut with a knife. Unese feels the air as everyone persists in their day-to-day lives.
How To Get To Jerusalem
Being one of the most visited and influential cities, Jerusalem has excellent transport links with all the main tourist cities in the surrounding area, including Tel Aviv, Bethlehem and, importantly, the airport.
Once in Jerusalem, you will find two main transport hubs, the train station (Yitzhak Navon) to the west of the city, and the bus station (HaNevi'im Terminal), outside Damascus Gate, the northern entrance to the Old Town. Numerous trams and buses scurry between the two and the surrounding areas. However, you will need to use your Rav Kav.
If you do not pay for public transport, you risk getting a fine of around 180โช (ยฃ45).
Also, remember Shabbat will play a part in how you travel to and around Jerusalem.
Getting to Jerusalem
If you're coming from the west (Tel Aviv), you can take the train direct to Jerusalem's Yitzhak Navon station. From there, jump on a tram down to the old town or a few stops to the lively Machaneh Yehudah Market and Abraham Hostel.
There are several trains between the two, but the 761 stops twice in Tel Aviv and again at the airport, then runs direct, taking around twenty-five minutes.
If you are coming from Bethlehem, there are a few options.
Firstly, a taxi to the Palestinian border where you will have to get out, walk across the border and go through all the necessary checks. People who did this told me they felt intimidated and, at points, scared.
Secondly, the local bus, such as the 231. This bus takes a different route in and out of Palestine. Whilst it takes twice as long, I found other than a quick passport check on re-entering Israel, there were no harsh interrogations others faced. This service runs from Damascus Gate and drops you a twenty-minute walk (uphill) from the Church of Nativity at Beit Jala Road.
Your final option is to join a day tour from Jerusalem, visiting numerous sites in the Palestinian territories. I didn't do this, but you can pick them up in most hostels or hotels in Jerusalem.
Timing Your Trip
How Long Should You Spend In Jerusalem
In truth, Jerusalem is one of the most cultural, fascinating and unique cities in Israel. Therefore, I recommend you spend more time here than in the likes of Haifa or Tel Aviv.
Plus, you can easily visit the Dead Sea, Masada National Park, Hebron, Jericho and Bethlehem.
Hence, in this guide to Jerusalem, I suggest you spend forty per cent of your trip or four nights in Jerusalem.
The Best Time Of The Year For Visiting Jerusalem
Whilst Jerusalem is a year-round city, I'd suggest avoiding December, January and February. The weather is a little cold, and rains blow through rather frequently.
Plus, the old town is a death trap when wet. The floors are super slippery, and you need to be very careful.
Likewise, the Jerusalem stone and enclosed narrow walkways reflect the sun, and the heat ricochets through the streets. Therefore, the summer months would be almost unbearable.
The best time of the year to visit Jerusalem are April, May and June and then again in Autumn.
Where to Stay as a Tourist in Jerusalem
Being a massive tourist destination, there are many hostels, hotels and apartments throughout this vast city.
In reality, the best thing to do in Jerusalem is to choose a location. Then, narrow your search for the style of accommodation that best suits you and your needs.
Luckily, the city has numerous different areas, each with a unique vibe and style.
For example, Jerusalem can be loud and brash. Likewise, it can be quiet and respectful. Yet, it is always hilly.
Therefore, if you only want to explore the old town and don't have great mobility, you should stay in or immediately around it.
For those who want a bit of nightlife, I'd suggest the Knesset Yisrael area or somewhere around the Machaneh Yehudah Market.
Jerusalem is a mishmash of colliding worlds, and no matter what you're looking for, you'll find the accommodation to suit... and in the area that best resonates with you.
With that said, I'm very mobile, enjoy partying and exploring, and am a massive hostel fan. As a result, I decided to stay near the Machaneh Yehudah Market.
As always, I can and will only recommend places I've stayed at and would recommend. Therefore, I only have one recommendation for you, and it is...
Abraham Jerusalem
- What: Large hostel in a great location.
- Where: Next to the main tram stop at Davidka and around three minute's walk from the Machaneh Yehudah Market. (map)
- Why: Because they are well-priced, comfy and do a bang-up breakfast.
- Why Not: You like your own bedroom and creature comforts.
Usually, I'm a fan of small, cosy hostels where you can build a family bond with the other guest and staff alike.
However, what Abraham, Jerusalem has done here, is create that vibe on a vast scale.
The large reception, rooftop terrace and bar/kitchen areas are full of cosy seating areas arranged in a way that brings people together yet, leaves enough space for those that need a bit of downtime. There are also cosy corners and rooms with soft furnishings and tv, should you wish to relax.
The rooms are cosy and clean and come with a sink, a separate shower and a separate toilet. Although, each corridor has additional bathroom areas to spill out to should someone be, um, on the throne.
The staff are friendly and helpful and make you feel like you are part of the team. I love them!
Then, well, there's the free breakfast. Not only is there a vast choice, but each dish brings a flavour a hostel in the Middle East should, as well as a few home comforts.
If you are staying in Jerusalem, you should stay here at the Abraham, Jerusalem.
In January 2023, I paid ยฃ40.85 per night for two people.
Further Accommodation in Jerusalem, Israel
If you aren't a fan of my choice, I suggest checking one of the three links below, which will give you three very different experiences.
However, as discussed, the main thing to focus on is the location.
Additionally, if you stay within the old town, the chances are you will pay double, maybe triple that, of those staying just the other side of the wall in an equivalent standard of accommodation.
Best Things to Do as a Tourist in Jerusalem
Getting around Jerusalem is easy. Trams and buses crisscross the city, but you must have a Rav Kav card or the app to pay electronically. Whilst Jerusalem is small, I highly recommend using the buses and trams as the city is so hilly and trams are much more convenient.
Nevertheless, if you are in Jerusalem during Shabbat, you have to walk. The city shuts down, and public transport is a no-go.
Also, during Shabbat, avoid areas where orthodox Jewish families live. They're relatively obvious, as the roads usually have barriers across them. These communities have been known to harass, throw rocks and even spit at people who aren't fully covered or abiding by the standards they expect.
I spent four nights in Jerusalem, avoiding Shabbat, burning the candle at both ends to provide you with as much info as possible.
Having experienced everything I could in that time frame, I'm passing on what I consider to be the best of the best in this tourist guide to Jerusalem.
Here's the complete list:
- Go on A Free Walking Tour.
- Watch the Sunset at Mount of Olives.
- Take a Day Trip to the Dead Sea, Bethlehem or another city in Palestine.
- Party at Machaneh Yehudah Market.
- Experience the Western Wall and Temple Mount (Dome on the Rock).
- Visit the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Cathedral of St. James.
Go on a Free Walking Tour
- Why: You will learn more about the city than you would on your own.
- Where: I went with Abraham Tours meeting outside Jaffa Gate in the old town at 11am. (map)
- How long: Roughly two hours.
- How much: It's free! Although a tip is expected of at least 50โช (ยฃ12)pp.
I mention this in my overarching Israel and Palestine blog as one of the best things to do in Israel.
Why? Because Jerusalem is such a historical city and, of such significance, to Israel and Palestine, you would be missing out by not understanding it.
A walking tour will provide you with enough information to enhance your enjoyment of the city and understand its culture, its people and why passions run so high here.
Furthermore, you can visit all the fascinating locations, learn about them and go back to the places that interest you most when the tour has finished with all that information to hand.
Finally, you can learn your way around the maze, otherwise known as the old town.
Watch the Sunset at Mount of Olives
- Why: It's a magical scene as the sun dips behind the Old Town, and all the lights come on across the city.
- Where: At the lookout on the Mount of Olives. (map)
- How long: Spend as long as you like, but arrive at least thirty minutes before sunset.
- How much: Again, it's free. There is a theme to this tourist guide to Jerusalem hey.
I, like many, am a sucker for a good sunset, and whilst beach and palm trees are typically the best sunset backdrops, this is a close second.
Take some snacks and some drinks, grab your spot, set up your camera and relax as the sun turns the sky a hazy orangey, yellowy, pinky colour before disappearing directly behind the city.
Whilst that is impressive, the beauty comes from the shimmering city below as the haze thickens and the lights start to come on across the city. Greens and yellows light up the sky. Nevertheless, the masterpiece is the dome aloft Temple Mount that shimmers against the reflective sky.
Take a Day Trip to the Dead Sea, Bethlehem or another city in Palestine
- Why: Because Jerusalem is the perfect base to visit so many places that don't necessarily require an overnight stay.
- Where: Tricky, as it depends on which of the day trips, if any, you decide to take.
- How long: Budget a day, arriving back as the evening settles in.
- How much: Again, this depends on where and how you go. However, Bethlehem on a local bus will only cost 5.50โช each way.
Whilst most places deserve at least a night's stay, some don't need it. For example, they are so close to the place you're staying, or there isn't enough to entertain an overnight visit.
Jerusalem is located so close to the likes of the Dead Sea and Masada National Park, Jericho, Hebron and even Bethlehem. Many of which fit these categories.
Correspondingly, you will find numerous tours from Jerusalem to these areas of interest. Additionally, some companies cover two or three locations within the same day trip. In general, it depends on timings and prioritising where you want to see and what you want to do.
Although, if you prefer freedom rather than an organised tour, I highly suggest grabbing the local bus from the bus station to Bethlehem and the other cities
Party at Machaneh Yehudah Market
- Why: Because it's unexpected and complete chaos - but so much fun.
- Where: On Jaffa Street, a few minutes walk north of Davidka tram stop. (map)
- How long: Party hard and long into the early hours.
- How much: It depends on how pissed you want to get. However, alcohol in Israel is not cheap.
One thing you may not expect to find in a guide to Jerusalem is a wild party, but hey, I'm here to tell you about one.
By day, Machaneh Yehudah Market is a thriving and lively food market, and somewhere you have to grab a bite to eat. However, as the sun sets over Jerusalem, this vibrant and colourful market changes tac and becomes a raving lunatic asylum.
All the little bars that line the narrow walkways turn up the volume, pump out the beats, and ravers slowly climb onto the bars. Crowds gather, and mayhem ensues. Aubergines (eggplants) were flying overhead, and yes, I have the video if you want to see it.
Each bar blasts a different tune, a different style, and a different vibe. Yet the levels of crazy remain the same. It's unexpected in the heart of the Holy City.
Grab a thick wad of money and dive into the shots, spirits and beers, dance on the bars and crawl home in the early hours.
Experience the Western Wall and Temple Mount (Dome on the Rock)
- Why: Simple! It is one of the holiest sites in the world, and as a tourist, you have to see it.
- Where: Both are located in the east of the old town. (map)
- How long: Frankly, the Western Wall is a relaxing, calming moment, so you may want longer than you first think, say an hour. The Dome on the Rock opening times will dictate this.
- How much: The Wall and the Dome on the Rock are free to visit, but you will be searched upon entry.
This is a quick tourist guide to Jerusalem showing the highlights of this fascinating city, not a history lesson. Therefore, I am not going into depth about either the Western Wall or the Dome on the Rock.
That said, I advise you to go on the free walking tour to learn about the significance of these two locations before your visit. Admittedly, the tour doesn't go here - but it does talk about them. Alternatively, do some research first.
Significantly, these two sites are amongst the holiest and most religious sites in the world and have massive implications for the Muslim and Jewish people.
Even though they are both busy areas, you can feel the presence of calm, hope, love and a more prominent being.
There is a sense of serenity and peace in, what is, a divided city. I could have spent hours at the Western Wall. Sadly, however, I only spent about twenty minutes there. It was fascinating and enriching, and not being religious at all - I did feel a greater presence.
Must be experienced whilst visiting Jerusalem.
Visit the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Cathedral of St. James
- Why: Jerusalem is the Holy City, and churches are part of that experience.
- Where: There are numerous. Nevertheless, my favourites are the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (map) and St. James Cathedral Church (map).
- How long: Each church differs. It depends on what you want to see within each one. Bank on 35 minutes each for these two churches.
- How much: Again, the backpacker's dream, these tourist sites are free to visit.
Whilst there are many churches, synagogues and mosques across Jerusalem, I'm concentrating on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and St. James Cathedral Church.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
In the fourth century, St Helena, Constantine the Great's mother, declared the site as the spot where Jesus was crucified and, three days later, reborn.
Dedicated to this moment in history, a church was built and has been destroyed and rebuilt on numerous occasions. Inside the church, you will find the tombstone of Jesus Christ and what is believed to be the cross on which he died, now hidden within a lavish chapel.
Again, I am not religious, but it was an incredible experience, and I have to admit, the architecture and beauty of some of the rooms and stoneworks were sublime. Well worth a visit.
St. James Cathedral Church.
Located in the secretive world of the Armenian Quarter, this medieval church is only open once a day between 3pm and 3:30pm, allowing visitors to watch the procession.
Inside the chapel is a mass of candles and beautifully decorated Armenian tiles and architecture to match. However, there is more than looks here.
This stunning chapel plays host to a procession, where you can watch the monks pray and listen to the choir. It was one of my favourite places in Jerusalem and something you must see and hear for yourself. Magical.
Where to Eat in Jerusalem
Being a massive foodie, the food was something I was looking forward to exploring the most in the Middle East, and Jerusalem didn't let us down. The food here is blended from African, Middle Eastern and European flavours and create something extraordinary. Therefore, no guide to Jerusalem could be complete without giving you a taste of what to expect and providing recommendations from my favourite places to eat in the city.
Throughout the old town, you will find street foods and vendors rustling up homemade recipes from za-atar to halva, and they are all a must-try. Don't worry about weight gain. Just accept it. Weight can be lost, but experiencing good food cannot.
Finally, not once did I, or anyone with me, get any form of food poisoning or even thought we would. Jerusalem is an extremely-clean city. All the food I saw being cooked or baked appeared to be done with high food hygiene standards. So enjoy it.
Now, let's look into a few of my favourite food haunts and somewhere I would return to on my next visit.
Lina
- What: The Hummus experts.
- Where: Hidden within the maze of the old town, a few streets northeast of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.ย (map)
- How much: Three large hummus, a basket of bread and three drinks was 105โช (ยฃ25). Which, in Israel, is pretty darn good.
Tucked away from the madness of the Old Town, this family-run restaurant offers some of the best hummus in the city, if not the country.
Despite being a small establishment, Lina's flavours pack a punch with homemade, fresh, hand-ground hummus served alongside tasty flatbreads and freshly squeezed refreshing juice.
While there are a couple of other tasty treats, you shouldn't stray from the hummus. After all, it's why you're here and... it's what they're known for.
As a result, it does get busy. Therefore, if you are in Jerusalem during the high season, you may have to wait a while to be seated.
Confectionery Jafar
- What: Pastry and knafeh specialist!
- Where: In the Muslim Quarter on the main drag up to Damascus Gate.ย (map)
- How much: A knafeh will cost roughly between 50-60โช (ยฃ12-ยฃ14), but they're big enough for two people.
Granted, it's never going to win any awards for the best-looking place in Jerusalem or even the street. However, it's in the heart of the action and provides a taste unlike any other.
Large trays of tasty sweet knafeh line the left-hand side of the store, drawing you in like a kid at a cake shop window.
Sizzling in their trays and a smell to die for, you will want to try them all. To be sure you're not missing out, I advise you to do exactly that.
You will not find a better knafeh in Jerusalem.
Manou Bashouk
- What: Small, street food restaurant specialising in Lebanese food.
- Where: In the mayhem of Machaneh Yehudah Market. (map)
- How much: I had a large plate of food, sharing dips and a drink for 72โช (ยฃ17.11). Incredible value for Israel.
Again, we're looking at homemade family recipes in a small restaurant, but this time, of the Lebanese variety.
Flavourful, fresh and colourful dishes are the name of the game here in Manou Bashouk, and they don't skimp on the sizes either.
Beautifully presented delicious plates full of goodness in the middle of the magical market. From the north of Africa, through Israel and onto you. What's not to love?
ืืืืชื
- What: Street food, sit-down or takeaway, sandwich place.
- Where: Again, it's in the heart of the action at Machaneh Yehudah Market.ย (map)
- How much: If memory serves me right, these massive sandwiches only came in at 60โชย (ยฃ14.25) each!
If plates of beautifully crafted food were down the road in Manou Bashouk, here in ืืืืชื, I present you the perfectly crafted sandwich.
Again, to my delight, they aren't shy around portion sizes.
Cooked to order, these mouthwatering gigantic sandwiches come in a combination of different bread, including Challah, with fresh spices and herbs from the market. As can be seen, they are filled, and I mean filled, to the brim, with large chicken slices, pulled meats and drizzled in a secret homemade sauce.
I cannot emphasise this enough - you need to get one of these.
Eat ืืจื
- What: Kosher Restaurant with fantastic food to eat in or on the go.
- Where: Again, we're in the epic Machaneh Yehudah Market. (map)
- How much: As per the sandwich above, I think we paid around 60โช (ยฃ14.25) each.
As with most places I've mentioned in this tourist food guide to Jerusalem, Eat ืืจื is a small restaurant with banging flavours that would effortlessly fill a Michelin stared dish.
As shown above, I went for the magnificent, fun-filled shawarma.
In a word, Heavenly. Moist to the lips yet full of aromatic perfection and a treat for the tastebuds. I recommend it one hundred per cent.
However, they are famed for their cone of chicken - a crispy waffle cup filled with chicken.
No matter what you go for, I know you're in for a treat, and I'm jealous.
Where to Party as a Tourist in Jerusalem
I was not expecting a nightlife scene in Jerusalem at all.
How wrong was I? Whatever 'night-out' vibe you're looking for in Jerusalem, you will find it.
Once the night settles in, and you're out of the old town, bars, clubs, and markets come alive to the sound of rowdy, cheeky behaviour, and it's lit.
Everything from secretive upper-class cocktail bars to down-and-dirty market squares covers the city in a haze of blurred vision and everything else that comes with a few drinks.
Whilst wild nights lit up the streets, people's behaviour was on point every night. Not once was there a scuffle or a need for police. Everyone was very well-behaved. It felt very safe.
Regarding local brews, Israel distils several beers - some are located in the Jerusalem area. They wouldn't make it into my top ten, but they aren't too bad. However, a local tipple I did enjoy was arak, which I first tried in Indonesia. Israeli arak has a slight twist to it. Yet, it's just as potent and full of flavour.
With that said, here is my drinking guide to Jerusalem.
Gatsby Cocktail Room
- What: A Speakeasy - A hidden cocktail bar for those who know how to find it.
- Where: Kinda giving the game away if I tell you, isn't it... If you want to cheat, it's (map)
Hidden in plain sight. Yet, you will want to discover this decorative delight.
Cocktails are the name of the game, and class and elegance are what is expected and what is given. This 1920s gangster-style hangout is the perfect place for a first date, a group of tired backpackers or a drink with the family.
Whilst this may appear a pricy option compared to my other suggestion, and it is, it's completely worth it. Especially during two-for-one cocktails which we had a 6pm on a Tuesday.
Bursting with flavour and booze, these delightful cocktails will light you up, ready for a big night in Jerusalem.
Highly recommend a trip to the Gatsby Cocktail Bar.
Machaneh Yehudah Market
- What: Small market venue with lots of little bars that blast out amazing tunes throughout the night.
- Where: On Jaffa Street, a few minutes north of Davidka tram stop. (map)
Ok, this place has cropped up a lot in this tourist guide to Jerusalem, and there is a reason for that. It has the best nightlife, the best parties and some of the best food in the city.
It's a hive of activity and one you need to get involved in.
As the sun sets on this magnificent city, this market changes from a vibrant and colourful fruit and edibles market to a clusterfuck of mayhem, beats and boozed-up younger locals and tourists alike.
Numerous bars spit out tunes, each trying to outdo the other bars. Louder is better, or so it seems.
People dance through the packed streets, whilst those who can clamber onto the bars where they shake what their mumma gave-em. Life is crazy down here in the market, but it's a laugh non the less.
Whilst all the bars are no bigger than a shoe box, they all have individual personalities. Take your pick, dive in, and enjoy the mayhem that ensues.
Is Backpacking Jerusalem Safe?
So, whilst not pretty to write, no tourist guide to Jerusalem would be complete without a quick safety section. During early to mid-January 2023, I felt safe here. However, you can feel the tension. Numerous people of different faiths all live so closely together, plus its proximity to the West Bank does cause tensions.
After all, it is the Holy Land of more than one religion, and that's bound to boil over from time to time.
As proven when, within a week of leaving, numerous people were killed in separate incidents across the city. Likewise, there was an attack near tourist hotspots in November 2022. Times change almost hourly here, so if safety is your fundamental factor when travelling, this may not be the best place for you.
Furthermore, numerous reports say not to congregate in high-footfall areas. Yet, in Jerusalem, that is impossible. In reality, there are people everywhere. Although, in a bid for safer times, CCTV covers every inch of public space in the Old Town, and it's patrolled day and night by not-so-covert officers.
Terrorism is the greatest threat here in Jerusalem.
Although, on a lighter note, whilst the threat from terrorism is high, other crimes are relatively low, including aggressive drunken behaviour, muggings and pickpockets. I wasn't aware of anything that required the police.
Similarly, natural disasters are rare in Jerusalem, so that shouldn't be a factor in your decision.
So, my safety guide to Jerusalem advice is this; go at your own risk, but as long as you're vigilant, respectful, sensible and can read what's happening around you, you should have a perfectly safe, fun and enjoyable time in Jerusalem.
Leave a comment
I hope you've enjoyed my tourist guide to Jerusalem. We've walked through these ancient streets, drank in the most outrageous locations and taken in some of Israel's best scenery. Now, hopefully, I've inspired you to take your turn.
If you have found this tourist guide to Jerusalem helpful and have enjoyed the read, please let me know in the comments below. Likewise, if you feel I've missed something or think I'm wrong, I'd like to hear from you too. After all, I want to provide the best information possible.
In summary, whilst Jerusalem isn't cheap, it is somewhere you have to see. It is a bucket list tick. However, once you've done it, I don't think it's the kind of place you would need to return to again.
Finally, if you have any further questions, please, as always, feel free to DM me on Insta.
If you're backpacking Jerusalem, you may be interested in these nearby places...
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From beach walks to the best hummus in Israel, it has to be Tel Aviv.
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