Colombo, Sri Lanka - A Travel Guide
Last Updated: December 15, 2024
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HOW TO GET HERE | WHERE TO STAY | THINGS TO DO | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO PARTY | STAYING SAFE
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The Old and the New
Commonly described as the capital, Colombo is a vibrant city on the west coast of Sri Lanka. Over the years, Colombo has been a key strategic location for both empires and trading alike. That, in part, is thanks to its natural harbour to the northwest of the city.
Throughout Colombo, Sri Lanka, you'll discover a lot of history, bustling markets and a mix of cultural heritage. Over the years, the Dutch, the Portuguese and the English have left their mark on the city, and it's easy to see.
Furthermore, Colombo and the surrounding areas stand apart from other cities in Sri Lanka with modern-day skyscrapers and a busy city centre.
Colombo's proximity to the airport maintains a constant flow of tourists to the city. Which, in turn, paves the way for shopping centres, restaurants and grand hotels. That said the city still seems to be in the dark ages. To me, it appears dull, lifeless and merely surviving.
In this guide to Colombo, Sri Lanka we'll look at the best and the worst the city has to offer.
Likewise, we will dive into the best things to do in Colombo and the transport in and out of the city. Similarly, we will look at the best places to stay and my thoughts on Colombo's food and nightlife.
All this and more from my trip to Colombo in 2018.
What's Colombo, Sri Lanka Like?
Being the country's commercial centre, it's no surprise that Colombo is awash with noise, colour, movement and smells.
Tuk-tuks race through the streets, the markets sizzle and dazzle and the buildings add a facade of old, bold and colourful energy to the streets.
Colombo is creating a haven for history by regenerating and renovating the building's facades to what they would have looked like when they were first built.
However, they're also bringing in new, modern, glass-fronted skyscrapers that tower over the city. So far, the old and new merge well, but I fear for Colombo if this movement continues.
In many ways, it's very unlike the rest of Sri Lanka, in that there are these tall modern skyscrapers, shopping malls, and numerous worldwide branded shops and chain restaurants.
Similarly, parts of the city are vibrant and fun, traditional even, but they aren't what I'd describe as pretty. Colombo is somewhere you stop before the airport or as a quick welcome to Sri Lanka. It's not somewhere you fall in love with or stay for long.
It's unapologetically a city for those who work here, without the flare for tourism or nature. Other parts of Sri Lanka are more cultural, beautiful, at one with nature and far prettier.
How to Get to Colombo, Sri Lanka
Luckily, if you're visiting Colombo, Sri Lanka, the island's largest and busiest international airport is just up the road.
Therefore, if you're visiting Colombo from abroad, you only have a short bus or taxi ride.
However, arriving in Colombo from one of Sri Lanka's other major cities is not as easy.
With that said, let's look at your options.
How to get from Colombo Airport to Colombo
Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport is roughly twenty miles (thirty-two Kilometers) from the central district of Colombo.
Self-drive
If you're driving, the journey will take around forty minutes, once you have collected your car. However, one of the major issues with this is that many car rentals are not at the airport. Some will have a booth at the airport, some won't. Shop around, and find a company that brings the car to the airport to meet you.
Many companies offer a car and driver combo pack for a few days, weeks, months etc... If you want the freedom, but not the responsibility of driving, I highly recommend that.
Taxi
Taxis are the fastest way of getting from the airport to Colombo. Likewise, they're much quicker to sort than self-driving and more comfortable than the bus. However, they come at an additional price. Although, that's still only going to cost around 4000₨ (£10.80).
Public Transport
Getting to Colombo from the airport on public transport is relatively easy. Nevertheless, it will take you around one hour and fifty minutes. You can speed that time up, but it will mean taking numerous buses, getting on and off and it is a lot of faff to arrive half an hour earlier.
Hence, my advice is - if you're going to use public transport, you can take bus 265 from the 18th Mile Bus Stop, a few minutes walk north of the airport, or bus 187 from Katunayake Bus Stop, just to the south of the airport. This is, by far, the cheapest option at roughly 500₨ (£1.35).
How to Get to Colombo from Galle and the South
From Galle, you can take the train from Galle Railway Station which travels up the coast and takes roughly two and a half hours, ending at Colombo's Fort Railway Station. Your other, cheaper option is the bus, but it will take slightly longer and be less comfortable.
How to Get to Colombo from Kandy and Central Sri Lanka
Again, unless you are going to self-drive, the cheapest way of getting from Kandy is by taking the direct coach (the 001) from Kandy Goods Shed to Colombo Fort Bus Stop. The journey is not going to be fun. It will take just under four hours and cost 500₨ (£1.40).
Timing Your Trip
How Long Should You Spend Visiting Colombo, Sri Lanka?
Despite being the largest and most populated city in Sri Lanka, Colombo doesn't have tonnes of things to do. Likewise, if you're visiting Sri Lanka for the best food and culture, Colombo isn't for you.
That said, it is near the airport, which makes it the perfect place to start and end your trip.
I'd recommend a couple of nights in Colombo, three tops. Spend more time elsewhere, such as Galle, Ella or Kandy. They're far more interesting.
The Best Time Of The Year To Travel To Colombo, Sri Lanka
Peak tourist season in Colombo is from January to April. That's when the weather is at its best. However, this brings with it extra crowds and inflated prices.
Hence, my advice is to go in December, when you still get the warm weather without the rain, and just as importantly, without the crowds. Likewise, you can get away with May, just before the wet season arrives.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking Colombo
With its proximity to the airport, Colombo is not short on accommodation.
Colombo has a wealth of accommodation ranging from the glitz and glam to the damp and dreary. Likewise, it is well-spread throughout the city.
Notably, Colombo is unlike most cities, where accommodation within the centre demands higher prices. This doesn't appear to be the case, as prices remain fairly standard.
No matter where you base yourself, be it, the Dutch Quarter or the outer city, prices depend on quality, not location. That might be because cheap tuk-tuks can get you anywhere in Colombo fast, making the distance from the centre less of an issue.
Nevertheless, you can pick up some quality places for very little money.
Below is where I stayed, and highly recommend.
Moss Colombo
- What: A clean, warming hotel/hostel with large dorms and cosy private rooms.
- Where: On Bauddhaloka Mawatha, a fifteen-minute tuk-tuk ride (1 hour walk) south of the Dutch Quarter. (map)
- Why: Great prices and everything was clean, tidy and comfortable.
- Why Not: You want to stay in or around the Fort and Dutch Quarter.
Whilst out of the centre, Moss Colombo was very well located for several of Colombo's attractions.
Moss Colombo is a hostel/hotel combo, and normally I would roll my eyes at this. However, they have made it work fantastically.
The private hotel-styled rooms are fantastic, comfortable, spacious, quiet and well-presented. The cheaper dorm rooms are on the ground level in an almost excitable cave-type room, which I also loved.
The dorms have multiple showers and toilets, large lockers, and extremely comfortable bunk beds. Both the dorm and private rooms were exquisitely clean and tidy.
When it comes to the staff, the pleasantries keep on coming. They were so helpful, kind and friendly. They were true ambassadors for the hotel.
In conclusion, if I were to return to Colombo, I wouldn't look elsewhere, it was a superb few nights.
In August 2018, I paid 3282₨ £8.85 a night, for a dorm and a private room cost 10,550₨ (£28.46), a night. Prices do differ vastly depending on the season.
*** update *** Sadly, since Covid, Moss has permanently closed. However, I believe the complex is still there and has been taken over by aVana Resort. If you stay here, let me know your thoughts in the comments at the bottom of this Colombo travel guide.
Further Accommodation
Due to the sad news that Moss, Colombo has closed its doors, and not knowing exactly what the new company has changed, I am, as always, adding my trio of accommodation sites to the blog.
Below are the three powerhouse companies I used to explore Sri Lanka. Between them, I was always able to find somewhere to stay.
Here in Colombo, all three have plenty of options for accommodation in Colombo. All that's left for you to do is choose which one suits you best.
Obviously, if you don't mind sharing a dorm and prefer to spend money on good food and adventures then Hostelworld is for you.
However, if you want something a little more cosy and private, Booking.com is your man.
Finally, if you're looking to stay for a considerable amount of time and want a bit more space, then Airbnb are the team to choose.
Best Things to do when Visiting Colombo, Sri Lanka
Even though Colombo is a vibrant, busy, modern-day city in Sri Lanka, there is a distinct lack of things to do.
In truth, I found other cities had more culture and excitement within Sri Lanka.
Colombo, Sri Lanka is somewhere to acclimatise yourself to the Sri Lankan way of life.
Instead of things to do in Colombo, I should call it places to see in Colombo. Why? Well, there are plenty of beautiful buildings where the modern-day facades replicate the buildings of yesteryear.
I was so pleased to see the city and country's history being restored, rather than being demolished for modern-day-looking blocks of flats.
That said, I have come up with a few suggestions for things to do in Colombo, and they are...
Explore the Fort and Dutch Quarter
- Why: The Fort and the Dutch Quarter are historical landmarks and are among the most beautiful places in Colombo.
- Where: On the coast next to Port City and the harbours. (map)
- How long: This is where you should spend most of your time in Colombo. At least a day in and around the Fort.
- How much: Exploring the Fort and Dutch Hospital is free. However, shopping, food and beer will cost you.
In 1640 the Dutch colonised coastal areas of modern-day Sri Lanka.
Today, this legacy is still very much visible within the harbour area of Colombo. The wonderful Old Dutch Hospital and Fort is by far the most beautiful part of the city.
Nowadays the Dutch Quarter holds modern restaurants, bars and even spas.
Furthermore, the Dutch Quarter is one of the main shopping areas in the city, with all the top names. Its often cobbled streets are buzzing, and it's the place to be when darkness falls.
The main precinct comes complete with plentiful seating, under the delightful low historic tiled roof.
From time to time, the Dutch Quarter plays host to events within its wonderful streets, all held beneath the stunning backdrop of Dutch architecture.
In addition, it is the perfect place to find souvenirs for all your friends and family and of course, that shit shelf.
Haggle at the Markets in Colombo 11
- Why: Everyone needs that bit of crap for the shit shelf.
- Where: In Colombo 11, just east of the Dutch Quarter and Fort. (map)
- How long: An hour will suffice.
- How much: Depends on how good your haggling skills are and what you're buying.
I love a good market and was excited to explore the area hoping to pick up a bargain or two.
Within Colombo 11 are Aslam Market, Pettah Market and Pettah Floating Market, among others
In truth, it was hard to define where one market ended and another started. Every street seemed to be awash with stalls selling anything and everything. Parts of the market are undercover, but most are outside and lining the streets
Overall, I found the markets very disappointing and not at all what I'd expected. I didn't buy anything and made my way out of the lacklustre streets as soon as possible.
Others have loved the markets, so I felt I had to add them as one of the things to do in Colombo, Sri Lanka. If you've been please leave me a comment as I'm intrigued to hear your views.
Relax at One of Colombo's Sandy Beaches
- Why: Simple. After a few days in the city, you'll want a day to sit and unwind.
- Where: You have a choice, there are a few including the captivating Wellawatte Beach. (map)
- How long: Only you know that one. It depends on how long you're here, as there are other things I'd do before this.
- How much: A day of relaxing and paddling in the sea is free. Yeah, boy!
Along Colombo's coastline, numerous beaches appear and disappear with the tide. However, some survive 24/7 even on a high tide.
While I didn't visit all of Colombo's beaches, those I saw, appeared very clean and tidy. Furthermore, they were almost empty, which provided a nice relaxing spot.
Alongside some of the beaches, such as Wellawatte there were restaurants and bars which gave character to the sporadic palms and almost orangey sands.
Peace and serenity come to mind.
If I had more time in the city, I would have enjoyed many more hours relaxing away from the mayhem and madness.
Sadly though, I wasn't in Colombo to go to the beach. Plus, the South Coast beaches were world-class, so no matter how beautiful these were, they couldn't match them.
Learn About Sri Lanka at the National Museum
- Why: Because you should learn about a place when you explore it.
- Where: Just south of Viharamahadevi Park, on Museum Drive, where else? (map)
- How long: A good hour and a half should do the trick.
- How much: A very worthwhile 1000₨ (£2.70).
Colombo is awash with museums, some of which, such as the National Museum are grand in stature. Others are petite and shall I say niche.
The National Museum is the extravagant centrepiece of a wonderful green area of Colombo. The large open spaces are home to some of Colombo's most impressive buildings such as universities, grand halls, galleries, theatres and museums showcasing sports, arts, shows and history.
I didn't have time to explore them all, but I think the grounds are magnificent and are worth seeing.
As for the museum, it is, as expected, a walkthrough of Colombo's, and Sri Lanka's past and present.
The museum is separated into numerous areas that cover differing periods of history, rulers and people, and Sri Lankan wildlife.
Overall, the National Museum is a treasure trove of artefacts and one of the most interesting and best things to do in Colombo
Where to Eat When Visiting Colombo, Sri Lanka
As you can imagine, there's a wealth of restaurants here in Colombo, Sri Lanka.
No matter your budget, you will find it here. That said, honestly, I found it very hard to find good food.
If the chips are down, I usually whack out Google Maps and look for the top-rated restaurants, then check out the reviews. That way, I know what the vibes are like, and find somewhere that suits me. However, I couldn't even rely on that here. The reviews seriously didn't match the food qualities.
Similarly, don't commit the backpacker's sin of asking a tuk-tuk driver to take you to their favourite restaurant. We stupidly did that, and we found the food overpriced, the staff rude and arrogant and the meal very disappointing, even if, the tuk-tuk driver walked away with a tip.
Which reminds me. We found that the food in Colombo was a lot pricier than in the rest of Sri Lanka. If you're after the best food and good value foods, get out of Colombo.
Hence, I gave up and ate at little cafes in and around the Old Dutch Hospital, such as Jave Cafe. Which I couldn't fault, it was pleasant.
Nevertheless, it wasn't what I had hoped and it was very unlike the rest of Sri Lanka.
In fact, I'm sad to say this is the only time in Sri Lanka that I'm not placing the Far Out name on any restaurant recommendations in Colombo. This could change when I return, and I really hope it does.
Where to Party when Visiting Colombo, Sri Lanka
In the interest of fairness, I'm seriously lacking advice regarding wild nights out and parties in Colombo.
I wasn't here to party or drink. I was here to uncover the history and culture my grandfather encountered during World War II.
However, I did walk around the city late into the evenings, and nowhere was 'buzzing' or 'kicking off'.
That said, there are many different types of nightlife out there, you merely have to find it.
Colombo is a large city and the nightlife is spread throughout. Nevertheless, if you search hard enough, Colombo has everything from chill with a cocktail or pint in hand to large clubs where the music booms out into the early hours.
TapHouse by RNR
- What: A lively and fun restaurant bar.
- Where: Adjacent to the Old Dutch Hospital in the main precinct. (map)
The romantic vibes and fun atmosphere greet you before you enter this gully-styled bar.
Outside, the concrete tables and chairs don the cobbled streets below the exquisitely designed sloping tiled roofs. All of which shimmer in the changing lights that guide you in.
Inside, the enchanting wood and stone take over from the concrete and cobbles providing a sleek vibe to the Taphouse, and I found it relaxing and enjoyable. On a weekend the live music brings a whole new wonderful ambience to the Taphouse.
Sadly, I cannot comment on the food, but that too looked and smelt delicious.
I had a couple of beers, which were smooth and cold on a hot day exploring the city.
Highly recommend a visit to the Taphouse RNR here in Colombo.
Is Colombo, Sri Lanka Safe?
Overall, yes, Colombo, Sri Lanka is safe for tourists.
When it comes to crime, especially violent crimes, and then add in the concept of tourists being the victim, those stats are incredibly low.
Colombo is the largest city in Sri Lanka and, within the tourist areas, there are always people milling about. Hence, you are very unlikely to be alone. Therefore, criminals tend to stay away.
However, if you set foot outside of the more touristy areas of Colombo, the chances, whilst still low, do increase. Likewise, walking alone at night will increase your risk of being a victim of crime. As with any major city you don't know well, the advice in Colombo is to stay in groups and still to well-lit areas.
Taking precautions in Colombo will mean a safer experience in the city.
The majority of crimes you read about crime in Colombo involve local protesters and terrorism.
Firstly, the protesters are not there for you. They are there to make their point to authorities. Colombo has the most protests in Sri Lanka, but tourists rarely get caught up.
Secondly, terrorism. Around fifteen-plus years ago the Tamil Tigers were a Sri Lankan group classed as terrorists, and they did cause mass casualties including tourists.
However, that seems to have been quashed and whilst the advice still is to stay away from large groups and be vigilant of terrorism, it isn't something you need to worry about as much in 2024.
Regarding natural disasters, Colombo's biggest risk is flooding. However, compared to other parts of Sri Lanka, Colombo's list of natural disasters that carry a real threat to life is low.
Leave a Comment
Thanks for reading my travel guide to Colombo, Sri Lanka.
Hopefully, I've given you an insight into the city and what to expect. Likewise, I hope you've learnt a few tricks to help you make the most of your time here, and shown you the best things to do in Colombo.
If I'm honest, Colombo wasn't the best place I've visited in Sri Lanka, and I don't expect it will be yours. That said, as you're likely to fly in and out of the airport a short drive north, I'd recommend it for a night or two when you land or before you fly out.
Furthermore, if you're visiting Colombo and would like to know more, please ask me anything via the comments below or Instagram.
All that's left to say is please leave any comments about either my Colombo travel guide or Colombo itself in the comments section below. I love to hear about your experiences in the places I've visited and your thoughts about my blog.
Good or bad, all comments are welcome.
Cheers!
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During World War II, my grandfather was based here in Colombo. Whilst he managed to explore epic places, like Kandy and Galle, this was his home. I was here to explore his old base and see the city he called home.
The plan was to walk the roads he walked and dive into the streets and stories he once told.
Having a few days in the city meant I was able to find all the locations from his photos. I even managed to find and sat on statues he once sat and took in the views he once saw 72 years prior.