New York City, U.S.A - A Travel Guide
Last Updated: October 24, 2021
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ABOUT NEW YORK | SHOULD I GO? | WHAT TO DO | WHERE TO STAY | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO PARTY
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City of Dreams
New York City. Where do you even begin writing about the city of dreams?
Found on the east coast of the USA, New York City is almost certainly the most recognisable, iconic and famous city in the world.
Home to Central Park, the Empire State, Broadway, Time Square, Wall Street, the Statue of Liberty, Grand Central Station... the list goes on and on. It has been immortalised in countless films, songs, books, TV shows and photos, and I'd wager that most of the world knows the name. It's an amazing place to travel to, if your budget is up to it. The magic of New York is that behind all the landmarks, the city pulses constantly with energy. Above anywhere I've ever been before, New York feels truly alive.
In Manhattan in particular, the streets are rammed with traffic and people, you can hear the subway pounding away below your feet whilst overhead skyscrapers tower to incredible heights and the plane trails criss-cross the sky.
All this is to say - it's damn busy.
The feeling of having so much around, above and below you is electrifying. I fell in love in seconds.
Now - a quick geography lesson. If you don't care and want that sweet, sweet travel talk, skip on down to the next section.
Still here? Okay, so to get an idea of NYC's layout, the Hudson River lies to the west of the city, running north to south, and forms the boundary between New York and New Jersey states.
On the New York side of the Hudson, you will find the long and thin Manhattan island, with the Harlem river forking off the Hudson on the northern edge. On the other side of the Harlem River, you will find the Bronx borough.
East of Manhattan and the Bronx, you will find the imaginatively named East River, which separates two more boroughs, with Queens to the north and Brooklyn to the south.
The island that holds these two boroughs also stretches off further east, called Long Island. Long Island is not a borough of New York City, but is often mistaken as one.
Finally, Staten Island is off to the south-west of Brooklyn and Manhattan.
My First Bucket List Tick
Around the time I met Greg, he inspired me to write a bucket list. On that list, among many things, was to stand atop the Empire State Building and look down at the Manhattan skyline.
Armed with my new bucket list and a need to start ticking things off, I looked for my first adventure.
Through work I got discounts with all kinds of companies, including a local travel agent, who offered return flights to New York and 4 nights accommodation for just over £800. Bargain, I thought at the time.
I know now, as with most travel, it can be done way cheaper than this if you sort things yourself, which is what we advise you do.
Regardless, without hesitation me and girlfriend at the time booked the leave from work, booked the flights, and come November 2015, we touched down at JFK.
It was my first go at actually exploring somewhere instead of just pitching up at a resort and drinking cocktails for 2 weeks. We were excited and hit the ground running with a big ol' itinerary.
And so followed five of the busiest days of my life!
Greg and I have a belief that you can experience the essence of a city and get to know whether it's for you in five days. This has proved true for so many cities I've visited.
In New York, five days barely lets you explore Manhattan. It's crazy.
We managed to tick off almost all of our planned itinerary, but it was all in Manhattan. Therefore, this guide will be very Manhattan-focused. When we go back (and we will, and spend longer there), we will update this with more on
the other boroughs.
So Should I go there?
Absolutely, totally, categorically 100% yes.
There is so much here, and I truly believe something for everyone. If you're the sort of person that loves the energy of cities, this is one of the best in the world and you'd be a fool to give it a pass.
Likewise, if you're like me and love the buzzing city energy and exploring, but need some time to yourself to relax and recharge, the green spaces in NYC are fantastic, tranquil, and beautifully maintained.
Even the most die-hard, city-dodging nature lover will find something for them in this urban jungle. Even the world's fastest animal has chosen to make a home here - the Peregrine Falcon.
It is one of the pinnacles of the western world, and the excitement of seeing place after place after place that you've known your entire life in the flesh is amazing.
What to do when Backpacking New York City
Again, where to begin? Manhattan alone is so densely packed with sights and things to do. Also, this is based on my 5-day speed tour, so it's got a lot of the cliche touristy stuff. Go make a drink and get comfy, it's gonna be a long one...
The Empire State Building
The iconic Empire State towers over mid-Manhattan, and the views from the top let you get a real idea of the geography of the city, so I suggest you start here your first morning and get the full daytime view.
Head up to the 86th floor observatory, and pass on the 102nd floor one - I personally didn't go up to the 102nd floor but by many accounts it's more cramped and more expensive, and the view from the 86th floor lets you see the whole of Manhattan perfectly anyway, so why bother? You can see from Central Park to the downtown Manhattan skyline and beyond, with other sights like the Brooklyn Bridge and the Chrysler building jumping out.
Tickets are a complete shambles. Prices vary wildly, so if you know you're going then shop around online as it's cheaper to buy in advance. The official price is $38 for an adult, and I appreciate that is a chunk of cash, and whether it's worth it depends entirely on your circumstances. If you're visiting on a holiday or 'flashpacking', then hit it up, it's worth every penny (or rather, cent). If you're backpacking on a tight budget, that's several nights food and board in some parts of the world. No right or wrong here, it's your call and your money.
Beware the touts outside that will try and sell you tickets for $50 or even higher, throwing in things like 'express passes' and so on.
Times Square
This one is nice and easy. Just pitch up and admire the fact you're stood on a film set. The advertising boards and banners are best seen at night, where the billboards really pop against the darkness, and street artists and entertainers are everywhere all the time.
There isn't actually much to do here, it's really just a busy shopping square, lined with restaurants and shops. All of the stores here are 'flagship' stores and are worth looking around if shopping is your bag, but my advice is pitch up, enjoy the views, take a few photos and head onwards. After all, there's plenty to see!
5th Avenue
A stroll down 'the most expensive street in the world' is a sight to behold. The architecture is massive, regal and very elegant, and flagship stores drip from the walls.
The section between 49th and 57th holds the prestigious main shopping district, including Louis Vuitton, Tiffany (yes, that one, from the films and songs), and a gigantic Apple store, where you can watch some hilariously over-enthusiastic salespeople swarm customers as they step across the threshold. It's not all designer stuff either, Gap, H&M and Zara can be found here as well if you like your clothes under a four-figure price tag.
The main shops are a few blocks east from Times Square, and if you're here, it's a good chance to check out the Rockefeller Center as well! Keep heading south to get to the museums and the New York Public Library.
Broadway
Home of theatre and show business for the last hundred years, the electric chaos of Broadway can be felt just by walking past the entrance doors. If there's a hit show anywhere, it'll make its way to Broadway before long.
By day, the theatres don't look anything too special. You'll see the name of the shows and maybe some excitement if there's a matinée performance, but otherwise, it just looks... normal.
Come back at night though and the lights shine bright, the muffled sounds of song and laughter beat through the old walls and the place is truly alive. Full disclosure: I never went to see a show here, but hand on heart I can say I haven't heard a single person I know say they didn't enjoy it when they went.
The name 'Broadway' is actually a bit misleading: Broadway is the long road that cuts diagonally through a large chunk of mid- and south Manhattan, and most of it is actually fairly bland. The 'Broadway' that you imagine when you hear the word is actually referring to the Theater District, which is a group of blocks roughly between 6th and 8th Avenue and 40th and 54th Streets, making a rough square that actually incorporates Times Square as well.
The atmosphere in these few blocks is electric: we went out late, got up early, and there was always a buzz here.
Grand Central
Again, this is another icon that got me all excited when I saw that clock and that staircase from the dozens of films I'd seen. It feels weird walking into something you recognise as a movie set and finding inside an actual, genuine, fully-functional train station, complete with the ever-grumpy New York commuters.
It's a well-named building - 'grand' is definitely the word I'd use to describe the cavernous hall. And in case you were in doubt where you were, the biggest flag I've ever seen hangs above the thousands that pass through every day. God bless America.
After a little while in the hall though, you realise that, aside from the familiarity from Western media, it's really just a train station and not that exciting by itself.
This is where I recommend you head downstairs to the gigantic food court that sits below the main hall to grab something to eat and drink. Home to stacks of independent stalls serving all kinds of cuisines (and across all price ranges, be warned that the fancy sushi platter you're eyeing up may cost the same as a small car), it's a perfect place to grab a break from all the walking and freshen up.
Whilst down here, be sure to take the time to appreciate the architecture. Even things as simple as the signposts have been mounted into gorgeous, ornate carved stonework. It's stunning.
Macys
Fair warning: you'll either love it here or hate it. Fundamentally, it's just a shop. But bigger. Much bigger.
It's the second largest department store in the world, and as you walk in you will see how time can just melt away as you explore. It's bigger than it has any need to really be, with 11 floors holding a ridiculous 1.25 million square feet of retail space!
You can buy pretty much anything here, it's like if Amazon had a shop. Wander around and you'll be met by salespeople from brands you've never heard of, selling you stuff you didn't know you wanted until they told you, you did. It's a shopaholics dream. Personally? I hated it.
It's just too much. Too blingy, too flashy, too vulgar. You could get lost for days wandering this gigantic maze of capitalism, and on your way you'll find everything that's ever gone missing in the whole world, also trying to find it's way out. Atlantis is in there, next to homeware. Missing plane? Just past menswear. I saw Shergar walking around next to the TVs.
Rockefeller Center
Whilst not as iconic as some of the other skyscrapers in NYC, the Rock has a couple of things going for it.
Number one: it's a bit cheaper than a trip up the Empire State. Prices vary, but the Rock is usually cheaper.
Number two: you get to see the Empire State as part of the New York skyline. When you're on the ES, there's a feeling of something being missing, and it's because you're standing on it. Not a problem here! You get the view downtown with the ES front and centre. The alternative is standing on the ES and looking north at the Rock. The words of Karl Pilkington ring true again: "I'd rather live in a cave with a view of a palace than live in a palace with a view of a cave".
Number three: one of the best views in New York can actually be enjoyed by going for a drink and bite to eat at Bar SixtyFive at the Rock. Save yourself the entry fee, accept, you're on floor 75 and not the top floor (floor 80), and spend the money on something tangible! Maybe it's even a bucket list tick: drink a Manhattan in Manhattan.
The Public Library (seriously)
Now, I know at this point some of you are looking at this and wondering if I should be writing a travel blog at all, but hear me out with this one.
The main New York Public Library (the Steven A. Schwarzman Building) is found on 5th Avenue, by the intersection with 42nd Street. You can't miss it. This monstrous building has huge lion statues outside, and is one of the most impressive and imposing buildings in the city. Massive stone columns set you in mind of old Greek or Roman temples, and the grandeur continues as you venture inside.
You will find beautiful stonework, stained wood bookshelves, and an incredible amount of space waiting for you. There's grand staircases, ceiling frescos and a feeling of reality and opulence inside. It's truly surprising, and free to enter! Walking in here feels historic, and a walk around the famous halls and reading rooms is both relaxing and impressive.
Try and get on one of the free tours if you can!
One World trade center
Time now for a more sobering look at the city. One World Trade Center stands defiant above the rest of the downtown Manhattan skyline. Alongside it lay two fountains, one each built in the space that held the foundations of the original World Trade Center twin towers.
Most of the Western world knows what happened here in 2001, where two hijacked planes were flown into the towers in the name of religion. It has the highest death toll of any single terrorist attack in history. At the perimeter of the two simple fountains, a plaque runs its way around, bearing each of the names of the 2,996 deceased. On the birthday of the dead, a single white rose is placed in their name on the memorial.
The fountains are simple, elegant and tranquil. The new tower holds an observation deck and many offices. A museum dedicated to the disaster lies at the base, with some very humbling exhibits. Although, at $26 for a basic admission ticket, one does wonder just how American it is to charge so much to those wishing to pay their respects.
I won't say too much more, you'll know if you feel this is somewhere you should come.
Statue of liberty
Unless you've grown up in a government lab deep underground (in which case please leave us a message in the comments!) you will know this one.
First impressions? It's a lot smaller than you think. I've spoken with a few people about this and I think people see it as a landmark up there with the Empire State in terms of fame, so therefore it must be massive. Wrong.
With that in mind, I wouldn't recommend going to stand at the base. You won't get a clear view of it because you're too close. I suggest a boat.
You could get a boat tour around Ellis Island to have a good nose at the statue, but I advise getting the totally free Staten Island ferry from South Manhattan. You'll go sailing straight past the statue on your way, and it won't cost you a cent. You've then also got the opportunity to explore Staten Island if you wish (we took one look and headed back to Manhattan).
Central Park
In the middle of all the concrete, steel and people lies a beautiful, simple square of green. You can't really miss it, one look at a map or scan from the top of the skyscrapers will show a large, conspicuous lack of buildings, roads, and chaos, bang in central Manhattan. This is Central Park.
When I thought about Central Park, I pictured a few fields. I knew it had a lake and some horse carriages, but apart from that, I expected just a bland slab of grass. Because of this, I didn't bother heading to CP until my 2nd to last day in New York.
I arrived and was shocked to find not a field, but a beautiful rolling landscape, with paths flowing past trees that were rich with autumn colour. The terrain dived and changed, with paths taking you past rocky outcrops, into small groves and past some beautiful expanses of water.
You truly can escape the chaos of the city here. A trip to the park to relax and recuperate is something I heartily recommend. You can escape the city and feel close to nature, right until you look above the treeline and find skyscrapers peering back at you. The clash of city and nature is surreal.
I highly recommend visiting and just walking around. There are signs giving you details about the park and its history. If the romance of a horse and carriage ride is for you, then now's your chance - beware though, it is expensive. The zoo is also here, but there are zoos all over the world, and we prefer seeing animals in the wild anyway. Plus, you're in New York, appreciate what's unique here!
Also, regardless of the politics, one of the things I'd really suggest if visiting around the winter months is the Wollman Ice Rink in the south-east corner and getting your skates on! It is owned by one Mr Donald Trump, and that could make or break the deal for many, but skimming over the ice, surrounded by trees and the towers of New York tucked just behind felt like something out of a movie.
Overall, what really struck me was the fact that in New York City, home of the American stock market, Wall Street, and western capitalism as a whole, this huge expanse of land hadn't been sold and turned into blocks of towers and shops. It instead has been nurtured and left to flourish into this mature, gorgeous space of tranquility, providing a welcome break in the centre of the city. The land must be worth billions, and to see it protected and kept pure is really special. It was the biggest shock of the trip for me, and one of the things I enjoyed and appreciated the most about this remarkable city.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking New York City
In a city as manic as New York, I must say that where you stay doesn't really make that much difference. You wake up, shower, leave and return 15 hours later, flop into bed exhausted and do it again. Find a hotel that's not falling apart and you'll do alright. There are even a few hostel-style places across the different boroughs, although we haven't stayed in them so can't recommend anywhere in particular - as always, check Hostelworld
That said, I can heartily recommend the hotel I stayed at: The Redbury.
Just round the corner from the Empire State, this well located little place offered a supremely comfortable bed, stylish decor, and a huge shower. The staff were polite and helpful, the room immaculate and the minibar extortionate. So much so that even though it was the only place in the city we had a ready supply of alcohol (being under 21 at the time), we decided to stay sober instead of paying through the nose for a miniature of Jack.
Where to Eat When Backpacking New York City
There are more restaurants here than most could ever find time to try. Whatever your taste, theres something for you here. Here are some of my favourite picks:
Katz' Deli.
I rave about this place to anyone who will listen. Just go and get the pastrami on rye. I'm locked in a long-standing battle with Greg as to what the world's best sandwich is. I reckon here, he thinks Ike's Place in San Fran takes it.
Found in downtown Manhattan, this amazing deli spends a month straight nursing their pastrami, taking it from just a cut of beef to a slice of meat so good you'd believe it was taken directly from the plate of Jesus.
Head on in and you'll be given a ticket. This ticket is then given to whoever serves you and they write your order on the ticket. You then present this ticket that the till on the way out to pay your bill. Simple and effective.
Make sure to drop a dollar in the tip jar whilst the staff are prepping your sandwich: they'll cut off an extra slice of meat for you to eat while you wait.
Remember: pastrami on rye. I recommend the extra pickles.
Bubba Gump Shrimp Co
Yes, it's a massive cliche and the locals will probably judge you for it, but the fact remains this place is one of the coolest movie/food tie-ins ever, and sometimes going to town on a gigantic tub of shrimp (or prawns, on our side of the pond) is the exact dinner you need.
Found smack on Times Square, you can soak up the atmosphere of the Square before heading in and scoffing literal buckets of delicious prawns. There's some really nice touches here, like the bench from the film, the food is good, staff are eager and considerate and the atmosphere is very comfortable.
A proper diner breakfast
This is a case of "when in Rome". I went to the Brooklyn Diner and can heartily recommend the pancake mountain they serve there. This was one of the classic American things that I wanted to tick off and they were delicious. Beware American portions, they're massive.
This is a place to sit, drink filter coffee and have your pancakes, eggs over-easy or a slice of pie and reflect on what it's like to be living the American dream.
Where to Drink and Party when Backpacking New York City
As I've touched on, I was under the USA drinking age on my visit, and so this is tragically empty of my own recommendations. In fact, the only place I can recommend for drinks is economy class with Virgin Atlantic, heading from JFK to London. The very understanding cabin crew provided me with 2 bottles of whisky after immediately take off, and life felt a bit more normal after that.
What you need to blend in
- A few dollars handy for tips
- Some good walking shoes - the steps rack up!
- To be okay with swearing at anyone who bumps into you