O'ahu Hawaii, U.S.A - A Travel Guide

Last Updated: February 25, 2026

NEED THE ESSENTIALS FOR BACKPACKING O'AHU NOW?

Reading Time: 14 minutes | Written by Greg

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The 50th Aloha

Whilst many think of Hawaii as being relatively small and comprising of a handful of islands, there are actually 137 separate islands that call Hawaii home.

O’ahu is also the 3^rd largest of the islands and houses the state's capital city of Honolulu. O’ahu is perhaps best known for being the scene of the Japanese attack in Pearl Harbour on December 7^th 1941, and now home to the iconic monument that watches over the USS Arizona and those who lost their lives that day. The island has also played major roles in a number of film and TV series, from Hawaii Five-0 to Forgetting Sarah Marshall, as well as the blockbuster Jurassic Park.

The volcanic island is a hit with tourists for Waikiki Beach, Diamond Head and the beautiful northern shores that host a leg of the World Surf League.

O’ahu is also a great place for the keen hikers, with a number of volcanic ridges making for tough climbs and exhausting stairways, such as ‘Stairway to Heaven’ located in the Ko’olau Mountains. If this is your reason for visiting the island, make sure you research the laws and the trail first. You could be doing the trail illegally, and therefore subject to a large fine.

Far Out in O'ahu

We spent just over 10 days travelling this dream holiday destination, moving around the island getting glimpses from land, sea, and air. Whilst Hawaii has never been high on my bucket list, despite the hype, we wanted to see why it appeared so high on the list for the majority of those we spoke to.

The bulk of our time we based ourselves in the capital city of Honolulu, hiring out a Mustang for the duration of the trip (that beat our bog-standard hire car in California during our Route 1 trip from Los Angeles to San Francisco!) This is really recommended when on the island - the island is only small but having your own transport is crucial. It gives you the freedom to visit the whole island at your leisure, as you will not want to be stuck in one place.

Whilst we enjoyed the beaches, exploring the city and walking to the peak of Diamond Head in the south, we felt it was all about the North’s natural beauty and endless beaches. The north was far less developed, and that gave way to stupendous volcanic ridges covered in greenery, leading down to the golden uninterrupted beaches.

The three highlights of our time in O’ahu have to be visiting Pearl Harbour on the anniversary of the attack and speaking to the survivors who were able to tell their stories of that day. The second was a helicopter ride over the island, stopping off on some of the highest ridges (which you can only get to via helicopter or climbing gear) to survey the island from just below the clouds. The third and final highlight was a very dangerous ridge walk up above the clouds, hiking the path no wider than me at points, with a steep drop into the unknown below the clouds. Of course, this ended in a little naked photoshoot, looking down at the clouds below.

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Should I Go There?

You have to really, don't you?

I have only been to one island in Hawaii, and yes, it is the most populated, busiest and most developed, but I can only judge what I’ve seen and what I thought. Those thoughts are that yes, in parts it truly is striking and has some unbelievable scenery, and it does make you feel great, energetic and takes your breath away from time to time.

However, it’s not all as good as I had hoped. The south has a lot of issues with litter, homelessness, crime and a lack of beauty. I couldn’t work out why Waikiki was as truly loved as it was, and it did make me question what was it about Hawaii? Why is it so high on people's bucket list?

For the answer, I had to look into my bucket list, and on there was ‘surf in Hawaii and see Pearl Harbour'. So I’ve come to the conclusion that for me Hawaii itself isn’t the dream, it’s what you want to do here. I wanted to surf here, after watching and hearing so much about the country's amazing surf. As for Pearl Harbour, I love history and finding out the tales of the past.

Maybe this is the same for others; they hear about the amazing stories and want to go and experience them for themselves. Normally people don’t inform you of the bad things. I mean, no one is going to feel sorry for you if you say “I’ve been to Hawaii, and didn’t think it was all that good”.

Having said all of this, and knowing there are many other islands I'd imagine are far more natural and beautiful than O’ahu within Hawaii, I would still recommend O'ahu. I just know what it’s like going somewhere expecting paradise, and finding the place cannot meet those expectations.

The north of O’ahu makes up for the lacklustre south though. The walks along the ridges are magnificent, and the helicopter tours and Pearl Harbour are a once in a lifetime experience. All of this more than makes up for a bit of litter and the less-than-impressive Waikiki beach. I would come back to Hawaii but would come to see the other islands; O’ahu would be a little stopover.

What to do when Backpacking O'ahu

There is more than enough to keep you occupied on the island for a good week to 10 days, that is if you can tear yourself from the golden northern beaches and the great barrel waves that crash on their shoreline.

It's more a case of where do I start with things to do, but it’s only fitting to start in one place, and that has to be the remarkable Pearl Harbour.

Pearl Harbour

Pearl Harbour is the scene of one of the defining moments during World War II, when the Japanese took the Americans by surprise by pounding the harbour from the depths of the ocean and from the skies above. Nowadays, the harbour is the number one tourist destination on the island, and at its heart is a striking monument to those who lost their lives defending the islands. Not only is this a monument, but a fascinating insight into history.

The site has a number of informative areas, covering the build-up to the attack, the attack itself, and how it prompted America to enter the war. It really is a fitting tribute and a very interesting way of learning about the island's darkest days. All this for about $32 (£25), and that gets you into a number of the attractions within the site too. This is totally worth it, and a really moving day.

Diamond Head

Diamond Head is a small volcanic ridge in the south-east of the island, and whilst now you are able to walk to the top, it was once used as a fortified base. Still today you can walk through the tunnels within the crater and into the bunkers dug deep into its sides.

The walk from the bus stop near the base of the volcanic ridge to the top and back to the bus stop again took me about an hour and a half. That included enough time at the peak to admire the views out to sea, check out the bunkers and just imagine what it must have been like during times of war. You also have great views over the capital to the west which looks much better from here than when you are in the city itself.

Surfing in Hawaii

I have always wanted to give surfing a go in Hawaii and having lived in Australia for a year I felt it was time to put the experience to use on the waves here on Hawaii’s shores. During our time here the World Surf League was in town and had taken over the northern beaches. This meant we stuck to the south, we surfed off Waikiki Beach, and we did have a good time, the waves just weren’t up to it at all. I am sure it was just a bad time to surf but I was left disappointed.

The north, however, looked amazing, but there was no way my skill level could have coped with those waves. I am confident of getting up and riding to the shore, but these waves demanded much more than that. If you can surf, the north is an incredible surf zone. Avoid the south, it gets a little crowded and it’s full of swimmers and countless other watersports. If you are a learner then the waves in the south are a great place to learn the basics.

Hiking

O’ahu has some absolutely gorgeous scenery, and the best way to see it from the ground is to just put on some walking shoes and get stuck into it. There are so many trails that crisscross the island, all at different levels of fitness. All you have to do is chose the right trail that matches your ability. Some of the trails can be very dangerous due to not having barriers stopping you from falling down the sheer edges and plummeting through the clouds. The best advice we can give is research the best trail for you, ask around and check the weather prior to climbing: slippery rocks could be a killer at those heights.

During our hike on the Olomai Trail one of the security guys told us last week a fireman had died climbing to the peak. He slipped and fell through the clouds to his death. It was only when we got to the top that we could see how easy it was to fall; we had to pull ourselves up ropes left by previous climbers to scramble up the final rocks to the very top.

Helicopter Rides

This is my number one best memory of O’ahu, and of Hawaii. This deserves more of a write up than a quick paragraph, so we wrote a dedicated post all about it. This was a once in a lifetime and unexpected treat, dreamed up and booked only a couple of days prior to take off.

Never did I think for a second that when I arrived on the island I would tour it in a helicopter, and tick the heli ride off my bucket list. Everything was superb, the company we used was called Paradise Helicopters, and I highly suggest you check them out should this be your idea of fun. The 'Magnum' ride costs around $350 (£275 per person), other tours and flights are available with differing price ranges.

Waimea Valley

On the north of the island, this delightful little valley is known for its history, colourful and striking flowers, gardens, trees and lakes. Entrance is about $17 (£13.30) and opens from 9 A.M to 5 P.M every day. Not only is this a striking area, but it holds high significance with the Hawaiian population. The area links back to some of the oldest monarchs, and holds a number of buildings and artefacts from those time periods. The lakes and waterfalls are well worth half a day, and the onsite restaurant is a great place to relax after walking the grounds. A great way to spend a day.

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Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking O'ahu

During our trip, we were mainly based in Honolulu, where we stayed at the Polynesian Hostel Beach Club. This was very basic but provided us with a great location, and they had some of the cheapest rates in town. The rooms each had their own bathrooms which were nice, but again, like the rooms, they were bog-standard and basic.

The hostel does put on a free breakfast down in the courtyard, out the rear of the building. The breakfast comprises of pancakes and as much maple syrup as you like, and that is a really nice touch. They also put on a number of tours should you wish to make friends around the hostel. If you have a few of you staying at the hostel and have access to transport, I would suggest using that. If you do not have transport or are looking to see the island without much effort, these tours are perfect for you.

They also cover a lot of the main attractions on the island. Overall I would probably look to book there again should I return to O’ahu. That is unless I suddenly came into a bit of money, then I would look to upgrade. However for the budget, I was on, and I would like to think I am a fairly normal traveller in that respect, it was perfectly acceptable. This can cost from about $30 upwards per night (£23).

During our trip to the north of the island, we stayed in a lovely little place called Kuilima Estates East in Turtle Bay. Whilst I know Kuilima Estates East own a lot of the properties and have their own website, we found this one through AirBnB and a guy called Jason. Furthermore, it was half the price of the Estates website which felt like a win.

Whilst it was only small, it was perfect. We had our own bedroom, bathroom and a little area to cook should we wish to. The bed was the comfiest bed I had slept on since I left home a year and a bit prior, which should be enough to say how amazing this condo was. The location was also perfect, only a short 10-minute walk from the main hotel, restaurants, Paradise Helicopters, as well as a couple of stunning beaches. Whilst the cost was a little higher than down south, occasionally it’s worth it and that really is the case here.

There are also a number of other options around the island, from the main hotel in Turtle Bay, but you could be looking at $350 per night or more. Perfect for honeymoons and or short holidays, unfortunately not so much for travellers or those on a prolonged trip. The south has a lot of hostels and hotels at a much more affordable rate.

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Where to Eat When Backpacking O'ahu

On the island of O'ahu, there is plenty of choices when it comes to food. I got very fat in only 10 days here and that in part was thanks to the luscious food. There was everything from the Cheesecake Factory to a number of scrummy burger joints (one I will mention below), it really is a foodies dream.

The first place I am going to talk about is somewhere we ended up eating a lot. It is called Cheeseburger in Paradise. You find out how they get their name the second you take that first bite. I had not tasted anything like it before, and still to-date I haven't since, and I so crave that sweet sensation once again. The majority of the food here is a burger, chicken wings, fries etc. so if that isn’t your thing you may want to try elsewhere. But before you do, I urge you to consider this as a one-off.

The settings are also great, whilst very, very American. There are TV screens on every wall, all showing the different sports going on around the world. The atmosphere is great and the staff are out of this world. We had a great bond with a couple of them by the time we left the island, and it was really nice to be made to feel like a local on the other side of the world. The food was beyond anything we had expected, there wasn’t one bad meal, and every bite was little taste of heaven.

This is also the scene of my only Man v Food failed eating challenge. I tried and came so close, but the sheer amount of food just beat me, and the clock ran down too quick. I really didn’t care too much, it was worth every bite.

Next, and located just off Waikiki Bay, this was not a bad time to experience my first ever Cheesecake Factory. I had always heard of them but never been. Naively I thought they only did cheesecake (not that that would have stopped me, I love cheesecake). It turns out they have a full-on lunch and evening menu, and wow was it amazing. I had a beautiful chicken carbonara followed by a delicious New York cheesecake.

I left the restaurant feeling very full but very satisfied. The tastes were exquisite and it was not my last time in a Cheesecake Factory. Highly recommend this place for a good meal. It can get very busy, so it is best to book, or you could end up like us and have to walk around for an hour with a flash box to let you know when your table is ready.

If you are after a small, quick bite on the go or small lunch, but with the taste of a restaurant, then give Waikiki Grass Shack a try. It is located on the pavement between Waikiki beach and the road. They do all the hotdogs and quick ‘on the move’ foods. I had a pulled pork sandwich and it was beautiful. Yes it was expensive, and I probably could have eaten a full meal for the same price, over $11 (£8.60), but it really was mouth-watering.

If something a little odd is more you then you may want to try a place called ‘Eggs and Things Waikiki Beach’. This strange little place gets busy so again it could be best to phone ahead and book. I personally couldn’t see why, but hey, you cannot please everyone. We didn’t book ahead and ended up waiting in a queue down the steps, with one waitress booking people in, the other waiter taking orders for how you like your steak. We hadn’t even gone in and it was already weird.

Once inside it was no different, it was all very odd. I don’t think the experience was helped by being shoved in the corner of the bar with our backs to the restaurant, or that they didn’t serve alcohol. The steak was enchanting and I really enjoyed the food, the only thing I couldn’t get used to was it was all served on plastic plates, cutlery and plastic cups. Overall not great, but the food made up for the rest of the disappointment. It was just all very odd, but somewhere I felt I should mention.

During our time in Turtle Bay on the northern shores, we ate at the hotel resort, the food was good and not too badly priced if I am honest. We ate at a couple of the onsite restaurants, huts and grills out next to the rocky shoreline. The views were stunning and we had a really enjoyable time up there. The waiters and waitresses were extremely friendly and fun and really looked after us. Everything about the place was just lovely, there isn’t anything I could really fault, excellent all-round service, food and costing.

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Where to Drink and Party when Backpacking O'ahu

On the north of the island once again we either drank in our condo or within the hotel bars, relaxing watching the waves crash up over the rocky boundary of the hotel. The drinks are a little bit pricey but that’s to be expected at the end of the day, it’s a luxury hotel and in a dream location. Not to mention also a film set.

Down on the south coast, the prices are a lot cheaper, and there’s a variety of different establishments. We mostly drank at the beachfront bars and restaurants where we ate. The Cheeseburger in Paradise was always busy, and a great place for a beer. I mean who doesn’t enjoy a cold beer, views out over the setting sun, palm trees and multiple screens of sports from around the world? Once it shuts at midnight you have a few options, there seems to be a good mix of places only a short walk away on Lewers Street including Moose’s and O’Neils. Not too far from there is an English-styled pub called In Between Waikiki.

There are all the big names here, Hard Rock included, so whilst maybe clubbing is off the cards, from what I could see, there are plenty of bars to relax and throw back some cocktails, beers and mixers.