Yala National Park and Tissamaharama: The Wild Side of Sri Lanka
Last Updated: June 23, 2026
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HOW TO GET HERE | WHERE TO STAY | THINGS TO DO |Â WHERE TO EAT| WHERE TO PARTY | STAYING SAFE
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Wild Sri Lanka
Welcome to Yala National Park, where some of the best scenery in Sri Lanka awaits. While not the largest of Sri Lanka's National Parks, it is the most visited, and it's easy to see why.
Forty-four mammals and over two hundred bird species call Yala National Park home. Some of its more famous residents include the endangered Sri Lankan elephant and leopards. The park also holds numerous fish, reptiles, amphibians and invertebrates.
However, as you'll discover, this success has come at a price, and that is overcrowding.
Large swathes of Yala National Park are left wild and human-free, but new parts are opening to help ease the overcrowding.
In this travel guide to Yala National Park and Tissamaharama, I will show you what to expect, where to stay, where to eat, and even find you somewhere to grab a beer.
All this and more from my experience in August 2018.
What's Yala National Park and Tissamaharama Like?
Yala National Park
Depending on the time of year, Yala National Park is an ever-changing landscape.
During the wet seasons, the vast 378 square miles of designated park is a green oasis with water pooling in every direction. No matter which direction you look, a hundred shades of green carpet the grasslands sprinkled with colourful wildflowers. The trees soar in all shapes and sizes with a lush and dark green canopy.
Giant beasts roam, whilst predatory cats camouflage in the long grasses and shrubs. Colourful birds play and sing in the treetops and the sky above changes quicker than the British weather.
You can stand and hear nothing but the rain and the calls from elephants, monkeys, bears and buffalo. Occassionally, there is an unmistakable roar and the shriek of deer scattering through the trees.
It's paradise until the millions of trucks race side by side in search of the Leopard.
During the dry arid months, the greens fade to orange and the dirt tracks turn from muddy orange to a dusty red. The sky is a picture of blue and the animals become more visible without the leafy foliage. Likewise, the marshlands retreat to barren red lands with the occasional tufts of grass.
It's still beautiful but in a very different way.
Whatever the time of year, the one constant is the pure white sands that divide the clear warm Indian Ocean and the jungle. These beaches are some of the best in the world.
Tissamaharama
In contrast to Yala National Park, Tissamaharama is a small, traditional and busy Sri Lankan town.
While green and leafy, with trees towering over the buildings and roads, it's messy, noisy, and traditional once off the main road.
Tuk-tuk's and bikes race around, horns sound constantly and I couldn't describe it as pretty.
Almost every building appears flimsy and dirty, covered in an orange tinge. Billboards shroud the streets above, whilst market stalls dot the uneven pavements.
When the fumes of the bikes and tuk-tuks subside the smell of fresh food wafts from street-side cafes while smoke pours from the bbq's and kitchens over the tin-like sheds.
Tissamaharama is not somewhere I'd rush back to, even if it is traditional in every sense of the word.
How to get to Yala National Park
The National Park Museum and the main entrance to Yala National Park are to the southwest of the park, near the coast.
Numerous little towns and villages surround that corner of the park. One of the biggest is Tissamaharama, a thirty minutes drive away.
Effectively, many of the towns around here, including Tissamaharama are the gateway to Yala National Park. Once here, getting into the park is easy. You will either be picked up from your accommodation or the staff at your accommodation will also be your safari driver and guide.
Therefore, the real question is, how do I get to Tissamaharama?
Ultimately, the short answer is to hire a car or tuk-tuk and drive yourself. Driving in Sri Lanka is appalling and at times, horrifying, but that is the quickest way to get around the country.
The other option, but no less scary, is to hire someone to take you. As I say in all my Sri Lanka blogs, if you shout loud enough that you need to get somewhere, you will have people throwing themselves at you. Everyone is a driver and can take you now, later, tomorrow, whenever you want to go.
If those two options aren't for you, travelling around Sri Lanka on public transport is a slow and painful experience. For example; it would take roughly two hours to drive from Galle, whereas public transport would take about five and a bit hours. The further out you are, the more that time gap increases.
Most people visit Yala National Park and Tissamaharama from, the airport, Colombo, Ella or Galle.
How to get from the Airport/ Colombo to Tissamaharama
Buckle up, you're in for the long haul.
From the airport take the number 265 Bus to Colombo Central Bus Stand.
Once in Colombo, you have numerous options. Sadly, none of them are going to be quick. Depending on the time of day and the route, journeys to Tissamaharama can take six to twelve hours.
One of the quickest routes is the Colombo to Matara Expressway. Jump aboard at Colombo Fort next to the floating market, and change at Matara on the south coast where you'll board the 331, which takes you to the heart of Tissamaharama.
Other good options are the EX32 or EX12 which also departs from Colombo Fort, going straight through, or stopping at Matara.
How to get from Galle to Tissamaharama
From Galle, things are a little quicker.
From the Galle Bus Stand just opposite the cricket ground, you can jump aboard the Colombo to Matara Express and then from Matara pick up the 331 into Tissamaharama.
However, the simplest option is to jump on the number 32 bus from Galle Bus Stand to Tissamaharama.
How to get from Ella to Tissamahrama
What would take a couple of hours in a car will take around eight, nine, ten or more hours on public transport. Why would you?
But if you do, you need a lift to Kumbalwela Junction, a short ride west of Ella.
Once there, jump aboard bus 99 and head in the wrong direction for roughly three hours or so to Moragahayata. Cross the road and change buses onto the 98 to Thanamalwila. At the bus station board the number 003 or 035 to Weerawila Junction where you get your final bus, the 331 to Tissamaharama.
Enjoy that!
Timing Your Trip
How Long Should You Spend Visiting Yala National Park and Tissamaharama?
Besides going on Safari, there is little to do in and around Tissamaharama. In truth, if it weren't for the safari in Yala National Park, I'd say don't bother.
Nevertheless, you will be thrown around on the back of a jeep all day, so you might be thankful you either a) had a good night's sleep locally beforehand, and b) aren't back on the road to your next destination after. Instead, you can go out for a nice meal and an early night.
Hence, I suggest staying the night before the safari and the night after your safari. If you're doing a two-day safari, you'll want three nights.
The Best Time Of The Year To Travel To Yala National Park and Tissamaharama
As with many places, there is no point in getting soaked in sideways rain, caught in storms and not seeing the animals. After all, it's the reason you came to Yala National Park.
Therefore, the best time of year to visit Yala National Park and the surrounding towns is between February and July. Visiting between those months means you're more likely to see the animals and stay drier (although February and April can be wet).
Where to Stay For Your Visit to Yala National Park
Due to Yala being a National Park, the accommodation tends to be within the surrounding towns, such as Tissamaharama.
That said, there are a few places to stay in Yala National Park.
Unfortunately, I didn't stay in these locations. Nevertheless, I've checked them out online, and they look like impressive eco-lodges or campsites.
How fun does that sound?
Whilst looking amazing fun, they come with a vast increase in expense.
Including the safaris, prices start at around 30,000 LKR (£130) a night. These prices increase rapidly, upwards of 80,000 LKR (£350) a night. If you want to check them out, two options are Yala Safari Camping and Leopard Trails Yala.
There are a couple of other campsites, but I don't know enough about them. I also wouldn't like to comment on what safety measures they have in place.
I mean, if a leopard smells fresh meat, a leopard's gonna get fresh meat.
However, as mentioned, the surrounding small towns are cheaper and probably safer places to stay.
Here are my thoughts on the accommodation I stayed at in Tissamaharama.
Hotel Tissa
- What:Â Little chalets within a leafy rear garden.
- Where:Â Just north of the main roundabout, and a short walk from the central bus station. (map)
- Why: The accommodation comes as part of the Safari package.
- Why Not:Â You want to stay in Yala National Park itself.
Firstly, Hotel Tissa provides a duo package of accommodation and safari, which is a complete win. The company name is Yala Wild Safari. You haven't got to worry about getting picked up and dropped off. Likewise, you haven't got to worry about missing anything or having to sort two separate things within Yala and Tissamaharama.
Overall, the hosts were fantastic. They were warm and friendly and greeted us with a fresh and cooling drink. We were booked in quickly and everything couldn't have gone any smoother.
However, in 2018, the rooms were a bit rundown and nothing looked quite like the pictures had promised. In truth, the rooms, like Tissa were a bit of a lifeless, dull environment.
Nevertheless, we were only going to be sleeping here. I could have been sleeping on the street and not cared, it was all about the safari in Yala Nation Park. Here at Hotel Tissa, we were at least warm, dry and clean, and all at a very reasonable expense.
In August 2018, I paid a remarkable, 15,775LKR (£68) for two nights and a full day's safari. Whilst their website may suggest a price, there is some wiggle room if you book the safari through them.
Further Accommodation in Yala and Tissamaharama
As mentioned above, there are plenty of places to stay in Yala National Park, Tissamaharama and other surrounding towns.
Prices range dramatically depending on the location and the style.
Nevertheless, the cheapest always seems to be with HostelWorld, with dorm rooms at £5 to £8 a night. That even shocked me.
As always, below are links to my tried-and-tested trio of booking sites. Have a look and see which, if any, suits you.
Best Things to do in Yala National Park and Tissamaharama
Truthfully, you only visit Tissamaharama for one reason. To go on a safari in Yala National Park. Nevertheless, that's one massive event to have in your back pocket.
Alongside the safari, there are world-class beaches to relax at, including Kirinda Beach and Palatupana Beach.
However, there are better beaches within Yala National Park and other parts of Sri Lanka.
Yala National Park (The Safari)
The national park has a golden rule: you cannot enter during the hours of darkness. This negates the need for the Jeeps to use their lights within the National Park. Thus, the opening hours depend on when the rangers decide the light is sufficient for the vehicles to drive safely.
The National Park is a place of natural beauty, backing onto the Indian Ocean. There are hundreds of species of plants, trees and grasses and is a true pleasure to see.
Other than the Jeep tyre tracks, there's hardly any sign of human existence.
Yala is a fantastic park, and somewhere I highly recommend.
Guides (The Safari)
The main animal most visitors want to see is the leopard. Every guide knows this and will do their best to find them.
After all, they know where the leopards hang out and when they're likely to be there. The rangers recommend the best time to see the leopard is at first light when the park opens.
However, do not despair if you don't see them first thing.
We saw one after lunch relaxing in the trees. It is all about being lucky, in the right place, at the right time. Many people saw everything within the first hour, others nothing all day.
Your guide is key to how lucky you get, but they too are human and need luck.
All the guides talk to each other over the radio. Therefore, if the more popular animals are spotted, expect a race to the location. It can be horrifying at times. But if you don't feel safe with their driving ask them to slow down and they will.
What's On Offer (The Safari)
All the companies offer similar packages; with full-day tours including lunch.
With Yala Wild Safaris, lunch was a great surprise. I was expecting a bit of fruit, a sandwich and a packet of crisps. Oh no, we had a delicious hot meal with all the sides.
Most companies used the same lunch spot, and again, all provided a similar style of food.
The lunch spot is one of the few places in Yala National Park where you can get out of the vehicle. And it's next to one of the most pristine beaches I've ever seen. It was astonishing, completely natural and without a single scrap of rubbish. We paddled in the waves and relaxed before cracking on for the second half of the safari.
As mentioned, I went with Yala Wild Safari.
Firstly, the prices were extremely reasonable. Secondly, they claimed to have the best success rate for seeing leopards and elephants, although, I'm sure they all do.
I guess, one of them has to be telling the truth.
Finally, our guide published research on leopards which gave us high hopes of seeing one, and we did.
Summary (The Safari)
Overall, I loved the experience. I must have seen hundreds of wild animals, including the Sri Lankan elephants and a leopard.
The guide's knowledge was outstanding, as was their, at times, fierce driving. They put in so much effort to make sure we saw everything we wanted to.
Nevertheless, I did feel that Yala National Park was overcrowded with tourists and jeeps. You can guarantee that as soon as you stop to see an animal other trucks will come up behind you. If I was an animal, such as a leopard, I'd do a runner.
Ultimately, I can only compare this to a similar safari in Ranthambore National Park in India, where I went in search of the elusive Indian Tiger. This safari experience was far superior and I only realised how good it was after doing the safari in India.
Where to Eat When Backpacking Yala
Having explored Tissamaharama, I wasn't expecting much in the way of nice restaurants and bars. Sadly, I was right.
There were only two restaurants I would recommend. Unfortunately, since my visit in 2018, one of them has closed down. Thanks, Covid...
However, that still leaves me one place I'd recommend, and one I would recommend avoiding.
The Smoky Kitchen
- What:Â A beautiful traditional thatched roof restaurant with stunning decor. Veggie and vegan options.
- Where:Â In the northwest of Tissamaharama, on Main Street, about ten minutes walk from the roundabout. (map)
- How much: Dishes are extremely cheap. You can eat for under 2000LKR (£5.25) or go big for under 3000LKR (£7.90).
Entering the Smoky Kitchen felt like leaving bad restaurants and Tissamaharama behind. Instead, we entered a world where restaurants were great again.
The ambience and decor were authentic, traditional and welcoming. It was like stepping into a friend's house, only they were cooking for you.
On top of the style, ambience and beauty was an irresistible smell of authentic flavours and spices. I could almost taste the flavours before they hit my plate.
The menu was small, but that meant the chefs became experts at what they cooked. On the evening I went, there were only a couple of options, both buffets. Each buffet contained so many choices and extravagant flavours it was exquisite. It was like a delicious taste explosion with every bite.
The only thing that let the Smoky Kitchen down was that they tried to close around 9pm and didn't sell alcohol. However, that's typical in many parts of Sri Lanka.
As a result, The Smoky Kitchen is close to being the best restaurant we ate at in Sri Lanka.
The Royal - (Avoid)
- What: Asian restaurant serving local dishes.
- Where:Â On Aluthgoda Road just off the roundabout on the left. (map)
- How much: Prices range from 1500LKA (£4) to 3000LKA (£7.90) but they tried to charge more for everything...
I wouldn't normally waste time telling you to avoid a restaurant, bar or hotel. I'd normally ignore it, not giving it space or time on the blog. However, The Royal deserves a spot. Moreover, you guys deserve to know just how bad it is.
Firstly, the staff are beyond rude. As soon as we arrived they ignored us completely. When we finally got them to stop chatting and serve us, their attitude stank. I instantly knew why we were the only customers. They acted like we'd ruined their day by daring to come in for food and a drink.
The service was slow and terrible, so we quickly decided against food, downed our drinks and disappeared.
Secondly, there was no vibe, ambience or atmosphere whatsoever. Not to mention the decor was appalling.
Thirdly, the drink prices were extortionate and not what was stated on the menu. I wouldn't be surprised if they were going to take the extra money for themselves. We argued with them for about 5 minutes and walked out.
I've never felt so angry at a hotel, bar or restaurant in my life.
Where to Party in Yala and Tissamaharama
Due to the religion and beliefs of the Tissamaharama residents, alcohol is a little tricky to find in the town.
That's not a bad thing. After all, there is nothing worse than being on safari hungover. Plus, exploring different beliefs to your own is part of travelling.
Despite that being true, many of us still enjoy a good beer, and after a day of safaring, it was needed.
Luckily, I managed to locate one place that served beer and local home brews, and it was right next to our accommodation in Tissamaharama.
Here it is...
Hotel Tissa Restaurant and Bar
- What: Rather rough and ready local watering hole.
- Where: On Main Street next to Hotel Tissa, just northwest of the roundabout. (map)
Ok, so in truth, this has changed since my visit in 2018.
The bar used to be called Public Beer And Arrack Bar and was next door to Hotel Tissa.
It's quite possibly the worst bar I have ever seen, let alone been to. The bar was so bad that it was almost good, it became a joke between us. Today we still laugh and joke about it, which, in a way, makes it great. It gave us stories, laughter and memories, and that's why we travel.
Imagine an empty garage with a few plastic chairs and some tables thrown in and everything was painted green. The only toilet was a dirty urinal within the courtyard, which you passed as you walked in.
However, good news!
Since my visit, it's been taken over by Hotel Tissa. Whilst I know nothing about the makeover and style, all I can say is that from Google Maps, it does look better.
If you go or have been, please let me know what it's like in the comments below, and send pics to our Instagram. It would make me very happy.
Is Yala National Park and Tissamaharama Safe?
Yes, Yala National Park and Tissamaharama are safe to visit.
Nevertheless, if something doesn't feel right or safe in Tissamaharama, don't do it. There are small pockets of criminality, drug trafficking and gambling that take place in the city. Similarly, if you become involved in crime in the area, police in Tissamaharama are particularly blut and harsh with a mentality of 'shoot now and ask questions later'.
However, the likelihood of becoming a victim of any form of violence is low. The main crime you could, not likely, but could, fall for, is scams. There are still a few people (very few) who will try to scam you out of your hard-earned money.
Generally, these scams involve inflated prices for safari trips and or entrance fees to Yala Nationa Park.
Under any circumstances, do not arrive in Tissamaharama on a bus and book a safari tour with anyone who approaches you, no matter how friendly they are. They will ask for money upfront for park entrance fees and then will not take you into the park, only skirt around the outside.
Hence, booking with a reputable will save you money, time, stress and aggravation.
Due to Yala Nation Park's success, the number of scammers is reducing. Nowadays, the main issues are overcrowding and dangerous driving within the Park itself. Guides will take extra risks overtaking and going off-piste, especially when a leopard or rarer animal is located.
To avoid extra overcrowding, avoid Yala National Park at weekends or Sri Lanka's national holidays. You won't get the best out of it.
Finally, I have to mention natural disasters.
After all the 2004 Tsunami killed hundreds of people in and around Yala National Park, however, natural disasters are rare, and the thought of one like this shouldn't put you off visiting the area.
Overall, keep your wits about you and think - Is this too easy and too much of a good thing? If the answer is yes, question why. If you do this you should have a perfectly safe time in Yala and Tissamaharama.
Leave a Comment
Thank you for reading my travel blog to Yala and Tissamaharama.
Hopefully, you enjoy Yala National Park, the safari, and the wild side of Sri Lanka as much as I did.
Likewise, I hope this Yala travel guide has given you an insight into what to expect and what animals you might see.
A few days in Yala and Tissamaharama will blow your mind, especially if you see all the animals on your list.
Finally, please let me know what you think of my guide to Yala National Park and Tissamaharama.
Similarly, if you've been and anything has changed, I'd love to hear from you too. After all, I can't do this alone.
Any comments are welcome below.
Cheers.
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