Isle Of Wight, England - A Travel Guide
Last Updated: August 4, 2026
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ABOUT THE ISLE OF WIGHT | SHOULD I GO? | WHAT TO DO | WHERE TO STAY | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO PARTY
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This Island is More than All Wight
Less than a mile off the south coast of England, specifically the stunning county of Hampshire, you will find the Isle of Wight (IOW), separated by a small body of water called the Solent.
The Isle of Wight is the largest island in England, yet only the second most populated, which paves the way for rolling, lush green landscapes and even gains the title of being a UNESCO biosphere reserve. The island covers around 150 square miles, with 57 miles of coastline.
Whilst small in stature, the island is famed across the United Kingdom, in part thanks to its notable residents over the years, none more famous than Charles Dickens, and Queen Victoria herself. In modern days the island has become known for the Isle of Wight Festival, one of Britain’s largest music festivals, and for being a quiet summer retreat.
The island is also gaining reputation amongst astronomers within the UK for the clarity of its night skies - essentially areas in which minimal light pollution is present - paving the way for some incredible views of the galaxy above. There are several locations for this on the Island, and they can be found here.
To get to the island, you'll be travelling by boat at some point. The three major ports on the south coast to access the island are Southampton, Portsmouth and Lymington, via three companies: Red Funnel, Wightlink and Hovertravel.
Our Tour of the Island
Our most recent trip to the island was in October 2019, and as mentioned above there are a few companies that make the crossing to the island daily. Our trip was with Red Funnel, who had asked us to come over and experience the island.
Our Far Out tour with Red Funnel got started on a cold and wet morning in Southampton. The terminal is impossible to miss, perfectly located off the main road. As we arrived early, the helpful front of house staff managed to get us on the 10am crossing instead of the 11am crossing we were booked on - which was unfortunately cancelled - but all's well that ends well. This gave us an extra hour on the island to settle in and get our bearings, which is never a bad thing.
Despite the rough conditions and closing mist, the journey across the Solent was a smooth one. The boat was comfortable and easy to get around, but the highlight was definitely the selection of food onboard. It seemed almost overkill to have three cafes for an hour's crossing, yet they all seemed busy. Home to some epic fresh pastries and cakes, it was all too tempting.
We had spectacular accommodation at Toms Eco Lodge on Tapnell Farm on the west coast, we spent the next four days travelling the length and breadth of the island in search of adventures such as kayaking, clay pigeon shooting, taking some alpacas for a stroll, tucking into some good food, and soaking up the stunning coastal views. We also spent a nice afternoon with Charlie's Gran (and her dog Lucy) digesting both our trip's activities and the massive roast dinner, all over a good ol' cup of tea.
Our return ferry back to Southampton was again affected by the same issue as our outbound journey, and this time, unfortunately, there were no spaces on the earlier crossing, meaning we had to wait for the next crossing, an hour later than we had planned and two hours after we arrived.
This, however, was not our first time on the Isle of Wight.
Charlie's dad was born here, and has been coming here since he was a kid visiting family - meaning he is, by way of virtue, a descendant of the island.
Greg, on the other hand, has been once, but this was before phones existed (and dinosaurs still roamed the earth... - Charlie) and life was a little easier, meaning this was another fresh tour for him.
So Should I go there?
The Isle of Wight offers so much to so many, and we include ourselves in that.
This rural island offers peace and tranquillity, with the beauty of crashing seas, green fields and soaring cliffs to match. This rural location also lends itself to getting you back to nature: as mentioned, the island is becoming well known as a 'dark skies' location, there are several forest walks, beauty spots, and if you really want to get one with nature, head out into some of the best surf the UK has to offer.
Not only is the island lit by stars, but is overflowing with some truly great eateries. We have eaten at many locations around the island, as you will see later in the blog, and honestly didn't have a bad meal. Each plate was full of flavour, as if everywhere was competing to be the island's best. It is easy to see why the island is becoming a food capital in the region.
The one caveat to all this is the same that applies to all of England, the UK, Western Europe, and really anywhere in the Western world, and that is that you pay for the experience - particularly when compared with South America, Asia and the like. If you're looking to see the world on a tight budget, look elsewhere. But if you're here for a true English countryside retreat, there are few places that compare. There are plenty of activities if that takes your fancy, or you might be on the island to enjoy the simple things in life: countryside walks, the fresh air, relaxing and revitalising before heading back to the madness of normal life.
What to do when Backpacking The Isle of Wight
The Isle of Wight is really a seasonal place, with the most activities, adventure and beauty present in the summer months. If you come then, everything combines to make for one fantastic trip.
That said, even off-season there's so much to do on the island, you are sure to be entertained, especially over a long weekend. We'd both happily come back and make the most of the off-season prices.
Whatever the season, take the opportunity to explore its rugged natural beauty, but don’t forget to join in some of the activities across the island too. Below are a few of our favourite activities that we have experienced on the island.
Tapnell Farm was once the Isle of Wight's leading dairy producer, but is now one of the top bases on the island for activities and adventures - its where we stayed and has become almost a self-contained entertainment hub with so much to do right on-site, and your accommodation well catered for as well, with glamping, cabins, cottages and tents available.
Whilst the farm no longer produces milk there are still hundreds of cows residing on the farm. For the animal lovers out there, stepping out of your cabin and strolling up to visit the cows, sheep, and other farm animals - all of which you are able to interact with - as well as the more exotic creatures such as wallabies, alpaca and meerkats, is awesome. It's also home to one of the biggest, hairiest bulls we've ever seen.
It also caters for families with kids, with more to tire out the little ones in one location than you could ever imagine. There are pedal-karting tracks created from hay-bales, pillow trampolines and a petting corner, they are sure to be in for a treat.
And if the idea of kids nearby puts you off, rest assured the site is so large that if you want to avoid them, you can. We heard not so much as a distant scream our whole stay.
For the adults there's a stunning cafe, a wonderful onsite restaurant aptly named The Cow (full review below), and Charlie's favourite:
Clay Pigeon Shooting with Top Targets
Charlie here to talk through this one! In the UK, shooting is very much considered an upper-class activity, done by wealthy gentlemen in tweed jackets collecting game for the winter. And clay pigeon shooting is how they practice – firing at clay discs launched into the air and (hopefully) blowing them into dust.
Now, some of you may know I have a bit of a rep as the ‘posh boy’ of Far Out – I’m not sure how, I haven’t had a particularly fancy or wealthy upbringing, and, based on Bristol being home, my accent should sound either farmer or pirate, yet it doesn’t. Go figure. But I’ve learned to embrace it, and so when I found out we were going off shooting, I was pretty excited! Finally, an activity to match my faux-toff persona!
Neither of us have ever shot a live firearm before, and with any use of guns being illegal in the UK unless you are a firearms certificate holder (or under the supervision of one), this was a good chance for us to see what’s what. So I dug out my best Barbour jacket, practiced my best ‘Gap Yah’ voice, and set off with Greg in tow to go and be amongst my kind.
Top Targets is a separate company running on-site at Tapnell Farm – our accommodation – and so it was a short trip over to meet our instructor, a relaxed gentleman who gave us a quick, but thorough safety briefing (plus eye and ear protection), and within minutes had us on range with gun in hand.
Our session was made up of 30 shots each, aiming at 4 different types of targets. We were shown how the gun worked, how to aim, gun safety and how to shoot. We did a ‘dry run’, aiming at the clay but not shooting to get a feel for how the clay moves through the air, before finally taking it in turns to make 8 shots.
The shots weren’t particularly loud, nor the gun that difficult to use. In about an hour we’d made all our shots. We totted up the scores and Greg had hit 50%, and I, with my posh boy superpowers, hit 80%. Turns out both of us were dead pleased with this, as neither of us had actually expected to hit anything!
Once the smugness had died down (“Congratulations mate, you were perfectly average!”), we said goodbye to our instructor, leaving us with a mix of relief (we’d both survived), elation (we’d hit a target) and, for me, a sense of belonging (I’d found a posh sport I was good at).
Our ‘bronze shotgun’ package with 30 shots each would set you back £40 per person, and you can do more if you like! It includes everything you need to pitch up and shoot, with no hidden extras, and was one of my favourite experiences on the island. Now if you’ll excuse me, I have to go and arrange my firearms licence and purchase some land…
Kayaking with Adventure Activities
Amongst the surprising number of adventure sports and activities on the island, a large number can be found at Adventure Activities in the town of Freshwater on the west coast (about three minutes from Tapnell Farm). Adventure Activities put on a diverse range of activities, including archery, axe-throwing, kayaking, coasteering, paddle boarding and bushcraft. You can partake in so many adventures you could spend a week with these guys and never need to do the same activity twice.
We took part in the kayaking, and having kitted up with the included gear and done the 10-minute dance to get the wetsuits on, we made our way out to sea, just waiting for one of us to die.
Our amazing instructor Owen had the patience of a saint, and clearly more confidence in us than we had in ourselves as he sent us flying down a ramp into the surf.
In minutes we were surfing and riding waves, and the waves were amazing. We'd picked the right day for it; the surf was powerful enough to take us all the way back to shore. Greg caught his first wave and went soaring all the way onto the shingle. Charlie, inspired by this, went for it and predictably went flying straight out of the kayak as he surfed one of the larger waves into shore, nearly causing an accident as Greg almost fell in himself from laughter.
A spot of advice here - do not do this hungover. Charlie was feeling the effects of the Corona and rum shots from the night before, and bouncing around on the water and tight wetsuits were a rough combo to stomach. Thankfully, Owen had the perfect cure. He took us around Freshwater Bay to a secluded beach, which was home to several caves, one of which he christened the 'Hot Tub'. This was a cave with an inlet some 20 metres away which catches the full force of the waves and sends it crashing towards you, throwing you around like a ragdoll. Hangover: gone.
We had a great time out with Owen and couldn’t recommend it enough. If the other activities are run with as much laughter, excitement and enthusiasm as Owen puts into your day out on the sea, they are going to be brilliant. Everything was perfectly planned and fantastically put together, and for £40 per person, it was well worth the money for a good few hour's entertainment. Greg would have paid that just to see Charlie fly out of a kayak a couple of times, and the rest of the day was an additional bonus!
West Wight Alpacas and Llamas
When we thought of doing a tour of the Isle of Wight, alpacas weren’t something we had thought of, or even knew were on the island! However, we were wrong. Greg had last seen Alpacas in Peru and instantly fell in love with them, so when we found out about West Wight Alpacas and Llamas on the Isle of Wight, we had to check it out!
The farm, only a few minutes from Tapnell Farm, showcases far more than alpacas; with llama, sheep, goats, birds, pigs and other farm animals roaming the fields. The highlight of the farm for us has to be taking the alpacas on a walk around the grounds, learning all about the varied animals on-site.
After having to steer our alpacas away from the pregnant females on more than one occasion, we found another of the farm’s highlights - the cutest little pygmy goats, which we cuddled in and they fell asleep in our arms. You can spend either 20 or 40 minutes walking the alpacas, and with prices coming in at £14 and £21 respective, we think that's great value, particularly with the knowledge of the guides.
We honestly had a great time and could see how people of all ages would have a fantastic day on the farm, learning about, feeding, walking and holding the animals. Once you have worn yourself out, we have to recommend a trip into the farm shop and café, with the llama and alpaca wool products on sale, and you’ll even get to meet the parrot, who merrily sings away to himself in the corner of the shop.
When it comes to the food aspect, we have to suggest the pizza - freshly cooked in the massive pizza oven, and they looked fantastic, and from watching everyone engulf them around the café they must have tasted as good as they looked. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time for the pizza, but settled with a slice of tasty cake and a hot drink, made by the local W.I. lady. Again, we highly recommend one of these slices of heaven. The whole café was a pleasant surprise, turning out some genuinely amazing quality food for not much money.
The Garlic Farm
The Garlic Farm is one of the most popular locations on the island, and it was recommended to us on more than one occasion as a must-do on the island. Complete with tasting areas, galleries, a small museum area and a restaurant, as well as hosting tours around the farm during certain times, it certainly makes the most of itself. Having only heard good things about the farm we were looking forward to our experience, and upon first impressions, it looked fantastic.
We first entered the ‘experience room’ where we were confronted with the amazing smell of, you guessed it, garlic. The room offered an enticing sensation to the tongue with an array of tasters, from the seriously hot chilli-and-garlic sauces to the less-burning, more mouth-tingling garlic mayo and garlic mint sauces, among many. Between the two of us, we gave a large number a taste and enjoyed each one. There is only one rule, and that was NO DOUBLE DIPPING.
After our tasters, we made our way through to the small museum room, explaining about the area and how the farm has developed. And this, sadly, is where our garlic love story ends.
The room felt impersonal and just described the history of pretty much anything remotely of note within a mile radius, rather than the farm itself. It really didn’t grab our attention and was in fact rather boring, aside from one interesting story about a shot-down plane that landed somewhere in the nearby area.
Things were looking up as we entered the very pretty shop, with lovely, rustic displays of all things garlic, and again with that unmistakable aroma of garlic filling the area. What wasn't so lovely was the prices, and the weird rebranding of some completely unrelated products with 'Garlic Farm' stickers. 'Garlic Farm' branded chocolate-covered coffee beans? I highly doubt that either cocoa or coffee is grown on-site, or even in this hemisphere. But there we are.
When it came to the restaurant that bordered the gift shop, the word we both set on was 'pretentious'. The saving grace was that the food was up there with some of the best we’ve had in a long time, but it just didn’t feel right. We'll cover the meal in-depth in the ‘where to eat' section.
As you can tell, we have mixed emotions about this place, we just can't bring ourselves to say it's a 'must-do' on your trip - it had too many hallmarks of being a tourist trap. But we are willing to say if you have a spare couple of hours, then it’s worth a visit.
The Needles
The Needles are one of the most photographed and iconic areas of the island, and consist of three large chalk cliffs that appear to stagger from the land, like the Loch Ness Monster’s tail protruding from the loch, with a final sting in the tail in the form of a red and white ringed lighthouse. Whilst you can take in the views over the shining cliffs from the coastal paths, there is another way. During certain months of the year, you can take pleasure cruises out around the Needles, enjoying the views with the wind in your hair from sea level.
If boat rides aren’t your thing maybe a chairlift from the clifftops to the beaches below, or maybe the small theme park (catering for kids) with all the classic rides, and the new Dinosaur jeep safari. Overall, it's a very picturesque area and somewhere worth visiting on a nice day, but not so much if the clouds are rolling in out of season. Adults will enjoy the walk around the cliff tops, whilst the young and the young-hearted will prefer the rides overlooking the chalk cliffs from above.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking The Isle Of Wight
Whilst the island's stature is small, there are many places to stay, as usual, with differing pricing budgets. The island has a number of campsites, B&Bs, hostels and hotels, as well as the occasional glamping sites. The prices range depending on what level of comfort you are expecting, but not so much when it comes to the location, as you could be anywhere on the island within an hour.
During our trip, we stayed at a fantastic glamping site called Toms Eco Lodge on Tapnell Farm, out to the west of the island near the little village of Freshwater. Tapnell Farm also doubles up as a great all-weather attraction for both adults and families. Kids would love the animals, including wallabies and meerkats, as well as the adventure zones. Adults will also find The Cow, (mentioned below) a great restaurant as well as activities of their own such as clay pigeon shooting via Top Targets* (mentioned above).
Toms Eco Lodge accommodation comes in a variety of styles, depending on budget and preference. The differing accommodation options range from domes to pods, 'modulogs', wooden cabins, safari tents and even cottages and the glorious Tapnell Manor.
Personally, we stayed in the epic modulog - modulog 1, to be more precise. The modulog is a semi-circular log pod, complete with bbq, deck chairs and a large hot tub. We ran to the door like excited kids - this place was awesome! A private log cabin set into the lush green hills, it was paradise.
Inside continued to impress with a stunning open-plan living, dining and kitchen area followed by two wonderful bedrooms (one double, and one with two singles). The shower room is host to a very powerful and hot shower - which is important for breaks in the countryside, and is separate to the toilet, making life easy for groups. The modulog came complete with every comfort, including a welcome hamper of milk, teabags, coffee, and local biscuits, to mention a couple of items, which for the weary traveller was much appreciated. If all that wasn't enough, the spacious deck and hot tub have views out over the countryside, with nothing but fields that run into the horizon and, in the evenings, frame the dipping sun.
All the lodgings are served by a stocked honesty shed, which is a small onsite store in which you pay what you think the item is worth (suggested prices are on the wall if you need a guide). We loved this quaint touch, and felt it added an extra something that we had never seen before, and it felt nice to have a system based on trust. It's stocked with games, cleaning and washing products, tea, sweets, sauces, pasta, fresh bread, eggs, and meats, with the majority coming from local bakeries, butchers and farms. There is also a large pizza oven on-site, free to use, with all the tools to assist you in your Italian masterclass.
In the height of summer, our cabin would cost you £991 for 4 nights for up to 4 adults, with additional costs should you have a party of 6. Booking in October (when we stayed) is a somewhat more palatable £500 for up to four people for the 4 nights stay. Safe to say, this is not for a budget traveller or backpacker. But if you're looking for somewhere for a guys or girls trip, or a family getaway, we can't think of anywhere in the UK better.
Alternatives include two Youth Hostels out west in Totland and Brighstone, although at the time of writing we can't see any availability or prices so you'd best contact them direct for availability. The ever-faithful Airbnb has single rooms available for around £25 a night across the island, and starting from around £50 for a private place (off-season). There's a few campsites and glamping sites around, particularly on the picturesque south coast, with camping pitches starting from around £10. Also, English law doesn't permit wild camping, but it's a rural island with plenty of open space - you can figure that one out if that's for you.
Where to Eat When Backpacking The Isle Of Wight
The island, as we imagined it would, has just about every type of food, restaurant, and pub imaginable, from fine dining to little beach facing cafes. Whatever your taste, however hungry you are, there will be something for you on the Isle of Wight. Below are a few of our thoughts and suggestions.
Our first recommendation is somewhere we have mentioned a lot during the blog, and that is Tapnell Farm - more specifically, their onsite restaurant The Cow. This large, barn-style building not only looks great, but once inside has the ambience to match. With friendly waiters and bar staff, and quirky decoration throwing back to the island's history, this slice of farm life was exactly what we were looking for.
Having gathered a few suggestions from the office staff, we both went with burgers, and it's fair to say they knew what they were talking about. The burgers were full of flavour and of a decent size, matched with a side of dirty fries and polished off with a delicious dessert. This has to be one of our top recommendations on the island for sheer taste. We will however say whilst your tastes will be tickled, your wallet will be lightened. The two of us had a burger each, a dessert (try the sticky toffee pudding), and washed it all down with a beer each and didn't receive much change from £60. So approach with caution. Or a trust fund.
Next, on our Isle of Wight food tour has to be the magic that is The Blacksmiths, just outside the central town of Newport. First things first - when it comes to The Blacksmiths, we recommend you book a table prior to arrival. Having driven past the pub on numerous occasions, rarely did we see free spaces in either of its car parks. Having not phoned ahead, we rocked up at 7pm expecting a table to find the only available space was at the top bar, and even this was busy. After a drink, we managed to squeeze onto a small table next to the bar, thank god.
The fact that there wasn't a spare seat in the pub should tell you that the quality of the food, menu and everything in between is top-notch. With a friendly and helpful team and a menu in which you could immerse yourself in for hours, The Blacksmiths are on to a winner. More importantly, the flavours and sensations that accompany every bite lived up to and exceeded our expectations. In total, a starter, main and drink each, and a shared side dish set us back £48.90, and let us tell you, it was worth every penny of that. Your stomach will thank you. A particular shout out goes to the Newchurch pie and the duck bao bun starter.
For the second time in the blog, the Garlic Farm near the town of Newchurch (of aforementioned pie fame), to the east of the island gets a mention. Whilst there is a lot wrong with the farm and the restaurant, we cannot help but recommend it for its food, and its food alone. Our big issue with this place is the pretentious vibes it gives off, bordering on arrogance. The restaurant is attached to the gift shop, yet the sign says 'Please wait to be seated' when the restaurant was half-empty, leaving you standing in the gift shop so they can pretend they have a Michelin star, only for a member of staff to say "Hi, sit where you like!". The food, whilst truly tastebud tickling, has an air of pretentiousness about it, served upon a slate in a self-important attempt to be the world's first 'gastro-farm', and it just rubbed us up the wrong way.
The interior is a nice place to be, if not spectacular, and reminded us of a Christmas log cabin that you would see in the films. The two of us had a drink, starter and a main, and from start to finish, we were in flavour heaven. There were so many mouthwatering dishes, all served with the perfect blend of garlic (even the beer), bar one dip that should have come with a biohazard sign and nearly blew our nuts off. We have to recommend the garlic bread starter and the whole roasted garlic bulb with warm ciabatta and farm salad. We were also blown away with the spectacular, generously-portioned highland salt beef with wedges. This was some of the best food we had tasted for a long time, and at a cost of just over £40 for the two of us.
Yes, this restaurant has flaws, as well as very, very attentive staff, but it really doesn't matter. When the food is that good, you could have kicked us in the leg and dragged us to the table and we would still have been happy.
For a true hidden gem, we bring you back to the town of Newport where you will find the Ambassador, which is a very confusing place. The drab concrete exterior gives way to a room that tries to be a restaurant, a bar, a living room, a snooker club, a sports bar and a family living quarters. However, this was a favourite haunt of Charlie's Grampy, and knowing about Greg's appetite and the scale of their roast dinners, plus it being a Sunday, we invited Charlie's gran along and gave it a go.
It is important at this stage to say, the two of us have appetites that wouldn't look out of place in a herd of hungry elephants, but when the roast dinners arrived at the table, even we were shocked. The plate which could have been mistaken for a reasonably-sized family hatchback was full. And we don't just mean full, we mean rammed. Like Hong-Kong level overpopulated.
We counted 7 different vegetables, plus potatoes served three ways, plus the meat and of course the Yorkshire pudding. This meal wouldn't have been allowed on an aircraft as it would be breaching the weight limit.
It's fair to say that the sheer size of the meal was it's most noticeable quality, but the taste and flavours were also solid. It's not fine dining, but it is a good, solid meal that you would be served at home by your mother, just on a grand scale.
The Ambassador has one more trick up its sleeve, and its a reason that makes it truly spectacular: the cost. The price of this enormous plate of goodness? Under £8.
We had change from £20 for two large roasts and a child's portion for Charlie's gran, who eats like a regular human. Nowhere else will you get this value for money.
If the above seems a little heavy and you aren't overly peckish, but have been out kayaking or out for a stroll around the cliff tops of Freshwater (which you should) and are looking to warm up, the small Julia's Tea Room can be located just up from the bay. This cafe is idyllically set with a retro interior littered with old cameras taking you back to when the time was easy, and the technology (and photos) less developed.
That, however, is sadly where the good feelings stop. On a cold and very wet day, we needed warming and went for the soup. Whilst it did the job, it could have been hotter, and there could have been more of it. It was lacking in any real depth of flavour or texture, but after stepping in from the cold and wet, it hit the spot. What we can say though is the drinks were great and the cakes looked phenomenal, so maybe stick to a warming cuppa and a cake, saving a meal for another time and place. Two soups and two hot drinks cost £13.65.
Where to Drink and Party when Backpacking The Isle Of Wight
If nightlife tops your list for holiday and travel destinations, then you may want to rethink your plans and look elsewhere.
The island is not known for its nightclubs or music, and we can vouch for that being for good reason, unless you've come over for the world-beating Isle of Wight Music Festival, who draw in the likes of Bastille, Lilly Allen, Keane, Biffy Clyro and George Ezra, just to name a few of 2019's line-up.
However, outside of one of Britains biggest and most loved music festivals, there really isn't much to shout about. We had a night out in Newport, the biggest town on the island, and we were not overly impressed. Firstly, taxis on the island seem to charge more than anywhere else we have ever been, including London. A 15-minute taxi cost us £20 at 9 pm on a Saturday night, with the return leg costing £34 at around 1 am. We couldn't believe it.
Newport nightlife seemed to revolve around three main places, Slug and Lettuce, the Hogshead a couple of doors down and then Fever, the island's illustrious club.
'Shocking on all levels' is about how we can describe the experience. The music was about 20 years out of date for most of the night, the bar staff slow, drinks not overly cheap (not London price, but expensive for where we were) and the weird mismatch of 'is this a bar, is it a pub, or is it a club?' just continued at every place we went. All very weird, dated and just not great.
That said, that's just our experience from one-night out on the island. What we prefered was some of the pubs we went to for food, where you have a good selection of beers, gins, rums and wines, and all in a well presented, calm location where you can enjoy a drink without being jostled by some underage drinkers getting wasted and singing unironically to Busted's 'Year 3000'.
What You'll Need to Blend In
To set your watch back to 1997.
A love of the island that runs so deep you don’t see a need to ever leave.
