Krakow, Poland - A Travel Guide
Last Updated: May 3, 2026
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ABOUT KRAKOW | SHOULD I GO? | WHAT TO DO | WHERE TO STAY | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO PARTY
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The Beauty of the Old, the Triumph of the New
Despite being Poland's cosmopolitan heart, Krakow is one of the oldest cities in Poland and is found on the Vistula River to the south of the country, around 2 hours from the Czech and Slovakian borders. A number of archaeological digs on Wawel Hill, where the Krakow castle now stands, has proven the existence of people living on the site as far back as the Stone Age. The city also served as the capital of Poland as far back as 1038.
The UNESCO-recognised Old Town in the centre of the city on the northern banks of the Vistula River is the hub of the city's culture and also boasts some truly breathtaking scenery, with the centrepiece being the Old Town Square. The magnificent Krakow Castle (Wawel Royal Castle) stands on the southern point of the old town, overlooking the city to the north and the river to the south.
Cracking times in Krakow
Having been a couple of times now to this wonderful city, I can hand-on-heart say it is one of my favourite destinations on the planet. Home to everything from cheap drinks to amazing foods, shopping, history, great nights out, Krakow has enough to keep even the most energetic traveller engaged.
Krakow has served me well over the years. I have gorged on the spectacular food, spent far too much on the vodka, and soaked in the Old Town’s charm and beauty. It's also been a great base to head out and explore the towns of Zakopane and Wadowice, as well as going underground within the Wieliczka Salt Mines just south of the city.
My second trip to Krakow centred around taking my then-86-year-old maverick great uncle, who was determined to make the most of every moment, to see the sights and the bars, resulting in us all singing away on the tables in a bar with a few other guys into the early hours.
This mad, beautiful city is intoxicating, and I really cannot wait to return and just bask in the epic surroundings, take in the Krakow culture, and listen to the bugle player from the towers of the Basilica.
So Should I Go There?
The fact that I've been to Krakow on more than one occasion and can't wait to go again should tell you all the answer you need.
From a practical point of view, firstly the airport is only a short distance from the city, and the transport links to the whole country are thorough, regular and cheap.
Secondly, the locals tend to be fantastic and will help you with anything you need, be it directions, help reading some of the menus, or information about certain ongoings, such as why the bugle player plays and what it means.
The history within the city floats between interesting and madness with the two often coinciding, most of which you can learn about on one of the free walking tours that take place daily. The history and the beauty are such that you could easily spend a couple of days in the city just wandering and gazing at the architecture, with the occasional break to sample the local delicacies and imbibe the moonshine, and before you know it you’ll realise that you’ve had the best few days, and you haven’t even scratched the surface of what the city has to offer.
What to do when Backpacking Krakow
I would suggest that you pre-book some of these and structure your trip, otherwise, it could be too tempting to wander the city and realise too late you've missed out on some of the good stuff. Now, to start on the intense end of the spectrum...
Auschwitz
First off, Auschwitz is around an hour and a half's drive west, and you will need to factor this in terms of arranging transport and so on. This can all be arranged from Krakow as a tour. A good option to mix this in with some exploration beat the crowds and not feel so rushed and regimented is to head over to Wadowice and spend the night there.
After Germany invaded Poland in September 1939, the former Polish army barracks was turned in to a Nazi prison and quickly evolved into the most feared names in the war. Out of the estimated 1.4 million prisoners, over 1.1 million were murdered in Auschwitz. It is also where the world-famous Anne Frank was sent prior to being moved to Bergen-Belsen concentration camp.
Today the Auschwitz and Auschwitz-Birkenau complexes are one of the most visited locations in Poland. They tell and share the stories of the prisoners as well as life inside and outside the camp during Nazi occupation. There are a number of humbling and upsetting artefacts and personal possessions, from glasses to suitcases, people’s ashes and pictures as you walk around the site.
Auschwitz-Birkenau is an eerie, quiet and desolate place. One thing that stood out for me was there are no birds or animals. It has a really sombre atmosphere. The site is famous among many things for its entrance and the train line under the central arch. but the first thing that hits you other than its sheer size is how different it is to Auschwitz 1. The conditions were much worse, more distressing and hard to take in as you simply couldn’t imagine how badly the people were treated. The gas chambers to the far side of the site are semi-demolished but still give you an insight into how they would have looked.
Whilst both Auschwitz and Auschwitz-Birkenau have some of the most devastating and disgusting histories, I feel that the stories they now tell and teach are some of the most important. It is impossible to understand fully or even imagine life during the period of Nazi occupation, but to see the reality and try to understand the best you can means the story will never be forgotten and hopefully, lessons will be learned, and the future will be a better, safer place.
Tours are run daily and can be booked before from a number of locations nearby or online. I do recommend you book in advance and online to secure your booking at a time and date you want. You can either join at the main Auschwitz entrance or can be picked up by a minibus from your location. Tickets start at around 60 zloty (~£12), but remember to factor in transport.
Wieliczka Salt Mine
Wieliczka Salt Mines are located a 30-minute drive south of the Old Town Square and is one of my top recommendations for your trip to Krakow.
This nearly 180-mile underground network of crystal-filled tunnels is absolutely stunning, and includes four chapels and an underground lake. The impressive sculptures and displays are spread throughout the mines, and cover everything from the technology used to sculpt the mine to the miners themselves.
The final chapel is the most impressive room within the labyrinth, with gorgeous chandeliers, wonderful salt sculptures and even a salt version of the famous Christian scene of The Last Supper. I really enjoyed the tour, and whilst the chapel is undoubtedly the highlight, I personally loved the lake which was all lit up and glowing.
The only part of the tour that was slightly disheartening (and disturbing) was the rickety old lift that takes you back to the light. Whilst they assure you it’s safe, every fibre of my body and every noise and jolt made me question this. When they said it would take us to the light, I wasn't sure if they meant ground level or heaven.
The mines were fantastic and were unlike anything else I had seen before. You can even get married within the chapel or attend one of the concerts hosted here, which I can imagine being a very impressive event. Tickets the mines cost 89 zloty (£18), which I say has to be worth it just for that life and death experience on the shaft. Again, it is best to book prior to the trip as you can include the transport connections to Krakow.
Old Town Square
The Old Town square plays home to some of the most impressive buildings within Krakow, with the sublime St. Mary's Basilica and The Cloth Hall being a few notable names.
The Old Town Square is the focal area within the city, and rightly so as it's probably the most beautiful. It is the centre of activity and has a buzz about it unlike any other spot in Krakow. The Cloth Hall dominates the square, sanding centrally and encompassing a large market area, including restaurants, a museum, shops, and a cocktail bar.
The seemingly unending spread of the world's largest brands is felt here, with the likes of Costa Coffee and Hard Rock Café competing for your visit. There are a number of restaurants, bars, shops and much more on the square to keep you entertained, or provide a space to sit down and watch the world go by with a cup of tea or a beer.
It is also the starting point for most of the free walking tours, which normally gather near St. Mary's Basilica. You won’t miss them with their umbrellas every morning.
There was usually some kind of market bustling away and street performers entertaining the crowds as well. That is if you could see them through the mass of birds that attend on a regular basis to bulk up on the scraps handed out to them.
The other main event in the square has to be the romantic horse and carriage rides that start and finish here, taking you around the city and showing you the sights in medieval luxury. I must admit I haven’t personally done this; it isn't that I don’t like horses, it's purely I didn’t have a partner to share the ride, and riding solo in a carriage for two felt a bit sad.
St. Mary's Basilica
As mentioned above St. Mary's Basilica stands in the northeast of the Old Town Square and is probably the most photographed building within the city. Built in the 14th century, this gothic-designed basilica is the highlight of the square, with two large towers peaking at 80 metres tall. You can enter the basilica from the side door, which incurs a charge, or view the church from a viewing platform via another entrance without being able to walk around within. If you are looking to save money I suggest this option, as it’s free.
The best thing I suggest is to pay to climb the larger of the two towers as you get some amazing views of the Old Town Square and beyond, and it really is worth the effort of the spiral staircase. This is also the location of the bugle player, who every hour plays out over the square. When you hear it, you will notice that the tune comes to an abrupt end. This isn’t a mistake, it is, in fact, a dedication to the bugle player that was shot through the throat in the 13th century whilst warning the town of an incoming attack.
Tickets to climb the tower cost 15 zloty (£3), which is next to nothing, and well worth the effort. Again you must book this, as there are only certain months, days and times you are allowed to climb. You can then enter via the small door to the front of the basilica next to the tower.
Wawel Royal Castle
The wonderful Wawel Royal Castle (Krakow Castle) lies on the north bank of the Vistula River and marks the southern point of the Old Town. The entrance to the grounds of the castle can be found on the east side of the building, it is free to enter and you are free to wander the grounds of the castle and enjoy the beautiful gardens and restaurants. It is, however, when you want to step inside the buildings you have to pay. Within the grounds of the castle there are cafes, restaurants, museums, old ruins, the peculiarly designed Wawel Cathedral, which served as the offices of the Nazi officers during the occupation of Poland, and much more.
During my tour of the castle, we visited the restaurant - a shock, I know -, the cathedral, and some of the rooms to the north of the walled castle, where they had the Leonardo da Vinci masterpiece 'Lady With an Ermine'.
The random designs of the castle are eye-catching, if not slightly confusing. It almost looks as though someone has just added different parts of different buildings together, and thought, "Sod it, that'll do.". Don’t get me wrong, it is cool to see, just very weird. It really is a nice place to be, with lovely grounds, and I have to recommend it as somewhere you should see.
Smok Wawelski
Smok Wawelski translates to English as Wawel Dragon and is a famous Poland legend. The story goes that a dragon lived in a cave under Wawel Hill and reigned terror over the local inhabitants, killing the people, destroying their lands and eating the cattle. Many fearless and brave warriors fought the dragon with no-one coming out alive, until a cobbler's apprentice called Skuba killed the dragon with a poisoned lamb, leaving him free to marry the king's daughter, and thus becoming the founder of Krakow.
Today, on the south side of the castle, the sculpture of the dragon stands to remind the locals of the story of Smok Wawelski and still breathes real fire over the passers-by, which is a nice touch.
Oskar Schindler's Factory
During World War 2 there weren’t many people out there who could or would become a household legendary name for doing good. Yes, people fought back against the Nazi party, and yes, people gave their lives for their country, their family and their freedom. But there weren’t many people who stood up to the Nazis on behalf of people of whom they never knew, a lot of whom were not from the same country, belief or background.
Oskar Schindler was one of these people, and despite being born German and a member of the Nazi party, he risked his own life to save 1,200 Jews. The factory in which he 'owned' and employed these people can be found to the south of the river, not too far from the Ghetto. The factory is now a museum dedicated to Oskar Schindler and those who he saved, as well as the period of Nazi occupation within Krakow and Poland as a whole.
This is a long walk from the main Old Town and costs 25 zloty (£5), which for a piece of history is good value. If I'm honest, it wasn’t the greatest tour but is something you have to see and do whilst in the city.
The Jewish Quarter and the Old Synagogue
The old Jewish Quarter is in the Kazimierz area of Krakow, south of the castle and north of the river. It incorporates some impressive graveyards, synagogues, and buildings, and is an area of the city I feel you just have to see. For me, the main highlight has to be the Old Synagogue, which has a number of artefacts and stories regarding Jewish life in Krakow over the years.
Tickets cost 11 zloty (~£2), which isn't bad at all. I do have to admit, it wasn’t really my thing and isn’t something I'd go back to again. However, if you are someone that finds religion interesting or are of the Jewish faith then I should imagine the Synagogue to be a very interesting place to look around. It is a lot smaller than it looks on the outside, so you will not need long to check it out.
The Ghetto
The Ghetto is an area to the south of the river and is where all the Jewish people were forced to live by the occupying Nazi forces during World War 2. It is the area where many were sent to the concentration camps around Europe or murdered on the spot. In the centre of the Ghetto is Heroes Square, which once was a thriving market area, but now home to 33 empty chairs as a monument to the Krakow Jews who lost their lives here and within the camps. During the peak period of Nazi rule over 20,000 Jews lived in the Ghetto at any one time, where previously only 3,000 people lived in the area, so you can imagine the cramped conditions.
To the southwest corner of the square, you will find the Eagle Pharmacy, where the one and only non-Jewish resident of the Ghetto lived. Tadeusz Pankiewicz provided care to the thousands of Jews from this pharmacy, and today his home and the pharmacy is a museum and is one of the strangest museums I have ever been to. It is a quirky place detailing life in the Ghetto during the occupied periods.
It really is somewhere you should see whilst in the city, and whilst you are free to walk through the ghetto and square, you will be charged 10 zloty (~£2) to enter the museum, which is great value for this small and wonderfully maintained treasure.
St. Florian's Gate
The Old Town of Krakow sits within the old city walls, accessed through a number of gated entrances. One of the most famous entrances is St. Florian’s Gate to the north, which leads you on to the busy hustle and bustle of Floriańska Street, which in turn leads down to the Basilica and the Old Town square.
The gate was built in the 14th century and, as well as an entry point, is a fortified tower along the northern wall, standing at 33 and a half meters tall. Today it looks very different from how it was originally designed, with the majority of the wall and gatehouse missing. The stone tower and beautifully crafted arched entrance look exquisite and we feel it is something you should see whilst in the old town; it is, after all, a major piece of Krakow's heritage and history.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking Krakow
Krakow is one of the most popular destinations in Europe and therefore has a thriving and busy network of hotels, hostels, and apartments. Wherever you want to stay within the city or its outer limits you will be well catered for. I have to advise that if you stay in the city you should stay within the Old Town: it is fairly central to everything, a short walk from the transport links out of the city, the most beautiful area, and is the focal point for the city's ambience.
I've stayed twice in the city, both times in an apartment, the first of which was booked through Airbnb and is only 1-2 minutes’ walk to the Basilica and the Old Town Square. It can take up to 6 guests and is called App3 New & Modern. However, I think its now called MK Apartments. Offering views out over the basilica's towers, you know you are truly in the centre of the old town. It is clean and tidy, well presented and was perfect for me. The only issue you may have is if the lift isn’t working the stairs to the apartment could be tricky to access if you have issues with mobility.
The second of the apartments, again with Airbnb, was just around the corner on Floriańska Street, between the Old Town square and St. Florian's Gate. The apartments were called Barbican House Apartments, which weirdly had its entrance via a restaurant. Again, the only issue I could possibly think of with the apartment was the stairs. Whilst for us it was no problem, I should imagine if you have difficulty with mobility then this may not be the right location for you. However again it was clean, tidy and, whilst smaller, it had everything we needed.
Both apartments were in prime locations and cost fewer than 197 Zloty (£40) a night, split between the 3 or 4 of us that stayed, and I think that’s great value, especially when you consider you are in the heart of the Old Town of one of the most interesting cities in the world.
If, good value is what you are after, there are some apartments and hostels in and around the old town which supply a dorm-style room and charge from around £6 a night, which is beyond brilliant. I would even take a bed bug or two at that price!
If luxury and comfort are what you are after you will be well looked after in the city, with all the big names such as the Radisson Blu and the Sheraton Grand to name a couple. Both are perfectly well located within the Old Town, but theing dizzy costs are beyond what I would spend or afford, coming in at over 2,500 zloty (~£525) per night.
Where to Eat When Backpacking Krakow
Those of you who have followed a few of our blogs around central and eastern Europe may know we are massive fans of the foods here, especially that sweet, sweet goulash. Krakow, nestled within the eastern extremities of central Europe, is perfectly located to deliver the goods and it doesn't disappoint, giving the perfect mix of central and eastern European dishes, both of which can be sampled all over the city.
I do suggest that you find the markets which are set up within Old Town Square, as it is here you can pick up some of the freshest, best tasting, and cheapest meals in the city. There is something about relaxing in a market throwing back great food... it's the vibe, the fresh air and the authenticity, and I reckon it is the best way to experience a country's local delicacies.
Krakow happens to also be the home of one of my favourite restaurants: Pijarska 17 Bistro & Restaurant. You can find this little gem in the Old Town on Pijarska Street, which runs along the northern wall just to the west of St. Florian's Gate. The restaurant had an almost underground feel to it with bricked archways throughout and, whilst simple, is a lovely place to be.
The menus came in both English and Polish, which was very useful as my Polish skills didn’t extend far, and I was grateful for this touch. The restaurant serves up a good selection of local foods, which is what I like to see, and the wine list is exceptional. The service was beyond brilliant and they couldn’t have been more attentive, friendly, funny and helpful. It really made the experience the best it could have been.
The best way I can show how good this restaurant was is by telling you I never like to eat in the same location within the same trip; that way I can experience a number of restaurants and potentially find an even better one. However, on my second trip to the city I ate here for 3 nights, and it would still be the first place I go back to on the next visit.
Normally we say for a taste of the best foods, go just off the main square and away from the tourists, as the food will inevitably be cheaper and better. However, in the spirit of breaking traditions, the next recommendation is on the main square which is called Pijarska 17. This small, well-designed restaurant has a factory feel to it, with a mix of brick, wood, and plaster which somehow works.
The restaurant serves up amazing local foods and at a great price. The service was fantastic, and everyone was really friendly and looked after us from start to finish. I had a beer, some dumplings in a soup and a main, followed by a homemade cake for dessert, all for under 35 zloty (~£7), which was amazing, and I enjoyed every bite.
Below our apartment (the Barbican House Apartments) was a restaurant called Gościniec Floriański, and seeing as it meant we didn’t have to go out into the cold and it was voted within the top 100 restaurants in Poland at the time, we thought we would give it a go. I had the ribs and goulash, and it was easy to see why the restaurant was voted so highly. The food was exceptional, the overall feel to the restaurant was brilliant and we really couldn’t have asked for anything more, except more of it! Both of us love a good size portion, and unfortunately, this was just not there with this restaurant. However, I do have to recommend the restaurant, thanks to the taste of the food and the diligence of the hardworking staff.
**Update from 2020, This restaurant is permanently closed**
Again breaking all of our rules in one swoop, I ate at a place on the main Old Town square called Grande Grill, and had a steak with fries. After all my preaching about eating local, I had had 4 days of pure Polish foods and just wanted a good steak.
The food again was incredible and I have to recommend it for those of you who love a stack of meat. What I really liked about this place was the setting; it was magical in there. I sat out in the courtyard and it was beautiful, almost like a scene from Avatar.
The final location worth mentioning in the city has to be Hawełka, again on the main square (Shame! Shame! Shame! -Charlie), and what it lacked atmosphere and beautiful surroundings, it more than made up for with pure quality. The Polish foods were fantastic, and all of us had the bread bowl with a fantastic flavoured soup, which was just what we needed. It was warming for the freezing conditions outside, filling and a fantastic taste of Poland. The service was good, but nothing special. I am recommending this purely on the taste and portion size.
Where to Drink and Party when Backpacking Krakow
Krakow is known for its flavoured vodkas and its nightlife. If is your thing, then good news! Krakow is for you. The Old Town has a vast number of bars and restaurants, some of which are more about grabbing a pint and watching the world go by, whilst others are cocktail bars where you can start the night off before heading into the clubs.
My first recommendation, once again on the Old Town square, has to be Budda, a couple of doors down from the Basilica. This small, dark and classic cocktail bar was one of the highlights, set with beautiful décor and home to a great atmosphere, your first impression of this place is going to be great. When you get to the bar, things start awesome; the bar staff really know their stuff when it comes to cocktails, and will guide you to what they think you’ll enjoy.
It's truly a lovely place to be, there were a great number of cocktails to choose from and the flavours were fantastic. They did also have the classic pint for those of you not overly keen on cocktails, but I really urge you to give them a try. The strawberry daiquiri is epic.
One of Poland's worst-kept secrets has to be their flavoured vodka, and the best place I found for this is the Wódka bar on Mikołajska Street. Everything about this bar is fantastic, from the team behind the small bar, the vodkas, and the atmosphere in the evening. The second visit here was also the scene of my drunk 86-year-old great uncle singing away, drunker than I had ever seen him after sampling the local produce.
My advice is to give as many flavours a try as you can; you can buy them in 6’s which seemed to be a good way of doing it. We picked our flavour, and they all came out on a long wooden tray and we relaxed back, giving them all a try. I couldn’t even recall how many we got through, but we did come to the unanimous decision that the cherry flavour was our favourite. Give it a go, you will not regret it.
Well, maybe the next morning you will, but that’s not our fault, right?
If wine and a relaxing atmosphere is more your thing, then shoutout to the unique Zakątek Cafe & Wine bar, located on the southeast corner of the square (sorry...). You have to walk through the shop fronts into an unexpected, almost secret courtyard, followed by a strikingly beautiful room. Whilst the room may be more at home in Buckingham Palace than hidden in an alley in Poland, it really was a great place for a lovely bottle of red. We didn’t eat here, but the food looked great and smelled even better.
The bar was a lot quieter than a number of the others around the square which was nice, and exactly what we wanted with a relaxing drink. The décor and character are worth coming for on their own, and that’s before you even get a sip of the ol' devil juice.
If clubbing into the early hours is what you are after then you will not be disappointed in Krakow, there are a number of clubs that will leave you pissed as a box of crazy frogs. That said, I will give you this warning about the clubs in Krakow: they all had an uneasy edge to them, and it was never 100% relaxing.
Also, the guys were very predatory towards the single women and were very persistent. Whilst I luckily didn’t see anything that overstepped the mark, it was uneasy and threw a very strange vibe. This wasn’t a one-off either, I checked out three clubs, and each one had that feel.
We may have just got them on a bad night, but the worst offending club in regards to over the top pervy guys, rubbish music, terrible DJ and general atmosphere was Louis Music Club & Pub.
That is all we are going to mention about this place. Avoid.
Both, the best of the bunch and one of the strangest clubs I have ever been to has to be Prozak 2.0 just south of the Old Town Square. It cost 20 Zloty (£4) to get in, and is worth the money just to see the crazy, manic, unusual and damn right weird underground labyrinth of caves. Each room was dark, dingy and brilliant. In all fairness yes, there was some of the sleaze from the guys, but much less than the other locations, making it a more relaxing club to be in.
Whilst the overall theme and music wasn’t really my thing, it was a great night. The maze of underground tunnels and rooms meant we easily all got split up and lost, somehow finding the exit at some point in the early hours. Madness is about the only word I can use to describe this place, but it's fantastic.
Finally, just to the west of the main Old Town square (...) you will find Shakers Club, which looks like a townhouse and in the day could be mistaken for one. By night though, this building becomes a crazy club with a number of different bars, dancefloors, and rooms over a couple of levels. Whilst the music was great and we had a fantastic time dancing our feet off, I did find it very expensive for Krakow.
The place was rocking and was very busy overall, and I couldn’t say there was anything wrong with the club at all, and actually had a cracking night. Everyone seemed friendly enough to us, but we have heard of some really bad stories about this club. Unless you are going with a Polish friend it could be a bit touch and go; we have heard of rough bouncers, rude staff and excessive prices (which we can believe). So yes, it’s a great night, but keep your wits about you.
What You'll Need to Blend In
A well-prepared set of
taste buds
A fondness for cheap alcohol
Warm weather gear for the winter months
