Lake Titicaca, Peru - A Travel Guide
Last Updated: November 4, 2025
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ABOUT LAKE TITICACA | SHOULD I GO? | WHAT TO DO | WHERE TO STAY | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO PARTY
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Forever Changing Lake Views
Lake Titicaca is located on the Peru Bolivia border and is the largest lake in South America. It is famed for its floating islands of Uros made of reeds, which are inhabited by the indigenous people. The island is an important part of the lives of all who live within its reach, providing essentials foods and activities. The town of Puno, on the Peruvian side of the lake, is the largest city within the basin of Titicaca.
Every town you visit within or surrounding the lake takes tradition very seriously. Every aspect of their lives is handed down from previous generations, from how to make the clothing to foods and sport. Each city, town or village has its take on the traditional clothing, whilst all similar at first glance, they are very different when you study them closer.
Whilst the lakes get thousands of tourists a year from around the globe, the furthest many of the inhabitants of the lake will ever go could be to Puno or another nearby town. If you tell the children which country you are from, they may have heard of it, but will not be able to gauge just how far away it actually is.
My Time on Titicaca
We arrived into Puno (the largest town on the lake) after a long, hungover bus drive from Cusco.
As we neared our hotel there was a large carnival in full swing through the city. We luckily made it through to our hotel, where the precession was, checked in and then all headed back out on to the streets to watch.
The show was fantastic, it went on and on for ages, everyone had put so much effort in. It was very impressive to watch.
That evening we purchased some fruit for a present for our hosts tomorrow at the homestay. It is tradition to give fruit as a thank you for allowing guests to stay with them.
Once we got that safely back to the hotel we headed out for the evening around Puno.
The following morning we were given a push-bike contraption with a driver and two seats on the front.
Having all paired up we got our drivers to race through the streets to the port, which was hairy at times but absolutely brilliant fun.
Once the team had arrived safely we took a little boat out to Taquile Island, in the middle of Lake Titicaca. We spent a few hours there taking in the stunning sights, basking in the beautiful weather and mixing with the locals. We learned about the island and the people, some who have never and will never set foot off the island. We found a wonderful restaurant will incredible views out over the lake, the owner was there too and was just an amazing guy, so kind and friendly.
The island was magical, but we had to move on to the next part of the lake and our homestay for the next 24 hours.
We crossed the lake and were met by the chief and 5 or 6 of the local women, all of whom were dressed in traditional clothing. We then got given a “mama” who would look after us for the day.
We had to earn our stay by peeling potatoes and taking part in household chores. We also had a few games of volleyball against the locals which was amazing, before settling in for a group meal with us all dressed head to toe in their clothing. It was so much fun and a night I will never forget.
The following morning we arrived on the floating islands of Uros, where we learned about how the islands were made, met the people and enjoyed using the traditional transport between the islands.
Sadly we had to go back to Puno that evening, where we had a massive party to say goodbye to our Peruvian guide as he would be leaving us in the morning with the Bolivian guide.
It’s safe to say we got the party going, but it was a shame none of us thought of the following day’s bus journey to La Paz.
So Should I Go There?
Whilst the answer is yes, it's important to remember that not everywhere within the vicinity of the lake is beautiful and inspiring.
The real reason you will come here is to see the floating Islands of Uros. The idea of spending a week on a floating island on a lake sounds very unique and kind of cool, and it is! But a lifetime, that’s a different matter, and it's a very unusual way of living.
The people make the most out of what they have, and the islands are stunning, even if there is a lot of maintenance to keep them afloat. The structures and boats moored to the islands are just as impressive. The people are so friendly and we think you just have to come and see this small group of islands, its people and everything they have to offer.
The island of Taquile is also stunning in every way, the scenery, the food, the people, the views, the culture... it has it all and is somewhere we would love to return one day, maybe even spend a couple of nights on the small island. It really is a peaceful, relaxing haven.
A number of the small traditional villages on the lake banks are out of this world, and the community life and spirit is something we can all learn from the villagers. They have a fantastic attitude to life and hard work, as well as to each other, particularly in what are not always easy circumstances. The villages are often made from the mud and clay and are incredible to see and spend time in. If you get the chance, try and stay overnight.
So yes, the lake is beautiful, as are the colours of the water, the backdrop, and the cultures that come with the people, but Puno is a different story.
It looks terrible and to the untrained eye almost unfinished, a little bit like La Paz in Bolivia. There are regular festivals and carnivals within the town which you will hopefully be lucky enough to stumble upon, but it doesn’t make up for the feel of the place. The atmosphere outside of these carnivals is lacking and there isn’t a lot that would keep you here.
The other disappointing place on the banks of Titicaca is the border town of Desaguadero. Not only is it a dirty, dusty old town split by a small offshoot of the lake, but it is also a shambles of
What to do when Backpacking Lake Titicaca
Lake Titicaca has some wonderful sights and places to visit but in terms of things to do; we have covered them all above. It is more about meeting the locals, learning the traditions and seeing the islands by using local transport.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking Lake Titicaca
During our 3 nights in Puno and the lake, the first and last were spent in Puno itself. We stayed in a lovely place called Camino Real Turistico.
We felt that this hotel was well located within the town of Puno, only a short walk to one of the main plazas (Pino Park) and the bars, restaurants, and shops.
The facilities were faultless, they provided breakfast in the small café downstairs near the reception desk, the rooms were great, the beds were exquisite and the bathrooms had everything we needed, including a decent shower. If we were in the area, we would go back to this hotel very happily, its only issue was thin walls, you can hear next door and the street, but other than that, it’s great.
Overall, we were very impressed by Camino Real Turistico and would recommend it to you all. Prices start from around 105 SOL (£24), and that will get you great Wi-Fi too.
Yet, we would love to stay on Taquile Island and maybe explore a couple of others, maybe even a night on the floating islands. There are a number of options around the lake, so whilst Puno is the largest place within the lakes, and somewhere you will probably stay for a night, don’t forget the other villages and islands; they would be more than happy to put you up.
The homestays in some of these villages were fantastic, spending time with locals in their own homes, learning their way of life is something else we would go back and do. Yes, you have to do a few chores and come with a small gift but that actually really adds to the experience. Give it a go, it’s fantastic.
If you do decide this is the route for you, it may be worth learning the basics of their language called Quechua as they do not speak any English and very little Spanish.
Where to Eat When Backpacking Lake Tititcaca
We are going to start out of Puno here and say on Taquile Island there is a restaurant called
We are going to start on Taquile Island where we came across a charming little restaurant called Willy Restaurant. The views out across the lake to the north of Taquile Island were exquisite, the sun was beating down and we were shaded by the canopy above. The soup for starters was delicious and that was followed by trout and chips for the main course. I am not normally a fan of trout but it was delightful. We really couldn’t have asked for a better location, food or staff. We met the owner and chatted with him, learning about his traditional clothing and what it stood for. The experience was unreal, and this little restaurant is a must, should you find yourself on or around Lake Titicaca.
Back in the main city of Puno, there are a couple of restaurants we tried out, and whilst none really matched the quality or location of the spectacular Willy Restaurant above or the home cooking from the hosts at our homestay, they were good. Tulipans Restaurant, located between Pino Park and the Plaza de Arms, was a pleasant place to eat, with a delightful courtyard and great food. There is a good mix of local foods, including a lot of meat dishes as well as pizza and European type foods. They also have a lovely selection of cakes should you wish to relax with a cup of tea or coffee. Overall we found it to be a very nice relaxing location with a good ambience. The food was good, but we have had better elsewhere.
The second restaurant we are going to mention in Puno is Ekeko's Restaurant. Whilst being small it really can pack an atmosphere, there is a stage to one corner of the restaurant (which wasn’t being used during our meal) , however, we were told there are regular parties and gigs. Personally, we aren’t quite sure how as it really wasn’t a big enough stage, but hey, the staff were very proud of it. Once again, there is a good selection of food from around the world, and it is nice, but will never blow you away with taste. We all left pleased with our meal and felt full, which was good, so I would recommend giving this place a go.
Where to Drink and Party when Backpacking Lake Titicaca
In truth, we didn’t have a lot of time to party in Puno, or around the lake. A lot of the small villages and islands don’t really have commercial bars and a party scene, as you can imagine.
Having said that we did have our farewell to our local Peruvian guide and Peru itself here in Puno in a little bar called Positive. This most random of bars/clubs (which is a generous name) was just madness. In stature it had nothing, but what it did have was a heart, a feel, ambition and atmosphere, and in those categories, it had the world at its feet.
We all managed to squeeze in and the drinks were flowing, the staff were dancing, the locals and other travelling tourists (who could fit in) were also giving it everything they could. There was a great selection of alcohols at a very good price. I really can not recommend this crazy little bar enough. If your night is half as good as ours you will be in for a treat.
What You'll Need to Blend In
Carnival attitude
A boat
Traditional clothing
