Split and H'var, Croatia - A Travel Guide
Last Updated: July 14, 2025
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ABOUT SPLIT AND HVAR | SHOULD I GO? | WHAT TO DO | WHERE TO STAY | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO PARTY
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A Little Bit of Paradise
Split is on the south Croatian mainland, on a run of coastline called the Dalmatian Coast. It's a three-hour drive north of the world-famous Dubrovnik, although the drive does take you through the outer fringes of Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep a passport handy!
Today Spilt is known as the second city of Croatia and is by far the second-largest with around 210,000 inhabitants. Tourism is its main stock in trade, hardly surprising when you consider the sun-kissed beaches, wonderful bars & restaurants, museums, architecture... need I go on? It's a Mediterranian paradise.
Split has been passed between empires like a joint at a house party, from Napoleonic to Austrian-Hungarian, and again more recently during World War 2 and the Yugoslav wars, right until Croatia won its independence in 1991. These empires and wars have shaped Split into what it is today, with heavily fortified city walls, grand castles and palaces, and a number of impressively stoic outposts.
Just of the coast of Split, a scattering of islands litters the sapphire waters, each easily assessable via a boat from the town. By all accounts, each one sits in the water like a jewel, both literally and metaphorically. All are home to azure waters, golden sands and the beautiful architecture of the old towns, in the style that anyone who has watched Game of Thrones will recognise straight away. I can only really paint the picture for the island I visited though, and in this case, it’s Hvar.
Hvar has been home to some form of humanity or another for thousands of years, with evidence of prehistoric man making the island their home when it was still part of the mainland. Since then, the island has been cut off from the mainland due to a rise in sea levels and has become an important stop within the trading and shipping lines throughout the Adriatic and Mediterranean. Not bad for an island with only 115 square miles and just under 11,000 residents.
The island economy relies on its olive and lavender plantations, fishing and tourism, and tourism is booming. Silken beaches caress the island whilst the blue waters are brimming with eclectic, gorgeous sea life. Back on terra firma, the rolling countryside fills the air with wonderful smells and is pretty easy on the eye too. Hvar City is on the southwest of the island and is home to both the relaxed flashiness of the parties and nightlife and a wonderful old harbour nursing incredible castles, churches and homes.
Relaxing in the Adriatic
I spent 4 nights on the island of Hvar with some mates, and the plan was to have a relaxing few days soaking up the calm and peaceful atmosphere, and recovering from a hectic 4 days partying hard during the Croatia Rocks festival on the northern beaches of Novalja.
Having not researched the island at all, we arrived totally ready for the glorious sunshine - which is almost guaranteed during the summer months - and the golden beaches to relax and just do nothing.
We slowly drifted to a nice restaurant with views across the glistening seas and took our leisurely time meandering around extraordinary old buildings. It was about there that the relaxation ended, and our detoxing, relaxing island retreat turned into four mad days exploring the stunning harbour, mashing up a couple of bars into the early hours and enjoying one mega afternoon aboard one of the best party boats I've ever been on.
Don’t get me wrong, we had the beautiful golden beaches, the striking buildings and the achingly beautiful countryside to relax in as well, but this island shocked us with its extraordinary mix of crazy nightlife, buzzing atmosphere, and excitement, interspersed with the old, slower, more romantic way of life we dream of from time to time.
It really is paradise.
So Should I Go There?
Yes, a hundred times over.
To start with the island of Hvar, just yes. It is exquisitely gorgeous, with miles of cascading green hills, filled with rich violet lavender and surly olive trees, and the shimmering seas roll lazily up onto the golden sands. The towns are fantastically well presented and have the most incredible architecture on show.
If the sea is your thing but sand isn’t, then there are a number of brilliant pebble beaches for you to choose from dotted around the island as well. As alluded to above, the island has a little bit of perfection for everyone. It isn’t only somewhere to kick back and relax, yet if that's what you want, then you can spend days doing nothing but soaking in the sun in the most wonderful conditions. Likewise, if excitement, exploration and late nights is a little bit of you, then Hvar is waiting for you too.
Split, whilst it was pretty much just our gateway to Hvar, seemed very similar, just without the rolling green hills. It had the same sun-soaked sands, a wealth of architecture and a bubbling atmosphere, and we really need to go back to see the town properly, but it was awesome. I loved every second in both Spilt and Hvar and think you will too. So yes to Croatia, possibly the most beautiful country I have been to, and yes to Split and Hvar.
What to do when Backpacking Split and Hvar
Split and Hvar have some of the most luxurious, breathtakingly gorgeous views, beaches and old buildings anywhere in the world. They are places of peace, tranquillity and just somewhere to lay back and do nothing but soak up the sun’s rays. Having said that, once you’ve explored the old buildings, played in the sea, and taken in the views from lookout points, you will be left with time on your hands. There isn't masses to do, but like a good film, you'll be happy going over the same stuff again.
Hvar Cathedral
On the east side of the harbour, you will find the beautiful town square, and on the far east of that square, you will see one of the most striking buildings on the island, Hvar Cathedral. You cannot miss it: it dominates the skyline with its looming bell tower.
The building as a whole comes from multiple eras, with the oldest gothic parts of the church dating from the 14th century, and the bell tower is relatively spritely by comparison, hailing from the 17th century.
Entrance is free, although as always it is great to give a small donation if you can, and what greets you inside is a masterful sight. Beautiful old pews stream back from a fantastic altar, looked over by a stain-glass backdrop whilst sublime stone carvings line the walls.
A word of warning, we saw a few ladies turned away and from the body language it appeared they had to have their shoulders covered, so ladies, a shawl or something light might be a great idea. You will not want to wear anything to heavy as you’ll melt in the sun.
Franciscan Monastery
A short walk south along the beautiful coastline from Hvar harbour, you will find the Franciscan Monastery. The monastery is only small in comparison to most, but it still shines brightly out across the glistening sea.
From the outside, you can get an understanding of the age of the building and what life must have been like for the 15 or so monks who lived within the monastery. It really comes across as a calm and peaceful area where you could easily spend an hour or two sitting under the shade of the old cypress tree which dominates the yard.
Inside you will find stunning architecture and a few wonderful paintings, including a massive version of the Last Supper. The museum houses more paintings if art is your thing. For me it was more a case of taking in the sea breeze, relaxing away from the centre and just seeing the building. I highly recommend the short walk from the centre. If it makes it more inviting, entrance was free, so have a look around and relax on the small grounds.
Hedonist Hvar Sunset Boat Party
I thought we would be relaxing and taking it easy after four big nights of partying up north. How wrong I was.
I cannot remember how it happened, but I found myself walking down the jetty at Križna Luka Beach to jump aboard the party boat. So much for relaxing.
We set sail, and then promptly docked just around the corner at Hvar harbour. Where we had just walked from. I know; a great start. We picked up a boatload of people (literally) and got the party started as we set sail around the Paklinski Islands to the south.
The beer was flowing, the games were rocking and the
This is a must during your trip to Hvar. The team at the Hedonist Sunset Boat Party are amazing, and the unlimited beers and wines were included in the price(!) - although you pay extra for spirits. Tickets cost 300kn (~£35), which is so worth it, even if you have a couple of spirits during the trip. It’s a no-brainer for me. Get your party shoes on and drink drink drink.
A word of warning - this is seasonal, and as far as I'm aware the party only runs between May and August, and only on Wednesday and Saturdays. Whilst I couldn't say I actually remember booking it, we must have booked in around the harbour, and it appears some people have had issues with online bookings and no-shows. This could be a case of booking once you're in the area from a legit shop in Hvar.
Ilario's Hvar Tours - Blue Cave Tour
It isn’t often we talk about things we haven’t done, but this is one of them. We were only made aware of the tour having left Hvar, which is disappointing. It really is something I would have loved to have done, so it is only right of me to mention it to you, as it seems fantastic. Plus it means one of us will have to return, which isn’t a hardship.
Located on a small island called Biševo on the western extremities of Croatia is the beautiful Blue Caves. A speed boat picks you up from the harbours in both Split and Hvar and fires out across the Adriatic until it reaches to beautiful waters of Biševo. You can then visit the caves with their amazing blue and green waters, as well as stopping off on stunning beaches on Paklinski Islands.
When it comes to the price, it’s not cheap; with starting prices exclusive of food starting at 680kn (£80). This may be a bit high for most of us, however, I am told it is worth it. Personally, I don’t think we would pay that on top of food and cave entrance. Shop around as there are some cheaper options, but be aware of what is and isn't included in the price prior to booking.
Hvar Fortress
I will start by saying it really is worth the short walk and the 25kn (~£3) entrance price. This wonderful fortress overlooks the city and on out over the blue seas for miles upon miles. It really is all about the views here - the fortress is beautiful and the old walls are great to walk through, but that view outdoes it all.
Your first stop after taking in the view is most likely going to be the café, as you’ll want a quick drink after the
As for what to do in Split, I really haven’t spent much time there and it was literally a quick stroll around the Palace, Cathedral and temples just to the north of the port with our bags after lunch. What we did see made us want to stay longer, but again, it means we will be back. I loved it.
The Old Town of Split starts at the main Ferry Terminal and makes it’s way north and west with, in my opinion, the highlight being the narrow streets in which the Palace stretches over. It feels like something out of Game of Thrones, just with fancy shops and boutique little cafés. It really is beautiful, and you can’t help but smile.
Where to Stay Whilst Backpacking Split and Hvar
I only stayed in Hvar, using Split only as a go-between for onwards travel. Having just a few hours to see the town, I'm unable to identify any good places to stay, unfortunately.
Whilst on the island of Hvar, I stayed in the city of Hvar. We hired an apartment with a few mates from the trusty people at Booking.com. The apartments were called Apartments Nikola Stipisic and are on the hill to the east of the city, and only a short 10-minute walk to the harbour, restaurants and seafront - perfect.
The apartment, whilst basic, but was perfectly good for us. Clean, tidy and was well located within the town - what more can you want? We didn’t spend too much time there, so the fact it was a little small and needed a little sprucing up didn’t really matter to us.
We had a lovely little balcony that ran between the bedrooms with a set of tables and chairs. Perfect for relaxing with a glass of wine and watching the sun go down after a long day walking around the island.
There are much nicer apartments within the city and of course the island via a number of different booking platforms, such as our favourites Airbnb and of course Booking.com. It really depends on how much you want to spend; some of the apartments we looked at were glorious, but that comes with added costs.
I know some of you aren’t fans of apartments and would prefer to stay in hotels. In Hvar, the main hotel has to be the Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel on the harbour front. With a lovely indoor pool, spa, restaurants, luxury rooms and much more, why wouldn’t you if you can afford it? Rooms start at 860kn (~£100) a night and I would expect some of the rooms to easily break through the £400 a night barrier.
Where to Eat When Backpacking Split and Hvar
It is most unlike us here at Far Out to not mention food in a good way. You guys who read regularly we are massive foodies, and could eat our way around the world. However, here in Split and Hvar, whilst I enjoyed the food I don’t believe it is something that deserves much praise. There isn’t one meal that sticks in the mind as being unforgettable. Whilst we are sure there are some fantastic restaurants in the area, we must have missed them.
In Split, the only restaurant we ate at was a vibrant little place on the harbour called Terminal F. Whilst the restaurant had a good feel, the staff were perfect hosts and the food flavoursome and well presented, it was lacking that cutting edge. The foods were nothing too elaborate, with tacos, pizza and burgers making up the bulk of the menu. Whilst this was perfect for those of us suffering from hangovers and in need of comfort foods, it isn’t what I would have wanted to see. I love local foods.
Overall though, there is no real fault with the restaurant. As mentioned, the food was great, the portion size was good and the staff were fantastic.
Over in Hvar, and the story is much of the same, to be honest. Not one restaurant stood out from the crowds and whilst all passable, I don’t really feel in the position to overly recommend one above another.
The first place to give a mention was the Kod Kapetana on the harbour front, and it really is about the views here. With stunning views across the harbour, up to the brow of the hills that encase the wonderful port, and out to Gališnik Island and beyond. The perfect spot for a moonlit evening meal.
The menu was actually really nice, with a number of seafood dishes alongside the usual steak and vegetables. The staff again were really attentive and the food was great, and whilst I have had better, there was nothing wrong with the meal itself. Overall, I think it was the ambience and the look of the restaurant that let it down - it isn’t great. Having said that, it was one of the better places in Hvar for service and taste, but you do also pay for the privilege, and it's not a cheap one.
Since leaving the island I have been told about one restaurant that you must visit, and hearing about it, I'm gutted we didn’t go there. Dalmatino is perfectly located on the northern edge of the harbour, with sublime views across the incoming tide and on to the tremendous islands on the horizon.
Whilst we have been told how good the food and the staff are, I can only give you an update on what we know of the restaurant. Having walked past it on a number of occasions I can confirm it was always busy, so you’ll need to book. The ambience seemed fantastic and it was always buzzing with excitement.
So to answer the obvious, the only reason we didn’t eat here is that it looked expensive, and at the time our group didn’t have much money left. We have since been told that the price is very reasonable, which means it’s a no-brainer. It was by far the most lively restaurant in town.
However, not all is lost. If you are on the move and just looking for something light, the city has many delightful and delicious patisseries serving some of the softest, best, mouthwatering cakes and pastries.
My favourite was a wonderful little place called Nonica, down on the harbour front. The second you walk in you can smell the flavours, they are irresistible. The sheer selection on offer is beyond mind-boggling, which makes it hard to choose just one. Well, that was the excuse I gave anyway.
Where to Drink and Party when Backpacking Split and Hvar
Now I didn’t expect to find a party scene or boat parties in Hvar, but we did. And we had a really good time. It wasn’t wild or over the top, it was tasteful, fun and not overly expensive. It isn’t the sort of place you would have a stag or hen do, and it isn’t the sort of place you see people getting thrown out of bars for fighting and or being too drunk - it has that happy medium where you can enjoy a drink or get drunk but never feel like you’re out of control or unsafe.
Having already mentioned the boat party in the things to do section, I won’t cover it too much here other than to say book it, it really is fantastic and great value for money. Not only do you get unlimited drinks, but you’ll explore the coastline from the sea too. The crew are all brilliant, there was no downside at all, and there's not much in life you can say that about.
Back on land, we have to give a shout out to a couple of bars, the first being Carpe Diem at the southeast point of the harbour. The bar looks luxurious and expensive, but is very well priced and has a truly great atmosphere. Both the interior and exterior are designed to perfection, and the mood lighting and music work well together and make for a great place to dance, drink or just enjoy a relaxing beer. The bar is brilliantly well stocked and the bar staff are complete legends. It really is a great place for a drink or two.
Whilst you could start and end the night easily in Carpe Diem, there’s more than one bar/club that fights for the title of top venue for seeing in the early hours. The next club is the Jazz Bar, and this place is madness in every direction. The DJ's live music thuds in your chest and crazy cocktails are served in some of the most imaginative glasses I have drunk out of. The value is great too, with beers starting around 25kn (~£3) with cocktails a little more at 50kn (~£6) upwards. We did not have a bad night here, dancing our feet off, drinking some of the most random concoctions and laughing all night.
However, the Jazz Bar is not the only great place to see in the early hours, I also loved Ka'lavanda Music Bar, only just down the road from the Cathedral on the town square. Be warned this small narrow bar can get busy, and most nights we piled out on to the narrow cobbled courtyard in a melee of dancing, drinking, fun and laughter.
During the day you would never have guessed this bar would turn into such a party scene as it is quiet and unassuming, yet still beautiful.
Last but by no means least we have to give a mention to Central Park Club, right in the thick of the harbour. Like a lot of places here this bar opens until 2 AM and can get very wild, very quickly. People tend to come here a little later in night, merging from the other bars and clubs around midnight.
The atmosphere is always buzzing, and there is a real vibe about the place, with great lighting, good music and room to either sit and relax with a beer and take in the views or dance the night away. We found the prices to be a little higher here than in the other bars at 35kn for a beer (~£4), which isn't too bad considering where we were and the fun we were having.
My final shout in Hvar is the Pub Crawl, which starts the night off with a wicked all-you-can-drink booze cruise before getting back to land and stopping in a few of the clubs and bars (if you can make it that far). We never took this crawl as we wanted to do our own thing, however, it has a good rep and comes with a lot of pros, such as free entry into some of the clubs, which can be costly, and a free shot in each bar. Prices start at 150kn (~£18).
What You'll Need to Blend In
Swiming trunks
Sun cream
A bit of extra cash for good foods. You'll need it
